Excavation work on Spike Island off the coast of Cobh in County Cork, Ireland has uncovered a previously unknown stone spiral staircase believed to date back to the 1790s.

The former monastic settlement dates back to the 17th-century and has had a fascinating and rich history. The low-lying island became an important part of the port’s defences, and saw various military fortifications being put in place in the 18 th and 19 th centuries. The island went on to be used as a prison during the potato famine and throughout the Irish War of Independence in the early 1900s, being dubbed “Ireland’s Alcatraz”.

While a tunnel which leads from the inner fortress to the outer moat was previously known to the island’s heritage team, the stone staircase was an unexpected find believed to be part of the original 10-acre British fortress that was built on Spike Island.

The fortress’ tunnel and staircase originally lead to the top of the walls but became redundant after the structure was expanded. At 24 acres, it is still considered one of the largest military structures in the world. The team also discovered large animal bones and some half-filled wine bottles which are being dated. Having conducted many digs on Spike Island over a seven-year period, UCC archaeologist Barra O'Donnabhain was amazed by what was uncovered. “We have reviewed the original fort plans many times as part of research and it is incredible that this amazing find was unknown to us just waiting to be discovered. The 1804 plans and later drawings make no reference to the staircase, so it truly was a most pleasant shock to see this door leading off the chamber and beautiful stonework".

The unexpected find was made by the island’s maintenance and heritage teams while uncovering new areas as Cork County Council look to continue adding to the site. The island was hoping to grow its visitor numbers in 2020 after great interest since opening to the public in 2016.

“This stunning find reveals many interesting facts. Firstly the beautiful high quality craftsmanship and work that was undertaken, which showcases the highly skilled stone cutters that were working on the defences of Cork harbour in the late 1700's. The staircase also confirms that the first 1790 fort on Spike Island was swallowed up by the much larger 1804 fort, built to defend from the threat of invasion from Napoleon. The bottles of wine found at the bottom of the staircase suggest soldiers were disappearing for a sneaky drink during working hours into this out of the way tunnel, and were likely disturbed given that they left a large portion of the wine unconsumed!” John Crotty, Manager at Spike Island told Lonely Planet. More information on Spike Island is available at the official website.

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Excavations on 'Ireland’s Alcatraz' revealed a hidden staircase 

Lonely Planet writer Joe Davis has visited West Cork in Ireland at least once a year since he was born, and he has compiled the ultimate road trip itinerary to help you sample the best of West Cork in just four days.

I didn’t get to drive this route myself until I was 21, but over the last eight years I’ve made up for it, tracing almost all of the 1000km of craggy coastline County Cork has to offer. I’ll let you in on a secret: follow the coast and you can’t really go wrong.

I usually fly into Cork Airport and hire a car, which is essential as there’s little to no public transport in rural Ireland. Most places featured on this itinerary are on or near the Wild Atlantic Way coastal route which at 2500km is, impressively, the longest uninterrupted coastal route in the world. If you’re short for time, don’t let that put you off; instead, consider skipping a peninsula or two. If you have more time I’d recommend following the route northwards towards Donegal.

One of the best things about driving in rural Ireland is that you rarely have to worry about parking. The majority of towns allow free street parking in the centre, so you can pull up, hop out and explore with minimal fuss.

Day 1: Cork City to Clonakilty

Driving time: 60 mins

Arrive in Cork City and, in the evening, head straight out to a traditional Irish music session at authentic Sin É. On my most recent visit, I was pleasantly surprised to see a surge in independent businesses since I was last here around five years ago, such as popular coffee shop Cork Coffee Roasters and craft beer stop Franciscan Well Brewery.

Due to the airport’s proximity to the city, Cork is an easy starting point but, if you’re short for time, skip it. Where this road trip excels is with its rural landscapes, coastline and towns. Just a short drive away there’s so much more to see, so hit the country roads.

Award-winning Clonakilty is Irish charm at its best. Sitting somewhere between run-down rustic and the cusp of cool, the welcoming high street is often adorned with bunting and hanging baskets. Try to time your stay in Clonakilty over a weekend or a Monday for the best chance of catching a traditional music session.

De Barra's Folk Club is a must-visit music destination. Squeeze past the queue at the bar and make your way to the back, where it opens out into an indoor greenhouse with a stage. A mass of music memorabilia covering the walls includes the faces of Bowie and Dylan, who’ve played here in the past. Attend the Monday night ‘trad session’ and you’ll see why it’s my favourite night; the event has been running for 30 years and is led by a bearded local with a dog on his lap. Get there early to grab a seat.

I always make time for the short drive out to Inchydoney Beach, which passes vast tidal flats that are home to a multitude of seabirds. The seemingly endless beach spans either side of a small peninsula when the tide is out. For panoramic views I drive to Dunmore House Hotel, which overlooks the waves.

Stay: Macliam Lodge Guesthouse
Don’t miss: Inchydoney Beach
Eat: Seafood at An Súgán

Day 2: Clonakilty to Bantry

Driving time: 90 mins

From Clonakilty, drive west on the N71 towards Warren Strand. It’s worth stopping here for the short cliff walk – if you're lucky you might spot a puffin or even a breaching whale.

Next lies atmospheric Drombeg Stone Circle, hidden in a sunken field. Minutes away is the picturesque village of Glandore which overlooks a spectacular inlet dotted with yachts zig-zagging around fluorescent buoys. I try to get an outside table at Hayes Bar or The Glandore Inn (the only two choices) and always order the open salmon sandwich. The salmon is caught fresh from Union Hall, the next village along.

The next stop is Lough Hyne, a rare inland saltwater lake and an oasis for marine life.

Make sure you don't miss the turning – it's signposted but sharp. I come here to swim; if I’m feeling brave I jump straight in and the cold soon passes. I warm up with a 2km hike with aerial views of the lake.

If you have time, make a detour to the small fishing village of Baltimore. There’s nowhere better to sit with a Guinness and watch the boats go by. From here you can get a boat out to one of the surrounding islands or head out on a whale watching tour.

Next, follow the coastal route to Bantry. I love Bantry for its quaint pubs and restaurants that serve fresh seafood and it’s the perfect base for exploring the surrounding peninsulas. Ma Murphy’s is a strange hybrid between an old grocery store and a pub with a huge garden, and The Fish Kitchen serves a warming seafood chowder, perfect on a drizzly day.

Bantry is where the Sheep’s Head Peninsula begins. I’ve driven it in an afternoon and, if visibility is good, The Tin Pub in Ahakista and Finn Mac Cool's Seat are totally worth the detour for unbeatable views.

Stay: A local B&B or hotel
Don’t miss: Lough Hyne
Eat: Union Hall salmon in Glandore

Day 3: Bantry to Allihies

Driving time: 90 mins

Glengarriff sits just along the water from Bantry. This drive passes seaweedy inlets and, as on the entirety of this route, you can pull over wherever you like to admire the unspoilt views. Due to the Gulf Stream, Glengariff has its own microclimate; you’ll notice the flora here is dense and tropical. The real highlight is the woodland walk and swimming around the Blue Pool. It’s up there in my list of favourite places in the world to swim, it’s surprisingly warm in summer and the surrounding mountains make the perfect backdrop. Don’t miss the short boat ride over to Garnish Island for seal spotting and spectacular gardens that wouldn’t look out of place in Italy.

Glengarriff is the ideal point to start the Beara Peninsula drive. Overshadowed by its well-trodden neighbour, The Ring of Kerry, it’s shorter and equally scenic, with dramatic cliffs and beaches you wouldn’t believe were in Ireland. I like to stop in the small fishing town of Castletownbere before continuing to Ireland's only cable car at Dursey Island. I recently discovered a tiny hidden beach here called White Strand, with vistas rivalling the Mediterranean. Nearby, Ballydonegan Beach is perfect for summer swimming and walking distance from Allihies, which has a handful of guesthouses and colourful O’Neill’s pub with weekly traditional music sessions.

Stay: Beachview Bed and Breakfast, Allihies
Don’t miss: Dzogchen Beara Meditation Retreat Centre for unique views
Eat: The Fish Kitchen, Bantry

Day 4: Allihies to Cork City

Driving time: 3 hours

Your sat-nav will direct you back the way you came towards Cork but ignore it and continue around the peninsula, passing through rainbow-coloured Ardgroom and Eyeries and briefly hopping across the border to County Kerry, where hairpin bends hug the coastline. At the village of Lauragh, follow the signs for The Healy Pass and trundle along this extraordinarily peaceful mountain route, accompanied only by flocks of sheep.

Gougane Barra Forest Park is my final suggested stop. It’s not the most direct route to get here but the detour pays off if you like sweeping mountains and waterfalls. The tiny St Finbarr's Oratory sits out on the choppy lake, dwarfed by its dramatic surroundings. Park up for free and walk down past the barriers to an array of signposted hikes – a tranquil end to a whirlwind road trip.

Don’t miss: The Healy Pass
Eat: Homemade soup and soda bread at Cronin’s Cafe

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How to see the best of Ireland's West Cork coast on a four-day road trip

I spent 24 hours in Cork City before embarking on a road trip around County Cork. It was my first time in Ireland’s second city, though I’m not a newcomer to the Emerald Isle – having spent time in West Cork, Kerry, Wexford and Dublin. Ireland’s capital tends to steal the limelight, but laid-back gastro haven Cork City, I found, sits quite contentedly in its shadow.
From the fresh produce at the famed English Market to hearty pub grub, visitors and locals can enjoy the city’s reputation as the foodie capital of Ireland. I was here for traditional music, Guinness and local craft beer and fresh seafood, and the city didn’t disappoint.

Being a Londoner, Cork City’s prices felt – though not cheap – comparatively modest. The city’s growing number of welcoming hipster joints, chic cafes and pubs did dent my bank account a little; the food and drink here is enticing, and moreish! But there are a bundle of free attractions, and many of the locally-made craft souvenirs felt authentic rather than touristy. The best thing about Cork City? I was made to feel at home before I could finish my first reasonably-priced pint.
Pre-trip spending
Flights: The return flights were £79 with £17 each for baggage with Ryanair. We’ve booked flights for less before, out of season, but this was a June-July trip so was bound to be a little pricier.

Accommodation: As we only had one night, we opted for a room within a flat booked through Airbnb ( £25 each). This meant we could be in the dead centre of town, without having to splash out. Equidistant between the Victorian Quarter and St Luke’s Cross, it was a perfect stroll away from the pubs and bars we were aiming for on the first night (priorities in check) and a handy base for exploring the next day.
Total: £121
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On the ground
Friday
Total: £23.75
6pm: Being a fairly organised duo, it was to our horror that we realised we’d left one of our backpacks on the train to the airport. (Side note: we managed to retrieve it in London a few weeks later, phew). With the lack of toiletries now between us, we were forced to stock up on more pricey miniature travel items at Stansted’s Boots ( £3.66 each). If we thought our luck was down, it was about to plummet even further. Flashing above us on the departures board was our flight, delayed by almost two hours. Forced to forget about our potentially delightful evening at one of Cork’s dining establishments, we instead each bought a cold and unsurprisingly disappointing Meal Deal sandwich and crisps combo ( £3.99 each). The airport was full of delays and so this felt like the cheapest and easiest option for a couple of hangry travellers.
10pm: We finally checked into our Airbnb. Our host was friendly, accepted our apologies regarding the late arrival graciously, and showed us to our room. She assumed we were shattered (correct) and might want to get straight to bed, but we weren’t about to let some tiredness get in the way of our live music and pub plans, so off we went!

11pm: Though we were late to the party, Cork was still awake and full of energy. We wandered down to the pubs, bars and restaurants and spent the night in Sin É, an old pub renowned for its live music ‘trad’ sessions. There were about a dozen young musicians sitting in the pub’s well-worn booths and armchairs playing everything from the tin whistle to the banjo, and onlookers singing along and swaying with sloshing pints. I had two pints of Guinness and shared some packets of crisps and nuts ( £8.95). The walls and ceilings of the pub are pasted with music posters and slogans, and the whole ambience of the place epitomises Ireland’s warmth and spirit.
1am: Demolishing a large pizza ( £7.15 each to share) along to a soundtrack of Eminem in a brightly lit late-night pizza joint didn’t feel inherently Irish or healthy, but having skipped a proper dinner and with 4.5 pints of Guinness in us, it was a fitting end to the night.

Saturday
Total: £27.62
10am: After a lie-in we went to explore the city. We strolled past pastel-washed houses lining the steep hills on our side of town, wide open riverside walkways and an abundance of cute cafes. We stumbled across a vintage indoor market called Mother Jones Flea Market. Inside was a ramshackle nest of clothing, books, records, jewellery and furniture run by various stall-owners. Despite a growling stomach, I was eager to pop in, and came out with a little pendant ( £4.50).
11am: We’d heard very good things about artisan Cork Coffee Roasters, so hunted it down for a morning brew. We sat in the window of the bright red, plant-strewn cafe, watching the city waking up with a latte ( £2.50) and flat white in hand. Again, tempted by the city sights we detoured away from breakfast options and found ourselves at the famed English Market. This was both a delight and offence on the senses, from the flowers to the fish market. We soon lost sight of each other in the myriad stalls. Cork city's veggie, vegan and organic food scene is booming and there was a huge selection of it at the English Market. Knowing that we might not be able to stock up on some items in rural Cork, we bought a Vpud ( £2.70 each), a vegan black pudding, which absolutely tastes like the real thing.

12pm: Very much in need of some food by this point, we found an ideal brunch spot in a veggie eatery, Café Gusto. This was a find – we were so hungry at this point we’d have eaten anything, but we were spoiled with huge portions of flavoursome Instagram-worthy brunches. I had poached egg, roasted sweet potato, caramelised onions and goats cheese on sourdough toast ( £5.82). We now didn’t need to eat for a long while.

1pm: Wanting to walk off brunch, we visited St Fin Barre’s Cathedral, gorgeous Fitzgerald Park, the shaded and leafy University College Cork gardens and walked along the River Lee. We didn’t go for the tour, but had a peek at Cork City Gaol’s impressive exterior. We headed up the hills again and did as the tourists do and rang the Bells of Shandon in the belfry of 18 th century St Anne’s Church, overlooking 360-degree views of the city and beyond ( £4.50 to climb the tower and ring the bells).

4pm: After considerably more time spent on our feet than anticipated, I fancied a well-earned beer in the sun. We came across what became one of my favourite haunts in Cork, the Franciscan Well Brewery. The brewery and bar sits on the ancient site of a 13th-century monastery, hence the name. The wood-panelled bar opens up to an expansive beer garden filled with pretty hanging baskets. A trio of musicians were playing at a table across from our beer-barrel-turned-tabletop and I sampled some lovely red ale ( £5.08).

6pm: We collected our belongings from the Airbnb and bought tickets for a bus trip ( £2.52) from the city centre to Cork City airport where we'd pick up car to drive onwards to West Cork. We were going to grab dinner in town, but decided to save ourselves for a lovely traditional Irish home-cooked dinner of locally caught salmon (caught at Union Hall in West Cork) at my boyfriend’s grandmother’s in a tiny village called Inchigeelagh.
The final tally
Overall spend: £51.37 + flights and baggage (£96) + accommodation (£25) + coach journey (£2.52) = £174.89
Notes: Cork City is a great jumping-off point to explore the breath-taking rugged wilds and remote peninsulas of West Cork – I’d highly recommend one night in Cork City and then a few days exploring the rural delights nearby by car.
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Spending Diary: what I spent in 24 hours in Cork City

For some, Ireland is the land of saints and scholars, a peaceful isle of rolling hills and lilting music. It is all of that and more, but it’s also a place of quirks and odd habits, full of raucous, irreverent people and nonsensical transport systems. So how to navigate this little island at the edge of Europe?
It will take longer than this article to understand the Irish people, but you’ll be off to a good start with this handy list of dos and don’ts.

Don’t rush your trip
Lots of people come to Ireland hoping to cram the entire island’s highlights into one weekend. Yes, we’re small, but do you really want to spend your entire holiday stuck in a car, navigating unfamiliar roads in the hope of ticking off all the sights just to return home exhausted?

By all means, have a plan, but trim down that itinerary or, even better, file it away once in a while. Spend a day strolling aimlessly or an evening hopping between the local pubs to relax and have a chat. There’s a reason Guinness has a two-part pour; good things, like a perfect pint, take time.
Do rent a car
If you want to get out of the main cities and into the countryside, renting your own transportation is the best option. Rural public transport is generally slow, expensive and runs on a very sporadic timetable. By car, you’ll see far more of the gorgeous countryside and discover some real hidden gems. Don’t worry about getting lost, just pull over and ask the next person you see for directions.

Remember it will always take longer to travel distances than you think, or your sat nav tells you. Don’t feel obliged to travel at the speed limit; roads in rural areas can be twisting, narrow and of varying quality, and it’s dangerous to drive at high speeds if you’re not familiar with the route. Also, if you’re never encountered roundabouts before, read up about them beforehand and remember to always give way to the right.
Don’t take everything seriously
Let’s be honest, we like to find humour in almost everything or, as Brendan Behan said, we have a “wonderful lack of respect for everything and everybody”. There are no formalities here, and if you start chatting with the locals, you will almost certainly be teased, but it’s all in good fun. Give back as much as you get and you’ll have a friend for the evening at least. Expect a healthy suspicion of authority and a total lack of ceremony; embrace it!

Do get your round in
Don’t feel pressured to enter a ‘round’, where everyone buys the group a drink in turn – you'll also find that a large group is sometimes best split into two or more separate rounds, making things more manageable. However, if someone does buy you drink, ensure you get them one back. You can always refuse a drink but if it’s your turn, you have to go to the bar. Failure to do so will result in you being talked about after you leave – and not in pleasant terms.

Don’t be offended by the swearing
Yes, in general Irish people swear a lot. Think of it more of a verbal tic than any sign of aggression. It makes an impact, adds a bit of colour to the English language (which we love to bend to our own will anyway) and it feels good. Remember, we’re not swearing at you, we’re just swearing.
Do bring an outfit for every type of weather
An Irish summer can bring sunshine, rain and wind all in the space of an afternoon. Dress appropriately and have a backpack with  options – a rain jacket is a good idea even if the sun is shining – if you don’t want to have to turn back from your outing. Pack light layers and waterproof shoes, unless you’re planning on spending the entire time indoors.
But don’t be surprised when Irish people don’t follow their own advice on this one. Very few people carry an umbrella – we like to hope for the best.

Don’t attempt our accent or ask us anything about leprechauns
Unless you’ve been living here for some time or have a magical knack for imitation, your Irish accent will most likely be appalling. We’re well able to take a ribbing and some banter but don’t mistake self-deprecation for a lack of pride. Don’t ask us about your distant ancestors: we definitely don’t have the answers! And please, everybody, leave those leprechaun hats in the souvenir shops where they belong!
But if you ask politely, you’ll find most Irish people surprisingly open to talking about the controversial topics of the day like the political situation in Northern Ireland. As a small nation with a complex history and politics, we don’t like being misunderstood so we’re usually happy to give our perspective if we’re being treated with respect.
Do read one of our amazing authors before you visit
A good book is a must for any trip. Brush up on your wit with Oscar Wilde, or dose up on bleak, absurd Irish humour with Samuel Beckett. For a hilarious crash course in early 20th-century history pick up Roddy Doyle’s A Star Called Henry, or get an insight into rural life after the Celtic Tiger crash with Donal Ryan’s The Spinning Heart. Go lighter with the fabulously funny Watermelon from Marian Keyes or darker with Anne Enright’s The Gathering. We have some of the most famous writers in the world and there’s something for everybody.

Do eat local food
While we may not have a world-famous reputation for food, we do have some incredible places to eat, and the many restaurants and pubs around the country use fresh, high-quality ingredients. You won’t find better quality dairy anywhere in the world, from melt-in-your-mouth cheese to creamy milk chocolate and butter – best slathered on everything you can. Don’t attempt to haggle, even in local food markets. If you’re eating in, a tip of 10% is standard but not compulsory.
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Dos and don'ts in Ireland

Ireland's four liveliest cities – the culture-packed hubs of Dublin, Cork, Galway and Belfast – teem with fascinating museums and galleries, fabulous food and drink scenes and legendary live music and nightlife. Once you’ve taken in all the urban action, escape into glorious landscapes harbouring ancient sites, picturesque towns and traditional Irish villages sitting just outside the city limits.

Dublin
Brú na Bóinne
Striking out from Ireland 's capital, the vast Neolithic necropolis Brú na Bóinne (the Boyne Palace) lies 50km north in County Meath. Predating Stonehenge by over 1000 years, this Unesco World Heritage site is home to several passage tombs and ancient monuments including Newgrange, Knowth, and Dowth. These were the largest manmade structures in Ireland until Anglo-Norman castles were built 4000 years later. With white round stone walls spanning 80m in diameter and topped by a 13m-high grass dome, Newgrange’s inner stone-lined chamber aligns with the sun every year during the winter solstice. Knowth contains extraordinary passage-grave art, and while Dowth's tombs are inaccessible, you're free to explore the surrounding site. Shuttles run to the tombs from the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre, which has interactive exhibits on prehistoric Ireland. Countless other ancient burial mounds and standing stones are located nearby.

Glendalough
In the invigorating Wicklow Mountains, some 70km south of Dublin, is enchanting Glendalough (from the Irish Gleann dá Loch, meaning the ‘Valley of the Two Lakes'). Bring your hiking boots to explore here. To the east of the Lower Lake is the site of the monastery founded by St Kevin in the 5th century. Although it fell into ruin from 1398, remains include a superbly preserved 10th century round tower, a cathedral dedicated to St Peter and Paul, and St Kevin’s Kitchen (a church). Reached by a 1.5km walk, the Upper Lake has more remains on its southern shore, including the 11th century Romanesque Reefert Church, and the cave where it's thought St Kevin lived.
Powerscourt Estate
En route between Dublin (45km) and Glendalough (28km), it's well worth stopping at Powerscourt Estate. Surrounding a Palladian mansion, the 20-hectare landscaped gardens were originally laid out in the 1740s. In the 19th century, horticulturalist Daniel Robinson added rambling walking paths, hidden hollows, walled gardens, statuary and sweeping terraces overlooking Wicklow's Great Sugarloaf Mountain. The estate's precipitous Powerscourt Waterfall is Ireland's highest at 121m.

Cork
Cobh
Situated 23km southeast of Ireland's 'second city', Cork, Cobh (pronounced 'cove') sits on the southern side of Great Island (linked to the mainland by causeways). The colossal French Gothic St Colman's Cathedral looms above the harbourside town's brightly painted buildings. In the devastating Famine years, Cobh was the departure point for emigrants, whose harrowing journeys are vividly recounted at the Cobh Heritage Centre, The Queenstown Story. In 1912, the Titanic docked here before its ill-fated Atlantic crossing; the poignant museum Titanic Experience Cobh is set in the original White Star Line offices. Ferries depart Cobh for Spike Island, an 18th-century artillery fort that served as a prison during the Irish War of Independence and again from 1984 to 2004; guided tours lead you around the highlights.
Midleton
Save an outing to Midleton, 24km east of Cork, for a Saturday morning, when you can catch the Midleton Farmers Market in full swing. Beech wood–smoked salmon from nearby Belvelly Smokehouse is a must-try; you'll also find wonderful cheeses, breads, preserves and other delicacies. While you're in town, drop by the Jameson Experience, in a restored 200-year-old whiskey distillery, which has tastings and tours.
Kinsale
From Cork, a quick 27km zip south brings you to the port town of Kinsale. After strolling its narrow, winding streets lined with independent shops and its boat-filled harbour, explore the mighty star-shaped 17th-century fortress Charles Fort. The best way to reach it is via the coastal Scilly Walk, a 6km return trip from the town centre. Make time to dine at one of Kinsale's exceptional restaurants, such as seafood specialist Fishy Fishy.

Galway
Connemara
Along the Wild Atlantic Way on Ireland's rugged west coast, the hauntingly beautiful Connemara region unfolds northwest of bohemian Galway. Framed by scalloped beaches and fishing villages, its interior is a patchwork of bogs, valleys, slate-toned lakes and peaks including the quartzite Twelve Bens mountain range; several are enclosed within the Connemara National Park. Seascapes unfurl along the Sky Road, a 15km driving or cycling loop from Connemara's quaint 'capital', Clifden. Another notable highlight is a visit to Kylemore Abbey, a 19th-century neo-Gothic monestary located one hour outside of Galway.
Aran Islands
Offshore, linked by ferry and prop planes to Connemara, with shuttle-bus connections from Galway, the three rocky, windswept Aran Islands – Inishmore, Inishmaan and Inisheer – preserve their local traditions and Irish language. Laced with drystone walls, these little-populated islands shelter extraordinary historic sites such as Inishmore's clifftop Dun Aengus fort, dating back over 2000 years. In summer, there are also ferries from Doolin in the Burren.
The Burren
South of Galway in County Clare, the Burren's otherworldly limestone moonscapes, former sea beds forced up by seismic shifts in the earth's crust some 270 million years ago, blaze with wildflowers in spring. Hiking in this geological wonderland is sublime. Villages in the area include Doolin, famed for its trad music pubs and close to the surf-pounded Cliffs of Moher, and delightful Ballyvaughan on Galway Bay's southern shore. Local artisans produce everything from goat's cheese to jam and chocolate, as well as perfumes, candles and soaps inspired by the Burren's wildflowers.

Belfast
Giant's Causeway
More extraordinary geology can be seen at the Giant's Causeway, 60km north of Northern Ireland's buzzing capital Belfast. According to legend, these 40,000 hexagonal basalt columns were built by mythical giant Finn McCool to fight his rival Benandonner in Scotland (in fact they were formed by cooling lava 60 million years ago). The Unesco World Heritage-listed site is the terminus of a bracing 16.5km hike to/from the vertiginous, swaying Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. These are just two attractions along the scenic Causeway Coastal Route that’s best explored over two to three days.
Navan Fort
Pre-Christian history is palpable at Navan Fort, 43km southwest of Belfast. Known as Emain Macha in Irish, it was Ulster's pagan nerve centre from around 1150 BC until the arrival of St Patrick, who based himself nearby (today Ireland's ecclesiastical capital, the little cathedral city of Armagh, 3km to the east). A major archaeological site, Navan Fort has a main circular earthwork enclosure stretching 240m in diameter, enclosing a smaller circular structure, and an Iron Age burial mound. The interpretive Navan Centre has a recreated Iron Age settlement.
Hillsborough
Just 19km south of Belfast, genteel Hillsborough is synonymous with the late 18th-century Hillsborough Castle, the British monarch's official Northern Ireland residence. Guided tours provide historical context; its gardens incorporate ornamental lawns, waterways, woodlands and glens. Close by, Hillsborough Fort was built as an artillery fort in 1650 by Colonel Arthur Hill (hence 'Hillsborough'); it was remodelled as a Gothic-style tower house a century later. Originally a Georgian market house, the Hillsborough Courthouse – which operated as one from 1810 until 1986 – now hosts exhibitions. An equally compelling reason to visit Hillsborough is its trove of gastropubs, not least the outstanding Parson's Nose, overlooking Hillsborough Castle's lake.
Lonely Planet has produced this article and video for Tourism Ireland. All editorial views are those of Lonely Planet alone and reflect our policy of editorial independence and impartiality.

Quick escapes from Ireland's liveliest cities

Full to the brim with excellent food, bustling bars and interesting attractions, Cork has all the ingredients for a perfect weekend away. Best of all, in this compact city everything is generally within easy reach of everything else – and far away from the crowds that descend on Dublin and Galway in high season. Use Cork as a base for exploring the wilder parts of the south, but make sure you spend a couple of days here to sample its own delights.

Day one – bells, markets and an old pharmacy
For the cutest start to your Cork two-dayer, enjoy a leisurely breakfast at Tara’s Tea Rooms, sipping loose-leaf tea or freshly brewed coffee from dainty crockery and tucking into everything from a full Irish breakfast to delicate pastries. You might suddenly find you have room for more than you thought when you spot their delectable selection of cakes.

Work off your treats with a trip to St Anne’s Church to climb the tower and ring the famous Shandon Bells. You’ll be heading up more than 100 steps to get to the top, but it’s easy and fun to pause on your way to have a go on the famous bells and impress anyone within hearing range. Having entertained friends and locals, continue upwards and your reward is a 360-degree view of the city you’ll be exploring over the next couple of days.
After your descent, walk to the neo-Gothic wonder that is St Fin Barre’s Cathedral. While small in comparison to the cathedrals of other cities, the beauty is in the details. The interior is exquisitely ornate with incredible stained glass windows depicting biblical scenes. The grounds alone are worth the trip, with a serene meditation garden and an immaculately manicured labyrinth.

Follow your nose to the English Market, a feast of local foodstuffs to suit all tastes. If you have access to cooking facilities, you’ll find fresh fish, meat, cheese and vegetables plus a treasure trove of unusual ingredients from around the world to pair them with in your own culinary creations. If not, stock up on bread, deli goods, cakes and even champagne for a picnic basket fit for a king, or, for something a little more formal, grab lunch at Farmgate Cafe. Sitting under the market’s wooden rafters above the bustling stalls below, this place has a menu specialising in Cork dishes using local ingredients.
Spend the rest of the afternoon, and maybe the evening, indulging in a spot of culture. Check the listings at the Triskel Arts Centre, a hub for exhibitions, concerts, art-house cinema and literary events. For theatre, it’s hard to beat the ambience of the Everyman, a beautiful Victorian-era building that can seat 650 people yet still manages to seem intimate while hosting first-class international and Irish productions.
For alternative nighttime entertainment, whisk yourself away to the darkly romantic surroundings of Arthur Mayne's. Given its previous incarnation as a chemists for 120 years, it might not immediately sound like a good spot to cosy up with your travel buddy, but the brick walls and dark wood of this wine bar, along with its displays of apothecary delights, will soon change your mind. It’s also one of the only restaurants serving food until 1.30am, leaving you plenty of time to work your way through the extensive wine menu.
If you still have anything left in the tank, Voodoo Rooms is less than a five minute walk away and offers two rooms of music and a hopping dance floor. If your tastes veer towards the electronic, Dali is all about deep house and techno and has a world-class sound system to boot.
Day two – brunch, ancient Ireland and trad music
After a long night, you might need a late start on your second day in Cork. Enjoy a leisurely recovery breakfast at Ali’s Kitchen. Tucked behind a gorgeous red brick facade, Ali’s is a huge hit with the locals thanks to a menu that’s small but perfectly formed, with everything made from scratch each morning. The ingredients are often sourced from the English Market or other local producers, and there are plenty of caffeinated and sweet treats to perk you up.

While away the afternoon in the pretty surroundings of Fitzgerald’s Park, a tranquil green space about a 25-minute walk from the city centre. Sitting along the River Lee, it boasts an excellent playground, the Cork Public Museum (interesting at any time and perfect if the weather isn’t being kind) and plenty of serene riverside spots to enjoy your picnic from yesterday (if the weather is being kind). Afterwards, stroll across the road to explore the lush grounds of University College Cork. A pretty campus in its own right, the highlight is the Aula Maxima Stone Corridor, which boasts a fascinating collection of Ogham Stones. These gravestones once marked the resting places of chieftains and bards with inscriptions of early Primitive Irish and are approximately 1500 years old. On your way out, pop into the Glucksman Gallery for some art therapy. This renowned gallery is home to eclectic exhibitions of contemporary works and installations made all the better for being housed in a beautifully bright space.
By now you’ll be strolling back to the city, and you could do a lot worse than trying to squeeze into Feed Your Senses to try their exquisite tapas menu. Cork has a big Spanish expat community, and Feed Your Senses is one of the most authentic places in the country to get a Mediterranean meal.

You can’t finish your Cork adventure without a visit to Sin É, the city’s most famous home of Irish traditional music. Sunday is particularly popular, but sessions are hosted every night of the week. If you’re sitting near the musicians' corner downstairs, you’ll be expected to stay quiet and enjoy the music, but in other areas of the bar, you can chat away. Don’t leave Cork without trying a creamy pint of Murphy’s, a stout made in Cork and the city’s rival to Guinness. It’s fresher and arguably tastier than the capital’s contender and much more popular with Corkonians, so round off your trip with a pint and a sláinte.
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Two days in Cork: a short break in the Rebel City

Spread roughly about the four main compass points, the cities of Dublin, Cork, Galway and Belfast are remarkably different from each other, despite all sharing a pretty small island.

Dublin
Ireland’s capital may be small, but it has more personality than a city twice its size. Within the hotchpotch collection of architecture that makes up the city centre – medieval flying buttresses, late 20th-century grey boxes and row upon row of 18th-century expressions of Georgian elegance – is an intoxicating mix of heritage and hedonism.
Dublin is home to many of Ireland’s national treasures, carefully displayed in the three branches of the National Museum – archaeology; decorative arts & history; and natural history. And don’t forget the Book of Kells, part of Trinity College’s Old Library that also includes the stunning Long Room. For more chilling bits of Irish history, look no further than Kilmainham Gaol, which played a central role in the struggle for independence. Fancy high quality art? There’s the National Gallery, of course, but the Dublin City Gallery – Hugh Lane and the Irish Museum of Modern Art have top-drawer modern and contemporary art collections.

But who are we kidding? You can’t come to Dublin without making a pilgrimage to the home of the black stuff, so a visit to the Guinness Storehouse – part of the famous brewery founded in 1759 – is an absolute must. And while they’ll serve you a delicious pint of Guinness with a splendid city view at tour’s end – it’s best to also enjoy a drink in the sanctity of one of the city’s traditional pubs – of which there are hundreds to choose from, old and new. Need one recommendation? We suggest John Mulligan’s – so beautiful and steeped in history you’ll be photographing it from every angle.
Hardly surprising that the capital would have Ireland’s biggest selection of restaurants, for all budgets and for every taste. The best restaurant in town in 2017 was the Greenhouse, but it’s got plenty of exalted company; while the selection of midrange options is just staggering – from authentic Japanese at Banyi to terrific tacos from a truck at K Chido Mexico.
Cork
‘The Real Capital of Ireland’ – as Cork is known to those who live there – might be one-fifth the size of Dublin, but that is part of the appeal, as most of its charms are stacked on a small island in the middle of the River Lee – although you’ll have to go beyond it to explore its historical sights, like the fascinating Cork City Gaol.
Cork is a city best explored on foot and with only a vague sense of destination. You should deliberately lose yourself in the tangled grid of 17th-century alleys and narrow streets that run off the grand Georgian thoroughfares.

Along the way you’ll find the English Market, a covered Victorian market full of stalls showcasing the very best of Ireland’s locally made produce. It’s one of the city’s highlights and a big clue to Cork’s reputation as a gourmet hotspot. The Farmgate Café, on a balcony in the middle of English Market, is a fine example of that reputation realised, as are bistros like Market Lane and Nash 19. Even vegetarians are given due and proper respect: Café Paradiso is one of the best restaurants in town, in any category.
Although Cork has its fair share of modish joints where you can sup artisanal coffee while sitting on a crate or drink a cocktail out of a jam jar, the city remains happily traditional and the best places to enjoy a good night out are its fine collection of old-school pubs, like An Spailpín Fánac, the ‘Wandering Labourer,’ which has regular traditional music sessions to go along with the open fires and flagstone floors. Other popular bars include the tiny Mutton Lane Inn (get in early to bag a snug) and Sin É (the live music is sensational), while if you’re into micro-brews, the award-winning Rising Sons and the Franciscan Well Brewery are both producers of superb local brews – the former’s Mi Daza stout is good enough to make you forget about Guinness.
Galway
Everybody loves Galway City, and it’s easy to see why. Maybe it’s the multi-coloured buildings on the pedestrianised streets of the city centre, the abundance of alternative lifestyle shops – Galway embraces all kinds of spiritual pursuits – or maybe it’s because this is a city that knows how to party. The summer is festival time: show up anytime between June and September and you’ll fall into a celebration of film, the arts, horse racing and even oysters.

Galway has some of the most famous pubs in Ireland. Neachtain’s and Tigh Coílí are invariably always packed with locals and visitors, who come for the atmosphere of a classic pub and – in the latter – the superb traditional music, but you can also find both in O’Connor’s and the Crane, which are popular but not always as packed as their more famous brethren. And if you like your music a little more contemporary, Galway can take care of that too: the Roisin Dubh is the place to hear some of the best rock music in town.
If any city is set to rival Cork in terms of food, it’s Galway. There are two Michelin stars in town – the stunning Loam and the terroir specialist Aniar – but you don’t have to spend big to eat well: the modern Irish cuisine at Ard Bia is as good as you’ll get anywhere in the country, while Oscar’s does wonders with seafood. Aniar’s chef and owner, JP McMahon, has a side interest in tapas, which is beautifully prepared at Cava Bodega, and if you want a really special treat, head to the Glenlo Abbey Hotel for fine dining in an original Pullman car used in Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express.
Belfast
Northern Ireland’s capital and biggest city by far, Belfast is very much an international city with a dynamic young population focused on moving on from its past. This is a burgh on the up – a busy hive where the headlines these days are about the latest fancy restaurant or the opening of a new interactive museum.

This is the city that birthed the Titanic, so it’s hardly surprising that the top museum in town is a bells-and-whistles, high-tech tribute to the world’s most famous shipwreck, but Belfast’s other history is as compelling: a Black Taxi Tour will reveal West Belfast’s political legacy through its colourful murals and the infamous Peace Wall. For added interest, a visit to the notorious Crumlin Road Gaol is also worthwhile.
But perhaps the most surprising part of any visit to Belfast is how good the food and nightlife is. There are echoes of Cork’s English Market in St George’s Market – and a fine balcony restaurant to boot in George’s. Holohan’s at the Barge is a super seafood spot on an actual barge, while the feast o’ fish at the Mourne Seafood Bar is second-to-none. The deconsecrated Ulsterville Presbyterian Church on Lisburn Road is home to arguably the best restaurant in town – the elegant Saphyre. When you’re done with dinner, there’s plenty of pubs to choose from, including a handful of Victorian classics like the Duke of York and National Trust-protected Crown Liquor Saloon, but in-the-know locals tend to opt for something a little more cutting edge – you’ll find them on the rooftop terrace of Perch and sipping cocktails in Love & Death Inc.

Ireland: a tale of four cities

Ireland’s beautiful, untamed Atlantic coast has attracted numerous visitors, including the makers of the latest Star Wars films. A visit to some of the dramatic filming locations for The Force Awakens and its sequel offers the chance to explore deep chasms and remote islands, and follow poets, dolphins and monks on Europe’s western frontier.

Stand on Ireland’s tip in County Donegal
Donegal’s Inishowen Peninsula, home to the most northerly point on the Irish mainland, was thrown into a frenzy when scenes featuring Luke Skywalker, Rey and the Millennium Falcon were shot here in early 2016. Filming centred around a deep chasm known as Hell’s Hole, which has been carved into the rock over millions of years by the fierce Atlantic, which roars below.

Hell’s Hole can be reached along a well-marked path that skirts the headland from Banba’s Crown, at the the tip of Malin Head. It was from Banba’s Crown (named after a mythical Irish queen) in a British Admiralty tower built during the Napoleonic Wars that the Marconi Company sent the first commercial message by wireless. From this windy perch you can look out towards Inishtrahull Island and, on a good day, Scotland.
Afterwards, warm yourself in the confines of Farren’s Bar, Ireland’s most northerly pub, just 2km from Banba’s Crown in Slievebawn. It’s hard to miss — there’s not much else around here, plus it has a giant mural of Yoda painted outside. Inside, you’ll receive a warm welcome and no shortage of anecdotes about the time Mark Hamill came in.
Ireland’s penchant for storytelling can be experienced at Malin Well, a natural spring said to cure many diseases, a short walk from Farren’s. The nearby Wee House of Malin is a little cave, supposedly once inhabited by a hermit, where legend states that no matter how many people enter there is always room for one more.
A 15-minute drive from Malin Well will bring you to Five Fingers Strand, one of Donegal’s world-class sandy beaches, which is seldom (if ever) busy and a popular stop-off point for visitors on their way to and from the top of Malin Head.
Need to know
The nearest airports are Derry and Donegal. Hiring a car is the best way to explore the peninsula, although Foyle Coaches ( foylecoaches.com) has a couple of routes that pass through Malin. For a cosy night’s stay, try Whitestrand B&B.
County Clare’s dazzling charm
It was surely the cliffs, so precipitous you feel the land could fall into the sea at any given moment, that brought Lucasfilm to Loop Head, a headland north of the River Shannon in County Clare. Filming for Episode VIII led to the closure of the elegant Victorian lighthouse here for several days. Up to five people can stay in the Lightkeeper’s Cottage ( irishlandmark.com) – it’s a great place to spot swooping puffins or dolphins bobbing in the waters below.

Loop Head’s main town, Kilkee, is a seaside resort that attracted the likes of Charlotte Brontë, Alfred Tennyson and William Makepeace Thackeray in its 1890s heyday. Also worth a visit is the traditional hamlet of Moyasta, which is renowned for its oysters and annual Crotty Galvin Traditional Music Festival ( ireland.com), a raucous, ceilidh -filled weekend.
Need to know
From Shannon Airport you can get a bus to Ennis, which connects to both Moyasta and Kilkee. From Kilkee a local taxi will take you out to the lighthouse.
Hilltop B&B has far-reaching views but our favourite touch is the offer of musical instruments for guests.
Traditional music in Dingle
Star Wars ’ 2016 filming on the Dingle Peninsula took place on the sublime headland of Ceann Sibeal (Sybil Head). It featured an apparent replica of the 6th-century monastery on Skellig Michael, which doubled as a Jedi temple in The Force Awakens.

On this stretch of coastline, foreboding rock faces give way to hidden coves and beaches and the sense of isolation is exhilarating.
If you’d rather something a little livelier, head to Dingle Town, which is something of a Mecca for travelling musicians – you can hear traditional music sessions every day of the week.
Dick Mack’s is the most famous of the town’s pubs and has its own Hollywood-style stars on the pavement celebrating past guests. O’Sullivan’s is another pub offering authentic traditional music – Daisy Ridley (who plays Rey) was spotted here doing shots in between filming.
Keep your eyes peeled for the town’s resident dolphin, Fungie, who has been delighting visitors for over 30 years.
Need to know
The nearest airport is in Kerry but if you’re travelling here by public transport you’ll need to come via Tralee.
The luxurious Castlewood Guest House ( castlewoodguesthouse.com) on Dingle Bay is consistently rated highly. Idás, in Dingle Town, offers modern Irish and French-inspired dishes using local ingredients.
The deep south in County Cork

As well as filming at its most northern point, Star Wars location scouts chose the most southern point on the Irish mainland, in County Cork. Filming for The Force Awakens’ sequel took place on a private spot at Brow Head, just south of Crookhaven Village, around 4km east of Mizen Head, where the cast and crew made use of abandoned mines and derelict buildings.
The offshore Fastnet Lighthouse is an iconic landmark that is remembered as the last land view for many 19th-century emigrants as they headed for a new life in America. For a sobering reminder of the impact of famine in these parts, head to the Skibbereen Heritage Centre, which houses a permanent exhibition on the Great Famine.
Need to know
The nearest airport is in Cork. You need a car to do justice to this region, as many of the most interesting villages are tricky to access by public transport.
The Barleycove Beach Hotel ( barleycovebeachhotel.com) is ideally located for the lovely Barley Cove beach and is just 4km from the cliffs of Mizen Head. The Crookhaven Inn has a simple menu of mainly seafood dishes, from chowder to open crab sandwiches.
Visiting ancient Skellig Michael

The nature reserve of Skellig Michael, a monolith off the coast of Kerry that seems to shoot out of the sea, is home to thousands of nesting seabirds, including puffins, kittiwakes and Manx shearwaters.
At the moment visitor numbers are limited to 180 per day and boats are only allowed to dock between May and October, although following an influx of interest thanks to its appearance at the end of Episode VII there have been calls to extend the season.
If you do manage to find space on a boat, pack your walking boots as the only way to reach the ruins of the medieval monastery is to climb the 600 steps carved from granite. It’s worth it — the stone beehive buildings are magical. Little wonder UNESCO classed Skellig Michael a World Heritage Site in 1996.
Need to know
There are two types of boat tours to the Skelligs – a landing tour and an eco-tour, which goes around Skellig Michael and the smaller Little Skellig. Both depart from Portmagee marina on the Ring of Kerry.

On the Star Wars trail in Ireland

The Emerald Isle's forests, parks and undulating countryside turn a kaleidoscope of gold, ruby and topaz hues come fall. Autumn is one of the most atmospheric seasons to visit Ireland: outdoor activities and incredible birdlife abound, local festivals and sporting events pack the calendar, and toe-tapping traditional music sessions in cosy pubs take place around crackling turf fires.

Ireland's exceptional museums also make wonderful refuges from the elements. Best of all, as the leaves start to fall, so do accommodation prices. After the summer holiday rush, crowds at key sights thin out, restaurants are easier to book at short notice, and roads are quieter, making driving and cycling more enjoyable.

Autumn festivals in Ireland

Rich traditional festivals in the fall months include early September's three-day Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival, with storytelling, workshops and walks on Ireland’s southernmost inhabited island off the coast of County Cork.

Wildly innovative performances take place during the two-week Dublin Fringe Festival, which is the precursor for the renowned 18-day Dublin Theatre Festival. Belfast International Arts Festival is held in the second half of October.

Music festivals strike up all over the island in autumn. Opera fans gather in Wexford Town for lesser-known works staged during the Wexford Opera Festival. The Republic's second-largest city, lively Cork, becomes even livelier during the country's best-known jazz fest, the Cork Jazz Festival. Folk, roots and indie singer-songwriters perform during Sligo Town 's six-day festival Sligo Live. For some more westerly jazz, don't miss County Galway 's four-day Jazz Festival.

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Sport also seizes the spotlight: crowds of over 80,000 cram Dublin's Croke Park on the last Saturday of August and first Sunday of September for the for the finals of the hurling and Gaelic football championships respectively.

And then there's Halloween. Popularised in North American culture by settlers from these parts, All Hallows' Eve (aka All Saints' Eve) has its origins in the ancient Celtic festival of Samhain, marking the end of summer and harvest, when people lit bonfires and wore costumes to deter spirits as the dead returned to earth before the winter 'new year'.

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Seasonal Irish flavours

During today's harvest, apples are picked, potatoes dug up and fishing fleets haul in prize catches. Get a taste at covered markets including Cork's ornate Victorian English Market, Belfast's St George's Market and colourful outdoor markets such as Dublin's Temple Bar Food Market. Learn to create dishes using autumnal ingredients at exceptional cookery schools, among them County Cork's Ballymaloe Cookery School, the Tannery in County Waterford; or celebrate the bounty at food festivals across the island.

In late August/early September, some 8000 oysters from Dundrum Bay star at the three-day Hillsborough Oyster Festival, County Down. Oysters are the centrepiece of several other festivals, particularly two in County Galway: the three-day Clarenbridge Oyster Festival in mid-September, and the rollicking Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival, over the last weekend in September.

Cookery competitions, demonstrations and banquets are just some of the highlights of Skibbereen 's 10-day A Taste of West Cork Food Festival, showcasing local producers in mid-September. The three-day Waterford Harvest Food Festival in Waterford City includes food markets and open-air picnics. But perhaps the biggest autumn event on foodies' calendars is the four-decades-strong Kinsale Gourmet Festival over three days in mid-October, when this County Cork seaside town shows why it's Ireland's unofficial gourmet capital.

Walking in Ireland in Autumn

Glorious walking trails wend through the variegated fall landscape, from short walks to long-distance routes, and the weather can be surprisingly blue-skied, crisp and dry (that said, always bring wet gear and wear sturdy shoes in case the going gets muddy).

Standout walking destinations at this time of year include County Kerry 's lake-filled Killarney National Park; the lush woodland and gentle hills of County Tipperary 's Glen of Aherlow; the picturesque Barrow Towpath, in counties Carlow and Kilkenny, from Borris to Graiguenamanagh and on to St Mullins; wooded trails around the ancient monastic site at Glendalough, County Wicklow; and in Northern Ireland, County Down's majestic Mourne Mountains, especially at Tollymore and Castlewellan Forest Parks.

Discover Ireland have downloadable maps and guides to hundreds of walks in the Republic of Ireland, as does Walk Northern Ireland in the North.

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The best golfing spots in Ireland during Autumn

In Ireland, golf isn't a 'good walk spoiled', but a fantastic opportunity to play some of the world's most revered courses, especially in autumn when demand for tee times drops. Spectacular locations include Lahinch Golf Club, 10km southeast of the Cliffs of Moher, and The Royal County Down Golf Club beneath the Mourne Mountains. Ireland's clubs all welcome non-members though you'll need a handicap from your home country to access the most prestigious. Comprehensive golfing information is available at the Golfing Union of Ireland.

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Where to surf in Ireland in Autumn

September and October are prime times to ride Ireland's waves, when the swells are generally highest and the water warmest (though you'll still want a thick wetsuit). Hotspots along the surf-pounded Atlantic coastline include Easkey and Strandhill in County Sligo, Bundoran in County Donegal, and the beaches around Portrush, County Antrim, Northern Ireland. Surf schools for all levels are listed with the Irish Surfing Association.

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Birdlife encounters

Ireland's location on Europe's western edge makes it an ideal stopover point for birds migrating from North America and the Arctic. Tens of thousands of overwintering light-bellied brent geese arrive at Castle Espie on Strangford Lough, County Down, in October.

Also from October, the southern counties become a temporary home to American waders (mainly sandpipers and plovers) and warblers. The Wexford Wildfowl Reserve is the winter home to 45% of the world's population of Greenland White-fronted Geese, some 8500 in total.

Need to Know

While fall is quieter than summer, it's still advisable to book accommodation ahead, and essential if you're coinciding your trip with festivals. Many attractions, accommodation and restaurants reduce their hours and some close altogether for winter, so confirm ahead, especially later in the season.

First published in June 2016, last updated August 2019

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