11 of the Best Things to Eat and Drink in Bermuda

Bermuda’s culinary scene can be a bit confusing if you don’t know the island’s history. Most first-time visitors expect Caribbean-esque food – and they wouldn’t be wrong. But there is so much more to Bermudian cuisine.

A mash-up of West African (not dissimilar to our sister islands to the south), Portuguese, British and West Indian flavors, Bermudian food is interesting, unique and delicious.

Fresh fish is plentiful, and spiny lobster is wildly popular when it’s in season. You won’t always find traditional Bermudian dishes in most restaurants, but you will find Bermudian takes on popular cuisines at casual fish spots, upscale steakhouses, British pubs and everything in between. These are some of our favorite things to eat and drink in Bermuda.

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1. Sample a bowl of fish chowder

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A bowl of fish chowder is about as Bermudian as it gets. But don’t get it twisted – this isn’t New England clam chowder.

It’s dark brown, thick and rich, packed with shredded fish, finely minced potatoes, onions, carrots and tomatoes. If you’re brave (or local), douse it with a splash of Gosling’s Black Seal Rum and a few shakes of Outerbridge’s Sherry Peppers.

Fish chowder isn’t inherently spicy, but it’s well seasoned and flavorful. It’s warm, comforting, thick and there's a flavor bomb in every bite. Add as much or as little pepper sauce as you’d like: it’s excellent on its own, but that fiery kick really elevates the dish.

Where to try it: Wahoo’s Bistro, Lobster Pot, Hog Penny.

2. Start the day with codfish and potatoes

There’s nothing like the smell of codfish and potatoes simmering in a Bermudian kitchen on a Sunday morning.

Cod became a staple for enslaved people when they were given dried codfish or bacalao from Portugal, as it was cheap, shelf-stable and filling.

They softened it by boiling, removed the salt, and created something magical: Bermuda’s traditional Sunday breakfast.

Today, it’s served with boiled potatoes and smothered in either onion butter sauce or tomato sauce, sometimes both. It’s often plated with banana, avocado, hard-boiled egg, and either cornbread or Johnny bread, a simple pan-fried quick bread.

When you get the fish, potato, tomato sauce and onion sauce in one bite, you should get salty, creamy, sweet and umami.

Where to try it: Temptation’s Cafe, Café Olé, Seaside Grill.

3. Have an old school Bermuda snack

Bermudians tend to love sweet things, even for breakfast, despite a sugar tax and high diabetes rates. One old-school favorite is the coffee roll, similar to a cinnamon roll but fluffier and topped with hard white icing.

The best way to enjoy it? Slice it in half, toast it, and load it with a fried egg, bacon (if that’s your thing), and cheese. Add a hot coffee on the side, and you’ve got yourself a classic island breakfast.

Where to try it: Keith’s Kitchen (food truck), Sensational Delights, Spot.

4. Devour a massive fish sandwich

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Seafood reigns in Bermuda, and the fish sandwich is a true icon. The fish (usually wahoo, snapper or rockfish) is seasoned, floured and deep-fried, then piled high on your bread of choice.

But do it the local way: toasted raisin bread, coleslaw, tartar sauce, a little hot sauce, fried onions, and maybe a slice of cheese. It’s salty, sweet, crunchy, tangy and creamy all in one bite – and totally unforgettable.

Wash it down with an icy cold ginger beer or, if you’re in the mood, a rum swizzle.

Where to try it: Mama Mia is a local favorite. Also check out Seaside Grill, Café Ole, and for a sit-in restaurant, Huckleberry at the Rosedon Hotel.

5. Don’t miss the traditional cassava pie

Most Caribbean islands have cassava dishes, often savory, boiled, fried or made into chips. But Bermuda’s version is unique: a dense, cake-like pie that can be more sweet or savory, depending on the cook. For Bermudians, it isn’t Christmas without cassava pie. Made from grated cassava root, eggs, butter and spices, it’s sometimes layered with shredded chicken.

Don’t mistake it for dessert – it’s served as a side dish and typically topped with chowchow or piccalilli, a British mustard-based relish of pickled vegetables and spices. It’s very difficult to describe the taste of cassava pie, but it’s truly decadent, buttery and rich.

Where to get it: During the holidays, you’ll find it at most restaurants. Offseason, look for it on local supermarket buffets: Supermart, Miles Market and Marketplace.

6. Sip a rum swizzle or a dark ‘n’ stormy

There’s been a long-standing debate over Bermuda’s national drink: is it the rum swizzle or the dark ‘n’ stormy?

The rum swizzle is a fruity punch made with Gosling’s Black Seal and Gold rums, orange and pineapple juices, grenadine, bitters and sometimes lime. Everyone has their own take, but don’t be fooled by the sweetness; it packs a serious punch.

The dark ‘n’ stormy is simpler but no less iconic: Gosling’s Black Rum, Barritt’s ginger beer, and a squeeze of lime. If it has anything else in it, it’s not the real deal.

Where to try: For swizzle, Wahoo’s Bistro, Whitehorse Pub, Swizzle Inn, the Terrace. Honestly, you can get a good dark ‘n’ stormy anywhere on the island.

7. Indulge in a fishcake on a hot cross bun

Bermuda-style fishcakes were invented here over a century ago from leftover codfish breakfast mashed with potatoes, onions, herbs and spices, then fried.

While you can enjoy them any time of year, the best way to eat one is during Easter, stuffed into a warm hot cross bun with icing.

The bun itself isn’t sweet, but some can be sweeter than others depending on how much icing is used. Some bakeries make a cross with dough and then brush on icing, while others pipe thick white icing into a cross.

Toppings vary: mayo, ketchup, cheddar cheese (my personal favorite), or tartar sauce. The combo is crunchy, sweet, savory, indulgent and a true local tradition.

Where to try it: Miles Market, Paraquet, Chiko’s Restaurant and the Crown & Anchor. Most supermarkets serve them year-round, but the hot cross bun combo shines during Easter.

8. Grab a fresh malasada

Thanks to Bermuda’s Portuguese influence, malasadas – fluffy, sugar-coated donuts from the Azores – are a beloved sweet treat. They’re fried fresh to order and often pop up at fairs, fundraisers or right outside Lindo’s Family Foods on a Saturday.

Where to try it: Keep an eye out at street fairs and pop-ups during local events.

9. Order a platter of rockfish ribs

Yes, fish ribs! And they are amazing. Rockfish ribs are a specialty at Wahoo’s Bistro in St George’s, where Chef Alfred Konrad grills them to perfection and brushes them with honey mustard barbecue sauce.

Rockfish are unique to Bermuda, specifically Wahoo’s, and because it’s grouper, the meat has a slightly sweet flavor. They’re usually served with two sides – coleslaw and peas and rice.

10. Gobble up a spiny lobster

Bermuda’s spiny lobster is like barbecue in southern US states – people have strong opinions on how it should be cooked and where to eat it. Available only from September 1 to March 31, it’s a seasonal delicacy worth seeking out.

Caribbean Spiny lobster meat tends to be sweeter than spiny lobster found in other parts of the world and typically has more meat than a Maine lobster.

Popular preparations include thermidor (baked with a creamy sauce), broiled with butter, or stuffed. Supplies are limited due to fishing regulations and the use of traditional lobster pots, so grab it when you can. The seasonality and regulations make this a pricey meal.

Where to try it: Wahoo’s Bistro, Lobster Pot, Red Carpet, Bella Vista Bar & Grill.

11. Sample the Bermuda fish plate

One of the island’s most popular meals, the fish plate ranges from casual to upscale. At its simplest, you’ll get a fried local fish filet with tartar sauce, fries and coleslaw.

At upscale restaurants, it’s the “catch of the day,” grilled or pan-seared, served with lemon butter or beurre blanc, a French butter sauce, and upgraded sides like celeriac purée or seasonal vegetables.

The type of fish on offer varies depending on the day and season, but expect rockfish, snapper, red hind, mahi mahi or wahoo.

Where to try it: Mama Mia, Seaside Grill, Village Pantry, Wahoo’s Bistro, Barracuda Grill.