From counter-service lunch spots to upscale establishments, let your taste buds guide your travel itinerary. Here's a sample platter of the best unexpected foodie destinations in the USA.

Editor's note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and always follow government advice.

1. Charlotte, North Carolina

The Queen City is slowly shedding its reputation as a staid financial hub, with a growing roster of talented chefs each doing their part to feed one of the fastest-growing cities in the nation. Start the day uptown (that’s downtown in Charlottean speak) at James Beard Award–nominated chef Greg Collier’s breakfast spot The Yolk Cafe for hearty hashes, shrimp and grits, and sweet potato waffles before heading to the Belmont area for Sweet Lew’s hickory and pecan wood-smoked BBQ.

Then it’s off to Optimist Hall, a food hall in a former textile mill. Its 120-year-old industrial framework houses Sichuan street food, Argentine empanadas, and Cuban pastelitos de guayaba (sweet pastries stuffed with guava). There are nearly 60 breweries – and counting – in the region.

2. Honolulu, Hawaii

Honolulu 's cuisine is loaded with indigenous and international flavors largely rooted in the state’s sugar plantation history and, in the last few decades, there's been a renewed appreciation for locally cultivated products on land and sea. Seek out nondescript chow spots like Helena’s Hawaiian Food, or Fukuya for Okazuya-style (or Japanese deli) plate lunches piled with mochiko chicken, nishime (Japanese vergetable stew), and rice. Find celebrated eateries in Chinatown (Vietnamese restaurant The Pig and the Lady ’s Pho French Dip can do no wrong), and upscale dining at Stripsteak Waikiki (third floor, International Marketplace).

3. San Diego, California

When you’ve filled up on the requisite tacos and craft beer, branch out to sample the rest of San Diego ’s diverse dining scene. In 2020, a number of restaurants celebrated their 10th anniversary (a feat for a restaurant anywhere), including moody French bistro Smoking Goat in trendy North Park (just say yes to their goat cheese cheesecake); and Milanese-inspired Bencotto, which specializes in northern-Italian recipes and 50 different types of fresh, handmade pastas.

Elsewhere, bookmark Convoy St in Kearny Mesa for your Korean BBQ and Vietnamese bakery fix; the City Heights and Rolando neighborhoods for Somali home cooking; and Oceanside for a sneak peek at the future of dining. San Diego welcomed its first zero-waste, plant-based restaurant The Plot in 2020 with offerings like mushroom aguachile with spicy carrot, and kale-stem “marrow.”

4. St Louis, Missouri

Those acutely tuned into the food world have already taken notice of this city's dining landscape. St Louis boasts a wealth of Bosnian and Balkans-inspired cuisine; a nod to the presence of the largest Bosnian population outside the country itself. Consider Balkan Treatbox for tasty pide – a wood-fired, bread cradle topped with meat or cheese and dressed in ajvar, a red-pepper-based condiment.

Similarly, upmarket yet unfussy restaurants make St Louis worth a trip for the food alone. Plant-forward Vicia might prompt you to shun commercially grown tomatoes forever. Dine at Cinder House for Brazilian-inspired fare. Start with its pão de queijo, a warm, cheesy bread.

Bulrush does modern Ozarkian cuisine, which chef Rob Connoley described to St Louis Magazine as "a sub-genre of Southern cooking, using traditional foraged ingredients and wild game.” That might include venison, rutabaga, and apple prepared three ways, and vinegar pie with fermented persimmon ice cream.

5. Tulsa, Oklahoma

Tulsa is changing, thanks in part to deliberate efforts to woo creatives to the city for a year (and fall in love with it enough to stay). To complement Tulsa’s stunning art deco architecture and genial vibes is an increasing number of dining options.

Lowood ’s menu incorporates whole charred branzino with piri-piri sauce, and roasted chicken with apple and fennel kimchi, and don’t skip the smoked mushrooms with peanut miso cream. Other best bets: gogi fries from Gogi Gui for “gut-busting Korean–American fusion,” and homemade labneh (similar to  Greek yogurt) from Oren. Have a craving conundrum? Mother Road Market, Tulsa’s first food hall, is a one-stop shop for sustenance from Mediterranean to Mexican, and desserts like small-batch ice cream and chewy cookies as big as your face.

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Eat your way through these 5 unexpected US foodie destinations

Even if all pools were open and social distancing wasn't an issue, nothing compares to the thrill of taking the plunge alone in the great outdoors, be it a mountain lake in Slovenia or a sea cave in Devon.

Whether you're a cold water cognoscente or just looking to dip your toe into this invigorating wellness activity, here's a selection of the loveliest wild (outdoor) swimming spots in Europe that won't cost a cent to use. Always check local restrictions before planning a trip and follow government health advice.

1. Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

The Julian Alps offer top-class swimming, including the lovely-but-chargeable Lake Bled lido. However, travel down the road to Triglav National Park ’s Lake Bohinj and discover wilder scenery for free. The Sava Bohinjka River provides a chilly thrill for flow-swimming fans.

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2. Purcaraccia Canyon, Corsica, France

The steep hike to the pools in Corsica 's Purcaraccia Canyon is demanding, but worth the effort. Swim in – and slide between – a series of pools fed by crystal-clear mountain water, and enjoy unwinding in a nature-made infinity pool teetering on a waterfall edge.

3. Baggy Point, Englan d

Swim through several secret sea caves at this delightful Devonshire dipping spot, including one tide-swept tunnel hidden from lily-livered landlubbers. You may even be lucky enough to share your swim with a seal, dolphin or porpoise, which are all often spied along this coastline.

4. Lake Walchen, Germany

Bavaria is blessed with a batch of brilliant bathing spots, and Lake Walchen, located deep in the mountains south of Munich, is one of the most spectacular. Gravel beaches surround the mineral-rich turquoise water, and there are offshore islands to explore.

5. Lac D’Annecy, France

Heated by subterranean hot springs, this Alpine lake near Annecy is unsurprisingly popular. Many beaches charge during the summer, but Plage d’Albigny à Annecy-le-Vieux and Plage des Marquisats are free. Wilder spots can be found too – some with great cliff jumps.

6. Lago di Fiastra, Italy

Beneath mountains on the north shore of this stunning beach-lined lake, is where you can slide into the embrace of its gin-clear water. Take a snorkel – there’s much to explore, including a legendary submerged village.

7. Loch Lomond, Scotland

You need a brave heart to swim in Scotland, but the picturesque Loch Lomond – Scotland's biggest lake – might just tempt you in. This is the home of the annual Go Swim event (postponed in 2020), and also, apparently, a monster – albeit one without the celebrity status of its Loch Ness cousin.

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Article first published in July 2016, and last updated in August 2020.

Europe's best places for wild swimming

The Bahamas reported its first case of COVID-19 on March 15, and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs closed the borders 10 days later. Four months later, there were just 119 confirmed cases across the islands, but cases jumped in mid-July and the travel restrictions that were lifted July 1 were rolled back. Here’s the latest.

Editor's note: This story was last updated on August 5, 2020. We will update this piece regularly to stay on top of the latest travel advice.

Travel restrictions in the Bahamas

The Bahamas have seen a dramatic spike in new cases since its reopening July 1, and the local lockdown situation - and international travel advice - has been changing quickly and often.

In a national address on 3 August, Prime Minister Hubert Minnis noted that there had been a surge in hospitalizations and demand for ICU beds and a new national lockdown would be initiated. While the Bahamas will remain open to international travel during the lockdown, it’s recommended that all travel is limited to essential purposes. All travelers arriving in the Bahamas will have to follow the lockdown protocols and all other travel policies contained in the latest Emergency Powers Order.

Travelers who do arrive there will be subject to a mandatory 14-day quarantine.

Cruise ships have not yet returned, but when they do, protocols could include the advance submission of health declarations, temperature screenings, and restrictions around disembarkation, according to the Bahamas tourism board.

While travel is currently discouraged, all incoming visitors and residents – by air and by sea – above age 10 must provide proof of a negative COVID-19 swab test, taken within the previous 10 days. An electronic health visa is also required, and travelers are asked to complete the form in advance by uploading their test results and providing any relevant contact information. Applications take up to 72 hours to process, and those approved will receive a green code to be presented at airport check-in and upon arrival.

Will I have to quarantine when I arrive in the Bahamas?

Everyone arriving in the Bahamas is required to quarantine for 14-days when they arrive. Travelers will be allowed to quarantine at a hotel, private club, rented accommodations (like Airbnbs), or on a private boat. They will have to submit to monitoring and install the HubbCat APP on their phone for contact tracing.

After 14 days, anyone intending to stay longer in the country will have to complete another COVID-19 test, at their own expense, to exit quarantine. More details, including rules for private aviation and private yachts and pleasure craft, can be found on bahamas.com/travelupdates.

Current lockdown status in the Bahamas

A national lockdown went into effect on Tuesday, 4 August at 10 pm and will remain in place for a minimum of two weeks. During this time, quarantine measures will be enforced, and all businesses in the country – including curbside and takeaway dining and retail – are required to suspend operations. Residents will only be able to leave their homes on Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 7 am to 5 pm - and then only for the sole purposes of getting essential items like groceries, water, medication and gas. Find out more details at opm.gov.bs.

You might be wondering about...

New Providence: As of July 20, public and private beaches and parks on New Providence, Paradise Island, Rose Island, Athol Island and the surrounding cays are closed until further notice, as are the restaurants at Nassau’s Arawak Cay and Potter’s Cay. The two Sandals properties in the Bahamas were scheduled to welcome guests July 1 with some extreme new protocols, but the Nassau resort’s opening date has been pushed back to November 1.

What they’re saying in the Bahamas about COVID-19 and travel

When the Bahamas entered phase two of its reopening on July 1, resuming operation of commercial airlines, hotels and vacation rentals, and transportation like taxis, jitneys, and buses, authorities were cautiously optimistic – but noted that the situation would be closely monitored in the days ahead.

Unfortunately, things didn’t go according to plan, with Prime Minister Minnis noting in his July 19 address to the Bahamian people that the situation deteriorated “at an exponential rate” since the country’s borders reopened. “Grand Bahama has seen a resurgence of COVID-19 cases after being Covid-19 free for a little over two months,” he said, an increase that "coincided with the re-institution of international flights and passenger sea transport.”

The situation – including the travel advice – appears to be changing rapidly in the Bahamas, so check with all relevant government agencies and resources before planning any travel.

COVID-19 snapshot

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What travel looks like in the Bahamas in 2020

“How do you feel about spirituality and remote nature?” Aminaa asks. My eyes are already wandering far beyond the city, where I can see the sun set behind brown mountain ranges in a mystical golden glow.

I arrive in Mongolia, the Land of the Eternal Blue Sky, in October. A friend recommended two experienced travel guides who would be going for their last trip of the season in the far north and Aminaa and her husband Khuyagaa meet me at the airport of Ulaanbaatar. Our travel plans: drive up north to the Taiga to make camp in the valley of their ancestors, meet nomadic families, ancient shamans, and trek towards the legendary reindeer herder tribes. The trip would take me to the heart of Mongolian culture and maybe even further.

Entering the Enchanted Valley

Darkhad Valley is anything but accessible. After two days of driving – three-quarters of which are spent off-road through rocky valleys and cow-grazed mountains – we near Tsagaannuur, the village on the shores of the White Lake. At the entrance of the valley stand shamanic totems, giant teepee-shaped cones made of colorful textile stripes battered by the wind.

By the time we reach the village itself, we have already passed into another world. We see mirror lakes where waters cannot be distinguished from sky and snow-capped mountains loom before the horizon. Our host Tsendmaa welcomes us with a hot pan of horsemeat (organs included) and homemade flat noodles. I learn that horsemeat is consumed in wintertime because it generates body heat.

A large ger (yurt) has been set at the back of Tsendmaa’s house for guests. Sleeping in a ger is part of experiencing the nomadic lifestyle, although I will learn later that nomads don’t stay in gers all year round. This one has proper beds and pillows, extra blankets, and a big oven at the center that can keep us extra-warm for long hours spent chatting, cooking and sharing meals. It’s almost luxury!

Horse trekking with nomadic riders

Over the next couple of days, we prepare for our expedition to meet the Tsaatan, the reindeer herder tribe of East Taiga. We don't know yet if they have already left their summer camp but nevertheless we set out to our first stop, some miles up on a plateau. We meet Erdene and his wife Tuvshin, who welcome us in their home, a wooden cabin decorated with warm-toned carpets and blankets with traditional patterns. As usual, the central hearth serves as both heater and oven. It is where Tuvshin prepares the hot milk tea served to whoever enters the house. Traditionally, Mongolian homes are open to visitors any time of the day and milk tea is always ready to be served.

Finally, Aminaa and Khuyagaa get news of the reindeer herders; they are beyond the forest, reachable only on horse or reindeer. “The number one rule is to not make any brisk move. These horses are semi-wild and will get easily freaked out. The best thing to do is to entrust them with your way, for they know theirs across the Taiga,” we’re told.

I am given an experienced horse. We must get used to each other if we are to cross forests, slippery riverbeds and marshes together. Six of us, plus a horse carrying our equipment, set out in the direction of the reindeer herders' settlement.

Meeting the reindeer herders of East Taiga

The trek to the camp lasts four to five hours. Followed by Tuvshin’s dogs, we ride across forests that are slowly losing their fall colors and turning darker. Yet the eternal blue sky above our heads gives the vast landscapes a warm protective atmosphere. I am silently musing about the magnificence of the nature around us when I see a vision from a fairy tale: a rider is emerging from behind the trees, a few meters away, mounted on a tall reindeer with huge antlers. My heart skips a beat: this is a dream straight from my childhood.

We finally reach the bottom of the valley and on the other bank of the frozen river, the herders’ teepees become visible through the branches. Young reindeer are tied to wooden logs to keep them from running away and when we approach them to play, they happily stroke their antlers on our arms and legs. It’s the time of year where they’re losing their antler skin, so they calm the itchiness by stroking against whatever they can find.

As the sun sets over the teepees, the adult reindeer head back to camp with their herders. Some reindeer have huge antlers and the golden sunbeams pierce between them. I feel I have been waiting all my life for such a moment with the majestic animals. Quietly, they lie down on the ground and look at us peacefully.

The next day, nothing makes me happier than mounting a reindeer and covering my hands with salt, so that they come close and lick my palms: salt is like sugar to them, they love it. My guides are already joking about marrying me to a reindeer herder!

I spend the rest of the trip in northern Mongolia with a smile on my face. I can’t start to describe how privileged I felt to travel and discover such a unique, rough, yet hospitable lifestyle with insiders. It’s a life that is disappearing with climate change as the reindeer find less and less food in the Taiga. Mongolians forecast that in less than two generations, these tribes will no longer exist.

As we leave the enchanted valley in the car that drives back to Ulaanbaataar, my traveler’s heart is filled with happiness and wonder. I even find myself thinking that if I had to stop traveling now, I would gladly accept it because with this journey to what seems like the end of the world, I could sense that I had seen and felt it all. I can gladly go home.

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This trip was taken before the COVID-19 pandemic. Always check local travel restrictions before booking a trip and follow government health advice.

A journey to meet the reindeer tribe of northern Mongolia

New Zealand is justifiably famous for its Great Walks and other multi-day hiking trails, but don’t break out the cooking stove and sleeping bag just yet. You don't need to commit to a serious thru-hike or multi-day trek to take advantage of New Zealand's famously stunning scenery.

Whether you're a local looking for a fun way to get outdoors or a visitor hoping to make the most of a short time down under, much of the same wilderness can be explored on day hikes. That means less gear, less effort, and quite possibly more fun – and certainly the ability to mix and match a variety of trails rather than committing to a single experience.

We rounded up 10 of the best day hikes in New Zealand for taking in coastlines, capes, volcanic cones, mountain passes, and scenery worthy of preservation in National Parks. All you need is a pair of sturdy hiking boots, a full water bottle, and perhaps a copy of Hiking and Tramping in New Zealand to keep you oriented along the way. Some are easy, some are spine-tingling, but all of these hikes are pure Kiwi magic.

Twilight –Te Werahi Loop

This five-hour loop (16 km/9.9 miles) provides a front-row view of the Far North ’s natural drama, starring powerful seas, shifting sands, shapely headlands and ever-changing light. The track is mostly flat and easy-going, as it meanders between vast beaches and coastal forest. Combine the hike with a pilgrimage to windswept Cape Reinga (its original, aboriginal name is Te Rerenga Wairua), where the swirling waters of the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet. Maori spirits are said to depart for the afterlife.

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Rangitoto Island Loop

Auckland ’s youngest but largest volcanic cone was created just 600 years ago in a series of fiery eruptions. It is an elegant island and beloved city icon, reachable via a short ferry ride from downtown Auckland. Hike up the modest summit (250m) for great views of the city, before wandering along the coast where hardy plants pursue their quest to populate the lava fields. Surprisingly, Rangitoto is home to the country’s largest pohutukawa forest – a type of crimson-flowered myrtle also known as the New Zealand Christmas tree. The moderate two-hour hike is 7 km (4.3 miles).

Coromandel Walkway

The remote and rugged tip of the Coromandel Peninsula is well worth the time and effort required to reach it, particularly if you soak up its superlative scenery on the coastal Coromandel Walkway. Linking Stony Bay and Fletcher Bay, the 20km (12.4 miles) track takes seven hours, with memorable views over the aptly named Sugar Loaf, Pinnacles and Great Barrier Island. A whole day is required to complete the return hike, or you can arrange shuttle transport with Coromandel Discovery.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Set amongst volcanic scenery made famous by the Lord Of The Rings trilogy, this crossing in Tongariro National Park is often lauded as New Zealand’s finest one-day walk and one of the best in the world. It’s no wonder, with its peculiar moonscape graced with steaming vents and springs, vivid lakes and vast ridges. The highly weather-dependent 20km (12.4 miles) walk takes between six and eight hours, although sure-footed types can add on a side-trip up the near-perfect cone of Mt Ngauruhoe (aka Mt Doom). Parts of this trek are steep and the weather very unpredictable, it might be best to sign up for a guided trip.

Medlands Beach to Anchorage

This 11km (6.8 miles) section of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track serves up several stretches of beach paradise, swathed in golden sand and awash with sparkling sea. The easy trail linking them wends through Abel Tasman National Park 's lush, ferny coastal forest with lots of lovely lookout points. Getting there involves a super-scenic boat cruise, and you can also combine your walk with a kayak trip. Another appealing option is to linger at idyllic Anchorage and make the side-trip to magical Cleopatra’s Pool.

Mt Robert Circuit

If bagging a summit is on your wish-list, this trail in Nelson Lakes National Park is a great place to start. It zigzags up the aptly named Pinchgut Track on to Mt Robert, with beautiful Lake Rotoiti in view for much of the way. If time allows and the weather is kind, the side-trip along Robert Ridge towards Lake Angelus is irresistible, and rewards with expansive mountain vistas into the heart of the park. Amble back down via the gentler Paddy’s Track to complete the four- to five-hour, 9 km (5.6 miles) circuit.

Sealy Tarns

Home to more than three-quarters of New Zealand’s highest mountains, Aoraki (Mt Cook) National Park ’s vertiginous terrain is generally more suited to climbers than hikers. However, a number of trails offer the chance to survey this majestic landscape, all starting from the excellent National Park Visitor Centre. Our pick is Sealy Tarns Track, and although it involves a grunty, two-hour climb, the ever-present views of the Hooker Valley and surrounding peaks should provide ample distractions.

Avalanche Peak

This challenging circuit track clambers to the summit of Avalanche Peak (1833m), which looms dramatically over Arthur’s Pass village. Views of the surrounding mountains, valleys and hanging glaciers in Arthur’s Pass National Park may well bring a tear to your eye, although that might just be the near-1100m ascent to the crumbly summit. This summer-only trip takes between six and eight hours, and it isn't for the faint-hearted. The steeper Avalanche Peak Track is the quickest way up, while the descent via Scotts Track is easier on the knees.

Charming Creek Walkway

One of the best day-walks on the West Coast, the Charming Creek Walkway is an all-weather trail following an old coal railway line through the Ngakawau River gorge. Along its length (about six hours return) are rusty relics, tunnels, a suspension bridge, fascinating geological formations, and the mighty Mangatini Falls. The walkway is also an excellent mountain bike ride. Ask locals about transport to avoid retracing your steps.

Editor's note: Parts of the Charming Creek Walkway have been closed due to rock slides. The Ruston and Hornsby Loop is open, while Mangatini Falls can be reached from the Seddonville car park. Check the New Zealand Department of Conservation website for the latest info.

Key Summit

This three-hour return hike offers a taste of the Routeburn Track, arguably the most scenic of New Zealand’s Great Walks. Starting from the Milford Sound Road, it climbs steadily beyond the bushline, into an alpine wonderland of tarns, sphagnum bogs, stunted beech trees and spiky dracophyllum plants. The summit walkway affords panoramic views of Fiordland National Park' s mountains, valleys and waterfalls, and completes the picture with interpretive displays explaining how this spectacular landscape was formed.

Editor's note: Due to flooding in February 2020, the Routeburn Track is closed. See the New Zealand Department of Conservation website for the latest info.

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New Zealand's most scenic day hikes

While Italy 's natural wonders are well documented, it isn't until you strike out into the wild mountains and trek along its vertiginous coastlines that you realise how bella this country really is.

From the cliff-hanging trails of Amalfi to the colossal granite spires of the Dolomites, volcano climbs in Sicily to hikes deep into the heart of the flower-freckled Apennines – Italy is a boot made for walking. Here are seven of the country's best hikes, with info on how to tackle them. Travel for tourism is currently permitted in Italy, but be sure to check the latest information before departure.

Sella-Herbetet Traverse, Gran Paradiso, Piedmont

Start/end: Valnontey | Length: 20.5km | Duration: 9½–10 hours | Difficulty: demanding

The Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso in the Graian Alps is a staggering wilderness of jewel-colored lakes, forests and some of Italy's highest mountains, including its eponymous 4061m peak. This classic one-day hike takes you right to its heart. From the town bridge in Valnontey, the Alta Via 2 leads on an old mule trail uphill to 2588m Rifugio Sella, a former hunting lodge of King Vittorio Emanuele II. Between here and Casolari dell'Herbetet, a park ranger's base to the south, hikers will find a short, airy traverse with a length of chain for protection.

The day's ascent is 1180m and the trip is virtually downhill all the way back to the village from the casolari.  The views across the valley are simply breathtaking: spiky peaks, small glaciers lining the eastern skyline, and the mighty Ghiacciaio Tribolazioni below Gran Paradiso itself. Herds of ibex and chamois graze peacefully on steep patches of grass and you should also hear and see marmots. Only tackle this one on a clear day – you’ll need to be surefooted and have a head for heights.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites

Start/end: Rifugio Auronzo | Length: 9.5km | Duration: three to four hours | Difficulty: moderate

Madre Natura was generous with Italy in the looks department, but she surpassed herself in the Dolomites. The cloud-scraping spires and limestone towers that fling up above meadows, lakes and spruce forests in the country's northeast offer some of Europe's most compelling walking country. If you're going to do just one day hike here, make it the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Circuit in the Parco Naturale Tre Cime.

The trail weaves to Rifugio Lavaredo, then climbs up to Forcella di Lavaredo (2454m) with pop-up views of the Tre Cime – a trilogy of photogenic peaks shaped like bishops' mitres, before heading on to Rifugio Locatelli and back to Rifugio Auronzo (bar and restaurant only in 2020). Get an early start to appreciate the trail at its silent best (it can get busy, especially during the summer months) and avoid afternoon thunderstorms. Access the route via the toll road from Misurina (€30).

Sentiero degli Dei, Amalfi Coast

Start: Positano | End: Praiano | Length: 8km | Duration: 4½ hours | Difficulty: easy–moderate

True to its name, the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) presents a heavenly canvas of southern Italian landscapes, with tremendous views of the rugged, densely wooded Lattari mountains that swoop down to the glittering Mediterranean and distant glimpses of Capri.

Following an elevated, often rocky mule trail linking Positano to Praiano, the path unzips some of the area's least-developed countryside. You'll traipse past terraced hillsides, lemon orchards and macchia (scrub) of rosemary and holm oaks. A flight of 1500 steps unfurls down to Arienzo, where you can pause for a refreshing dip. Pack a picnic and grab a map of the walk from local tourist offices.

Corno Grande, Abruzzo

Start/end: Main car park at Campo Imperatore | Length: 9km | Duration: five to seven hours | Difficulty: moderate (normal route), demanding (direct route)

Presiding over the jagged rockscapes of the Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga, one of Italy's largest national parks, 2192m Corno Grande ("Big Horn") is the highest peak in the Apennines. Take the via normale (normal route): it's a surprisingly straightforward climb along moraine-streaked slopes to the summit with some easy scrambling on the final leg. The peak provides travelers with mesmerizing views of the rippling mountain range and the Adriatic, a distant glimmer on the horizon, as well as tantalizing glimpses of Europe's southernmost glacier, the Calderone.

Experienced hikers can choose the alternative ascent that zigzags directly to the summit, a much tougher climb. In the quiet of early morning or late afternoon, you might spot a nimble-footed chamois or a royal eagle wheeling overhead. The best window for this hike is from early June to late September when the mountain is free of snow.

Sentiero Azzurro, Cinque Terre

Start/end: check ahead to see which sections are open | Duration: three to four hours | Difficulty: easy–moderate

Yes, Cinque Terre really is as jaw-dropping as the photos you’ve seen. The five preposterously perched fishing villages in ice-cream colors look as though they’ll topple off the cliffside with the merest puff of wind. The Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail, marked No. 2 on maps) used to string them all together, teetering past vines, olive groves and terraced hillsides, hugging the contour of the coastline cliffs along the sapphire Ligurian Sea but, due to landslides, some sections of the route are currently inaccessible.

The route is best walked east to west, from Riomaggiore to Monterosso, but with parts of the trail closed until at least 2021, be sure to check the the official website before departure. You'll also need to purchase a Cinque Terre Card (€7.50 for one day), which gives you access to the national park and use of the facilities.

Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

Start: Pedra Longa | End: Cala Fuili | Length: 45km | Duration: four to seven days | Difficulty: very demanding

Often hailed as Italy's toughest trek, the Selvaggio Blu, or the "Wild Blue", isn't for the faint-hearted. Threading its way along the Golfo di Orosei on Sardinia's east coast, this is an epic, off-the-radar trek that requires mountaineering experience. Signs and water are desperately lacking, trail finding is tricky (even with GPS) and the going can be tough with abseils of up to 45m and UIAA grade IV+ climbs.

But it's worth it. The multi-day hike takes you along one of Italy's wildest and most isolated coastlines, with deep gorges, impenetrable vegetation, cliffs dipping up to 800m and unrivalled views of the Mediterranean. Old shepherds' and charcoal burners' paths weave past silent coves and dramatic overhangs. Unless you are familiar with these parts, however, you're going to need a guide.

Stromboli, Aeolian Islands, Sicily

Start/end: Stromboli town | Length: 7.8km | Duration: five to six hours (return) | Difficulty: moderate–demanding

The hike up to Stromboli 's perfect pyramid of a volcano, thrusting spectacularly above the cobalt sea, certainly has the wow factor. It's not every day, after all, that you get to trek up to a permanently active, smouldering cone. The most captivating of the Aeolian Islands, Stromboli is a whippersnapper in volcanic terms, only formed a mere 40,000 years ago. For nature lovers, the climb to its crater is one of Sicily's not-to-be-missed experiences.

The hike is as diverse as it is exhilarating, with wild capers and Sicilian broom lining the trail; it gives adventurers great panoramas over Stromboli town as well as starker, high-level elevation landscapes that contrast with dramatic sea views. Go at sunset to witness the crater's fireworks at the 924m summit as day fades to night, then hike back down to town by flashlight in the darkness. Authorities strictly regulate access – you can walk freely to 400m, but you'll need a guide (such as the knowledgeable guides at Magmatrek) to continue any higher. It's also worth remembering this is an active volcano – with a major eruption as recently as July 2019 – meaning this climb, though beautiful, comes with a level of additional risk.

Need to know

The best seasons for hiking are spring and early autumn, though the window is shorter in the Alps and Dolomites (late June through September). Bear in mind that most Italians holiday in August, so trails are at their most crowded and rifugi (mountain huts) are usually booked solid that month.

Most local and regional tourist office websites provide information about walking in their area. The Italian Parks organisation lists walking trails through each of the country’s 25 national parks. Tabacco produces a decent range of topographic 1:25,000 hiking maps.

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Article first published in November 2015, and last updated in July 2020.

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The 7 best hikes in Italy

There’s nothing quite like skimming across the open ocean or braving the rapids in a kayak. Whether you opt for a peaceful excursion or a more thrilling endeavor, there are plenty of spots to choose from. From Alaska to Antarctica, these unreal locations will have you going home with bragging rights, no doubt.

Editor's note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and always follow government advice.

1. San Diego, California

Kayaking off the coast of La Jolla can be amazing year-round, however, if you go from July through September, it’s extra special. That’s when leopard sharks show up in droves. Because of the nutrient-packed, shallow water and dense kelp forests, it makes a really great place for pregnant leopard sharks to cruise along. But, don’t worry, they are typically no longer than 4 feet long and are harmless. Not only do you get to see them, but you will also experience four microhabitats throughout the La Jolla Underwater Park.

Keep your eyes peeled for shovel nose guitar fish, dolphins, sea lions, lobsters and turtles. You can take an hour-long leopard-shark tour with Everyday California or opt for a sea-cave tour. Hike Mt Soledad after for views of San Diego County.

2. Makena Beach, Maui

Off the shores of Makena Beach, on Maui’s southern coastline, is a beautiful kayaking spot. Here, a series of underwater lava formations, created by submarine volcanoes, makes an ideal home for green sea turtles. Maui Kayak Adventures takes guests out to this area for a morning kayaking session and snorkel. Thanks to the clear, turquoise water, it’s easy to spot marine life like angelfish, moray eels, octopus, butterfly fish and moray eels. Keep an eye out for gorgeous red pencil sea urchins (they make for great photos), and stick around afterward for a beach cleanup. Keep your distance from turtles; these guys are endangered.

3. Antarctica, Cuverville Island

This is a bucket-list kayak adventure like no other. First things first: wiggle your way into a heavy-duty dry suit, thick gloves and booties to keep the body heat in. This will protect you from the 32°F (0°C) water. You are in the world’s coldest, driest, windiest locale, after all. Start paddling and soaking in your surreal surroundings. Penguins are easy to come by.

They hang out on the shoreline and hop from rock to rock, toboggan down the mountains, dive into the ocean and dart beneath your kayak. If you’re lucky, you’ll also spot Weddell seals lounging on the snow banks. You may also see crabeater seals, orcas and humpback whales. Overhead, it’s easy to spot fast-flying petrels, Antarctic terns and albatrosses with wingspans up to 11 feet. The only noise is the sound of ice chunks, called bergey bits, clinking against each other, perhaps some avalanches and the click of your camera. So, how exactly do you get there?

4. Alaska, Inside Passage

There’s nothing quite like sitting silently in your kayak as bears frolic on the shore, just 50 feet away. Here it’s not uncommon to come across sea otters, seals, sea stars, bald eagles, and pods of humpbacks. During whale season (Apr–Nov), you’ll see several in every direction breaching and flippering. The Southeast panhandle’s famous Inside Passage is home to moose, grizzlies and puffins, too.

5. Apopka, Florida

Visit Rock Springs Run State Reserve, about a 45-minute drive from Orlando, to paddle your way upstream through super clear, 70°F (21°C) water. On a warm day, it is the place to be. The only sounds around will be the rhythmic drumming of woodpeckers and the steady hum of cicadas. Make your way down the narrow canal toward a spot called Bonsai Bend where branches of hundred-year-old oak trees nearly dip into the water. Get Up and Go Kayaking takes guests through this picturesque area in clear kayaks, which serve as a gigantic magnifying glass.

Certainly makes it easy to spot otters and fish and they glide by. And in the surrounding forest, you can sometimes see deer, herons and egrets. It’s pretty rare, but every now and then a black bear may wander by. Check out Jacob’s Island where you can climb a tree platform and plunge into the water below. As you paddle downstream back to the entryway, consider climbing the tree and taking your turn on the rope swing. Pro tip: hit the springs on a weekday morning. It’s much less crowded then.

6. Galápagos Islands

Get to know the local marine life as you explore designated areas of Galápagos National Park. Keep a lookout for rays and sea turtles swimming along, marine iguanas lounging on the rocks and blue-footed boobies flying overhead. Just be sure to bring your snorkel mask and fins; there’s a lot to explore. You’re bound to see penguins darting to and fro, and it’s quite possible you’ll come face-to-furry face with the supercharged sea lions as they burst into a gentle swirl of back flips, leaving a trail of bubbles in their wake.

7. Vail, Colorado

Gore Creek, which runs through Vail Village, is known for its fun rapids. Check in with Alpine Quest Sports to rent a kayak and be prepared for some serious fun.

Even in the summertime, the water is chilly, so you may want to rent a dry suit. And if you aren’t up for kayaking, there’s always stand-up paddle boarding, rafting or SUPsquatching (a giant paddleboard that typically carries eight to 10 people).

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7 epic places to kayak around the world

Cohan Zarnoch remembers seeing the lip plates worn by the women of the Ethiopia ’s Mursi tribe in a photograph in National Geographic. She was seven years old, growing up in Ohio where her only exposure to the wider world was the magazine and World Book Encyclopedias.

“I said, one day I'm going to see that,” she recalls. “When we arrived, I stood there and cried. Who would have thought when I was seven that I would have actually seen this?” Zarnoch, now 54, has spent the last 12 years traveling with non-profit organizations, photographing remote African tribes along the way.

Based in Colorado, Zarnoch is also a surgical nurse currently working on the frontlines of the COVID-19 pandemic. She spent three weeks in April stationed in New York City, and is now in East Texas, where she’s nearing the end of a continuous 30-day stretch of 12 hour days, caring for COVID patients.

Before being deployed to pandemic hot spots in the US, Zarnoch traveled with organizations such as Operation Walk, facilitating joint replacement to those in need, and Primo Filters International, a non-profit she runs with her family, bringing clean water to developing countries – usually with her camera.

The mother of four loved photography growing up, and spent decades capturing her own children, but never entertained the idea of pursuing the hobby professionally. “I thought I could only be one thing, and maybe in my next lifetime I would be a photographer, because in this lifetime, I'm a nurse,” she remembers. But after a breast cancer diagnosis, she changed her mind. “I decided life was too short.” She also remembered the dream she had as a seven-year-old growing up in Ohio. “Once I was diagnosed, I said 'Oh my god, I haven't been to Africa yet'.”

So Zarnoch reached out to a non-profit, and 30 minutes later she heard back – they needed a photographer to cover their mission to Tanzania. Over a decade later, the photographer has worked with half a dozen organizations, either taking photos to help with their fundraising efforts, or running surgical missions, taking her to Africa, Peru, Panama, Cuba, and Central America.

Though she’s traveled all over the world now, her experiences in Africa stand out to Zarnoch. “You're just present in the moment – the people I meet accept you for who you are, and if you accept them in the moment for who they are, there's this great connection that you can't find anywhere,” she says. “We're so judged here. We have such cultural conformities, and I go there and they just allow me to be me. I don't find that a lot in the US.”

She’s photographed tribes in Ethiopia, Tanzania, Rwanda, and Namibia, among others, and her warm and vibrant portraits of members of the tribe, mostly women and children, reflect that connection between the photographer and her subjects. “I just smile and I wave – I want to talk to them, but I know I can’t because most of the time I don't have a translator,” she explains. “I play with the kids, and that helps me connect with the mothers.” The communication hurdle is one of the biggest challenges she faces in her work. “I want nothing more than to sit in the dirt and play with the kids and know their name and talk to the mom and see what life is like for them. What do they like? Where do they go?” Instead of speaking the same language, then, Zarnoch uses her camera to further that connection, teaching the kids to take their own photos, and showing all her subjects the photos she takes. “They've never seen themselves, they don't have mirrors. So I readily show pictures.”

Zarnoch says succeeding as a nurse and a photographer come down to the same thing: “I love people. I love helping people. I love connecting.” Both professions call for a high degree of empathy for others, and Zarnoch has it. “I didn't have a voice growing up,” she says. “I was kind of in that era where you were seen and not heard. So I feel like I'm giving voice to those who finally want to be seen or heard.”

The self-described overachiever says she’s not one to ever let the dust settle. “If I'm not running a mission trip, I'm shooting a mission trip. If I'm not shooting a mission trip, I work a few hours in the hospital, and if I'm not doing that I’m editing.” Zarnoch says her dream is to shoot for National Geographic magazine someday. With her track record, it seems likely. And as soon as the pandemic lets up, the photographer will resume traveling again – next up, Chad and South Sudan.

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See the incredible photos of remote African tribes captured by a COVID frontline nurse

There’s something quite magical about first stepping foot on Fraser Island . Stretching over 120km, this raw, rugged sand island – the world’s largest – off Queensland’s southeast coast feels utterly otherworldly.

With its wild untamed beaches, towering old-growth forests, crystal-clear freshwater lakes, and bountiful wildlife including Fraser’s most famous resident, the dingo, this Unesco-listed island offers one of Australia’s best wilderness adventures. It's currently open to visitors (as of August 2020) but there may be some restrictions on interstate travel. Please check local restrictions before booking a trip and always follow government advice.

Half the fun of visiting Fraser Island, which lacks sealed roads, is the challenge of driving in the national park. It’s for this reason that many visitors opt for an organised tour from the mainland. Travelling here independently, however, gives you the flexibility to explore the breathtaking island at your own pace, and cranks up the adventure factor big time.

The track to Lake Wabby is typical of hiking trails on Fraser Island © Sarah Reid / Lonely Planet" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings="{"image_style":"","image_link":""}" data-entity-type="media" data-entity-uuid="a890fc71-3330-4719-a3c4-ccddfe7ba9e3" title="Hiking trail Fraser Island">

There are two ways to access Fraser, located about 300km north of Brisbane. Most visitors take the Manta Ray barge that runs continuously between Inskip Point (which has a picturesque beachfront campground) and Fraser’s southern tip from 6am to 5.15pm daily. The 10-minute journey costs AU$130 return (per car) as of August 2020. Booking ahead is recommended.

The other option - aside from landing on the beach in a tiny Air Fraser Island plane - is Fraser Island Barges which runs less frequent daily services from River Heads (20 minutes south of Hervey Bay) to Wanggoolba Creek and Kingfisher Bay Resort on the west side of the island (both services from $180 return per car; about 50 minutes journey time).

What you need for driving on Fraser Island

Driving anything other than a 4WD with low-range capacity and high clearance onto Fraser is strongly discouraged. This isn’t to say you can’t take your SUV, but the likelihood of damaging the underside of your vehicle on the island’s bumpy roads or getting bogged in sand is much greater, especially if you don’t have much experience driving on sand. If your insurer doesn’t cover off-road driving, you’ll face a hefty bill to have your car towed off the island.

If you don't have your own wheels, there are also several companies in Hervey Bay that specialise in renting 4WD vehicles for touring Fraser. Rental companies can often organise necessary vehicle permits through the Queensland National Parks office for you, and help with ferry and campsite bookings.

What to pack for Fraser Island

For you:

There are several supply shops on Fraser’s east coast – at the main settlement of Eurong (which also has a bakery and a pub), Happy Valley, Cathedrals and Orchid Beach, all of which sell fuel, ice and basic supplies – but it’s advised to bring everything you’ll need for the duration of your visit, including water (for drinking and washing), medical supplies (there’s no doctor on the island), AU$2 coins for coin-operated showers available at some campgrounds, and extra fuel.

Distances between attractions might not look far on the map, but it is a slow, fuel-guzzling process navigating Fraser’s roads.

Campfires are only permitted in a select few campsites (outside of 'total fire ban' periods of course), so you’ll need to bring a suitable stove for cooking. Some campsites have refuse bins, but as the island lacks a recycling system, so plan to take your rubbish out with you. Personal portable toilets are a requirement at Coolooloi Creek and Cornwells group camping area, and are recommended for other camping areas without facilities. If you get caught out, bury your business in a deep hole.

Driving on Fraser Island is no easy feat © Sarah Reid / Lonely Planet" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings="{"image_style":"","image_link":""}" data-entity-type="media" data-entity-uuid="deef3a09-e797-4db2-b218-9b83578ba027">

For your car:

An air pressure gauge is essential to deflate your tyres for sand driving (check the requirements for your car in advance). No matter what kind of vehicle you’re driving, it’s worth investing in or renting recovery gear including recovery tracks, a shovel, and a snatch strap. Get your hands on a good map and ideally a GPS, as mobile phone reception is non-existent in some areas.

Before you set off, be sure to check the car’s oil and water levels. Also consider bringing a ‘mechanical first aid kit’ including radiator coolant, a spanner set, gaffer tape, a can of WD40, jumper leads, zip ties and a spare fan belt.

Where to camp on Fraser Island

The island has a handful of hotels and guesthouses (centred in Eurong and Happy Valley, and there’s also Kingfisher Bay Resort on the west coast), but many would argue camping is an essential part of the Fraser experience. There are 45 camping areas across the island with varying facilities. For those with small children (under 12) opt for one of the five campgrounds with dingo deterrent fences. Arguably the most picturesque is Central Station. As the name implies, the leafy camp is roughly in the centre of the island, and makes a good base for exploring inland lakes, as well as the Valley of the Giants.

Fraser Island's Lake McKenzie is just as idyllic as it looks © Sarah Reid / Lonely Planet" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings="{"image_style":"","image_link":""}" data-entity-type="media" data-entity-uuid="26f96d94-adde-45fe-b5dc-042f02b4a0dc">

As it’s not possible to drive on the island’s boggy west coast, most seaside campsites are located along the east coast. In the island’s northeast, Waddy Point is a crowd favourite. Sheltered from south-easterly winds, it’s one of the few campsites where fires are permitted.

You’ll need to book camping permits in advance (AU$6.75 per person per night); in peak periods, it’s also worth pre-booking spots at preferred campgrounds.

Dingo safety

Spotting Fraser’s iconic wild canines is a memorable experience, but dingo safety is paramount. While the sandy-coloured canines generally steer clear of humans, there have been attacks on Fraser, some of them fatal. Follow these tips to stay safe, while helping to keep Fraser’s dingoes wild.

- Ensure food is never left unsecured (lock it in your vehicle) and never feed dingoes. Fines apply for both offences.
- Don’t leave anything lying around an unfenced campsite that dingoes can chew though or tear at – even toiletries left in a tent can attract.
- Clean up straight after cooking and eating, and pour washing up water into a deep hole away from your camp if washing facilities aren’t available.
- Always keep small children, which can excite dingo attention, at arms reach. Running can have the same effect, so be sure to walk everywhere.
- If you’re threatened by a dingo, stand still and fold your arms across your chest. Face the dingo, then calmly back away (if you are with another person, stand back-to-back). Call for help, but wait until the dingo is gone before you continue on your way. Never run or wave your arms. In an emergency, call 000 or 112.

What to see and do on Fraser Island

Most visitors spend their days exploring the island by 4WD, either returning to the same campsite each night, or moving around every couple of nights. Unmissable activities include taking a dip in the vivid blue Lake McKenzie, and floating down turquoise Eli Creek. Just north of the creek lies popular photo stops including the wreck of the SS Maheno, and the coloured sand cliffs known as the Pinnacles.

If time allows, schedule a hike to Lake Wabby (a 4.8km round-trip from the east coast), and enjoy the pretty inland drive to peaceful Lake Birrabeen. Near Waddy Point, the rockpools known as the Champagne Pools are a safe spot for a saltwater dip. Ocean swimming is generally not recommended on Fraser due to treacherous sea conditions and shark activity – from Indian Head, a bluff just south of the pools, you can often spot sharks patrolling below. If you make it as far as Fraser’s northeastern tip, don’t miss the heritage Sandy Cape Lighthouse.

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This article was first published June 2017, last updated August 2020.

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