Immortalized in inky brushstrokes for millennia, China ’s mist-swathed landscapes offer some of the most evocative and spectacular hiking scenery anywhere in the world.

Whether you’re following in the footsteps of Confucius on the slopes of Mount Tai, marching between watchtowers on the Great Wall, or battling vertigo among the gravity-defying spires of Zhangjiajie, you’ll find jaw-dropping vistas at every turn.

What you won’t find so readily is meditative serenity. Hiking is booming in the world’s most populous nation, and some of the most famous trails have actually been pilgrimage sites for centuries. On many routes, you'll find heavy crowds and paved paths, steps and handrails running most of the way. But fear not; it only takes a bit of tactical planning to sidestep the crowds and carve out a slice of majestic scenery all for yourself.

Here are the best places to start walking.

Tai Shan, Shandong Province

Best hike through history

5.5 miles (8.9km), 5–7 hours, strenuous (unless you take the cable car)

A treasure trove of Chinese culture, Tai Shan is China’s most sacred peak for devotees of Taoism. The magnificent Dai Temple at the base of the mountain is the traditional starting point for pilgrims – don’t miss the enormous Song dynasty mural depicting the god of Tai Shan mountain making the sacred ascent. Now steel yourself: from the temple’s north gate, it’s a steady march up 6600 steps to the top.

The trek – also known as the Central Route – passes Buddhist and Taoist temples, cliff-face calligraphy and ancient legends at every turn. There’s so much to discover along the way that you might even forget how much your legs ache. The final, most spectacular stretch takes you through the painted South Gate to Heaven and on to the summit area. There are guest houses here if you want to stay and catch the sunrise, but cable cars and a shuttle bus back to the valley floor mean you can comfortably make it up and down in a day.

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Hua Shan, Shaanxi Province

Best hike for extreme thrills

3.7 miles (6km), 4–8 hours, strenuous

The sacred mountain of Hua Shan in Shaanxi, a famous destination for Taoist pilgrims, has thousands of steps, five granite peaks, transcendent views, and, if you’re in the mood for it, several gravity-defying diversions. The so-called Soldier’s Path climbs almost vertically up the mountain on shallow rock-cut steps, with only a metal chain to hold on to.

Even more thrilling is the Plank Walk, a path of rickety wooden boards, just inches wide, hugging a cliff face above a chasm dropping 2000m (6562ft). It’s said the route was first built in the Yuan dynasty by a Taoist hermit seeking self-cultivation. Thankfully, modern-day pilgrims get a safety harness and carabiners for the via ferrata-style ascent.

Gubeikou Great Wall, Beijing

Best hike for Game of Thrones-style ruins

9 miles (15km), 5–6 hours, moderate

Only a few stretches of the Great Wall around Beijing have been restored for tourists; the rest is wild, crumbling and remote, presenting thrilling hiking opportunities for the adventurous wanderer. For an easy dip into the Great Wall, consider the uncrowded and unrestored section of the wall at Jiankou rather than the busy restored sections at Badaling and Mutianyu.

For the full "wild wall" experience, the town of Gubeikou, once a heavily guarded pass into Beijing, sees the wall soaring off in opposite directions. The section climbing Crouching Tiger Mountain takes off like a rollercoaster with incredible views of other sections of wall racing away on distant crags. On the other side, Coiled Dragon Mountain offers a gentler climb between dozens of partially collapsed watchtowers, passing through rugged scenery all the way to Jinshanling, a recently restored section of the fortification.

Note that public access to the wild sections of the Great Wall isn’t guaranteed, so it’s advisable to go with a reputable company such as Beijing Hikers – they can share the latest intel on which sections are open to trekkers.

Huangshan, Anhui Province

Best hike to find your artistic muse

6–15 miles, 10–25km, moderate

Knotted by shapely pine trees, the mist-swathed peaks of Yellow Mountain (Huangshan), have long been a muse for China’s most esteemed painters and poets. For your own dose of inspiration, trek the scenic Eastern Steps up to the summit area – a 7.5km (4.6 miles) trip one-way – where you can stay overnight, recuperate and catch the sunrise at the evocatively-named Beginning to Believe Peak.

Afterward, strike out on trails that lead to fancifully named views like "Flower Blooming on a Brush Tip," named for a paintbrush-shaped granite formation towering 1630m (5348ft), with a lone pine tree sprouting out of the top. If the tour group scrums get too much, exit stage left by hiking the less-visited West Sea Canyon, a 4-hour loop covering 8.5km (5.3 miles) of hair-raising dips and ascents.

Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, Hunan Province

Best hike for otherworldly vibes

7 miles (11km), 4–6 hours, easy to moderate

This mind-blowing landscape of soaring rock pinnacles choked in subtropical vegetation is so otherworldly it provided the inspiration for Pandora, the alien world depicted in James Cameron’s hit movie Avatar.

The most famous trail at Zhangjiajie is the 90-minute path through the heights of Yuanjiajie, accessed via the world’s highest outdoor elevator (built into a sheer cliff face). Tour groups jostle for space to photograph the Southern Sky Column, a vertical pinnacle over a kilometer tall, before crossing a vertigo-inducing, natural rock bridge between twin spires 357m (1171ft) above the canyon floor.

Once you’ve battled through the crowds, you can descend to the relative serenity of the Golden Whip Stream, following a 6km (3.7-mile) trail cutting along the lush canyon floor, as rock towers, giant trees and wild macaques cavort overhead.

Longji Rice Terraces, Guangxi Province

Best hike to experience rural China

7.4 miles (12km), 4 hours, easy

This village-to-village trek cuts a dreamy swathe through the miraculous rice terraces between Ping’an and Dazhai, known as the "Dragon’s Backbone" because of their resemblance to overlapping scales. As you traverse narrow paved paths and raised causeways, you’ll have countless chances to photograph the swirling cascades of paddy fields draped over the surrounding mountains – weather permitting, of course.

Best of all, you’ll be far more likely to bump into local Zhuang or Yao rice farmers rather than other tourists. Engineered by hand over generations by farming families from the two villages, the spectacular rice terraces are at their best in May and June when the first vivid green rice shoots appear above the irrigated paddies.

Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan Province

Best hike in southwest China

15.7 miles (25km), 2 days (10–15 hours), moderate

A perennial favorite for backpackers, this famous route follows switchback donkey trails that skirt one of the world’s deepest gorges, rising almost 4000m (13,123ft) from the frothing waters of the Jinsha River up to the snow-capped peaks of the Haba massif and Jade Dragon Snow Mountains.

It’s a spectacular trek and best tackled over at least two days; lively guesthouses with gorgeous views and fridges amply stocked with beer line the trail. A dramatically steep detour down to the Middle Rapids is where you’ll find the Tiger Leaping Stone, the spot where, as legend tells it, a tiger jumped across the river – all 25m (82ft) of it – giving the gorge its name.

Ganden to Samye, Tibet Autonomous Prefecture

Best hike for serious trekkers

50 miles (80km), 4–5 days, strenuous

You’ll need all the appropriate permits, guides and pack animals to take on this trek between Ganden Monastery, founded in 1409, and the busy Buddhist town of Samye, with its own historic monastery dripping with murals and statues. Entry rules for Tibet are complicated and you'll need to make all arrangements with a licensed tour operator.

The route, within easy reach of the capital, Lhasa, crosses two passes above 5000m (16,400ft), taking in serene alpine landscapes, glacial lakes, yak herding camps and sacred sights. The undisputed highlight is exploring the two monasteries, which have been impressively restored since the ravages of the Cultural Revolution.

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These top hikes in China are sure to take your breath away

Renowned for transparent waters that gently lap the soft white sands, Barbados is the vision of Caribbean daydreams. But there’s plenty more to do on this culturally rich island than just lounging in the sun.

With first-class adventure sports, historical hikes, and dramatic caves to explore – along with a cracking nightlife and legendary rum distilleries that fuel boisterous festivals – there’s never a dull moment on Barbados. We’ve picked some of the best things to do to fill the days in one of the most fascinating destinations in the Eastern Caribbean.

Go horseback riding along the Atlantic coast

Without a doubt, one of the best vantage points from which to admire the rugged wilderness on the Atlantic coast of Barbados is on the back of a horse.

A top pick for riders is Bath Beach, where you’ll find golden sands, farmland strewn with boulders, clear running streams, and tracts of forest inhabited by cheeky monkeys. While the scenery is memorable, the highlight of a ride here is heading into the calm waters to cool off with your mount, the waves crashing into the reef just offshore and the sweet smell of the sea hanging in the air.

The romantically minded should try an evening ride to watch the Atlantic waters shimmering under the moonlight. For strong, healthy horses and wonderfully enthusiastic guides try Ocean Echo Stables in St John parish.

Sail the Platinum Coast

Barbados’ western shores aren’t called the Platinum Coast for nothing. The area extending north from Payne’s Bay past Holetown is home to some of the most enchanting stretches of sand on the island, not to mention extravagant villas of the rich and famous.

Visitors can get to know this flashy part of the country on sailing trips from the capital of Bridgetown, which make stops for snorkeling with turtles or exploring a reef or shipwreck. Many sailing excursions also include cocktails and gourmet snacks for those that want an A-list-style party. The Calabaza offers small group tours and serves a powerful rum punch.

Let loose at Crop Over Festival

To see Barbados really cut loose, plan a trip during early August to experience the climax of the island’s most important cultural event, the Crop Over Festival.

Tracing its origins to enslaved Africans’ celebrations to mark the end of the sugarcane harvest, the over 200-year-old festival has grown into a three-month marathon of concerts, performances, and parties, backed by a booming calypso and soca soundtrack.

The main event is the Grand Kadooment, a massive parade with 15,000 brightly costumed bands and dancers following trucks laden with speakers through the streets of Bridgetown. Mobile bars keep festivalgoers well-lubricated until the early hours.

Visitors are most welcome to join in the celebrations, but will need to register with one of the dozen-plus participating bands to purchase a matching costume and book a spot in the parade. And keep an eye out for Barbados’ biggest star – Rihanna – a frequent attendee of the annual bacchanal.

Indulge at Oistins Fish Fry

Barbados’ biggest bash takes place in Oistins every Friday night, when it seems like half the island descends on this little village in the southwest for the legendary fish fry. The winning formula is a simple one: fresh fish, cold beer and top tunes.

Dozens of little kiosks serve up everything from grilled fish (flying fish, tuna and swordfish) to shellfish to chicken to pork chops. (Whatever you order, and don’t forget the macaroni pie.) Wash it all down with a cold beverage or cocktail as you watch local musicians get the crowd moving. Competing sound systems ensure the party carries on long after the plates are cleared away.

Snorkel in the Carlisle Bay Marine Reserve

With five shipwrecks and a plethora of reef and predatory fish as well as a multitude of turtles, all in shallow waters, the Carlisle Bay Marine Reserve, just offshore from Bridgetown, is a fantastic site for snorkeling. Check out the Berwyn: this 70ft French tugboat sunk in 1919 and is now covered in vibrant coral that attracts a phenomenal array of colorful fish.

Most of the sites aren’t too far from the shore and can be reached via a relaxing swim. If you’re having trouble dislodging yourself from the lounger, many of the beach clubs lining the bay offer free transport out to the reefs.

Surf the Soup Bowl

Offering some of the Caribbean’s best waves, this heavy right-handed barrel breaks in seven feet of water just offshore from Bathsheba, the “biggest” town on Barbados’ sparsely populated Atlantic Coast. Even non-surfers will get a kick out of watching riders take on this powerful wave from the safety of the ruggedly beautiful beach.

For anyone wanting to hone their skills before taking on the Soup Bowl, the island also has great waves for beginners, such as those at Freight’s Bay. You can also sign up for a lesson at any of the island’s excellent surf schools.

Sample Bridgetown’s rum shops and street food

To get to know some of Bridgetown’s larger-than-life characters and take in some juicy town gossip, pay a visit to the rum shops of Baxter’s Road. Depending on how you define them, there are between 1,000 and 12,000 rum shops in Barbados, and these Bajan takes on the dive bar have been part of the country’s history for generations.

Inside, you won’t find much in the way of music, generally – but jovial conversations are guaranteed. Many rum shops sell homemade snacks, and even more treats can be sourced from vendors and little stalls that line the road.

Try the legendary Pink Star Bar, which stays open all night to serve traditional Barbadian favorites such as liver cutters (chicken liver pâté sandwiches) and steppers (fried chicken feet) to tipsy patrons.

Explore Animal Flower Cave

While the popular Harrison’s Cave in central Barbados draws the crowds, this seaside grotto in the craggy cliffs of St Lucy in the remote north offers a more island-style nature experience. The only way down the cliffs is via a set of stairs carved into a blowhole. Guided tours are available.

The first chamber has many shallow pools that contain the urchins that give the cave its name. Then it opens out to the sea through a diamond-shaped hole in the rocks that just begs to be the backdrop for a spectacular silhouetted selfie.

In the second cavern, you’ll find a 6.5ft-deep (2m) natural rock pool with calm waters cut off from the world but for the crashing of the waves below the narrow opening. Look forward to one of the Caribbean’s most magical swims.

Discover the food scene in Speightstown

Way up the west coast, past all the glitz and glamour of the Platinum Coast, unassuming Speightstown is a traditional seaside village that’s fast becoming one of Barbados’ culinary stars.

With little traffic and an inviting promenade, Speightstown has a dynamic dining scene that includes gourmet cafés like Juma’s and the Orange Street Grocers, alongside unpretentious pubs that serve hearty traditional fare like wharf-fresh flying fish and cou-cou, Barbados’ national dish.

It’s a great place for a stroll followed by a bite – but make sure to leave some room for sweet delights from the PRC Bakery, which churns out the island’s most perfect pastries. The coconut slice is the big seller; the off-menu currant rolls are out of this world.

Arrive early to catch the stunning Speightstown sunset.

Taste history at Mount Gay Rum Distillery

Since the world’s first fun was distilled on Barbadian sugarcane plantations in the 17th century, it’s fitting that the island is home to the world’s oldest operating distillery, Mount Gay Rum. Founded in 1703, the Mount Gay distillery in the northern district of St Lucy is famed for its blended rums. Visitors can observe the process up close during a tour of the facility, which covers both the history of the site and modern distilling processes.

Each tour ends with the tastings (nine rums on the Premium Flight Experience) – so eat a filling breakfast (think a bake and saltfish, or fried bread with salted cod). And don’t confuse the distillery with the modern tasting center in Brandons Beach, which is nowhere near as atmospheric.

Hike through Welchman Hall Gully

Barbados was once covered with jungle – until the British established an economy based on the cultivation of sugarcane, a crop that devastated the native ecosystem. Today, unfortunately, only small pockets of bush remain.

A good place to imagine how the island once looked is Welchman Hall Gully, a nearly mile-long cliffside path (1.2km). In addition to a resident troop of green monkeys, the lush site is said to be the source of Barbados’ best-selling export after Rihanna: the grapefruit.

The gully offers a family-friendly excursion, with a smooth paved path for strollers as well as rabbits and tortoises that keep young travelers entertained. Don’t miss the lookout on the way out, which affords one of the island’s most magnificent views. Through towering palms, you’ll see all the way to the Atlantic.

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Set within some of New Mexico ’s most beautiful landscapes, Santa Fe is a natural stunner.

It’s also a city dedicated to preserving the arts, culture and the natural environment of New Mexico, which can be experienced first hand in any of its 68 developed parks, 26 undeveloped parks and 170 miles of trails. These are some of the best parks in Santa Fe.

Santa Fe Plaza

At least a million people visit the historic Santa Fe Plaza every year, to enjoy the grassy square's trees, benches, gazebo and bandstand. In the summer, live music brings visitors and locals alike to the plaza for dancing, socializing and people-watching. Food and art vendors are also a common sight, and the plaza is surrounded by fabulous restaurants, shops, galleries, museums, as well as the historic Palace of the Governors, built in 1610. Now one of the world’s greatest centers of art and culture, many of the most important moments in New Mexico history happened on this plaza.

The word plaza in Spanish is used to describe the heart of a city, and this particular area has been the central place for gathering since the city was colonized by Spain in 1610. In 1917, five years after statehood, Spanish was banned in New Mexico schools bringing an end to its official bilingual status. However, the Spanish language remains prominent in the names of places, like the Plaza, and a unique Old World dialect of Spanish is still spoken in New Mexico, along with eight distinct Indigenous languages.

In August and September, all of these languages can be heard spoken on the plaza during the Santa Fe Indian Market, the largest Indigenous art weekend in the world, which is followed by the Fiestas de Santa Fe. The Fiestas were established in 1712 to commemorate the reconquest of Santa Fe. In 1680 the Pueblo people banded together in revolt against the Spanish in the only successful uprising against a colonizing power in North America. The revolt, which drove the invaders out of Northern New Mexico for 12 years, came after the Spanish Governor of New Mexico ordered several Pueblo holy men to be publicly whipped and executed on the plaza. The reenactment of Spain's reconquest has long been a point of contention between the Hispano community and Indigenous communities that view it as a glorification of genocide.

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The Soldiers Monument, the iconic obelisk at the center of the plaza, was a landmark for 152 years, but had long been a subject of controversy for the phrase on the north-facing panel that read: “To the heroes who have fallen in the various battles with savage Indians in the territory of New Mexico.” In 1972 the word “savage” was chiseled away, but the bad feelings toward what the monument represented remained. On Indigenous Peoples Day, October 12, 2020, the Soldiers Monument was toppled by Native American activists and non-Native allies using ropes.

Cathedral Park

Looking east from the plaza you will come face to face with the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis de Assisi, built by Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy between 1869 and 1886 in the Romanesque Revival style. Chiseled into the stone design above the entrance is a triangle with the Hebrew letters that identify Yahweh. According to most historians, Lamy had the letter placed there in thanks to the Jewish merchants who helped fund the cathedral’s construction. However, in 2016, the Albuquerque Journal reported that according to a history written by Floyd Fierman, a rabbi and historian in El Paso, TX, there was no evidence to support this theory, claiming instead that such inscriptions were not unusual in cathedrals in Europe.

Whatever the true history may be, the inclusion of Yahweh points to a larger history of New Mexico’s “crypto-Jews.” Upon a 1492 decree that all the Jews in Spain must either convert to Catholicism or leave the country, many accepted the baptism but continued to secretly practice their faith. By the mid-1600s, many of these converts, or conversos, migrated into New Mexico in an attempt to flee the Inquisition in Spain, ultimately dodging the attention of the authorities. After 500 years of secrecy, this history has surfaced in the media, resulting in a renewed interest amongst the Hispano community in reconnecting with their Sephardic ancestry.

In front of the cathedral, between statues of Lamy and St. Francis stands a statue of St. Kateri Tekakwitha, by Jemez Pueblo sculptor Estella Loretto. Kateri was the first Native American to be canonized in 2012.

Circle the beautiful cathedral grounds to the north and you’ll find a quiet, shady park with benches for a rest and trees that are ideal for reading a book under, particularly on a lazy summer afternoon. Here, too, once stood a statue that has become a thing of the past along, with the plaza's obelisk. The bronze statue of Don Diego de Vargas was removed by Santa Fe Mayor Alan Webber for “safekeeping” during a season of state-wide protests in 2020 against de Vargas, the man who led the re-conquest of Santa Fe, and who many feel committed acts of genocide against New Mexico’s Indigenous people.

Despite the removal of certain statues and monuments around town, the story of New Mexico’s colonization can still be seen in Cathedral Park. In the center of the park, the bronze Settlers Monument depicts a Franciscan monk, a settler family, and a Spanish soldier with Mary La Conquistadora rising above them.

Railyard Park

This walkable, award-winning outdoor space is one of the only areas in Santa Fe where the past takes a back seat to modern art and contemporary music. A quick, 7-minute drive from the Plaza on Guadalupe Street, past Santa Fe’s legendary Cowgirl BBQ, Double Take vintage shop, and Tomasita’s, purveyors of legendary New Mexican cuisine, is this new kid on the block.

Since breaking ground in 2006, this 10-acre park has hosted many free events throughout the years, including regular art markets, farmers markets and concerts. It has play areas for kids, complete with slides and water features. Railyard Park is beautifully landscaped with over 300 trees and is in close proximity to options for food, drinks and sweet treats.

While history isn’t front and center here, the railroad has played a very interesting role in New Mexico's history. The train brought folks from the East Coast into New Mexico, past many of the Pueblos. This contact with outsiders, who were eager to take home trinkets from the West, created a market for Native American artwork, and art forms like Pueblo pottery or Navajo jewelry were suddenly in high demand and Indigenous families were, sometimes for the first time ever, able to bring home an income.

Shidoni Gallery

While Shidoni isn’t technically a park and not technically in Santa Fe, it absolutely belongs on this list of the city's beautiful natural spaces. Located in the village of Tesuque, 12 minutes north of Santa Fe, this 5-acre sculpture garden has been capturing the imagination since it opened in 1971. There are many benches on-site and visitors are encouraged to wander the property and make themselves at home. Built on an old apple orchard, there are now over 100 artists represented and at least as many sculptures in a wide variety of styles.

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Argentina offers lively cities and tranquil wildernesses, majestic waterfalls and soaring mountains – not to mention wildlife-filled wetlands, glorious architecture and renowned steakhouses.

If you’re not sure where to go in Argentina, here’s our list of 12 places that shouldn’t be missed, from national parks blanketed with glaciers to vineyards in the shadow of the Andes.

Buenos Aires

Best for eating out

Sultry tango clubs and cacophonous football matches, beautiful barrios (neighbourhoods) and historic cemeteries, world-class museums and raucous nightlife – Buenos Aires has everything you need. Above all, the Argentinan capital is a fantastic place to eat out. Its parrillas (steakhouses) – such as Don Julio, named the best restaurant in Latin America in 2020 – serve the finest beef on the planet. But there is also a multitude of international joints, serving everything from Armenian to Peruvian cuisine, plus an ice cream parlour on virtually every block.

The Pampas

Best for experiencing cowboy life

The flat, fertile grasslands that cover much of central Argentina are known as the Pampas, dominated by the cattle industry and synonymous with gaucho (cowboy) culture. For an introduction to rural life head to the town of San Antonio de Areco, whose museum and annual Dia de la Tradición festival showcase all things gaucho. Follow this up with a few nights at one of the many estancias (ranches) scattered across the region, which offer horseriding, polo lessons, and traditional asados (barbecues).

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Buenos Aires province

Best for beaches

Argentina isn’t well known for its beaches, but the Atlantic coast south of Buenos Aires is dotted with seaside resorts. Although big, brash Mar del Plata draws the biggest crowds, there are several smaller, quieter and more appealing stretches of sand. They include the forest-fringed beaches of Cariló, Mar de las Pampas and Mar Azul, great spots for sunbathers and novice surfers alike. Although you can explore Buenos Aires province’s beaches by bus, hiring a car makes things a lot easier.

Iguazú Falls

Best for epic waterfalls

Shared between Argentina and Brazil, stretching for 3km (1.85 miles) and flanked by subtropical rainforest, this magnificent string of waterfalls is one of the greatest natural wonders on Earth. A network of trails, walkways and bridges run through the surrounding national park, allowing visitors a close-up look at the 250-plus cascades and cataracts. The centrepiece is the Garganta del Diablo (“Devil’s Throat”), a seething mass of white water that produces a deafening roar and sends up great clouds of spray.

Parque Nacional Iberá

Best for birdwatching

The hot, humid wetlands of this recently created national park in northeastern Argentina are home to more than 360 species of birds, including kingfishers, jabiru storks and roseate spoonbills. Dubbed the “Argentine Pantanal”, the reserve is undergoing a major rewilding process that is introducing rare or endangered creatures, such as red-shouldered macaws. Its reed-lined channels and lagoons are best explored by boat, from which visitors can also expect to spot an abundance of mammals and reptiles, from caimans to capybaras, the world’s biggest rodent.

Salta

Best for historic architecture

In the far northwest of Argentina, near the Chilean and Bolivian borders, this charming city is known as “Salta la Linda” (“Salta the Beautiful”). On the edge of the Lerma valley, overlooked by mountains, Salta is filled with historic mansions, churches, municipal buildings and plazas, some of which date back to the city’s foundation in 1582. It also has a varied cultural scene encompassing excellent museums and galleries – such as the Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña, which explores Inca culture and the practice of human sacrifice – and atmospheric folk-music clubs called peñas.

Mendoza province

Best for wine tasting

Argentina is the world’s fifth biggest wine producer and the industry’s heartland is Mendoza province. In the midwest of the country, close to the Andes, the region is carpeted with vineyards and wineries, many of which offered guided tours, tastings, accommodation, and even the chance to help out with the harvest. And while Mendoza is rightly famous for its malbec, plenty of other delicious wines – red, white and rosé – are also produced in the province.

Lake District

Best for stunning landscapes

Glimmering bodies of water, emerald-green forests, and towering mountains and volcanoes dusted with snow – it’s not hard to understand why the Lake District is a traveller hotspot. The gateway to this verdant region, the northwestern part of Patagonia, is the attractive lakeside city of Bariloche. Here you can pick from a wealth of outdoor activities – from hiking and mountain biking to kayaking and skiing – inside the surrounding Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi.

Península Valdés

Best for whale watching

The frigid waters off Península Valdés, a chunk of northeastern Patagonia jutting out into the Atlantic, teem with life. A breeding ground for endangered southern right whales, who arrive in their hundreds between mid-June and stay until mid-December, they are also home to elephant seals, sea lions and orcas, as well as more than 180 species of birds.

Accessed from the town of Puerto Madryn, this UNESCO World Heritage Site offers a variety of boat, kayaking and diving trips, though marine life can often be spotted from the shore. Further down the coast, 155 miles (250km) south of Puerto Madryn, Punta Tombo has South America’s largest colony of Magellanic penguins.

Cueva de los Manos Pintados

Best for ancient art

In a remote canyon surrounded by Patagonian steppe, the “Cave of the Painted Hands” has an enigmatic collection of rock art created between 13,000 and 9,500 years ago. This UNESCO World Heritage Site takes its name from the 800-plus stencilled outlines of human hands covering the walls. Red, white, black or ochre in colour, their purpose remains a tantalising mystery. There are also images of pumas, guanacos – a wild relative of the llama – and rheas, as well as hunting scenes. Guided tours are offered from the towns of Perito Moreno and Posadas.

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

Best for giant glaciers

Spanning more than 5,956 square km (2,300 sq miles) of iceberg-filled lakes, jagged Andean peaks and – most notably – an ice field of huge glaciers, this park in southern Patagonia is one of Argentina’s signature tourist attractions. The southern section – famous for the Perito Moreno Glacier – is accessed from the touristy town of El Calafate, while the northern part, a haven for hikers and climbers, is best visited from the rustic village of El Chaltén.

Ushuaia

Best for a sense of isolation

A famous sign in Ushuaia informs you that this is the “Fin del Mundo” (“End of the World”). The far-flung capital of Argentine Tierra del Fuego sits on the shore of the Beagle Channel, more than 3,000km (1,865 miles) south of Buenos Aires. It is the gateway to rugged Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, the world’s most southerly railway line, and several winter sports centres, as well as the embarkation point for cruises to Antarctica, just 1,000km (620 miles) to the south.

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Lapped by water on all sides, Istanbul had a thriving beach culture in the first half of the 20th century, but rapid population growth and urbanization have squeezed swimming spots out of the city center. Though there are still a few beach ( plaj) spots at the upper end of the Bosphorus, most opportunities to get into – rather than just gaze at – the water are either on the Black Sea north of the city or the Marmara Sea to its south.

In popular swimming areas, beach clubs ranging from simple to swanky have colonized much of the shoreline. They typically charge a daily fee for use of one of their şemsiye (umbrella) and şezlong (plastic lounge chair), though some have a minimum purchase of food and drink instead. Beach clubs have bathrooms, changing areas, indoor or outdoor showers, and usually some kind of cafe or restaurant. On weekend nights, some beach clubs turn into party spots, with DJs and dancing. The hot locations can change with each season, as can the names and ownership of beach clubs.

Another option is halk plajları (public beaches), which are free and sometimes offer basic facilities, but can be crowded and are not always in the cleanest or most scenic locations. In general, Istanbul beaches don’t compare to those elsewhere in Turkey, but if you want to take a dip while visiting the city, here are six of the best options in the vicinity.

Princes’ Islands (Adalar)

Best beach for a day trip from Istanbul

Tantalizingly visible from the mainland on a clear day, the Princes’ Islands (Adalar) off the coast of Istanbul in the Marmara Sea are one of the most popular day trips from the city, for residents and visitors alike. The four main islands of Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada and Kinalıada all have beaches – a mix of sandy shores, rocky coastlines, and wooden or concrete swimming platforms erected over the water – and an array of beach clubs. Head away from the ferry docks towards the sides and backs of the islands for more tranquility and better swimming water. Burgazada and Kinalıada have some particularly nice spots. A smaller island, Sedef Adası, is harder to reach by ferry, but its beach clubs offer boat service from Büyükada.

If you tire of sunbathing and swimming, you can stroll the islands’ car-free streets – ideally with an ice cream in hand – gawking at grand historic mansions and poking into small boutiques, hike up to hilltop monasteries with sweeping views or have a fish dinner by the waterfront. The beautiful ferry ride – from one hour to one hour and 45 minutes each way depending on the island you’re visiting – is part of the attraction.

Şile and Ağva

Best beach for a weekend getaway

In the far eastern reaches of Istanbul, the Black Sea towns of Şile and Ağva hug the rugged coastline, which is dotted with sandy beaches. Beyond the sands, both towns have ample activities, attractions and accommodation options to fill a whole weekend away. Şile has a historic mid-19th-century lighthouse and fish restaurants lining its harbor, while Ağva’s twin rivers wind inland from its beaches, past cafes, restaurants and hotels. You can go for a boat ride on the river or explore the nearby woods on foot.

Kilyos

Best beach for watersports

The Black Sea crashes onto sandy shores along the stretch of Istanbul’s northern coast west of the town of Kilyos (also known as Kumköy, or “Sand Village”). Strong winds and waves draw fans of surfing ( sörf) and kiteboarding ( uçurtma sörfü), with a couple of schools offering lessons and rentals. (Surfers also favor the rocky coast around Rumeli Feneri, farther east.) The same conditions, plus periodic undertows, mean swimmers should take particular caution and stay within designated areas, where the water in places remains at wading depth well out into the sea. Beach clubs in Kilyos range from family-friendly to see-and-be-seen scenes and are wildly popular on summer weekends and holidays, so expect a lot of traffic getting in and out of the area.

Çilingoz Nature Park

Best beach for escaping into nature

This forested reserve at the northwestern edge of Istanbul has a handful of beaches along its Black Sea coastline, including some in and around the small town of Yalıköy. Accommodations are rustic – think camping and bungalows – and access roads can be rough. Away from the beach, the 45-acre nature park ( tabiat parkı) has lakes, caves and waterfalls to explore amidst its beech, alder and oak trees.

Suadiye and Caddebostan

Best beach for urban sunbathing

On the Asian (Anatolian) side of Istanbul, the neighborhoods of Suadiye and adjacent Caddebostan have small strips of beach beside their shorefront parks and promenades. The cleanliness of the water and sand can be variable, but the proximity to the city center is hard to beat for a quick spot of sunbathing or swimming. Caddebostan has a windsurfing center too. Bicycle rentals are available along the shore, and there’s no shortage of places nearby to grab a bite or a drink.

Marmara Islands

Best beach for a relaxed family vacation

Farther away from Istanbul than the Princes’ Islands, but less busy with visitors, the Marmara Islands have a small year-round population as well as summer homes for Turkish families. Avşa Island (Avşa Adası) has the biggest selection of beaches and the most nightlife, while the beach resorts on green, mountainous Marmara Island (Marmara Adası) are sleepier. Marmara Island was an important source of marble in ancient times, and some relics of the Byzantine and Ottoman past remain scattered around. Numerous apartment and villa rentals are available on both islands, making them a good option for families or groups who prefer more space than a hotel offers or want to settle in for a longer, more home-like stay.

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A visit to Singapore is a glimpse into the future. From its modern and almost surreal airport to its eye-catching and ever-changing skyline, Singapore is the definition of innovation.

Even though the tourist-entry requirements for most nationalities are quite straightforward, Singapore is famously known for being a state of rules. What are the do’s and don'ts when traveling to the Lion City? Here’s our guide to entering Singapore, including what types of visas are available and the rules you’ll need to navigate for trouble-free travels.

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What you need to know about visas in Singapore

The visa requirements for travel to Singapore depend on nationality, the number of days being spent in the country and the purpose of the visit. As a tourist, citizens of 164 different countries can enter Singapore for a period of 30 or 90 days without a visa.

All citizens of the European Union, Switzerland, Norway, United Kingdom, Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, Japan and the United States get 90 days visa-free, while citizens of all other eligible countries can stay a maximum of 30 days without applying for a visa.

Travelers from a country that isn’t on the visa waiver list will have to apply for either an e-visa or a regular tourist visa, depending on their nationality. While e-visa applications can be easily done at any online e-visa provider and have a processing time of just one day, regular visas are a bit more involved, requiring travelers to get in contact with the nearest Singaporean diplomatic mission or apply for a visa through an agent.

How frequent and business travelers can enter Singapore easily

The Frequent Traveller Programme and the APEC Business Travel Card are two programs that allow travelers from certain eligible countries to enter Singapore even more easily.

On the one hand, the Frequent Traveller Programme allows travelers from Australia, China, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia, New Zealand, Thailand, United Kingdom and United States, under certain conditions, to use the automated clearance facilities at immigration – a process that significantly simplifies the entry process and helps frequent travelers avoid long wait times at peak hours.

On the other hand, holding an APEC Business Travel Card (ABTC) for Singapore is useful for business travelers, as they can visit the island without a visa for business trips for up to 60 days. The Singaporean ABTC is issued to certain business travelers who are citizens of the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC), among other conditions. Travelers can apply for this document online for a nonrefundable fee of US$100.

What else do you need when visiting Singapore?

All travelers arriving in Singapore as a tourist must meet the following entry requirements:

·        Valid passport (minimum validity of 6 months at the time of departure).
·        Sufficient funds to sustain themselves during their stay in Singapore.
·        SG Arrival Card

Unlike most other Southeast Asian countries, Singapore does not have a paper-based Disembarkation Card to be filled out on arrival in the country. Instead, all travelers (including those enrolled in the Frequent Traveller Programme) are required to submit an SG Arrival Card online, in which each traveler has to provide basic personal information, trip details and a health declaration – information that goes straight to Singapore's immigration officials.

A SG Arrival Card can be obtained via the SG Arrival Card app or at the official ICA website.

Finally, all travelers, including residents, who arrive in Singapore from countries with risk of yellow fever transmission must present a yellow fever vaccine certificate. Travelers who do not have a valid yellow fever vaccination certificate are liable to be quarantined – at their own cost – for up to six days upon arrival in Singapore.

Singapore’s new Visit Pass

As of October 10, 2021, all travelers passing through immigration at Changi airport receive an electronic Visit Pass (e-Pass) via email, rather than a passport stamp. The e-Pass contains details of the visit pass granted, including the maximum number of days and the last day each traveler is allowed to stay in Singapore.

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When it comes to finding a tropical paradise to please the knee-high crew, few destinations rival Fiji. This beachy playground is set apart from other island nations by the variety of adventures it holds, from snorkeling with manta rays to splashing around in jungle waterfalls.

So much more than just a beach, Fiji offers families an exceptionally kind, accessible culture and the opportunity to learn more about the earth and its seas. The islands have been attracting families for decades and wherever you go, you’ll be welcomed with a hearty “Bula!” by the locals. And kids from around the globe often form unforgettable bonds with the Fijians they meet and interact with – a walk to a beach or waterfall can easily turn into playtime with the kids from nearby villages.

Resorts of all sizes cater well to kids and will make sure everyone is comfortable and taken care of. So pack up your little ones and head to Fiji for an adventure they’ll never forget.

Famous Kids’ Clubs

Many resorts in Fiji have free Kids’ Clubs famous not only for being a ton of fun, but for their programs of activities based on Fiji’s culture and nature. Little ones can learn Fijian songs and how to meke (a dance performance that enacts ancient legends and lore). They can dress like a Fijian warrior and light the ceremonial torches. Other treats might include surf classes, paddle boarding, parasailing, fishing, hermit crab races and more.

Very young kids are often paired with nannies, while slightly older kids (6-12) are put into small groups led by an experienced “Bula Buddy.” This supervision leaves parents free to have their own Fiji adventures while kids form a special bond that will have them wanting to come back year after year.

Under the sea

Fiji is a perfect spot for young snorkelers and divers, with warm, clear water and abundant marine life. With coral reefs just offshore of many of Fiji’s islands, snorkeling is super easy and accessible for kids of all ages and abilities. For a step up, many resorts offer ‘Bubble-Blower’ courses where children from age eight can take their first underwater breaths. And when they’re ready for even more, strong swimmers as young as 10 can learn to dive in the nearby shallow lagoons – a forgiving training environment.

Most resorts offer kayaks and stand-up paddleboards free of charge; many have superfun sea trampolines. Banana boat and jet-boat rides offer squeals and hilarity by the bucketload. And with sailboat rides galore throughout the islands, what’s not to love? Plus many of the resorts’ kids programs foster a deep love and respect for the sea with a focus on marine biology and conservation. Children will learn how to protect the coral reefs and even plant coral themselves.

Land adventures

Not all fun in Fiji is found in the ocean. Waterfalls abound in Fiji and there’s almost always a cool pool to be found in which to swim, usually alongside local families. Perhaps the most fun is the Waitavala Waterslide on Taveuni, where you can slide down a series of slippery rocks in a cool cascade. Also on Taveuni are the Tavoro Waterfalls. They’re popular with local kids for swimming and jumping.

If you don’t mind getting dirty, the Sabeto Hot Springs near Nadi on Viti Levu are a series of geothermal pools where you can wade into silky, warm, waist-high (for grownups at least) mud. Sink into the thick ooze, then let silliness take over by getting into a mud-smearing and mud-slinging mess. Nearby, check out the ziplines at the Garden of the Sleeping Giant.

For other land-based adventures head to the Coral Coast of Viti Levu, where you can ride a unique bike on rails with EcoTrax Fiji. If you have an animal lover in the family, meet some of the archipelago’s magnificent wildlife residents at Kula Wild Adventure Park sanctuary, where you can even hold iguanas and snakes.

Places for families to stay

Family-friendly accommodations abound in Fiji, but here are some of our favorite places to stay when you have the little ones to think about.

The Coral Coast, which is Viti Levu’s south coast, features great beaches with easy access to the surrounding coral reef and lots of activities at the family friendly resorts. Check out the Marriott Momi Bay, the Intercontinental, the Shangri-La, or the Outrigger Resort for their exceptional Kids Clubs and other activities. Some even have special experiences for teens.

The Mamanuca Islands are easy to reach from Viti Levu and offer smaller resorts with lots of water activities. There’s also easy access to the famous Cloudbreak surf spot. Here you’ll find the legendary Castaway Island Resort, the recently renovated Plantation Island Resort, Musket Cove Island Resort – whose activities for kids put an emphasis on sailing – and the Fijian family-owned Malolo Island Resort.

Finally, Savusavu is only an hour away by Fiji Link, the nation’s domestic air carrier. It’s here you’ll find two of the best family friendly resorts in Fiji. The Koro Sun Resort is affordable fun for families and features ocean and rainforest adventures and a variety of accommodation types. And the luxurious Jean Michel Cousteau features 25 traditionally built bures and an amazing tree house for kids. They’ll follow sea-based activities designed by the famous oceanographer and led by an onsite marine biologist.

No matter where you stay or what you do, Fiji is truly a place where a kid’s feet never touch the ground.

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As the Ralph Waldo Emerson adage goes, “It’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey.” In the case of vibrant Medellín, getting to wherever you need to go is half – if not more – of the fun.

Medellín has spent years developing an integrated public-transit plan known as Movilidad Inteligente, whose many components have garnered worldwide acclaim. With a sparkling metro set-up, a gondola system rising into the Andes Mountains, modern trams, and (of course) swarms of old-school buses and cars crawling through traffic, you’ll have is no shortage of transportation options in the City of Eternal Spring. Here’s our guide to getting around Medellín.

Medellín by rail

Medellín is home to Colombia’s only metro system – and it’s a major point of pride for the city. Multimodal and seamless to use, the network often provides a memorable and picturesque experience all in itself. The Medellín metro setup encompasses above-ground rail lines, a gondola/cable car system (Metrocable), and a tram. In many instances, a trip may involve two or more of these modes of transport.

The rail system comprises two lines. Line A runs north to south along the spine of Aburrá Valley and the core of the city, with 21 total stations between Niquía and La Estrella. Line B runs east to west and has seven total stations between San Antonio and San Javier. The San Antonio station is where the lines meet. Regardless of where your journey starts and ends within the rail system, your ticket will cost a fixed 2,750 pesos. Tickets may be purchased at ticket booths at each station – but expect long lines for tickets as well as crowded train cars during weekday rush hours (7–9am and 5:30–7pm).

Medellín by cable car

The Metrocable system has transformed daily life for countless city residents, particularly those living in some of Medellín’s historically poor hillside communities. Today, the gondola system spans six lines and has approximately 20 total stations, providing residents with access to the central business district and the economic opportunities that come with it. The transformation of many of these neighborhoods (such as San Javier and Santo Domingo) have made them tourist destinations in themselves. And the sweeping views that come with any Metrocable ride make a gondola outing a must-do for any visitor.

The most popular Metrocable routes may be accessed from the rail stations of Acevedo (with lines running west to El Progreso and east to Parque Arví) and San Javier (with a line to La Aurora). Like a rail ride, a Metrocable ride will run 2,750 pesos – but requires a ticket completely separate from your Metro rail journey. If you purchase a Civica pass, discounts may apply to trips that involve multiple modes of transport. Note that if you take the long (and exciting) Metrocable ride to Parque Arví outside of town, a ticket costs 10,600 pesos each way from the Santo Domingo station.

Medellín by tram

For accessing points between El Centro and points east, the T-A tram line is the best bet. Locally known as the Tranvía de Ayacucho (Ayacucho Tram), the line boasts nine total stops between San Antonio and Oriente. If you’re in no rush to get from point A to point B, consider exploring the area near San José station, where you’ll find a park known as the Open Sky Gallery, which features street art by nearly 30 artists. As with the metro rail and Metrocable, a ticket on the tram costs (you guessed it) 2,750 pesos.

Medellín by bike

Colombia is a bike-loving country, which countryman Egan Bernal’s Tour de France win in 2019 only heightened. While the steep roads surrounding Medellín offer brilliant opportunities for mountain-biking workouts, stay aware as you pedal – and definitely wear a helmet when riding through the city. The city has more than 100 kilometers of bike paths, yet the right-of-way is rarely given to pedestrians – let alone bikers. A safe option for cyclists: every Sunday between 7am and 1pm, Avenida Poblado between Premium Plaza and La Frontera mall (approximately 7 kilometers) is closed to cars, and reserved for pedestrians, runners, and bikers. This weekly event is known as Ciclovia.

Medellín has a free (!!) bike-share system called EnCicla, with more 1800 bicycles available throughout the city at 100 docking stations. Non-residents need to apply for a membership, which can take up to three days to get approved. Once you do have an account, however, you can use enjoy unlimited free one-hour rentals during your trip.

Medellín by bus

Buses proliferate in Medellín. Part of the metro network, the two Metroplús bus rapid transit routes have dedicated lanes connecting the university in the west with Parque Aranjuez in the north. The two routes share lanes at either end of the line, separating into two routes in the center of the city and connecting with several train, Metrocable, and tram stations along their 27 total stops.

Beyond these routes, countless inner-city buses crawl along Medellín’s streets, with their routes and fares displayed in giant letters on their front windshields. For trips out of town, the North and South Terminals – operated by Terminales Medellín – are where you’ll likely be catching your ride.

Taxis and cars in Medellín

If you are planning a day trip outside of Medellín, a rental car could be a worthwhile option – though we recommend leaving driving in town (and dodging the city’s notorious motorcycle and scooter drivers) to the experts. The city’s plentiful supply of yellow taxis will have you covered if you want a point-to-point ride.

While you can easily hail a taxi on the streets of most Medellín neighborhoods, your hotel can order a taxi for you for the same price, if not cheaper. This approach ensures a fair rate and offers added security: your hotel may give you the license plate of your verified taxi, or a code to give the driver to ensure their safety as well. Even the lengthiest and traffic-filled journeys in the city seldom exceed 20,000 pesos (though however you arrange your ride, make sure when you get in that the taxi’s meter has been reset to 0). The ride-sharing app Uber is a popular option as well.

While traffic is almost always heavy in this city of 2.5 million, Medellín’s roads are busiest during the rush hours of 7–9am and 5:30–7pm. Whether you’re renting a car or in a taxi, count on a very slow, stop-and-go experience during these times.

Transit passes in Medellín

If you’re sticking to public transportation throughout your stay, a Civica card is a must-buy. The card saves you from waiting in line for a ticket before each ride, it’s seamless to use at entry points, and you can save significantly on intermodal journeys (such as a single trip that requires a train, Metrocable, and tram ride). The card may be purchased for 5,000 pesos at any metro station, works like a debit card, and may be reloaded with funds as you need them.

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On his first trip out of the United States since the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, Sebastian Modak takes the long way north.

The rain returned just as I crouched down by the curb to fix my fourth flat bicycle tire of the day. The sun was inching toward the horizon, casting a thick gray-gold blanket over the nondescript suburb of Montréal I now found myself in. “It’s not the bike’s fault — it’s bad luck,” I insisted, as my partner Maggie threatened to throw the tire in a nearby dumpster and call a cab. We cursed in unison, a steady crescendo of progressively more creative expletives, as the rain resoaked our soggy clothes and I went through the all-too-familiar motions of changing a bike tube. My cuticles bled as I struggled to push the tire into place with whatever strength I had left. Mosquitoes closed in as the clock crept closer and closer to sunset.

This largely improvised journey from New York to Québec by rail and bicycle wasn’t supposed to be a capital B, capital T “Big Trip.” I had always thought of those as the ones that required long flights and disorienting time zone shifts. They necessitated months of planning and the meticulous allocation of frequent flyer points. This, by contrast, had felt spontaneous. But after 18 months in and out of various lockdowns, crossing an international border also felt important. Doing so on a bicycle raised the stakes even higher. As night fell on the outskirts of Montréal and I climbed back on my now barely functioning bicycle, home felt very far away and this trip started feeling very big indeed.

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I can’t pinpoint exactly when the idea for this week-long bicycle journey first hooked onto my consciousness, but it had to be sometime in the long and strange summer of 2020, when I fell down rabbit holes imagining where I’d go if I could go anywhere. That’s when — in some dusty corner of a long forgotten travel subreddit — I stumbled on a mention of Québec’s Route Verte, the Green Route. The name alone lit up my imagination like some kind of real-life Yellow Brick Road. I envisioned rolling emerald hills, thick pine forests; a meandering bicycle path between two points that didn’t matter.

Then, a year later, as summer 2021 drew to a close, the US-Canadian land border reopened to Americans (but, incomprehensibly, not Canadians) and suddenly I could go. So, with about one week’s notice, I started poring over Québecois tourism websites, reaching out to long-distance bike touring experts and bouncing around Google Street View to better understand what this route, so fabled in my imagination, really was. I felt long-dormant travel-planning muscles awaken as I started researching how we would get our bikes to Canada and where we would go once we got there.

I quickly learned that the Route Verte is not a single A-to-B route. Rather, it is a collection of paved bike paths, wide-shouldered country roads, and gravel trails that spread across the province of Québec like cobwebs. In all, it covers 5300 miles, making it the longest network of bicycle trails in North America. Averaging around 50 miles a day for a week, we’d maybe experience five percent of it, at most.

Then there was the matter of getting to Canada, carless New Yorkers that we are. A nine-hour trip on Amtrak’s Vermonter train could get us as far as the town of Saint Albans, Vermont, 15 miles from the border as the crow flies, but 30 miles from it on the scenic route we decided to take. We skipped the roads dense with trucks to instead follow the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail, a dirt and gravel double-track trail that passes seemingly infinite cornfields and candy-red barns that look like they’ve been pulled out of the pages of a children’s book.

That first stretch was everything I have fallen in love with about cycling over the course of the pandemic: feeling the contours of the changing terrain beneath me and the instant feedback of effort and reward as I pedaled and coasted; the way I could move through the world fast enough to cover serious ground, but slow enough to let the passing scenery be more than a fleeting impression.

Eventually, we came across the first signs pointing the way to Canada, as if it was just another one of the small farming communities we had ridden through that morning. The sense that this could really be one of those Big Trips I missed so dearly intensified. There were scarcely any signs of life as we rolled toward the Canadian immigration checkpoint. If tumbleweeds flourished at these northern latitudes, there would have been a few catching the breeze. After a few minutes, an immigration officer emerged looking surprised to see us and beckoned us forward. There was the new normal of bureaucracy — vaccination card, proof of a negative PCR test, confirmation that we had submitted our information in the required smartphone app — and we were waved through.

Hello Canada, hello bike lanes

According to online maps, the Route Verte begins right at the border. Still, I didn’t expect the transition to be so drastic. Everything changed, just meters (yes, meters) from the border. Besides metric measurements of distance and speed, there were suddenly wide, clearly marked shoulders along the road. Posted warnings, in French, cautioned drivers to keep their distance from cyclists. The little green signs demarcating La Route Verte showed up at regular intervals. Slowly, one pedal stroke at a time, we made our way north, through Québec’s Eastern Townships region.

Day One on the road, starting in Saint Albans and ending in the ski resort of Bromont felt like an eternity – in a good way. On a bicycle the days stretch until minutes slow down; it’s like every day is one of those interminable summer afternoons from childhood, when you could experience so much by doing so little.

Day Two — Bromont to Montréal — was equally long, but far less enjoyable. Rain poured down on us in angry daggers. My tires became magnets for razor-sharp gravel and shards of glass. While adjusting the bags on my bicycle, I accidentally wrapped my entire hand around a wasp. Over the course of an hour, my finger swelled into a juicy-looking bratwurst. We rode on.

Americans love talking about how European Québec is: how you can enjoy cafe culture and cobblestones, baguettes and bistros, all without crossing an ocean. But, as becomes clear on a bicycle taking backroads, Quebec is still very much in North America. You notice it in the fast food joints and parking lots the size of small city-states. Just as you might hear the whisper of an old-time chanson playing from a tinny speaker somewhere in the woods, it’s drowned out by the approach of some tank-adjacent American pickup truck. You’ll find many quaint, family-run bed and breakfasts, but sometimes you’ll have no choice but to pull into the soulless Comfort Inn in a section of town dominated by strip malls. Still, after a full day of cycling, a bed is a bed.

A route within a route

La Route Verte started as an idea, spearheaded by Vélo Québec, a cycling advocacy and tourism organization. Developing the route — a mix of paving cycling paths, introducing protected bike lanes and wide shoulders, and providing clear signage — accelerated quickly in the mid-1990s. At that time, the Québec provincial government was looking for a major infrastructure project that could, as Vélo Québec’s CEO Jean-François Rheault described to me, “attract young people to the province and be beneficial towards society at large.” It was officially inaugurated in 2007, which makes it all the more surprising how little outsiders know about such a beautiful, well-organized piece of tourism infrastructure.

“In tourism, people tend to promote things people can pay for — ski resorts, adventure tours, cruises,” Rheault told me when I asked about why the Route Verte has remained such a secret, including to some people I met in Québec. “The problem is that the Route Verte is everywhere,” he added. We were sitting outside a cafe in Montréal’s Plateau neighborhood. A woman passed by on one of the protected cycling lanes, one child on a seat strapped to her bike’s rack, another being pulled along on a tiny bicycle of her own. “It’s hard to promote it as a single activity or a single good, but it’s that widespreadness that makes it so sustainable and so appealing. We have to do a better job of promoting it.”

Well, allow me. Besides the sections of the Route Verte that were drawn to avoid major highways — it often zigzags through country backroads and suburban neighborhoods — the route also incorporates about 310 miles of bike trails that predated the route’s incorporation. One of those, the P’tit Train du Nord, was our next stop after reaching Montréal. Running along a decommissioned Canadian Pacific Railway line through the Laurentian Mountains, northwest of Montréal, the 124-mile “linear park” is now a mix of hard-packed gravel and asphalt, all wonderfully car-free. It cuts through small towns and dense woodlands, never hitting breath-shortening hills. Bicycle repair stations dot the route, and cyclists are given priority at campsites. “Bienvenue cyclistes” signs — another Vélo Québec program — denote inns where cyclists can expect a safe place to store their bike overnight and a hearty breakfast to get them moving in the morning.

The infrastructure, which gives the adventure a leg up, doesn’t end there. A shuttle is available to bring cyclists and their bikes from Saint-Jérôme, a suburb within commuter-rail distance of Montréal, to the end of the trail at Mont-Laurent, so riders can experience the gradual transition from the wilderness of the Laurentians’ farther reaches, into the progressively more populated towns closer to Montréal.

Getting off the shuttle and beginning our ride, it was as if the prior day’s painful, rainy, bloody armageddon had been karmic penance for a day of gentle breezes and warm sunshine. Autumn had waited for us to arrive, too. The leaves seemed to change minute to minute, as summer ended and autumn advanced. There were tiny bursts of orange and red in between a blanket of green. Unlike the prior days’ rides, where moments of serenity were interspersed with the harsh reality of industry and auto shops, this was all beautiful. Asters and goldenrods lined the trail filling my peripheral vision with blurs of purple and yellow. In steady intervals, the treeline broke open to reveal glassy ponds and fields of wildflowers. Insects sang with a ferocity that suggested it was always dusk.

When the first drops of rain hit on that third day in the saddle, we didn’t mind. We rode on, eventually finding our way to Les Jardins de L’Achillée Millefeuille, a bed and breakfast near the tiny town of La Conception. Surrounded by trees, the collection of wooden lodges and herb gardens more resembles an enchanted grove populated by gnomes than an inn. The host — a human — offered me an ointment in a small glass jar when he noticed my swollen finger. I don’t know what it was but it smelled like a spa and stung when I applied it. The swelling didn’t seem to subside, but no matter. As the evening vanished to the sound of rain, birds and squabbling chipmunks, I couldn’t have cared less about my finger.

We covered the remainder of the P’tit Train du Nord in two more days. Along the way we encountered a father and son attempting to hike the entire trail; a group of 60-somethings from Ontario who may or may not have been swingers; and a trucker curious about what two Americans were doing at a roadside canteen in the middle of nowhere and dismayed at the unequal immigration rules along the border.

After a day of rest in Montréal, we made our way toward the border. Opting for a more direct route to Saint Albans, the transition back was jarring. The quiet farm roads, the funk of cut grass and livestock, the sound of nothing but our spinning wheels disappeared. In its place came roaring trucks, impatient SUVs and the very real worry that we were about to be turned into roadkill.

But we weren’t. And the next morning, bikes onboard, we were on the Amtrak Vermonter, rocking our way back to New York. We had traversed some 320 miles by bike and we could feel it in our tired muscles. There was something else we felt though: the satisfaction that comes from an adventure embarked upon and completed.

What makes for an adventure?

There has been a lot of talk about how the pandemic has rewired so much about how we travel. We’ve looked closer to home and beyond cars and planes — the so-called “bike boom,” for example, shows no signs of slowing down. We’ve been forced to take a hard look at just how easy it was to crisscross the world, just how simple it is to release planeloads of carbon dioxide and go about our vacation. Suddenly, with shifting regulations and risk considerations, we’re thinking a little more deeply about how, when and why we travel.

Sitting in the dining car of the Amtrak train, glimpses of the New England autumn flashing by my window as I demolished a microwaved pizza and an overpriced beer, a burgeoning thought came into focus. There are people who climb mountains, cycle across the world, or throw themselves into extreme conditions to test the limits of what they’re capable of. I had always considered that to be the pinnacle of adventure; what I had just done was something else, something softer. But adventure — where you find it, how you measure it, the risks you take to achieve it — is relative. Big Trips can happen in unlikely circumstances; your days on the road can be lengthened, the mundane made epic, not just by where you’re going, but how you’re going and what happens along the way. Big Trips can start with little ideas.

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