If you're traveling to France, here's a guide to understanding what the health pass is, where you need to present it, and how you can apply for it—wherever you're traveling from.

The health pass is compulsory across many places in France and indicates the holder is vaccinated against COVID-19, has recovered, or has tested negative for it within the past 24 hours. It's required of anyone over the age of 12, including residents and tourists, and is expected to be in use until July 31, 2022.

Applying for the health pass is a pretty straightforward process if you're a French citizen or a tourist visiting France who was vaccinated in a country signed up to the EU digital COVID certificate program. Visitors from the UK also have a relatively uncomplicated way of presenting proof through their NHS vaccination certificates. But visitors from elsewhere, including the US, Canada, and Australia, have to pay up to €36 to apply for a French health pass in designated pharmacies when they arrive in France.

Here's what you need to know about applying for it.

Read more: Visiting France with family? Children over 12 must now have a health pass

What is the health pass?

The pass sanitaire (health pass) indicates that the holder has been fully vaccinated against COVID-19 (in France that means one week after the final dose of a Pfizer, Moderna, AstraZeneca or Covishield vaccine course or 28 days after a Johnson & Johnson vaccine), or has tested negative in the past 24 hours with either a PCR or antigen test.

Those vaccinated with Sinopharm or Sinovac can also apply for a French health pass if they have had a single booster dose of either the Pfizer or Moderna vaccines.

Where do I need to present it?

It came into effect on July 21, granting the holder access to any leisure or cultural venue across France with a capacity of more than 50 people, including museums, galleries, theaters, cinemas, concert halls, exhibition spaces, nightclubs, discos, zoos, open-air festivals, sporting venues, theme parks, libraries, swimming pools, and tourist attractions like the Eiffel Tower.

In August, the health pass was extended to restaurants, cafes and bars (both indoors and outdoors), long-distance trains and coaches, domestic flights, hospitals, nursing homes, and large shopping malls. As of September 30, it's required of anyone over the age of 12.

French citizens can upload their vaccination or testing status to the ToutsAntiCovid app, or apply for a paper version with a QR code.

Read more: Do you need a visa to go to France?

How can tourists apply for the health pass?

If you're traveling from the EU or any country signed up to the EU digital COVID cert program, you can present your digital COVID-19 certificate or any approved European health certificate that documents your vaccination or testing status. The French embassy in Germany confirms that if the certificate issued to you appears with a European flag, your certificate is compatible and "will be recognised during [checks] in France in the same way as French certificates."

If you're traveling from the UK, the French government confirmed that people vaccinated in the UK can now import their NHS QR code into the TousAntiCovid app. They can also present a digital or paper NHS certificate showing their full vaccine status as it's now recognized by the EU's digital COVID certificate system.

If you're traveling from the US you must apply in person through a dedicated pharmacy in France when you arrive in the country. You'll be required to pay a fee of up to €36 (about US$44) for the service. However, it's important to note that not all pharmacies offer this service. You might find one easily in cities such as Paris, but as you can see from this map there aren't that many participating pharmacies spread out evenly across France.

When applying, you'll be asked to show your passport and official vaccination certificate (CDC card). The pharmacist will convert the details from that certificate into the French system and provide you with a QR code that can be scanned at venues where the health pass is required.

In the meantime, a number of tourist sites are accepting the CDC vaccination card from American visitors. The Palace of Versailles confirmed to Lonely Planet that Americans are permitted to show their CDC vaccination certificate for entry, and it has been reported that the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre are allowing it too but it is not generally accepted otherwise as a health pass.

If you're traveling from elsewhere, follow the same process that applies to American tourists.

Do I need a booster shot for a valid health pass?

French health secretary, Olivier Véran announced in November that the COVID vaccine booster shot program would open to all adults in France starting from January 15. He advised that people have up to seven months after their second dose to get their booster shot, otherwise they will no longer be considered fully vaccinated under the health pass system. This rule applies to French citizens and residents.

The situation for tourists has not yet been clarified. If you're traveling from an EU country and you are considered fully vaccinated under the EU digital cert program, you'll be able to continue to access venues with it. If you're traveling from elsewhere, the rules could change, but for now you should be fine provided you're up-to-date with your vaccine schedule. Lonely Planet has reached out to the French health ministry for further clarification.

Where can I get tested in France?

Testing is widely available in France in most pharmacies and medical facilities but you'll generally need to make an appointment in advance. Most pharmacies can do antigen tests for about €25, and PCR tests can cost about €45. When using the health pass as an unvaccinated person, your testing status is only valid for 24 hours (reduced from 72 hours as of November 29), which means you'll need to be regularly tested to enter venues. You can find testing locations near you through the COVID testing map.

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This is how international tourists can apply for a health pass in France

Ahh, Maui. So lush, so welcoming, so... full of cars. Yep, the Valley Isle is only 48 miles long and 26 miles wide, but it is hard to explore without a car.

Public transportation sticks to major towns, so you can’t get to Haleakalā National Park, the Road to Hana or ‘Iao Valley State Monument unless you have your own wheels or take a guided tour. Roads are often narrow and tight, and they are subject to frequent rains and winds, so cycling is challenging too.

The good news? If you don’t mind sticking to one small town or resort area, you can get around on foot or bicycle, or by riding the Maui Bus. Taxis and rideshare options work well for local travel too.

Top tip: as the local bumper stickers say, “Practice Aloha.” Remember that you are on island time. Slow down and dial it down a notch when traveling around the island. If you can't find parking at a waterfall on the Road to Hana, that’s okay. There’s another one down the road.

Car is the best option if you want to explore the island

The island of Maui is divided into five regions, each anchored by a town or small city. If you plan to travel beyond your region, you will want to rent a car. And unless you take a guided tour, you will need a car to visit Haleakalā National Park and to explore the Road to Hana (we recommend sticking to a guided tour for the latter to cut down on traffic congestion that has plagued the area for years).

There are nine international rental car companies at Kahului International Airport. A handful have offices in Ka‘anapali or inside different resorts. For a hybrid, electric, or biodiesel vehicle, consider Bio-Beetle in Kahului. Discount cars and motorcycle rental offices are scattered across the island. For an older car at a lower price, Kihei Rent a Car is a great choice. It offers complimentary rides to and from the airport.

The car rental market has always been tight and expensive on Maui, but the problem has been exacerbated after rental car companies sold off much of their inventory during the COVID-19 pandemic. Prices have dropped, but book your car a month or two in advance to ensure you’ll have one on arrival. A newer option is carsharing, which is available on Maui through Turo. The company has a wide variety of cars available. Mileage, pick-up instructions, and other details vary by host.

Look for road restrictions on your vehicle, especially if you plan to drive to a remote beach. Some of these can only be reached by a dirt road, and driving on unpaved surfaces may be prohibited. The tricky drive on the partially paved and sometimes rough Pi‘ilani Hwy through the Kaupo area may also be off-limits. Towing fees may be very high if you get stuck here.

Two-lane highways link most towns. Some may be narrow and subject to congestion at unexpected times. The main roads through downtown Lahaina and sprawling Kihei can also get very congested. Use the bypass outside of Lahaina or the Pi‘ialani Hwy in Kihei if you want to travel more quickly in either city.

It’s pretty easy to find street parking in Kihei and Kahului. Downtown Lahaina has street parking and a mix of paid and public lots. Check all signage about time limits and required payments.

Tip for beach parking: Resorts must provide public access to the beaches that front their property, Look for free parking lots near the public access points. In Ka‘anapali and Wailea these lots may be small and slightly hard to spot, but they are there.

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It's easy to get around on foot in towns and resorts

In most coastal towns and resort areas, it is easy to get around by foot. Sidewalks navigate the historic core of Lahaina, while paved coastal trails link resorts and condo communities in Ka‘anapali, Kapalua and Wailea. The downtown areas of Pa‘ia and Makawao in the Upcountry are also pedestrian friendly. Sidewalks border much of S Kihei Rd, which is the main drag through Kihei, but the road stretches for almost 6 miles. The Maui Bus runs along S Kihei Rd, with frequent stops, so you could hop a ride if the walk is long.

A bus service links major towns

The Maui Bus runs within and between major towns, but it does not travel to out-of-the-way locations like Haleakalā National Park and Hana. The public bus system is managed by Roberts Hawaii and currently operates 14 routes. The main routes run every hour daily, roughly 7am to 8pm. The Upcountry Islander and the Haiku Islander stop at Kahului International Airport.

A one-way fare is $2, and a daily pass is $5. Children 5 years of age and younger travel free with a paying adult. Buses come with front-load bike racks.

A free shuttle operates between resorts in Ka'anapali

The Ka‘anapali Trolley is a free shuttle that loops between Whalers Village, the Ka‘anapali Golf Course, the Fairway Shops and several resorts every 20 to 30 minutes in Ka‘anapali. It is open to the public and operates between 10am and 10pm, with a lunch and dinner break for the driver. Larger resorts may provide shuttle service to guests around the resort area and to nearby towns.

Taxis and rideshares run in main towns

Taxis operate in the main towns and tourist areas, but they are easiest to find at the airport and outside larger resorts. You may need to call a dispatcher to find one in most towns and cities. Uber and Lyft are also available.

Cycling between towns is difficult

Traveling from town to town by bike will be challenging. Major roads are often very narrow, winds can be strong, traffic can be heavy and there are many hills and mountains. Sounds fun, right? Getting around a town by bike is feasible, but there aren't many bike lanes. Kihei is an exception. The city is mostly level, and there are bike lanes on its two main roads, S Kihei Rd and Pi‘ialani Hwy.

Bikes are available for rent in resort areas and in most major towns. Look for them at specialty bike shops or at stores that rent outdoor and recreational gear. Some hostels, guesthouses and B&Bs may also offer bikes for rent or loan. A handful of rental shops offer e-bikes.

There are twice-daily flights across the island

Mokulele Airlines flies twice daily between Kapalua International Airport and tiny Hana Airport in East Maui. This option cuts a two-hour drive to twenty minutes.

Guided tours go to various destinations and cut down on congestion

If you want to experience the Road to Hana or the sunrise at Haleakala and you don’t have a car to explore Maui, consider a guided trip. Roberts Hawaii, which also operates the county-run Maui Bus, offers trips to Haleakalā National Park, the Road to Hana and the Upcountry. Valley Isle Excursions leads Haleakalā and the Road to Hana trips. Polynesian Adventure Tours hit Haleakalā, the Road to Hana, the ‘Iao Valley and small towns in the Upcountry. Tours also have the added benefits of reducing traffic congestion and providing local insight from knowledgeable guides.

Ferries go to Lana‘i

The Expeditions Ferry links Lahaina Harbor with Manele Bay Harbor in Lana‘i, which is part of Maui County. The one-way ride is one hour, and the boat leaves several times daily. You may see spinner dolphins year-round and migrating humpback whales in winter. There is no ferry to Moloka‘i.

Most transportation in Maui is accessible

All vehicles used on Maui Bus routes are ADA accessible. Buses have ramps available and a sitting area in front. One-way fare for passengers with disabilities is $1. Some major rental car agencies rent hand-controlled vehicles and vans with wheelchair lifts. Another option is renting a wheelchair-accessible van through Wheelers of Hawaii or through Wheelchair Getaways.

Bring your disability parking placard from home. Hang it from your vehicle's rearview mirror when using designated disabled parking spaces.

Several tour companies run guided trips to Haleakalā National Park in ADA vans. Make a reservation at least four days in advance to secure a spot. Try Roberts Hawaii or Valley Isle Excursions. It is harder to find ADA-compliant guided tours to Hana because the stops on the Road to Hana are not easily accessible and some ADA vans cannot manage the narrow and twisty road itself.

You can also download accessible travel guides from Lonely Planet for more information.

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How to get around Maui with or without a car: travel on island time

Among the arid mountains and landscapes of the Sonoran Desert lies Phoenix, the most populated capital city in the United States. Just beyond this desert metropolis sits its sibling cities and towns that make up the sprawling urban area of Greater Phoenix.

American Southwest culture can be found everywhere here, yet each of Phoenix's neighborhoods, plus the cities in its greater area, comes with its own distinct vibe – artsy, family-friendly and historical.

Here are Greater Phoenix’s best neighborhoods to explore.

Downtown Phoenix

Best neighborhood for culture and history

Skyscrapers sprout around Downtown Phoenix, where apart from the briskly walking office workers and university students, the streets are remarkably quiet.

Opportunities to delve into the city's many different cultures abound in this neighborhood. At the African American-run George Washington Carver Museum and the Irish Cultural Center, you can learn how each group has established themselves in Phoenix. Relax as you walk alongside trees, ponds, and Japanese architecture at the Japanese Friendship Garden, or visit the Heard Museum, which not only houses stunning Native American artworks but displays emotional accounts of American Indian boarding schools – a crucial part of American history to be reckoned with.

West of Downtown, seek relief from the heat at the copper-domed Arizona State Capitol. Here you can discover how the Territory of Arizona became the last state of the Lower 48 and learn about the historical impact of the bombed USS Arizona at Pearl Harbor. In front of the Capitol lies the massive Wesley Bolin Memorial Plaza, full of war monuments commemorating veterans.

Arizona State University’s Downtown Campus features the eccentric public artwork, Her Secret is Patience. Made of twine and shaped like spiraled summer monsoon clouds, it floats in the sky and sways when the wind blows. Close by, colorful, zany murals, perfect for taking photos with, are splattered along Roosevelt Street (known locally as Roosevelt Row.)

The Phoenix Hostel and Cultural Center hosts local social justice events such as political poetry readings and documentary screenings that raise awareness for women, people of color, and queer people.

Old Town Scottsdale

Best neighborhood for the arts

Old Town Scottsdale is a hub of artistic activity, containing the Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West, where Native American and Western artworks have been curated into collections that highlight the beauty and mystery of the American West. Nearby, you can take in unpredictable sculptures and architecture at the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art. Old Town even has a free trolley service so you can cruise through the neighborhood and check out the eclectic range of public artworks on display.

There's more further north – the legendary American architect Frank Lloyd Wright set up his winter home, Taliesin West, on the outskirts of Scottsdale, which is tourable today. It is a Unesco World Heritage site thanks to its historic influence on modern American architecture and the Arts and Crafts Movement. Wright also mentored an Italian architect, Paolo Soleri, whose earthy works (the most famous being the bells made of ceramic and bronze) can be found at the Cosanti Gallery.

At the Musical Instrument Museum, you can admire a collection of over 4300 musical instruments from around the world, including Vanuatuan tree trunk drums and Croatian bagpipes. You can even watch live concerts from one of the 300 seats at the museum’s theater.

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Downtown Tempe

Best neighborhood for nightlife

Downtown Tempe's Mill Avenue lights up at night with its many lively restaurants and bars and you can satisfy your shopping cravings at specialty stores here too. North of Mill Avenue, you can walk or bike along the oasis of Tempe Town Lake, where the city lights illuminate the water at night. Take a moment to admire the strange juxtaposition of a large lake at the base of desert mountains and shiny contemporary office buildings.

By day, join casual hikers as you ascend Oidbad Du’ag or ‘A’ Mountain, which is considered sacred to the indigenous Akimel O’odham and Piiposh. From the top, catch elevated views of Tempe Town Lake, glossy modern buildings and airplanes taking off at Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport.

South Mountain Village

Best neighborhood for sightseeing

Get in touch with the desert that Phoenix calls home by staying in the foothills of South Mountain Park, one of the biggest city parks in the United States. Drive up to Dobbins Lookout for a wide view of the Phoenix metropolis or hit the park’s many hiking and biking trails meandering through cacti, desert scrub and rock piles.

Mystery Castle at the base of South Mountain is filled with quirky family history. An eccentric Seattle businessman built it for his daughter in the 1930s, inspired by memories of building sandcastles with her on the beach, and now tours of the knick-knack-filled rooms are open to the public.

Driving through South Mountain Village, you’ll notice Phoenix’s vast canal system running parallel to the road, feeding many local farms. At the Farm at South Mountain, you can enjoy a stroll around the fruit and vegetable gardens and eat at the on-site restaurant.

Because South Mountain Village is a residential neighborhood, staying at affordable homestays is your best bet.

West Mesa

Best neighborhood for families

Mesa is the second most populated city in Greater Phoenix and West Mesa has a multitude of family-oriented attractions.

A variety of museums along Mesa’s Main Street are very kid-friendly. The Arizona Museum of Natural History features artifacts from ancient civilizations throughout the Americas and the towering Dinosaur Mountain with lifelike models that roar and move. Nearby is the i.d.e.a. Museum, where toddlers can engage in hands-on art activities in a colorful play town.

For the sports-loving family, Sloan Park is a must, as baseball fans can watch the annual spring training of the Chicago Cubs. Older children will enjoy the nearby Riverview Park, which features a massive rope climbing frame.

At Golfland-Sunsplash, families can cool off during the summer on the water park rides or tackle its miniature golf courses year-round. Five minutes drive away, Organ Stop Pizza is a great place for a family dinner with live music, as an organist leads an enormous ensemble, complete with theatrical special effects from flag displays to soapy bubbles.

As the world’s first Autism Certified City, Mesa has many attractions and hotels that provide accessible services for visitors with autism spectrum disorder (ASD). Such hotels include the Sheraton Mesa and Hyatt Place. and

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In longitudes where long johns are all but compulsory and rugged alpine regions where the snow tumbles down sideways, creative grizzled folk brave the cold to cut and chisel and craft chunks of frozen water into sparkling ice hotels, uplit overnight igloos and snow-covered villages for mere non-mountain mortals to sleep over.

We’ve trailed to the dark ends of the Earth to find the best ice hotels. Sub-zero hospitality has never been this cool.

Iglu Dorf – Gstaad, Switzerland

Built using traditional igloo techniques, but with tunnels connecting each of the 11 rooms, it takes around 3000 hours to create the Iglu Dorf hotel in Gstaad, Switzerland each winter. With breathtaking views out across the crucible of the vast Bernese Alps and its crown of fir trees, this slice of wonderful isolation can be enjoyed by up to six guests in a room overnight.

With a sauna and swimming pool just outside as well as homemade mulled wine and traditional hot cheese fondue, this is Switzerland in its purest mountain mode. Iglu Dorf also builds overnight igloos in Davos-Klosters, Stockhorn and Zermatt in Switzerland as well as on Zugspitze in Germany.

Icehotel – Jukkasjärvi, Sweden

First built in 1989 in Jukkasjärvi, Sweden, this is the original Icehotel. It’s crafted annually from 2500 two-ton blocks of snice (snow and ice) plucked from the vast meandering Torne River. At the end of the season it simply melts and the water returns to the river. But whilst it’s up, its shimmering catenary arches and individually-designed rooms with snow statues and ice artwork make it a startling imaginative triumph.

Located in northern lights territory, high up into the Arctic Circle, guests can also try husky sledding, snowmobiling and snowshoeing. For the artistic, there’s ice sculpting as well. Can’t wait for winter? The Icehotel 365 offers 20 suites, an ice bar and an art gallery all year round. Plus it’s run entirely on renewable energy.

Arctic SnowHotel – Rovaniemi, Finland

Rovaniemi 's Arctic SnowHotel is in Lapland, where Santa Claus kicks back for 364 days each year. Standing on the toes of the Arctic Circle, this part of Finland cycles through eight seasons, but it's the sparkling magic of winter that's most alluring: a calming white-scape of thick, crunchy snow; the swirling purples and greens of the northern lights; the excitable yap of huskies waiting to pull their sledges.

But hidden amongst these miles and miles of white wilderness is Arctic SnowHotel, a fully-functioning 30-room igloo that's built afresh each winter using ice from the nearby Lake Lehtojärvi. The bedrooms are built of snow and ice, as is the bar, the restaurant and the chapel. Snow saunas and outdoor hot tubs also help make the most of this winter wonderland.

Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel – Alta, Norway

Sculpted deep beneath the magnetic gaze of the aurora borealis, the world’s northernmost ice hotel in Alta, Norway, is also one of the biggest. Some 250 tons of ice and 7000cu meters of snow are used each year to freshly carve its 20 double rooms, three family rooms and five suites.

Located on the banks of the Alta River, a short snow sled from the Northern Lights Cathedral, the Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel also has uplit ice sculptures, an ice bar and even its own ice chapel for couples hoping to melt hearts. The beds have reindeer leather as a natural sleeping mat and sleeping bags capable of withstanding temperatures of -22°F (-30°C), but the sauna (no, not located inside the ice hotel) opens at 7am each morning. Just in case.

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SnowVillage – Kittilä, Finland

Created from 350 tons of crystal clear natural ice and 20,000 tons of snow, this extravagant SnowVillage in Kittilä, some 125 miles (200km) into the Arctic Circle, is crafted with the care and precision of a medieval church. Decorated with ornate ice sculptures that change year-on-year, each work is lit up in the swirling colors of the aurora borealis.

As its name suggests, this isn’t just an ice hotel. There’s a restaurant made from glacier-clear ice, a chiseled ice bar that gleams like a diamond and a beautiful ice chapel too. Each snow suite has been individually designed and brought to life and, yes, there are saunas nearby as well.

Schneedorf Igloo – Hochötz, Austria

The Ötztal in Tyrol is one of those striking Austrian gram-oramas: a sweeping valley of glittering chalets dwarfed by the brooding dark hulks of snow-covered schist and gneiss striding starward. But up here, nestled some 2670ft up the mountainside in the ski region of Hochötz, you’ll find Schneedorf Igloo. Beneath what looks like a fresh dump of plump white snow is actually a hotel with enough room for 44 people to survive a blizzard overnight.

The silence is rejuvenating at night as the temperatures drop and the constellations start to twinkle against winter’s blueberry-dark sky. Dinner is gooey cheese fondue and the on-site snow bar has enough potent liqueurs to keep guests warm until sunrise. Thankfully, the igloo toilets here are heated.

Ice Village Tomamu – Hokkaidō, Japan

Japan ’s only ice hotel is a shades-down dazzler. Surrounded by uplit birch trees, the exclusive genetically-domed igloo sleeps just two people a night on its stylish ice beds, with an outdoor arctic bath and a heated dressing room to keep their lucky bones warm.

Located at Tomamu in Hokkaidō, near the smooth wide runs of Tomamu ski area, the temperatures regularly tumble to -22°F (-30°C). That may sound like visitors are consciously choosing to be cryogenically frozen, but it also means that Ice Village Tomamu guests have access to an ice rink, an ice slide, an ice instrument room, an ice chapel, an ice bar, an ice sweetshop, an ice bakery and – you’ve guessed it – an atelier that only uses ice.

Hôtel de Glace – Saint-Gabriel-de-Valcartier, Canada

North America’s only ice hotel is in Saint-Gabriel-de-Valcartier, Canada, complete with ice chandeliers and hand-chiseled snow sculptures.

Hosted on the outskirts of Québec City, master craftspeople detail the igloo’s fine frozen furniture, gleaming ice entranceways and curved snow roofs each year. With hot tubs and a sauna under the stars as well as real fires in each room, no guests should go to bed cold. There are even real mattresses and an isolating bed sheet to ensure a great night’s kip. Hôtel de Glace begins it season in January.

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Snowhotel Kirkenes – Kirkenes, Norway

So far up the longitude meridian that there's only really Svalbard in the way of Kirkenes and the North Pole, this wonderful Norwegian snow hotel is open 365 days a year. In the cold, blizzard-blanketed winters this is reindeer and husky country: a quiet, isolated region endured by only the hardiest of creatures. But for overnight guests, it's a beautiful once-in-a-lifetime spot for a winter vacation.

Inside the plump hotel itself, artists bring each bedroom to life with snowy renderings of local winter animals like wolves and owls, whilst specialist ice sculptures that line the halls and ice bar area turn frozen water into glacial artworks worthy of Frieze Art Fair.

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Bozeman. Montana, is a year-round destination for outdoor activities, with terrain that will lure adrenaline and fresh air junkies of all ages. It's the main reason the town attracts so many visitors, and why so many people end up relocating to this natural corner of Montana full time.

The main draws for travelers are hiking and biking, but the stunning rivers and mountains around Bozeman offer everything from river rafting and horse riding to paddleboarding and extreme ice climbing. Even if you're just passing through for a few days, there's no shortage of things to do.

There are two main activity hubs near Bozeman. The Hyalite Canyon, southeast of town, is a playground for hiking, biking and family paddling, while the Gallatin Valley, southwest of Bozeman around Big Sky, is the place to come for rafting, horse riding, biking and fly fishing. Don't worry if you can't cram your equipment into the overhead bin on your flight; there are numerous places in town to rent gear.

Here's a guide to the best outdoor activities in and around Bozeman.

Float on the Madison River

On a sizzling summer's day, there's no better way to beat the heat than to rent a rubber inner tube, head east for 30 miles (48km) to the Madison River, and kick back on a lazy downstream float. The most popular stretch of river runs from Warm Springs to Black's Ford, covering 6.5 miles (10.5km). The only challenge is arranging a shuttle to get back to your car – and not running out of beer!

Madison River Tubing rents tubes for $15 a day and offers day trips for $30 per person that include tube rental and shuttles back to your start point (there's a $5 discount Monday to Thursday). For do-it-yourself trips, Big Boys Toys in Bozeman rents everything from paddleboards and tubes to canoes and kayaks.

Pro tip: bring a floating cooler of ice for cold drinks. Pack water, river shoes, sunscreen and a sun hat.

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Horse ride through sagebrush country

There's no more activity that's more quintessentially Montanan than riding through the rolling sagebrush and flower-filled mountain meadows on horseback. It's a dream for many visitors, and a daily reality for many Montana ranch hands.

Several ranches offer horse riding trips in the southern Gallatin Valley near Big Sky, as well as multi-day pack adventures in Yellowstone National Park, and past riding experience isn't necessary. You can even go llama trekking with llamas carrying your gear (trying to ride them isn't recommended!).

The 19th-century 320 Ranch, 12 miles south of Big Sky, offers everything from a one-hour mosey to a full day ride, with the option of dinner at a barbeque cookout or in the excellent ranch restaurant, plus overnight stays in the ranch's historic cabins.

Sunrise Pack Station offers half-day, full-day and multi-day horse trips in the remote northwestern corner of Yellowstone National Park, accessed from the Gallatin Valley, as well as riding lessons and wintertime sleigh rides from their ranch on the northern fringes of Bozeman.

Go whitewater rafting on the Gallatin River

For something with slightly higher thrill levels than a gentle river float on an inner tube, daily whitewater rafting trips run all summer on the pristine Gallatin and Madison rivers less than an hour outside Bozeman. Kids from six years old are welcome on most trips, and organizers take safety seriously.

The main whitewater action is on the lower Gallatin, thanks to the pulse-raising, class IV rapids known as the "Mad Mile." You can expect to get seriously wet here. The adrenaline rush varies according to the season: June's meltwater brings the wildest rides and flows then taper off throughout summer. A three-hour trip starting from near Big Sky costs $75 per person.

The Madison River offers an alluring alternative because it's a proper wilderness trip (other local rivers are flanked by roads). The rafted section traverses remote Bear Trap Canyon, with some rewardingly splashy rapids at the "Kitchen Sink," but trips are more expensive at $225 per person for a day trip.

Montana Whitewater and Geyser Whitewater offer a similar range of rafting trips and activity combos (for example, rafting with zip lining) on both rivers.

Take up fly fishing on one of Montana’s amazing rivers

If your idea of heaven is a gently riffling river, a box of dry flies and a wily population of hungry cutthroat, rainbow or brown trout, then you probably already have your eyes set on the blue-ribbon rivers that snake through the hills around Bozeman.

The Gallatin River is the closest fishing spot to Bozeman and is perfect for photogenic, knee-deep wades surrounded by towering canyon walls. It's where they filmed the fishing scenes from A River Runs Through It. Enough said.

The Yellowstone River in the Paradise Valley offers equally superlative fishing, with open scenery and mountains framing the horizon to the east and west. The river has several access sites and five camping areas on public land, though fishing from drift boats is more common than wading here.

Get advice on the best sections of river and seasonal choice of flies, as well as gear rental and guides, from Bozeman's many excellent fishing outfitters. Women can learn the sport on three-day, testosterone-free clinics at Montana Women's Fly Fishing School. Catch and release is standard procedure in Montana.

Ice Climb the Hyalite Canyon in winter

This might sound a bit hardcore, but humor us. One of Bozeman's biggest secrets is the spectacular ice climbing in the Hyalite Canyon, some of the best in the USA according to world-class climbers such as Bozeman local, Conrad Anker. Few things focus the mind like the crunch of your spikes and chip of your ice axe as you inch up a frozen icefall, and there are some 150 lines to test your skills.

The best time to try the sport is during December's Bozeman Ice Festival, when you can sign up for beginner (and more advanced) full-day climbing clinics ($150), with several aimed specifically at women, people of color and LGBTQ+ climbers. This is seriously world-class training, and it's rightly popular, so book several months in advance.

If these dates don't work, try the two-day intro courses run by Montana Alpine Guides. Lucky Montana residents can score an afternoon of ice climbing tuition free of charge. As a warm-up, consider honing your climbing skills at Bozeman's Spire indoor climbing wall; an intro class costs $30.

Cross country ski on sparkling powder

Nordic skiing around Bozeman is the perfect way to enjoy Montana’s powdery snow without shelling out for an overdraft-inducing ski lift ticket at a swanky resort such as Big Sky (though the downhill runs are impressive in their own right). You can even ski inside the city limits, thanks to the 43 miles (70km) of trails maintained by the Bridger Ski Foundation; Bridger Creek Golf Course is a good starting point for Nordic beginners.

Alternatively, head out of town to the Crosscut Mountain Sports Center for 25 miles (40km) of groomed skate and x-country trails ($25 pass), plus snowshoe routes and gear rentals. Experienced skiers can also tackle the wilderness trails southeast of town to Hyalite Canyon, South Cottonwood Trail or Mystic Lake.

Further afield, Lone Mountain Ranch in Big Sky offers perhaps the most scenic groomed trails in the region, though serious skinny skiers will have their eye on the Rendezvous Trails in West Yellowstone, where the US Olympic team trains each winter.

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While many visitors flock to Ecuador for its world-famous Galápagos wildlife, impressive Spanish-era architecture and traditional Andean culture, it also has some of the most wonderful but lesser-known beaches in South America.

Vying for attention alongside its volcanic peaks, cloud forest national parks and Amazonian rainforest, Ecuador’s 1390 mile (2237km) Pacific coastline doesn’t always get the time and attention it deserves. But however busy your itinerary, the oft rugged coastal shores here are worth seeking out, offering everything from mangrove forests, rocky outcrops and whale watching to watersports, soft sand vistas, and yoga retreats.

You’ll get a real taste of Ecuadorian life at the water’s edge too, with hospitality and great seafood at a host of low-key villages and towns that swell on weekends and national holidays when local families flock to la costa.

Of course, when it comes to la playa, the Galápagos Islands are Ecuador’s most glittering attraction, with white sands and sparklingly turquoise waters to rival any of the world’s most pristine beaches. But there are a great many, albeit less striking, coastal resorts near the mainland’s towns and cities like Quito or Cuenca, where you can take your pick between party towns, amenity-filled resorts or secluded spots backed by lush rainforest and abundant wildlife.

Hit reset with a few days at sea level and allow for some well-deserved hammock time or explore the coastline’s biodiverse hinterland. From Esmeraldas to Huaquillas on the border of Peru, the Ruta Spondylus drive is one way to travel the whole Ecuadorian Pacific, taking in the history of the reddish- and purple-hued sea shell, sacred to the continent’s pre-Columbian peoples.

Start in Esmeraldas and follow it as far as possible, perhaps to the very southern tip of Santa Elena peninsula, where a drier climate contrasts with the rest of the coastline’s generally humid one. Situated on the equator, Ecuador’s coastal temperatures don’t vary much, making it a viable year-round destination.

These are the best beaches in Ecuador.

Tonsupa is the best beach north of Quito

North of Quito sits the region of Esmeraldas, home to the coastal city of the same name, a busy air and sea hub for international travel. Wetter and wilder than the beach towns in the south, Esmeraldas is home to a thriving Afro-Ecuadorian culture and offers a different vibe to the country’s interior. What’s more, Esmeraldas has a string of beaches relatively near to each other that have everything an ocean-seeking beach-hopping traveler could want.

Tonsupa’s one of the region’s most popular coastal towns and a good option for trips out of the capital, Quito. Bigger than nearby Same beach, but less frenetic than its southerly neighbor at Atacames town, Tonsupa’s long, clean strand has hotels and apartments that overlook the ocean and a range of places to eat and drink. Relax and watch the sun dip into the ocean with a plate of shrimp ceviche and a Pilsener beer.

Súa beach is very family-friendly

Heading south from Atacames beach, the closest of all to Quito and a bit of a built-up party central resort, you’ll find the serene and family-friendly Súa beach and fishing village. With its calm waters and verdant backdrop, Súa’s a great place for swimming with little ones. It's even possible to go humpback whale watching in July and August.

Ecuador’s coastal lowlands rise from sea level to the western side of the Andes mountains, meaning there are numerous rock formations, islets that jut out from the sea and smaller mountain ranges along the Pacific. At Súa, green-topped cliffs create a scenic vista and a great place for taking dramatic photographs. But it’s not just a pretty backdrop – Súa’s home to seabirds and other wildlife, making this a natural haven for some quality downtime

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Playa Escondida is the best beach for isolation and nature

If getting away from it all is high on your agenda, you couldn’t find a more secluded retreat than Playa Escondida. Hidden away as its name suggests, this ecological reserve is a place that’s harder to reach than most of Ecuador’s beaches but served by Ecuador’s reliable national bus system – even if you do have to time your arrival and departure carefully.

Home to myriad species and a haven of biodiversity, accommodations meld into the natural background leaving you feeling that you’re miles away from any urban conurbation – a great option if hammock time and a good book are needed after the late nights in Esmeraldas’ party resorts, or if high-rise ocean resorts just aren’t your thing.

Mompiche beach has a laid-back vibe

A hinterland of lush, tropical rainforest makes Mompiche the perfect antidote to any busy itinerary, but with enough local amenities for the traveler in need of creature comforts. Head to the south of the Esmeraldas region for some downtime in this small fishing village, where quiet beaches attract surfers and backpackers alike.

With smaller accommodations mostly and cabanas to rent, Mompiche’s thatched beach huts add to the uncrowded and laid-back vibe, where sometimes the only sounds are those of the surf coming in. Get out and about and take a dolphin tour or travel the short distance by taxi then by boat to Portete Island for even quieter beaches, palm trees, and homestay-style accommodations, dining on meals like camarones apanados (breaded shrimp) or biche de pescado (fish soup). Nearby, larger resorts mean the area has everything for all types of visitor.

Montañita is the best beach for parties and surfing

If it’s a party you’re after, you can’t go wrong with Montañita. A longtime favorite with surfers and backpackers, this southwest town in the Santa Elena province is about 110 miles (175km) from Guayaqui.

While the shoreline pulsates with tunes that overflow from the beach’s bars and restaurants, Montañita is also a great location for yoga and is renowned as one of Latin America’s top surfing spots. If you’re in search of serenity or a little calm after the night before, get to the sands early and do your salutations to the sun before the party atmosphere settles in again for another vibrant night.

San Lorenzo beach is a great choice for water sports near Guayaquil

San Lorenzo is one of the best-known beaches in Salinas, part of Ecuador’s largest area of beach resorts in the Santa Elena region, with a yacht club, deep sea fishing trips, and a great area for swimming that’s protected from the wind and currents. Head a little further west though to its neighbor, Chipipe, and you’ll discover an even quieter, more family-orientated beach to while away an afternoon.

Try some arroz marinero and other local seafood. It’s another great spot for surfing and watersports like wakeboarding, while further up the coast Santa Marianita and Crucita are hubs for kitesurfing and paragliding.

Canoa beach is a prime spot to chill with yoga and surf

Canoa might just be Ecuador’s most chilled hangout and is definitely one for the yoga and hippy set, with dream catchers hanging from wooden street stalls and vans loaded with surfboards, ready to move on if the waves are better elsewhere.

Located in the Manabí area, southwest on the Pacific coast, the area stretches over 9 miles (15km) from San Vicente and is a perfect location with its thermal winds for trying out paragliding, with local hotels offering tandem instructor flights or professional equipment for experienced solo fliers.

Los Frailes is one of Ecuador's most beautiful beaches

One of Ecuador’s most beautiful beaches, Los Frailes in Machalilla National Park is a sweeping horseshoe curve of a bay, its blue waters ringed by yellow sand and set off by the lush greenery of the dry-forested national park behind it. Take in the views of craggy rock formations from on high as you trek through the forest.

One of the few protected coastal areas in Ecuador, the lack of buildings and infrastructure make it beautifully unspoilt and secluded, but you’ll need to take what you need with you, and plan for any pick-ups and drop-offs. Nearby Isla de la Plata, with its frigate birds and colony of sea lions, is often named a poor person’s Galápagos – more accessible and a lot easier on the wallet for those on a limited budget.

Tortuga Bay is the best beach on the Galápagos Islands

No list of Ecuador’s best beaches would be complete without mentioning the Galápagos Islands. Though visitors come here for the unrivalled access to wildlife, from marine iguana to blue- and orange-painted Sally Lightfoot crabs, these islands almost untouched by humanity’s hand since Darwin’s recording of their rich biodiversity, also have some of the most picture-perfect beaches you’ll encounter anywhere in the world.

The white sand and aquamarine shallows here provide the backdrop to abundant wildlife that will make you wish you could stay forever. It’s no surprise that Tortuga Bay in Puerto Ayora on Isla Santa Cruz often makes it onto lists of the world’s best beaches. One of the finest white sand beaches in all South America, it can be found at the end of a 1.5-mile (2.5km) paved walkway outside of the town, where marine iguana and other wildlife frequent its shores.

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The new Omicron variant of COVID-19 continues to impact travel as more countries tighten restrictions or expand entry bans. As we head into another period of coronavirus uncertainty, here's what would-be travelers need to know about the latest changes.

Just days after the potentially more contagious Omicron variant was detected by researchers in South Africa, the new COVID-19 strain has been identified in countries as far away as Canada and Australia. Though scientists are still unsure of where it originated and how far it has spread, the emergence of the new variant has prompted governments to tighten travel restrictions they had begun to relax.

New Omicron travel rules

Israel , Japan and Morocco have taken a particularly hard line against the new strain by banning all foreign visitors. The UK 's reponse was to reintroduce mask mandates and PCR tests for travelers, and a temporary ban on flights from several southern African countries. The ban was lifted after Sunday, but entry is limited to UK and Irish residents returning from southern Africa who will also be required to quarantine.

The US has not yet detected the Omicron strain but it has banned entry of any foreign national who has been in South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Lesotho, Mozambique, Malawi or eSwatini in the previous two weeks, and has advised US citizens against traveling there. However, returning US citizens or permanent residents can enter the US under the current COVID-19 entry rules when traveling from those nations.

Argentina now requires any passenger who has been in any country in Africa within the last 14 days undergoes mandatory 14-day quarantine upon arrival and present proof of a negative COVID-19 test taken within the past 72 hours. Non-residents will have to take out health insurance that covers COVID-19.

Australia has introduced a measure similar to the US, and will also delay the reopening of its international borders to certain eligible visa holders for another two weeks. Borders were supposed to open on December 1 but the date will be pushed out as scientists continue to gather more information on Omicron.

Canada is banning non-resident arrivals from South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Lesotho and eSwatini. Canadians or residents who have traveled through those southern African countries in the last 14 days must take a COVID-19 test and quarantine until they receive a negative result. "Canadians and permanent residents and those with a right of entry into Canada will be tested on arrival... they will quarantine until they get the result of a negative test," said health minister Jean-Yves Duclos.

Ecuador is also placing restrictions on travelers flying from or transiting through a number of African countries. It will also now request proof of vaccination from passengers arriving into Ecuador from the rest of the world, in addition to a negative PCR test taken within the past 72 hours.

The EU has proposed putting an " emergency brake" on arrivals from seven southern African countries, and most member states, including Ireland, France, Italy, Greece, the Netherlands, and Germany have already agreed to it. Spain has also signed up to the ban but has gone a step further by tightening restrictions on UK arrivals too; banning those who don't show proof of vaccination, after several cases of Omicron were detected in the UK in recent days.

India will update its rules on December 1, requiring that all arrivals complete an online form that includes a 14-day travel history and a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours of departure. Travelers arriving from "at risk" countries must take a second test upon arrival and quarantine at home or in their accommodation for at least seven days. Countries India deems "at risk" include the UK, New Zealand, Singapore, Hong Kong, Israel, Brazil, Bangladesh, China, Mauritius, South Africa and Zimbabwe.

Hong Kong has banned non-residents who have been in southern Africa, Australia, Canada, Israel, the UK and five other European countries in the past 21 days.

Singapore is restricting entry on arrivals from South Africa, Botswana, Eswatini, Lesotho, Mozambique, Namibia, and Zimbabwe. Any foreign visitors who have been in those countries will not be permitted to enter and returning Singaporean residents will be subject to a 10-day quarantine.

Switzerland has added more countries to its mandatory quarantine list, including Canada, Portugal, Australia, the UK, Israel, South Africa, Lesotho, Botswana and several more. All passengers arriving into Switzerland from those countries must present a negative COVID-19 test and quarantine for 10 days, regardless of vaccination status.

Thailand will ban arrivals from Botswana, Eswatini, Lesotho, Malawi, Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe from December.

Variant of concern

The World Health Organization (WHO) has labelled Omicron as a variant of concern and has said the "overall global risk related to the new variant...is assessed as very high", but has warned governments against closing their borders now that the variant has been detected in many countries. "Flight bans have been imposed on southern African countries, but so far only two have detected the new variant. Meanwhile countries in other regions have reported cases of Omicron," Dr Matshidiso Moeti, WHO Regional Director for Africa, highlighted earlier this week.

The variant was identified only on November 24, and there are still many unknowns. While investigations continue, the WHO is recommending that nations take "a risk-based and scientific approach and put in place measures which can limit its possible spread" and to " ensure mitigation plans are in place" to maintain essential health services.

"We don't know very much about this yet," Maria Van Kerkhove, the World Health Organisations (WHO) technical lead on COVID-19, told a media briefing on the new variant last Thursday. "What we do know is that this variant has a large number of mutations, and the concern is that when you have so many mutations it can have an impact on how the virus behaves."

As research continues, the WHO has praised South Africa and Botswana for quickly sharing information about the new strain so that governments could intervene early to take extra precautions to monitor and attempt to curb the spread.

“The speed and transparency of the South African and Botswana governments in informing the world of the new variant is to be commended. WHO stands with African countries which had the courage to boldly share life-saving public health information, helping protect the world against the spread of COVID-19," said Dr Moeti.

For more information on COVID-19 and travel, check out Lonely Planet's Health Hub.

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Of Amsterdam 's trove of museums, the twin standouts are the monumental Rijksmuseum, the Netherlands' national museum, crammed with treasures spanning more than eight centuries, and the streamlined, modern Van Gogh Museum, containing the world's largest collection of works by seminal Dutch artist Vincent Van Gogh.

Both rank among the top-tier museums in Europe, yet each offers a wildly different experience. At a stretch, you could visit both in one, very full day, or, more comfortably, two. But what if you can only make it to a single museum? We drill down into the key aspects to consider to help you choose between them.

Comparing each collection highlights

The superstar attraction of the Rijksmuseum is Rembrandt’s colossal The Night Watch; his other canvases here include The Jewish Bride and The Syndics. Golden Age paintings also include Vermeer’s Milkmaid and Woman in Blue Reading a Letter, and works by Jan Steen such as The Merry Family.

Also within the museum's whopping 1.5km (half-a-mile-plus) of galleries are blue-and-white  Delftware pottery, intricate dollhouses, Asian art and the splendid Cuypers Library. There are artworks by Van Gogh at the Rijksmuseum too, among them his famous 1887 Self-portrait.

For an extensive array, the Van Gogh Museum is a deep-dive into the mind, soul and extraordinary body of work by the tormented genius, from his artistic beginnings in the Netherlands to his prolific days in southern France where he painted with fervent brushstrokes and vibrant colors.

Chronologically arranged, there are some 200 paintings ( The Potato Eaters, Sunflowers, Almond Blossom, The Yellow House, The Bedroom, Wheatfield with Crows...) and 500 drawings. You'll also find works by his peers (Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Monet et al), as well as 700 hand-written letters that provide an intimate glimpse into his close relationship with his younger brother, Theo, Vincent's most ardent supporter.

Our pick

The Van Gogh museum for an emotive connection to one of the world's most complex artists, the Rijksmuseum for the grand sweep of Dutch art history.

Location and setting of these two Amsterdam museums

The museums are adjacent to each other at Museumplein, a vast, grassy expanse in central Amsterdam around 10 minutes' walk from the lively nightlife hub of Leidseplein and a similar distance to the leafy Vondelpark (great for a post-museum picnic).

The Rijksmuseum occupies a magnificent late 19th-century building combining neo-Gothic and Dutch Renaissance styles by Pierre Cuypers, who also worked on Amsterdam's showpiece Centraal Station. Outside, the gardens, with roses, fountains, hedges and even a greenhouse, double as an outdoor sculpture gallery.

By contrast, the Van Gogh Museum's main building is an early 1970s arrival designed by De Stijl architect Gerrit Rietveld. Its glass exhibition wing by Kisho Kurokawa was added in 1999, and in 2015, an extension providing an extra 800 sq meters (8600 sq ft) of space incorporated a striking new entrance hall.

Our pick

The Rijksmuseum for historic grandeur and gardens, the Van Gogh Museum for modern and contemporary design.

History of the Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum

Many of the Netherlands' national and royal collections were displayed at the National Art Gallery in Den Haag (The Hague) before Napoleon moved them to join others at the new capital's Royal Palace on Amsterdam's Dam Square in 1808. The collections continued to shift locations until a design competition was held to build them a permanent home befitting of the works on display. Construction of the Rijksmuseum began in 1876 and in 1885 the museum opened its doors. A decade-long, multimillion-euro renovations were completed in 2013.

The founding of the Van Gogh Museum was more personal: Vincent died in 1890, aged just 37, having only sold one painting in his lifetime. He left his works to his brother, Theo, who died the following year. Theo’s widow, Jo Van Gogh-Bonger, inherited the collection. When she died in 1925, she passed it on to her son Vincent Willem van Gogh, who loaned it to Amsterdam’s Stedelijk Museum (also located at Museumplein) until the government commissioned this dedicated museum, which opened in 1973.

Our pick

The Rijksmuseum for national history, the Van Gogh Museum for family history.

How long does it take to see the museums?

The Rijksmuseum's size and the scale of its collections – some 8000 pieces are displayed at a time – means you'll need plenty of time here. Allow at least four to five hours to do it justice.

At the Van Gogh Museum, visits typically take around two hours, though aficionados will want to stay longer.

Our pick

The Van Gogh Museum if you have a tight schedule, the Rijksmuseum if you want to make a day of it.

Opening hours and best times to visit

Aim to visit either museum first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon, especially midweek, to experience them at their quietest. The Rijksmuseum opens daily from 9am to 5pm year-round. Opening hours for the Van Gogh Museum vary seasonally: during the warmer months (March/April to September/October), hours are typically 9am or 10am to 5pm or 6pm, with extended hours to 9pm on Fridays. The rest of the year it's normally 10am to 5pm (to 6pm on weekends), closing completely on Mondays in mid-winter.

Hours are updated on the museums' websites; you'll need to book an entry-timed ticket (more on that below).

Our pick

The Rijksmuseum for consistent hours year-round, the Van Gogh Museum for longer hours in season.

Booking tickets at Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum

Tickets to the Rijksmuseum cost €20 for adults; admission is free for visitors aged 18 and under (ie under 19); there are no student discounts. Its sculpture gardens are free. Tickets for the Van Gogh Museum cost €19 per adult, with free admission for children under 18 years old; on weekdays (excluding public holidays), students pay €10 with valid ID.

Both museums require you to prebook tickets online and choose a start time for your visit. Entry time slots are essential even for visitors with a museum pass or discount card such as the worthwhile I amsterdam City Card.

Our pick

The Van Gogh Museum is marginally cheaper, although you'll probably spend longer at the Rijksmuseum, which may work out to be more cost effective overall.

Tours of Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum

Check the museums' websites for current details of guided tours (subject to Covid-19 restrictions).

The Rijksmuseum app is downloadable from the Apple app store or Google Play (bring your own headphones or purchase them at the museum). This nifty, free multilingual app lets you create your own route through the museum based on your interests.

Multimedia guides in multiple languages for the Van Gogh Museum normally cost €5 for adults and €3 for under 18s, and are disinfected after use; reserve one online when you book.

Our pick

The Rijksmuseum for its customisable app, the Van Gogh Museum for a ready-made audio tour.

Which of these Amsterdam museums has the best restaurants?

Cafes and espresso bars are located at the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum. The Rijksmuseum also has a destination restaurant, Rijks, utilising local produce in exquisitely presented dishes inspired by traditional Dutch recipes that have earned it a Michelin star.

Our pick

The cafes at both museums are excellent. For a meal to rival the artworks, you can't beat the Rijksmuseum.

Rijksmuseum or Van Gogh Museum, which should I visit?

Ultimately, if you're an art-history buff and fan of the Dutch masters, the Rijksmuseum won't disappoint. Fans of Van Gogh's works, on the other hand, shouldn't pass up the chance to see so many of his masterpieces in one place. And if you can't visit them both on this trip, you could always return to Amsterdam.

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Think South Africa, and images of cloud-draped mountains, crashing blue seascapes, carpets of wildflowers, deep green canyons and sweeping velds flood the mind. This country is a vast land of wild natural beauty, filled with tucked-away valleys, surging rivers, magical waterfalls, and roiling surf – the best of which can only be reached on a hike.

South Africa boasts many multi-day hiking trails, some with truly luxurious lodgings and others more rustic, and walkers can set off on plenty of amazing day hikes as well. On some hikes you will need to purchase a permit ahead of time, and some trails require guides.

Nearly everywhere you go in South Africa, you are guaranteed striking foliage – much of it seen nowhere else on Earth – as well as wild animals ranging from zebra and wildebeest to springbok and eland (don’t worry: these trails don’t have lions or Cape buffalo on them). If you’re a birdwatcher, you’re in for a rare treat. With nearly 900 species fluttering through the air, thriving in a diversity of climates and landscapes, South Africa is one of the world’s best bird-watching destinations.

Here is a sampling of South Africa ’s greatest hiking trails.

Rhebok Hiking Trail

Best summit hike

19-mile (31km) loop, 2 days, challenging

The slog up 9000-ft (2743m) Generaalskop mountain brings on the burn – there’s a reason Kneebrake and Hartbreek are among the ominously named geographical features you encounter along the way. But this popular two-day hike in Golden Gate Highlands National Park – South Africa’s only park to be created for the conservation of scenery – showcases such drop-dead gorgeous highveld scenery, arguably some of the country’s most breathtaking, that you won’t even feel the pain. Probably.

The first day covers 10 miles (16km), each step taking in rotating scenes of far-off peaks, steep-sided kloofs (ravines), rock pools perfect for swimming and roaring waterfalls. Once-prolific eland, springbok, zebra and the namesake grey rhebok have been reintroduced and run wild. Black eagles and jackal buzzards soar above. After an overnight at the riverside Rhebok Hut, the second day unfurls Generaalskop’s magnificence, with its top-of-the-world views into Lesotho, but only after a serious 3280ft (1000m) ascent on a trail that’s steep, narrow and rocky. After all this, some say the merciless descent is even more taxing.

Reservations must be made in advance with SANParks, with a maximum group of 18. Hikers must be older than 10.

If you don’t have two days or a desire to burn, the park has several shorter trails, including the easy, 2.4-mile (3.9km) Mushroom Rock Trail known for its wildflowers and the imposing, red-hued Mushroom Rock.

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Otter Trail

Best multi-day hike

28 miles (45km), 5 days, moderate

The Otter Trail is South Africa’s most iconic multi-day hike. It’s also the country’s oldest trail, turning 50 in 2022. Winding along the Garden Route ’s spectacular rocky coastline between the Storms River mouth and Nature’s Valley, the Otter Trail takes in sweeping blue sea vistas, indigenous coastal forests, tidal pools, empty sand beaches, rich fynbos (vegetation unique to the southern tip of Africa, featuring featherlike trees and shrubs) and the chance to spot the trail’s shy namesake, the Cape clawless otter, which lives along rivers and sometimes can be seen scavenging in shallow surf. Spouting whales and cavorting dolphins can be spotted too. There are steep ascents and descents and 11 river crossings, with the main technical difficulty being the Bloukrans River crossing, which you must swim across and then scramble up a rope on the other side. The sound of lapping waves lull you to sleep at night in the seaside log huts.

You can hike the Otter Trail year-round, but October to April are the warmest months and also feature blooming wildflowers. The minimum age allowed on the trail is 12, and the oldest is 65. Bookings must be made through SANParks, and only 12 people can start the trail every day. Reservations are taken up to a year in advance.

If you can’t get booked on the Otter Trail, try the Waterfall Trail, which takes you along the first part of the Otter Trail. The Dolphin Trail is another good option, which is easier, with more luxurious accommodations, than the Otter Trail but with the same gorgeous scenery. At Garden of Eden, a half-mile (800m) trail wanders along a wheelchair-friendly wooden boardwalk, exploring a fairytale world of giant lichen-covered trees and burbling streams.

Blyderivierspoort Hiking Trail

Best canyon hike

37 miles (60km), 5 days, challenging

There are canyons, and then there are canyons. The dramatic Blyde River Canyon in Mpumalanga province is the planet’s third largest, and the world’s largest green canyon, dominated by subtropical vegetation. Carved by the Blyde River (recently renamed Motlatse) in the northern Drakensberg escarpment, the canyon can be explored many different ways, including driving the famous Panorama Route. But to get into the canyon and soak in its essence at river level, opt for the Blyderivierspoort Hiking Trail (aka Blyde River Canyon Trail). This geological dance from God’s Window to Swadini takes you past rock pools, waterfalls (more than anywhere else in South Africa) and fanciful rock formations brightly colored with lichen. The views of the lowveld (open, grassy expanses) are spectacular. Keep an eye out for baboons, grey rheboks, duikers and klipspringers.

Bookings are essential through the Mpumalanga Tourism and Parks Agency. An organized trip is recommended for those not familiar with the route. Accommodations range from camping under the stars to simple huts and comfy cottages. It’s possible to take two- and three-day hikes as well.

Leopard’s Kloof Hiking Trail

Best hike for families

1.8-mile (3km) loop, 90 minutes, moderate

A tree near the start of this circular trail, in the Western Cape ’s Harold Porter National Botanical Gardens, has suspicious-looking leopard scratches, which allegedly is how it got its name. Chances are that you won’t see any leopards in the daytime, but they’re still around, mostly at night. What you will see are magnificent vistas as you make your way up through the forested kloof (ravine) alongside a murmuring stream, with views of the sparkling Atlantic opening up the higher you go. Finally, you reach the pièce-de-resistance: Leopard’s Kloof waterfall crashing into an idyllic pool. In summer (mid-December to late January), the famous red disa blooms in all its glory at the waterfall’s base, accenting the mosses and lofty cliffs.

Parents will appreciate that this trail is well-marked and easy to follow, while smaller kids will love the sense of adventure that comes with several river crossings and wooden ladders that must be climbed to reach the waterfall.

The trail is located at the far end of the botanical gardens. Before you start be sure to ask for the key at the main entrance. If you have time, you’ll also want to explore the 440-acre gardens, cradled in an idyllic spot between the slope of the Kogelberg and Betty’s Bay, at the heart of the coastal fynbos, a floral profusion including ericas, restios, and king proteas, the national flower. A tearoom offers light snacks.

Olifantsbos Shipwreck Trail

Best history hike

1.8 miles (3km) round-trip, 1.5 hours, easy

In the 15th century, King John II of Portugal changed the name of “Cape of Storms,” the cape south of Cape Town, to “Cape of Good Hope,” but he really should have stuck with the original, given the 3000-some shipwrecks strewn among its icy depths. Several trails in Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve wind along the splendidly rugged shoreline, providing excellent vantage points of the remains of different wrecks. The yellow-marked Olifantsbos Shipwreck Trail, also called the Thomas T. Tucker Trail, is a short, easy hike filled with history.

Starting off from the Olifantsbos parking area, you delve into the unique fynbos floral kingdom, where some 8700 species of heather-like trees and shrubs – including the protea, South Africa’s national flower – thrive in a narrow Western Cape pocket. Keep a look out for ostrich, Cape mountain zebra and red hartebeest. At Olifantsbos Beach, you come to the prominent, rusting scraps of the US Liberty ship Thomas T. Tucker. En route to the African Front during World War II, it crashed on Albatross Rock while hugging the foggy coastline to avoid German U-Boat detection (everyone survived). The hull is still visible in the surf, and it’s a popular diving spot.

Spend time on the isolated beach exploring the sea-creature-filled rock pools and watching for African black oystercatchers with their long legs and bright red beaks. You can also extend the hike to the Nolloth, which wrecked in 1965, and inland to Sirkelsvlei, a spring-fed wetland.

Platteklip Gorge Trail

Best urban hike

1.2 miles (2km) one way, 1 to 3 hours, moderate

A Capetonian weekend typically involves a morning hike up 3562ft (1086m) Table Mountain, the flat-topped mountain overlooking Cape Town, with brunch reservations back in Cape Town by 11am. Among several splendid trails, the most iconic – and most direct – is Platteklip Gorge. The mountain’s oldest trail, it’s well-marked and good for first-timers. While the beginning is fairly flat, the last part pushes up a protea-dotted ravine, straight up with no mercy. Thankfully, you have a good excuse to stop often, to look at the city panorama with the sparkling ocean beyond, a view that gets better and better the higher you go. The rich diversity of plant life here – part of the unique Cape Floral Region – embraces some 2220 plant species, including 1470 floral species, 70% of which are endemic to the area. At the top, you can enjoy a refreshing drink or snack at the restaurant and then either hike back down or jump a ride on the famous cableway.

For those without brunch reservations, other options include the 1.5-mile (2.5km) India Venster Trail, which follows the cable car route, offering some of the city’s best views; and the more leisurely 4-mile (6.2km) Skeleton Gorge Trail through a jungly ravine to the mountain’s summit at Maclears Beacon.

Rim of Africa

Best bucket list hike

403 miles (650km), 61 days, challenging

The epic Rim of Africa trail – South Africa’s longest mountain trail – undulates along the valleys and crests of the Cape Fold Mountain range, from the Cederberg to the Outeniqua mountains. Be warned: this hike is not for the unprepared or inexperienced. You bring in your own gear, set up your camp and suffer under the weight of your own backpack. But the rewards are worth it. You are treated to sightings of mountain caves, rock pools, wild fynbos splendor, hidden valleys, green pastures and crystal-clear streams. You are lost in the wilds of one of the world’s most special floral kingdoms. If you’re seeking to escape the rat race, Rim of Africa is your calling.

A guide is needed for this hike because it crosses private lands, and locals offer guiding services. Thru-hikes take place in spring (mid-September to mid-November), the ideal time to enjoy the flowering Cape Mountains. You can also tackle sections (called traverses), from 37 to 57 miles (60 to 92kms) each, rather than the whole thing at once.

Steenbok Flower Trail

Best hike for flower spotting

8.6 miles (14km), 5 hours, easy

Namaqualand is famed for its dizzying springtime display of wildflowers, transforming roadsides, vast fields and enormous scrublands into the most beautiful natural garden on Earth. And it’s not just about the beauty in numbers; it’s about the sheer variety of species that bloom. All in all, there are more than 3500 species of flowering plants, including the celebrated African daisy, with about 1000 of the species found nowhere else on the planet. One of the best places to walk among this floral spectacle is the Steenbok Trail, in West Coast National Park. The trail is open only in August and September at the height of springtime bloom. An added bonus: the eland, springbok, wildebeest, springbok and zebra that stand in the flowers like Ferdinand the Bull.

The bad news? You need a coveted permit to hike the Steenbok Flower Trail. Contact the Geelbek Information Centre on 022-707-9902/3. Bookings open in June. The good news? If you have a permit, you’ll feel like you have the trail all to yourself.

But this trail is not just about the flowers. The national park, open year-round, also has remote beaches with turquoise waters and striking granite outcrops. You can even whale-watch from the braai and picnic spots along the coast. There are other spectacular trails to consider, too, including the 2.7-mile (4.5km) Bakoor Trail, offering vistas of Langebaan lagoon; and the 5.5-mile (9km) Geelbek Short Day Walk that explores spectacular dunes.

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