With notoriously bad traffic and next-to-impossible parking, it's best to avoid driving until it's time to leave San Francisco. Fortunately, there are plenty of excellent ways to get around.

Most locals walk, bike, ride Muni (the public transit network of buses and streetcars) or ride-share instead of taking a car. The city also has three cable car lines that are frequent, slow and scenic; riding one is a must for first-time visitors. Here's how to navigate San Francisco.

Explore San Francisco on foot

Regularly ranked as one of the most walkable cities in the US, most major sights in San Francisco are reachable on foot and walking is always the best way to explore a neighborhood.

Starting in 2020, numerous streets across the city are closed to vehicular traffic one or more days a week — some, such as John F Kennedy Dr in Golden Gate Park, are now closed for the foreseeable future.

Walking trails

San Francisco has plenty of guided walking tours on offer. But you can easily just set off on your own for a great day of exploring, especially in such locales as the Presidio. It has a number of trails outlined by SF Crosstown Trails, which connect the city’s neighborhoods, open spaces, and local trails.

Their epic, eponymous 17-mile trail from Candlestick Point to Lands End is divided into five sections, which can be tackled separately and give a great overview of the city.

Cycle along the waterfront

San Francisco aims to be the most bike-friendly city in the US, and many locals have already jumped on the saddle. Many areas, such as Ocean Beach, the Marina and the waterfront are ideal for cycling.

San Francisco has an extensive bike network and most sights are reachable on two wheels. The network covers 448 miles. A map of the bike network is available. The non-profit San Francisco Bicycle Coalition also offers maps and information for cyclists.

Bike Share

Bike-sharing is available citywide through Bay Wheels. Both traditional bikes and e-bikes (electric bikes with removable batteries) can be hired from stations throughout San Francisco, the East Bay and San Jose, and are available for single trips, day use or with monthly access passes.

Bay Wheels stations are located downtown, and at major intersections – but bikes come without helmets, and biking without proper protection is dangerous so bring your own helmet.

You can use Muni to see every part of San Francisco

Muni operates bus, streetcar and cable car lines. Buses and streetcars are referred to interchangeably as Muni. Some areas are better connected than others, but Muni spares you the costly hassle of driving and parking – and it's often faster than driving.

Muni streetcars run in a subway under Market Street, where they are called Muni Metro. Lines J, K, L, M, N and T are excellent means of reaching far-flung parts of the city. There is also the delightful historic streetcar line F, which runs above ground on Market Street and runs to Fisherman’s Wharf along the waterfront.

A new subway line linking the Giants stadium, Caltrain terminal, downtown and Chinatown is set to open in 2022. It will allow easy transfers to all the streetcar lines.

Map and schedule

For route planning and schedules, consult Transit 511. For real-time departures, see www.nextmuni.com, which syncs with GPS on buses and streetcars to provide best estimates on arrival times.

Essential and free Muni Street and Transit Maps are available online. Also useful is the MuniMobile app, which you can also use to pay fares. Note that service and schedules are constantly changing due to Covid-19, so check all routes and schedules in advance.

Nighttime schedule

Nighttime and weekend service is less frequent than on weekdays. Owl service (half-hourly from 1am to 5am) operates only on a few principal lines; for schedules, see All Nighter 511.

Tickets and costs

On buses and streetcars, tickets bought from drivers (exact change required) or at underground Muni stations (where machines give change) cost $3. With a reloadable Clipper card or by using the MuniMobile app, the fare is only $2.50. A single fare is good for two hours of rides.

Fares are 50% less for people age 65 and older. Anyone age 18 or younger rides for free.

At the start of your Muni journey, free transfer tickets are available for additional Muni trips within 90 minutes (not including cable cars or BART). After 8:30pm, buses issue a Late Night Transfer good for travel until 5:30am the following morning.

Cable car tickets

Cable car tickets cost $8 per ride and can be bought at cable car ticket kiosks or on-board from the conductor.

Muni Visitor Passport passes

A Muni Visitor Passport (1/3/7 days $24/36/47, with the MuniMobile app $13/31/41) allows unlimited travel on all Muni transportation, including cable cars. It's sold at ticket kiosks and other locations.

Muni Day Pass

The great bargain on the Muni is the day pass which costs only $5 whether bought with the MuniMobile app or at a farebox or kiosk. It allows unlimited rides on the entire system except for the cable cars.

Clipper Card

Clipper Cards are a reloadable fare system that works on Muni, BART and other transit systems across the Bay Area. It automatically deducts fares and applies transfers (e.g. only one Muni fare is deducted per 90-minute period). You can put a Clipper Card on your phone for free or purchase a physical card for $3.

Downtown Muni/BART stations have machines that sell Clipper cards and fare credit. Clipper Cards, whether virtual on your phone or in physical form, can be linked to a credit card so that they automatically refill with value.

Go beyond the city center on the BART

BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit system) is the fastest link between downtown and San Francisco International Airport, Oakland and Berkeley. Four of the system's six lines pass through SF. BART serves downtown, Market Street and the Mission District well but does not reach most other areas of the city.

Tickets and fares

The reloadable Clipper Card system is the only way to pay your fare on BART. You can buy one for a one-time fee of $3 at BART stations, or purchase one virtually and install it on your phone (this is free). Note, if you’re arriving at SFO, set up your phone with a Clipper Card before you arrive so you can avoid the long lines of jet-lagged passengers trying to use the BART ticket machines.

BART fares are based on distance, so you’ll need your Clipper Card (or phone) to both enter and exit the system. The fare from SFO to downtown San Francisco is $9.65.

Go for a day trip on the train

Caltrain is the train service linking San Francisco to cities along the Peninsula south of the city and on to the South Bay and San Jose. It runs services at least hourly throughout the day and is reasonably fast and very comfortable.

Buy tickets from machines in stations, using the Caltrain app or with a Clipper Card. From the depot at 4th and King Sts in San Francisco, Caltrain heads south to Millbrae (connecting to BART and San Francisco airport; 30 minutes), Palo Alto (one hour) and San Jose (1½ hours).

Rest your weary legs in a taxi

Taxi fares start at $3.50 and run about $3 per mile. Add 15% to the fare as a tip ($1 minimum). For the quickest service in San Francisco, download the Flywheel app, which dispatches the nearest taxi.

Lyft and Uber are based in San Francisco and are ubiquitous. Note that with surge pricing, traditional taxis are often cheaper.

Take to the water and travel by ferry

The iconic Ferry Building is a destination in itself, not the least for its excellent eating and drinking options plus the great bay views. It also is the base for ferry routes that radiate out across the Bay Area.

Alcatraz

Alcatraz City Cruises runs the boats for the National Park Service that serve ‘The Rock.’ Boats depart from Pier 33 throughout the day; advance reservations are essential.

East Bay

San Francisco Bay Ferry operates from both Pier 41 and the Ferry Building to Oakland/Alameda, Richmond and Vallejo in the East Bay.

Marin County

Golden Gate Transit Ferries runs regular ferry services from the Ferry Building to Marin County ferry terminals in Larkspur, Tiburon and Sausalito. These ferries pass Alcatraz and offer great sightseeing in addition to vital transit.

Blue & Gold Fleet operates ferries to Tiburon and Sausalito from Pier 41 near Fisherman’s Wharf.

How to navigate the hassle of a car or motorbike

If you can, avoid driving in San Francisco: heavy traffic is a given, street parking is harder to find than true love, meter readers are ruthless and vehicle break-ins are a plague.

Traffic

San Francisco streets mostly follow a grid bisected by Market St. Avoid driving during rush hours. Before heading to any bridge, airport or other traffic choke-point, check 511.org for traffic updates.

Parking

For real-time details on how to find parking in the city, and also how to pay your parking meter by app, see SF Park. Parking is tricky and costly, especially downtown. Hotel parking costs $30 to $60 per day, about the same as public parking lots and garages.

Parking Restrictions

Parking restrictions are indicated by the following color-coded sidewalk curbs (in some popular neighborhoods, it can seem like all of the few available parking spots have restrictions):

● Blue Disabled parking only; placard required.

● Green Ten-minute parking zone from 9am to 6pm.

● Red No parking or stopping.

● White For picking up or dropping off passengers only; note posted times.

● Yellow Loading zone during posted times.

Rental

All major car rental firms operate at SFO (San Francisco International Airport) and at locations across the city and region. Rates vary depending on demand – when large conventions come to SF, you may find no cars available at all. Note that taxes and fees greatly increase the initial rates quoted.

A smart strategy is to avoid renting a car during your time in the city and wait until you venture further afield. Note that anything left visible in a car is considered fair game for smash-and-grab thieves.

Accessible transportation in San Francisco

Muni, BART, Caltrain and the ferries are all fully accessible. The city streets are also mostly accessible to people with differing mobility needs.

For more information on accessible travel, download Lonely Planet's free Accessible Travel ebook.

Why I love walking in San Francisco

I’ve walked cumulatively thousands of miles in San Francisco. Even on routes I’m very familiar with, there is always a new discovery. Whether it’s an idiosyncratic shop, a beautiful piece of street art, the wafting enticement of a bakery or just a surprise view that dazzles, I am never bored exploring the city by the bay on foot.

I pair my adventures with the incredible Muni Day Pass, which for only $5 lets me pop around the city between walks all day – and night – long.

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The arc of rainforest-cloaked mountains that gave this corner of southeast Queensland its name is laced with dozens of beautiful and well-maintained hiking trails, from easy short walks to epic multi-day tramps. Lace your boots for the best hikes in Australia’s Scenic Rim, one of Lonely Planet’s top 10 regions to visit for 2022.

Home to six national parks, four of which form part of the World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests of Australia, the Scenic Rim is the ultimate rainforest hiking hub. These national parks cradle the agricultural heart of the Scenic Rim, west of the Gold Coast, that’s home to wineries, breweries, farm-gate stalls and even a camel milk products-focused cafe, meaning there are plenty of delicious ways to treat yourself when you emerge from the forest.

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Scenic Rim Trail

Best multi-day hike
47km one-way / 29 miles, 4 days

Tracing a dramatic ridgeline in Main Range National Park, on the western fringe of the Scenic Rim, Queensland’s first “Great Walk” pairs ancient Gondwana Rainforests with stellar views, lush waterfalls and pioneer heritage on a four-day trek from Thornton View Trailhead, 90 minutes southwest of Brisbane, to Cunninghams Gap.

There are two ways to tackle this multi-day adventure. Opt for a luxury guided experience with boutique hotel group Spicers Retreats, which launched the trail in partnership with Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service in 2020. With private, eco-luxe camps tucked well off the public trail, the Spicers version is around 13km (8 miles) longer than an independent hike. But with your luggage shuttled ahead each day, it’s more accessible for people unable (or unwilling) to carry four days’ worth of gear. Public campsites are basic (don’t expect showers), but at AUD$6.75 (USD$4.83) per night, this option is a bargain.

Ascending through native bushland to the ridgeline on day one is the most challenging part of the trail. The following morning, you’ll pass several relics from the area’s logging days before venturing deep into the rainforest, where you could spend a lifetime counting the shades of green surrounding you.

Passing several waterfalls and viewpoints, the undulating trail is more manageable from day two onward. On day four, the Bare Rock viewpoint overlooking the farmlands of the Scenic Rim makes an ideal lunch spot before descending to the Cunningham Highway, where the trail ends.

Mt Barney

Best mountain climb
17.5km return / 11 miles, 1 day

The pinnacle of bushwalking in southeast Queensland, Mt Barney (1354m) is a challenging, strenuous climb that should only be attempted by hikers with extensive bushwalking, scrambling and navigation experience (a GPS and personal locator beacon is essential). The views from the rugged mountain peak in the remote southwestern corner of the Scenic Rim, which features prominently in local Aboriginal Dreaming stories, more than make up for the effort.

There are two routes to the summit. Allow eight to 10 hours to ascend the East Ridge route, which traverses steep ridges and involves several climbs. When you reach the saddle, there’s still about 267m (876ft) in altitude to climb before summiting on East Peak; allow an hour and a half each way for this section. While shorter at seven to nine hours, the South East Ridge route is much steeper, requiring a higher level of fitness and skill. Both routes descend via the East Ridge route to Upper Logan Rd (where you can park).

Ravaged by Australia’s 2019-20 bushfires, Mt Barney National Park (120km/75 miles southwest of Brisbane) is now making a remarkable recovery. To learn more about this wild corner of Gondwana, opt for a guided interpretive hike. Bookable through nearby Mt Barney Lodge, a guide also boosts your safety because it’s very easy to get lost on this trail.

Coomera Circuit

Best for waterfalls
17.4km / 10.8 miles return, 7 hours

One of the most scenic walks in the Binna Burra section of Lamington National Park, the well-marked Coomera Circuit is a gorgeous day hike that passes through subtropical and warm temperate rainforest communities home to a series of lush waterfalls, including the Coomera and Yarrabilgong waterfalls that plunge off rainforest-covered cliffs into a 160m-deep (525ft) gorge.

Making a loop from the Binna Burra Upper Day Use Area, an hour’s drive west of the Gold Coast, this trail is best hiked counterclockwise to avoid a steep incline at the end, leaving the Border Track after 1.9km (1.2 miles), then ascending along the edge of Coomera Gorge. Look out for the distinctive blue-and-white Lamington spiny crayfish as you trace the path of the Coomera River through the verdant forest. You’ll cross the river several times (via conveniently placed stepping stones) before rejoining the Border Track and returning to the Binna Burra trailhead.

Curtis Falls Track

Best for families
1.1km / 0.7 miles return, 30 minutes

Ideal for little hikers lacking the stamina (or the attention span) for a longer tramp, this enchanting out-and-back walk in the Joalah section of Tamborine National Park is also one of the Scenic Rim’s most accessible, just a 45-minute drive northwest from the heart of the Gold Coast.

Beginning beneath towering gums, the easy walk gradually descends into lush rainforest. Feel the temperature drop as you admire beautiful staghorn ferns in the canopy above. Meandering alongside Curtis Creek, the trail ends at a platform at the base of small but stunning Curtis Falls. Swimming in the serene pool below is off limits, but the view makes for terrific photos. Look closely and you might spot freshwater turtles basking on rocks or logs.

Got more energy? Extend this hike by connecting it with the Lower Creek Circuit (2.5km/1.6 miles return) which branches off the Curtis Falls Track. Allow around an hour to complete this charming rainforest walk, with several creek crossings making it a little more challenging.

Border Track

Best for adventure
21.4 km / 13.3 miles, 7 hours

Trek into the heartland of the Gondwana Rainforests on this full-day hike connecting the Green Mountains and Binna Burra sections of Lamington National Park. The long but rewarding journey traces the border of Queensland and New South Wales, taking you through subtropical and temperate rainforests, into lush gullies and valleys, across crystal-clear mountain streams, past ethereal waterfalls, and along prominent ridgelines. The first 700m (0.4 miles) is wheelchair accessible.

Many trails radiate from the Border Track, the backbone of the Lamington walking track system.

This includes a short, steep 600m/0.4-mile return side-track that leads to two lookouts – Beereenbano and Merino – well worth the detour for the awesome views over the Tweed and Limpinwood valleys. During winter months, listen for the distinctive ringing call of the Albert’s lyrebird, thought to be descended from the world’s oldest songbird.

The trail is bookended by Binna Burra Lodge and O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat, both of which offer rooms, camping, and one-way Saturday morning transfers to the opposite trailhead, allowing you to hike back to your accommodation (or car). Whichever way you go, it’s easily one of the most memorable ways to spend a day in the Scenic Rim.

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With its famous pink-sand beaches, pastel-colored houses trimmed with bougainvillea, and a melange of British, African, Portuguese and Caribbean cultures, balmy Bermuda is a favorite for sunny getaways year-round.

The island ticks all the boxes for a tropical escape. Bermuda's eclectic, colorful heritage is reflected in its food, art and music, and there are plenty of ways to get active in the sun, when you aren't enjoying the stunning beaches.

Whether you’re coming by cruise ship or plane, entering and leaving Bermuda is relatively straightforward, but requirements vary depending on your nationality. Here's a guide to Bermuda’s entry requirements, from info on visas to details on how to apply for temporary residency and permission to work in Bermuda.

Visiting Bermuda without a visa

You can visit Bermuda without a visa or permit if you’re a British, or a citizen of the US or Canada, regardless of whether you come to Bermuda as a tourist, business traveler or work permit holder. All you need is a passport (valid for the proposed duration of your stay) plus tickets for return or onward travel.

There's some small print. Travel tickets must show the Booking Reference Number, destination and departure date and time, and you must also produce a valid visa for the country you are traveling to next (if one is needed). Note that credit-card-sized US passport cards are not accepted for air travel – you'll need your actual paper passport.

How can other nationalities visit Bermuda?

As of 2014, Bermuda no longer issues entry visas or visa waivers to visitors, regardless of nationality or purpose of their visit. However, if you’re a citizen of any other country besides the UK, Canada or the United States, you must show a valid passport, return or onward tickets and proof that you have the right to re-enter either the US, UK or Canada (depending on your port of transit), since you will have to pass through one of these three countries to reach Bermuda.

This proof may take the form of a Multi Re-Entry Visa (MRV), if one is required to enter the UK, US or Canada. Proof that you can re-enter these countries is required even if you are just passing through the airport to catch a connecting flight to Bermuda. MRVs and passports must be valid for at least 45 days past the expiration of your stay in Bermuda. You may also be asked to show proof of booked accommodation for your stay.

Requirements for permanent residents

If you’re a permanent resident of the US, UK or Canada, rather than a citizen, on arrival in Bermuda you must produce proof of right of abode in one of the three countries. British and Canadian residents must show a Permanent Resident Card, while those living in the US need to show either a Permanent Residence Card (Green Card) or an original certificate of US naturalization, as well as some government-issued photo ID.

Return or onward tickets and a passport valid for 45 days beyond your booked departure date from Bermuda are additional entry requirements. If you’re a woman traveling under your married name, but your identification is under your maiden name, you must also produce a certified copy of your marriage certificate.

How long can tourists stay in Bermuda?

The maximum length of stay for tourists has been extended to 180 days as of August 1, 2020. To extend your stay beyond this 180-day maximum, you'll have to request annual residency from the Department of Immigration.

The application process for residency involves placing a sealed envelope in the dropbox on the 2nd floor of the Government Administration Building outside the Department of Immigration Headquarters at 30 Parliament Street in Hamilton.

Full details and application forms are available online, but the envelope must contain the following supporting documents:

a completed Application for Residence Form
proof of sufficient funds to support yourself during your stay (such as a recent bank statement)
proof of health insurance covering the requested residency period
an official police certificate from your country of residence confirming that you have no criminal record
proof of online payment of the US$263 processing fee

How to work in Bermuda

Until recently, working in Bermuda required a work permit and a job offer from a Bermuda-based company. However, from August 1, 2020, Bermuda has been offering special "Work from Bermuda" residency certificates, valid for up to a year, to digital nomads and students of all nationalities who wish to either work or study remotely while based on the island.

The online application costs US$263, and applicants must be over 18 years old, with valid health insurance and a clean criminal record. You'll need to present evidence that you are employed by a legitimate company, or enrolled in a recognized study program, and have a continuous source of income.

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With rich history, vibrant traditions and glorious nature everywhere you look, Sweden is made for road trips.

The country’s comprehensive network of highways and secondary roads is well maintained, and even dirt roads tend for the most part to be relatively smooth gravel and dust than suspension-jolting rutted tracks. Though many attractions are accessible by public transportation, one of the joys of a Swedish road trip is all the unexpected discoveries along the way, from secluded lakes to endless views, charming cities and towns to archaeological sites dating back a thousand years. Here, from north to south, are nine driving routes that showcase the best of Sweden.

Best Arctic road

Kiruna to the Norwegian border

Kiruna-Riksgränsen and back; 163 miles (262km); allow at least a day

Mountains, lakes and forest are the main attractions on this gorgeous 82-mile (131km) stretch of route E10, one of the most northerly roads in Sweden. The road hugs the south shore of Torneträsk, Sweden’s largest alpine lake, passing through Abisko, one of the jewels of the national park system, and providing excellent views of Lapporten, the region’s iconic U-shaped mountain.

Unless you’re also planning on visiting Norway, you’ll have to turn around at Riksgränsen and drive back the way you came — no hardship, since even the most panoramic view looks different in the opposite direction. You can easily make the round-trip drive in a day, but if you’ve got time, spend at least a night or two in the Abisko area to experience the national park.

Best road trip for wild alpine scenery

The Wilderness Road

Strömsund-Strömsund; 310 miles (500km); 2-7 days

This route makes a circuit through one of Sweden’s most spectacular alpine wilderness areas. Starting in Strömsund, drive clockwise past a string of sparkling lakes and rushing rivers before climbing onto the Stekenjokk plateau, 2884 feet (879m) above sea level. This is Sweden’s highest-altitude paved road and is closed from mid-October to early June due to heavy snow. Once you descend, continue along more lakes and rivers to Vilhelmina, then circle back south to Strömsund to complete the loop.

Without stops you could drive this route in a day and see plenty of stunning scenery, but taking your time reveals many interesting sights and detours, including hiking trails, waterfalls, Sweden’s longest cave system, Sámi camps and church towns, local heritage centers and a variety of guided outdoor activities.

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Best road trip for intriguing natural wonders

Indalsälven and the High Coast

Östersund-Örnsköldsvik; 240 miles (385km); 5-7 days

This route connects one of Sweden’s major rivers to one of its most geologically interesting stretches of coastline. As you follow Indalsälven through the beautiful Ragunda Valley worthwhile stops include Döda Fallet (the Dead Falls), a striking display of nature’s power and human folly, and Thailändska Paviljongen, an authentic Thai pavilion commemorating King Chulalongkorn’s 1887 visit to the region.

Continue to the coast to explore Höga Kusten, a stretch of shoreline that has been rising steadily since the end of the last Ice Age. The region’s many attractions include hiking trails in rugged Skuleskogen National Park, spectacular views from Skuleberget, the once-secret Cold War fortress at Hemsö and boat excursions to Ulvön. Don’t miss the viewpoint at the north end of Sweden’s longest suspension bridge, Höga Kustenbron.

Best road trip for Swedish arts and culture

Dalarna circuit

Falun-Borlänge, 160 miles (257km): 3-7 days

A road trip through Dalarna is an opportunity to explore some of Sweden’s most beloved traditions and cultural icons, as well as striking scenery around Lake Siljan. The lakeside towns of Leksand, Rättvik and Mora are centers for local music, folk dance and handicraft traditions. North of Leksand, be sure to take the side road via the picture-perfect village of Tällberg. Near Mora, stop in Nusnäs to see hand-painted wooden Dala horses being made. Along the west side of Siljan, take the road across Sollerön, an island with many Viking graves, and hike — or take the chairlift — to the top of 1686-foot (514m) Gesundaberget for panoramic lake views.

Other highlights include Falun, known for its historic copper mine, and the homes of the famous Swedish artists Carl Larsson, in Sundborn, and Anders Zorn, in Mora.

Best coastal road trip

Bohuslän Coastal Road

Göteborg-Strömstad; 250 miles (400km); 3-10 days

Just north of Göteborg, Bohuslän is a stunningly beautiful region with a jagged coastline dotted with picturesque villages and historic sites. By highway, it’s just two hours from Göteborg to the Norwegian border, but taking your time on the smaller roads along the coast quickly reveals why this is one of Sweden’s most popular summer vacation areas.

Attractions along the way include nature reserves, imposing fortresses, the outdoor art exhibit Skulptur i Pilane, thousands of ancient petroglyphs at Tanum and Sweden’s first marine national park, Kosterhavet, off the coast near Strömstad. Among the most beautiful communities are Smögen with its brightly painted fishing huts; Fjällbacka, made famous to crime fiction fans by local author Camilla Läckberg; and Grebbestad, with a vibrant guest harbor and renowned oyster fisheries.

Best road trip for castles and history

Around Lake Mälaren

Stockholm-Stockholm; 250 miles (400km); 2-7 days

The heartland of the Swedish kingdom for centuries, the Lake Mälaren region brims with fascinating history and lovely scenery. Surrounding the lake are enchanting towns such as Sigtuna, founded around 970, and dozens of impressive castles including Skokloster, Strömsholm and Gripsholm.

If you’re intrigued by ancient mysteries, don’t miss Anundshög, the largest burial mound in Sweden; the Bronze Age rock carvings at Boglösa and Häljesta; or Sigurdsristningen, Sweden’s longest runic inscription. If you love historic churches, the medieval cathedrals in Västerås and Strängnäs are must-see attractions. For a look at daily life in bygone days, stop at Vallby Open Air Museum or Rademachersmedjorna. Near Södertälje, Taxinge-Näsby Palace is famous for its bountiful selection of pastries — a sweet finale to your Mälaren adventure.

Best road trip for varied attractions

Around Lake Vättern

Jönköping-Jönköping; about 200 miles (321km); allow 4-8 days

Long and narrow, Sweden’s second-largest lake is the centerpiece of a diverse route blending history, nature and culture. Follow the eastern shore to Gränna, famous for striped candy canes, and the gorgeous nature reserve Ekopark Omberg. Nearby are the 12th-century monastic ruins at Alvastra and Sweden’s longest runic inscription, Rökstenen. Continue on to Vadstena with its renowned medieval abbey and impressive Renaissance castle, and Motala, the “capital” of the Göta Canal, with Sweden’s longest lake beach, Varamobadet.

Tiveden National Park and Karlsborg Fortress are among the highlights on Vättern’s west side. If you have time, interesting detours around the lake include Visingsö island (by ferry from Gränna); the Göta Canal with multi-lock staircases at Borenshult and Berg; the medieval sites at Skara and Varnhem; and Lake Hornborga, beloved by birdwatchers.

Best road trip combining nature and history

Skåne

Kristianstad-Ängelholm; 250 miles (400km); 7-10 days

Sweden’s southernmost province, Skåne, has a reputation for being flat, but as this route proves, that’s only true some of the time. This road trip encompasses a diverse range of landscapes, including rocky coastline, golden fields, apple orchards, wildflower-covered hills, and some of Sweden’s finest beaches. Other highlights include medieval towns and cities such as Åhus, Ystad and Lund; the mysterious ancient ship setting Ales Stenar; and Sweden’s vibrant third-largest city, Malmö.

Skåne also has three national parks — Stenshuvud, Dalby Söderskog and Söderåsen — which protect special landscapes unique to the region. In the northwest, don’t miss the magnificent gardens at Sofiero Palace and Kullaberg, a cave-dotted peninsula with dramatic coastal views, picturesque towns and Sweden’s most powerful lighthouse.

Best long-distance road trip

Cities and coasts

Stockholm-Göteborg or vice versa; 620 miles (1000km); 10-14 days minimum

Connecting Sweden’s three largest cities, this route takes in many of the highlights of southern Sweden, following the coast most of the way. At Södertälje, southwest of Stockholm, pick up the excursion route Utflyktsvägen, a scenic byway that terminates near Norrköping. Next, follow the E22 south to Skåne, making detours inland or along the coast as you please. Worthwhile stops include pretty Söderköping on the Göta Canal, historic Kalmar with its iconic Renaissance castle and Karlskrona, a naval city overlooking Sweden’s southernmost archipelago.

From Kristianstad, follow the Skåne route above to Ängelholm, from which the E6 highway runs straight up the beautiful west coast. If you have enough time, there are many alternative routes past fine beaches and attractive cities such as Halmstad, Falkenberg and Varberg, en route to lively Göteborg.

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As we enter another phase of COVID-19 uncertainty with the emergence of the new Omicron strain coupled with the surge of Delta-driven infections in many parts of the world, the US Department of State and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) updated their travel advisories this week, moving more European and African destinations to the Level-4 alert.

South Africa, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Mozambique, Malawi, Lesotho, eSwatini, and Botswana are among the latest countries to receive the "do not travel" designation, as well as an incoming travel ban on foreign visitors from those countries due to the emergence of the Omicron strain. Poland was also added to the Level 4 list—the latest in a growing list of European destinations the US government is urging Americans to avoid.

The current advisories aim to inform US residents about risks associated with traveling overseas, so people can make better-informed decisions about travel and enjoy relatively safe trips. If you plan to travel soon, here's what you need to know about the latest travel guidelines.

Read more: What you need to know about finding and paying for healthcare abroad

What is a travel advisory?

The ongoing risks associated with COVID-19, particularly as new variants emerge, present challenges and uncertainties for travel. To make the experience a little less confusing, the Department of State has aligned its security travel advisories with the CDC's science-based Travel Health Notices to warn travelers about dangers and COVID-19 threats overseas.

Level 4 travel advisory

Level 4 is the highest alert. Countries that register more than 500 new cases of COVID-19 over the past 28 days per 100,000 population are designated to the CDC's Level-4 list. Under CDC guidelines, people are asked to "avoid travel" to Level 4 destinations—but if they must travel, they should be fully vaccinated.

The Department of State takes this information into account, also looking at factors such as political instability, natural disasters and the threat of terrorism or violent crime. "[Level 4] is the highest advisory level due to greater likelihood of life-threatening risks," the Department explains. In the context of COVID-19, Americans are urged to avoid travel to these places due to increased infection rates and COVID-19 variants such as the Omicron.

What countries are at Level 4?

Many popular European destinations have been designated Level 4 recently as the region battles another wave of COVID-19, prompting lockdowns in Austria and Slovakia, and the cancellation of Christmas markets in winter-friendly travel spots like Germany. Some Caribbean destinations are also sitting at the highest alert, such as Barbados and Belize where cases are rising. South Africa and neighboring countries are also here, just days after South Africa alerted the world to the emergence of the Omicron strain.

Other destinations at Level 4 include Ireland, the UK, Cuba, Denmark, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Iceland, the Czech Republic, Trinidad and Tobago, Singapore, Turkey, French Polynesia, Greece, and more.

Level 3 advisory

The CDC advises unvaccinated Americans to avoid nonessential travel to Level 3 destinations, where risks associated with COVID-19 remain high. Some popular destinations designated Level 3 include Mexico, Costa Rica, Italy, Canada, El Salvador, Chile, Croatia, Colombia, Egypt, Aruba, Sweden, Japan, Sweden, Cyprus, Australia, Brazil, Israel, Thailand, Panama, Portugal, Spain and—most recently— France, Panama, the Bahamas, South Korea, and New Zealand. Fiji, which opened its borders to American tourists today, is also at Level 3.

Read more: International tourists can now travel to Canada - here's what to expect

Level 2 advisory

Level 2 places are considered "COVID-19 moderate" destinations by the CDC. When traveling to these places people are asked to "practice enhanced precautions". The CDC also urges unvaccinated people who are at increased risk for severe illness from COVID-19 to avoid nonessential travel to Level 2 destinations. Some countries currently at Level 2 include Peru, Rwanda, India, Kenya, Argentina, and Morocco.

Level 1 advisory

Level 1 destinations are considered "low-risk" countries. People traveling to these places are asked to "exercise normal precautions" by the Department of State. Given the scale of the pandemic, not many countries are considered low-risk. Some countries at Level 1 include Paraguay, Zambia, Morocco, Djibouti, Senegal, and the British Virgin Islands which recently revised its entry requirement s to make it easier for fully vaccinated travelers to visit the islands.

Should I cancel my trip to a Level 4 country?

The answer is up to you. Travel advisories are guidelines, not rules. You are still permitted to travel to these places, but if you choose to go a country the government is advising you to avoid, you do so at your own risk. In some extreme cases—that is, countries where there is civil unrest, widespread violence and political instability—the Department warns that some consular services may not be available to you and advises travelers to "always have a contingency plan for emergency situations".

Read more: What do I do if my flight gets cancelled⁠—and can I get a refund?

If I do travel, do I need to quarantine?

It depends on your destination. These travel advisories and travel health notices are set out by the US government and the CDC, not the governments of the individual countries. For example, Ireland is at Level 4 but the Irish government is permitting Americans to travel there.

Will my travel insurance cover me in a Level 4 country?

It depends on your plan and provider. We asked several travel insurance experts for information on the impact travel advisories have on your insurance; find out how your health insurance covers getting COVID-19 while traveling abroad, and how to choose travel insurance that covers COVID-19.

How often do these advisories change?

The Department of State confirms it reviews and updates travel advisories "as needed, based on security and safety information."

Anyone considering heading abroad should read the entire travel advisory for their destination at Travel.State.gov; in addition to the destination's border restrictions and entry requirements—and stay up-to-date on local public health guidelines.

For more information on COVID-19 and travel, check out Lonely Planet's Health Hub.

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From cannabis-clouded coffeeshops to lovely parks and cycling lanes aplenty, Amsterdam is a European city with a delightful, vibrant vibe that’s entirely its own. It certainly makes for amazing travel escapades, but there are also some useful things to understand about this city and the local culture.

So, what do you need to know before visiting Amsterdam for the first time? Here are our top tips for newcomers.

Planning your trip to Amsterdam

Amsterdam is not a 24/7 city

Amsterdam establishments keep very regular hours. Opening hours in shops are generally from about 10am to 6pm, and 8pm for supermarkets. Many shops and grocers do not open on Sundays (with the exception of busy tourist areas like Nieuwendijk and Kalverstraat). Coffeeshops tend to open in the morning and close around midnight, while bars and clubs go much later until 3 or 4am.

Pre-purchase tickets where possible

At museums and galleries, it’s best to plan for long queues – especially during the high season from June to August. Ticketed time slots (most can be downloaded to your phone) are available at popular sights like the Anne Frank Huis and Van Gogh Museum and should be booked at least six weeks prior.

Book accommodation and restaurants in advance

Similarly, lodging should be secured at least four months prior to your trip, especially if you’re visiting during the summer or on a weekend. Seats at your must-visit restaurants are best squared away at least two weeks in advance.

Lock your bike… twice

Most rental bikes come with two locks – and it’s best to use them both! Bike thieves in Amsterdam can be very capable. Use one lock for the front wheel (attached to the bike frame) and the other for the back, preferably attached to a post, bike rack or some other structure mounted to the ground.

Also pay attention to signage regarding bike parking. Bicycle racks near tram and train stations and in certain public squares are usually best, or you may risk a removal by the police.

Pack layers of clothing

Practical clothing will get you far in Amsterdam. It’s a city where people dress hip but casual (jeans and nice sneakers or boots, for example) and mix-and-match layers since the year-round weather is unpredictable. A light trench coat or windbreaker jacket is a go-to essential for all seasons besides winter when a proper coat and warm gear is needed.

Buy an OV-chipkaart for travel around the city

The OV-chipkaart is highly recommended for public transport since it’s more convenient than single tickets and is easily reloadable by cash at machines or by an app. It's available for purchase from places like ticketing machines and supermarkets.

Carry a mix of cash or cards

In Amsterdam, there is a growing movement of cafes and restaurants going cashless – while some of the more traditional, older haunts like bruin cafés ( brown cafes) may not take cards at all.

Etiquette in Amsterdam

Be respectful on the streets

Dutch locals are tired of Amsterdam’s reputation as a destination for bachelor parties and bad behaviour, therefore authorities are considering steps to curtail the effects of rowdy visitors. To avoid disapproving looks and humiliating conversations, acting sensibly on downtown streets is a must.

Smoking marijuana and drinking in public is illegal and considered poor etiquette by Amsterdam natives. Similarly, taking photos of sex workers in the Red Light District is strictly prohibited.

Haggling at flea markets is okay

When shopping at Amsterdam’s famous rommelmarkt (flea markets) like IJ Hallen, the first price given by the seller is usually not a firm price but a starting point. This rule applies more to secondhand items than artisan-made goods. Use your best judgment.

Mind the Dutch mentality

The Dutch are known for being extremely direct. If a local shares a blunt, unvarnished opinion with you, it comes from a place of honesty as opposed to impolite. In Dutch culture, it’s gracious to speak your mind and keep it short – don’t be surprised to find "no" is a complete sentence!

Certain topics are cultural taboos

Despite the brutally honest Dutch mentality, there are certain talking points which are considered too close to comfort and should be avoided – for example, asking questions that are very personal, for example about income.

Make friends by wearing orange

At sporting events in recent years, the Dutch are known for the oranjekoorts (orange fever) or oranjegekte (orange craze). If you want the Dutch to know you’re cheering for them, wear the royal family’s traditional colour. The more outlandish and over-the-top – we’re talking wigs, feather boas, and face paint – the better.

Health and safety in Amsterdam

Can I transport tulip bulbs home?

Tulip bulbs purchased at Amsterdam’s Bloemenmarkt can be shipped back to countries such as the United States but an official certificate is needed for customs. Look for the sticker which says, for example, “To the Plant Protection Service of the United States and Canada”. The additional certificate must be dated within six weeks of travel (otherwise it’s best to have the seller ship them).

Can I bring cheese back home from the Netherlands?

Most varieties of Dutch cheeses will make it through customs, although typically unpasteurized and raw cheeses may not. The cheese should also be vacuum-bagged.

Mind the cyclists – and cycling lanes

Cyclists in Amsterdam mean serious business. Never walk in a cycling lane or experience the wrath of an angry local on wheels. Always take a good look both ways before crossing. Bicycles are silent but an accident can be very serious for the cyclists and the pedestrian.

Don’t rent a car – rent a bike instead

Driving in Amsterdam is notoriously difficult, especially in the city center. Narrow cobblestone alleys and canals make manoeuvring tough, plus parking is scarce and pricey (and usually unavailable, even at hotels).

Rent a helmet

Helmets are not legally mandated but strongly recommended. Most bike shops rent them for as little as €2.50 a day.

Be careful around canals

Almost none have barriers and yes tourist drownings have happened.

Watch out for pickpockets

Amsterdam’s compact downtown, chock-full of foot traffic and often folks who are under the influence, is the perfect recipe for pocket thieves – especially in busy squares and typical visitor areas. Be aware and don't keep all your documents and valuables on you.

What to do if you need medical care in Amsterdam?

Amsterdam has an abundance of English-speaking doctors and medical care services targeted towards travelers such as Hoteldoc and Amsterdam Tourist Doctors. For urgent medical care, dial 112 for emergencies or +31 20 570 9500 direct for an ambulance.

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As countries around the world tighten border controls amid concerns over the Omicron COVID-19 variant, Fiji is dialling back its restrictions. The island nation has reopened to fully vaccinated travelers today from partner countries —including visitors from the US, Australia, Canada, the UK, and more. "Fiji is open," the tourist board declared today as the first flight carrying international tourists in almost two years landed in Nadi from Sydney. Fiji is one of the South Pacific's biggest tourist draws but visitors have been mostly kept away since the beginning of the pandemic. Now it's drawing back the curtains and welcoming tourists under relaxed rules.

Fully vaccinated travelers from partner countries—Australia, New Zealand, the US, the UK, the UAE, Canada, Germany, Spain, France, South Korea, Japan, Qatar, Singapore, Switzerland and most Pacific Island countries and territories—have to provide a negative RT-PCR test taken three days before departure. They will also have to stay three nights in an approved resort and undergo rapid testing, but they're free to move around the resort in the meantime and visit beaches, restaurants and to enjoy activities on offer in the resort.

Once visitors have completed their three-day screening at approved resorts, they're free to travel around the island.

On the heels of the grand reopening—the country's national airline, Fiji Airways resumed flights with the US on December 1, allowing overseas leisure travelers entry for the first time in more than 20 months. The carrier is offering daily flights from Los Angeles, five flights a week from San Francisco, and two flights a week from Honolulu. "It’s been almost two years since we welcomed international visitors," tourism minister Faiyaz Koya said in an earlier press release. “And in these two years, we’ve struggled, we’ve adapted, and we’ve prepared."

Read more: The US to consider stricter travel restrictions as fight against Omicron continues

Fiji's partner countries include places where the Omicron variant has been detected such as Australia, Canada and the UK, but the tourism-reliant nation has no plans yet to add more restrictions.

As of December 1, almost 90% of adults in Fiji are fully vaccinated which equates to about 64.7% of the entire population, according to Our World in Data.

For more information on COVID-19 and travel, check out Lonely Planet's Health Hub.

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Fiji has reopened to vaccinated travelers from these countries

As more Omicron cases of COVID-19 are detected worldwide, the US is considering more rigorous testing requirements for tourists and returning Americans.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) could introduce tighter screening for incoming passengers by reducing the timeframe in place for pre-departure tests. Under the current rules, any vaccinated passenger is required to present a negative COVID-19 test within 72 hours of boarding a plane to the US; for unvaccinated passengers it's 24 hours. But under new measures being considered, that timeframe could be reduced to 24 hours for all incoming passengers, regardless of vaccination status.

Read more: Will my health insurance cover getting COVID-19 while traveling in the US⁠⁠—or abroad?

To curb any potential spread of the Omicron variant of COVID-19, which has yet to be detected in the US, the CDC may also recommend that passengers take a second test within three to five days of arrival in the US, though no final decision has been made on either proposal. "As we have done throughout the pandemic, CDC is evaluating how to make international travel as safe as possible, including pre-departure testing closer to the time of flight and considerations around additional post-arrival testing and self-quarantines," CDC Director Rochelle Walensky told a media press briefing on Tuesday.

Read more: What happens if I'm denied entry to a country on arrival?

The decision to re-evaulate travel protocols comes amid concern that the new Omicron strain could be more transmissible than the Delta variant and could evade vaccine protection. The US has already imposed a temporary ban on foreign travelers from South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Lesotho, eSwatini, Mozambique and Malawi, after South Africa detected the new variant on November 24 (though it has since been reported that the variant was already in Europe before the first recording).

A decision on the proposed testing rules for travelers is expected on Thursday. In the meantime, US president Joe Biden has said that " shutdowns or lockdowns" are not in the plan. Instead the focus will be on "widespread vaccinations, boosters, testing and more."

For more information on COVID-19 and travel, check out Lonely Planet's Health Hub.

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If you're traveling to France, here's a guide to understanding what the health pass is, where you need to present it, and how you can apply for it—wherever you're traveling from.

The health pass is compulsory across many places in France and indicates the holder is vaccinated against COVID-19, has recovered, or has tested negative for it within the past 24 hours. It's required of anyone over the age of 12, including residents and tourists, and is expected to be in use until July 31, 2022.

Applying for the health pass is a pretty straightforward process if you're a French citizen or a tourist visiting France who was vaccinated in a country signed up to the EU digital COVID certificate program. Visitors from the UK also have a relatively uncomplicated way of presenting proof through their NHS vaccination certificates. But visitors from elsewhere, including the US, Canada, and Australia, have to pay up to €36 to apply for a French health pass in designated pharmacies when they arrive in France.

Here's what you need to know about applying for it.

Read more: Visiting France with family? Children over 12 must now have a health pass

What is the health pass?

The pass sanitaire (health pass) indicates that the holder has been fully vaccinated against COVID-19 (in France that means one week after the final dose of a Pfizer, Moderna, AstraZeneca or Covishield vaccine course or 28 days after a Johnson & Johnson vaccine), or has tested negative in the past 24 hours with either a PCR or antigen test.

Those vaccinated with Sinopharm or Sinovac can also apply for a French health pass if they have had a single booster dose of either the Pfizer or Moderna vaccines.

Where do I need to present it?

It came into effect on July 21, granting the holder access to any leisure or cultural venue across France with a capacity of more than 50 people, including museums, galleries, theaters, cinemas, concert halls, exhibition spaces, nightclubs, discos, zoos, open-air festivals, sporting venues, theme parks, libraries, swimming pools, and tourist attractions like the Eiffel Tower.

In August, the health pass was extended to restaurants, cafes and bars (both indoors and outdoors), long-distance trains and coaches, domestic flights, hospitals, nursing homes, and large shopping malls. As of September 30, it's required of anyone over the age of 12.

French citizens can upload their vaccination or testing status to the ToutsAntiCovid app, or apply for a paper version with a QR code.

Read more: Do you need a visa to go to France?

How can tourists apply for the health pass?

If you're traveling from the EU or any country signed up to the EU digital COVID cert program, you can present your digital COVID-19 certificate or any approved European health certificate that documents your vaccination or testing status. The French embassy in Germany confirms that if the certificate issued to you appears with a European flag, your certificate is compatible and "will be recognised during [checks] in France in the same way as French certificates."

If you're traveling from the UK, the French government confirmed that people vaccinated in the UK can now import their NHS QR code into the TousAntiCovid app. They can also present a digital or paper NHS certificate showing their full vaccine status as it's now recognized by the EU's digital COVID certificate system.

If you're traveling from the US you must apply in person through a dedicated pharmacy in France when you arrive in the country. You'll be required to pay a fee of up to €36 (about US$44) for the service. However, it's important to note that not all pharmacies offer this service. You might find one easily in cities such as Paris, but as you can see from this map there aren't that many participating pharmacies spread out evenly across France.

When applying, you'll be asked to show your passport and official vaccination certificate (CDC card). The pharmacist will convert the details from that certificate into the French system and provide you with a QR code that can be scanned at venues where the health pass is required.

In the meantime, a number of tourist sites are accepting the CDC vaccination card from American visitors. The Palace of Versailles confirmed to Lonely Planet that Americans are permitted to show their CDC vaccination certificate for entry, and it has been reported that the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre are allowing it too but it is not generally accepted otherwise as a health pass.

If you're traveling from elsewhere, follow the same process that applies to American tourists.

Do I need a booster shot for a valid health pass?

French health secretary, Olivier Véran announced in November that the COVID vaccine booster shot program would open to all adults in France starting from January 15. He advised that people have up to seven months after their second dose to get their booster shot, otherwise they will no longer be considered fully vaccinated under the health pass system. This rule applies to French citizens and residents.

The situation for tourists has not yet been clarified. If you're traveling from an EU country and you are considered fully vaccinated under the EU digital cert program, you'll be able to continue to access venues with it. If you're traveling from elsewhere, the rules could change, but for now you should be fine provided you're up-to-date with your vaccine schedule. Lonely Planet has reached out to the French health ministry for further clarification.

Where can I get tested in France?

Testing is widely available in France in most pharmacies and medical facilities but you'll generally need to make an appointment in advance. Most pharmacies can do antigen tests for about €25, and PCR tests can cost about €45. When using the health pass as an unvaccinated person, your testing status is only valid for 24 hours (reduced from 72 hours as of November 29), which means you'll need to be regularly tested to enter venues. You can find testing locations near you through the COVID testing map.

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