The first time a surfer packs up their board and sets off in search of a new wave is probably the day they realise their favorite break has become too crowded. This was how surf travel started, with adventurous wavehounds scouring the globe for virgin swell, guarding hand-marked nautical maps and saying nothing to anyone. Indeed, surfers have always had a special knack for describing waves, conditions, even the landscape, all without revealing the location (or even the continent) that they’re talking about. But secrets never last – especially surf secrets.

In Lonely Planet's new book, Epic Surf Breaks of the World , professional surfers share what makes these top seven US surfing spots so special to them.

Malibu, California

Former pro Jamie Brisick has traversed the globe in search of swell. Here's why he loves this well-known wave off the coast of Los Angeles. "Located 23 miles (37km) north of LAX, and also known as Surfrider Beach, Malibu is where Gidget (1959) happened. It’s where the great design leap that was the Malibu Chip board – smaller, lighter, more manoeuvrable – happened. It’s where Miki Dora famously dropped his shorts at the judges, media and spectators in the 1967 Malibu Invitational. And it’s where Big Wednesday (1978), set in a fictional Malibu, effectively happened. There might be better-quality waves in California, but nowhere holds more notches in the belt of surf history. "Malibu is a kind of anarchic experiment that somehow works. It teaches us about our surfing selves. I’ve seen terrible fights over waves. I myself have barked at dropper-inners, and fallen into pathetic bouts of wave rage. But over the decades I’ve come to learn that the only way to surf Malibu is with levity. You will get dropped-in on, that’s a simple fact of surfing there. The key is to laugh, to practice humility, to be grateful for whatever little piece of peeling water the wave-gods send your way."

Type of wave: Right-hand point break. First Point is the most machine-like, but Second and Third offer racy, less
crowded peelers.
Things to know: Longboards tend to be the equipment of choice at First Point, shortboards and hybrids at Second and Third. The lineup here is friendly, but respect the crowd.

Mavericks, California

In this excerpt from his book, The Fear Project, Jaimal Yogis recounts his insane journey to surfing and surviving his very first monster wave in California. "I’m a little hesitant to call what happens next letting go. It’s a more primal surrender to whatever outcome – yes, even death – and a simultaneous sharpening of the senses. Instead of feeling weaker by embracing fear, I’m flooded with a surge of power. And as soon as this mental shift comes, I’m almost magically in position. The wave is coming right to me, too fast it seems, but I don’t care. "I turn my board toward land and paddle. Suddenly, I’m on my feet looking over the mountain’s precipice, and when it boosts to full height, the whole ocean hiccups. I scream down the wall so high above me, it’s perfectly surreal. I look over my left shoulder at the houses of whitewater and they are just there, just houses of whitewater. Everything is big and beautiful and fast. I ride a football field of water, thinking nothing at all, the avalanche on my heels. The wave flattens, then reforms into a second frothy bowl. I drop down this ledge, half the size of the original. It slingshots me forward. Then, seeing the wave is going to close, I pull off the back, skimming and skimming and skimming across the flat sea. "Lying down on my board, there’s a moment before I snap out of my trance and realise what has just happened. The fear has dissolved. It will be back, of course, but for now, there is this moment when only faith remains. And I belong here. I belong here, too. And while I don’t know it yet, for weeks, months, even years to come, the memory of this one wave, the raw joy, will permeate my life and alter it."

Cortes Bank, California

Pro big-wave surfer Greg Long is one of the most powerful watermen on the planet and a pioneer in his sport. Here's why Cortes Bank is his number one surfing spot. "Cortes Bank is 100 miles (160km) off the California coast. There’s no landmass in sight. The waves get pulled up from 2000ft below, and then they hit this huge seamount really abruptly. The currents out there are really extreme. Cortes has tons of weird boils and deep spots. I was drawn to it because it was just such an unknown frontier, a bit mysterious, and no one really knew all of its faces. And coming into my 20s, I was looking for the greatest challenge I could find in big-wave surfing. I felt it was possible that I had the greatest big wave in the world right at my back door. Based on its symmetry, I felt it had the potential to hold surfable 100ft waves. "Its unknown is what’s so appealing about it. Your horizon line extends 360 degrees, so you’ve got no reference point as to where you are in the lineup. We actually drop three buoys – one on the inner part of the lineup, one outside and a little bit wide of the channel, and one out back – and use those as points of reference. Often things go bizarrely quiet – just this stillness that literally makes you feel like you’re on the edge of the earth."

Type of wave: The Cortes Bank A-frame breaks off an underwater island. Locals believe that in the right swell
conditions, it could hold a rideable 100ft (30m) wave.
Things to know: This is a wave for the world’s best bigwave surfers only. It starts and ends in water deeper than
1000ft (300m), and waves here are reported to move 50% faster than those on the North Shore of Hawaii, making
paddling into them almost impossible. Instead, most surfers get towed into them on a Jet Ski.

Sunset Beach, Hawaii

O‘ahu’s North Shore, Hawaii, is surfing’s ultimate testing ground. Beau Flemister says his lifetime of sessions at Sunset are what define him as a surfer. "I wanted to ride a big board and challenge myself – and for that, there’s always good ol’ Sunset Beach, the OG of big-wave surf spots, a spot that can hold a wave bigger than 12ft (Hawaiian size) without closing out. The thing about surfing Sunset Beach on a bigger day is that whether you actually catch a set wave or get your ass handed to you, you always feel like you’ve accomplished something. You were out there that day, a feat in itself. "Predictably unpredictable, straying from the relative safety of a giant channel, the playing field out at Sunset is just as they say – way larger than it looks. Be it the currents, the shifting peaks or the utter space in the lineup, it’s easy to get lost out there. Whereas, at 10ft Pipe, you can avoid the peak and dip in and out of the pack from the channel, 10ft Sunset has a way of sneaking up on you – like a truck rounding a corner when you thought it was safe to cross. Many say that a 12ft day at Sunset is more hectic than an 18ft day at Waimea Bay."

Type of wave: A powerful, consistent right-hand reef break.
Things to know: A bigger board – over 8ft – is recommended. Not only is it fun, but you’ll catch more waves. It’s very easy to get caught inside at Sunset, because the waves move fast. If you paddle for a wave here, commit.

Outer Banks, North Carolina

The East Coast of the US has plenty of great waves. But none, says Matt Pruett, have the raw power and wild setting of those that break off North Carolina’s barrier islands. "As a teenage transplant in the early 1990s, I was seduced. The Outer Banks to me back then was romantic. It was punk. It was haunting. But perhaps more important than anything else, it was where I first got barreled. Tubed. Pitted. Slotted. Piped. Shacked… Whatever you want to call it, getting barreled is the absolute zenith of the surfing experience, and a milestone for any grommet. Before experiencing my first legit tube at Rodanthe Pier that day – getting behind the curtain, over the foam ball, out with the spit – I was just another kook from Virginia. Immediately afterward, however, I remember thinking to myself: ‘I’m gonna move here.’ I even remember whispering to myself ‘then live here until I die.’ "I can’t remember the exact high school melodrama that had me so edgy that day, but whatever it was got swiftly silenced in sea foam, drowned in heaving saltwater and smashed to detritus atop a shallow sandbar. The thrills were nonstop. Every time I surfed, my wave count was through the roof. And I wasn’t even very good yet. Nevertheless, these heaving emerald bombs detonated all around me, equally grotesque and gorgeous, with no one mining them but me. I never saw another surfer all day long."

Type of wave: Beach breaks.
Things to know: Bring all your wetsuit gear, regardless of season. The upwelling that often accompanies summertime offshores can cause water temperatures in the Outer Banks to plummet. Also, a gunnier surfboard with a bit more volume up front might help for taking steep, late drops.

Trestles, California

Southern California ’s premiere high-performance wave is so good that the entire American surf industry wanted to be near it. Chris Dixon came chasing the same dream. "Middles became my go-to. It’s less consistent, but it’s also less crowded, and the vibe is mellow. One clear winter morning in 1999, I paddled out at Middles before dawn. Save for a small pod of dolphins, I was all alone. The biggest set waves were about 3ft overhead, but thanks to the warm Santa Ana winds howling offshore, they were throwing out perfect almond-eyed barrels. "Out on the horizon, a big North Pacific set reared up. Sprinting hard, I narrowly scratched over the first wave; 12 strokes behind it loomed the wave I’d been waiting for all my life. As I dug for it atop an undersized 6’2” thruster, I remember catching a glimpse of the snowcapped Santiago Peak to the east. I was blinded by the spray, taking off by feel alone. Then my vision cleared as I went into freefall with the lip. I was terrified my fins would fail to hold as I reached the wave’s trough. But they did. The curl of the wave arced over my head. Then 3ft (1m) ahead, a pair of dolphins launched out of the wave’s translucent face. I hollered and laid turn after parabolic turn as the wave unspooled for 500ft. It was – and remains – the best wave I had ever surfed."

Type of wave: Left- and right-hand point breaks.
Things to know: Since the waves at Middles and Church typically move more slowly than the others, they’re better for bigger boards. If you surf a longboard at Lowers, you’ll get barked at if you use it to hog the waves. If Trestles is packed, head south on Pacific Coast Hwy to the Trails beaches.

Ditch Plains, New York

Just a few hours east of New York City, Montauk is a surf town like no other, with a surprisingly great point break. Chas Smith soaks in the over-the-top scene. "A broad stretch of sandy beach that draws the most consistent swell on Long Island, Ditch Plains has been a surfing mecca, of sorts, since the early 1960s. In summer, the waves are silky, warm and predictably packed; in winter, they are mind-bendingly freezing, but can get ridiculously good. And the scene in the water is as entertaining as on land: I once found myself in the lineup with five male models who were in town celebrating a famous Hollywood producer friend’s 40th birthday. The models wanted to go surfing, so I took them. I also took their waves, while they struggled with their 9ft soft-tops. "At Ditch, hardcore locals mix fluidly with Rolex-wearing stockbrokers, who drop in on runway models wearing Rip Curl trucker hats and pastel springsuits. It is the sort of crowd that would infuriate you elsewhere. But for some reason, here in Montauk, it is an endlessly fun cross-section of surf culture: real surfers, fake surfers, non-surfers, aspiring surfers."

Type of wave: Rock-reef A-frames.
Things to know: Ditch Plains is the wave that is easiest to access and breaks most consistently, making it wildly, seriously crowded in warm summer months. Like, seriously crowded. Enjoy the party, and party-waves.

Want more surf secrets from the US and beyond? These excerpts are from Lonely Planet's new book Epic Surf Breaks of the World , available to order now.

The most epic surf spots in the US according to pros

Leery of air travel, trains, and public transit as the COVID-19 pandemic continues, many would-be vacationers are returning to the time-honored road trip when they need a change of scenery. According to a recent survey by the US Travel Association and MMGY Travel Intelligence, 73 percent of respondents said they were likely to travel by car in the next six months, and 68 percent said they “continue to feel safest when traveling by personal vehicle.”

If you’re eying the open road, whether in your own vehicle or a rental, whether you’re planning on staying in hotels or cozying up in a glampground, we’ve got a few tips on how to plan a socially distanced road trip that will put your mind at ease.

Our editors independently select the best products to help you have amazing travel experiences. If you purchase through links on our site, Lonely Planet may earn a commission from the retailer.

Cars, vans, and RV rentals

If you’re planning to take your own car on your road trip, that simplifies your planning quite a bit. You’ll want to do the usual pre-trip maintenance, of course, like making sure you’re up to date on oil changes. Sanitize high-touch point areas like door handles, the steering column and controls, the stick shift, etc. It also doesn't hurt to keep wipes and paper towels close at hand in the cabin to keep up with cleaning along the way.

If you’re renting a car, you can also rest assured it’s been well-cleaned by the rental company – but following the same steps as if it were your own vehicle can add to your peace of mind. Most rental car companies have stepped up detailing between drivers, especially on high-touch points of the car, and have outlined their sanitary processes online. You can also research which car hire companies have contactless pickup (like Silvercar by Audi), curbside pickup (like Enterprise) or even delivery (like Hertz) to maximize social distancing.

Another option is to combine transportation and lodging by upgrading from a car to an RV, camper van, or travel trailer for your road trip. Services like Outdoorsy let you book the right camper for your needs, from modest travel trailers to big fifth-wheel rigs – and you might be surprised how affordable your options are.

Be sure to inquire about the car hire’s roadside assistance policies, or if you’re driving your own vehicle, consider signing up for a AAA membership in case you have a breakdown, flat tire, or run out of gas. Having someone you can call in case of mishap reduces your reliance on strangers, and organizations like AAA have a wealth of information on COVID-related travel restrictions state-to-state and even at popular destinations like theme parks.

Plan where to stay

There are a bevy of options when it comes to road trip lodging. You can seek out a social-distancing friendly hotel with features like an exterior entrance or included kitchenette, reducing contact with others. On the other end of the spectrum, RV or caravan sites are plentiful in both the United States and Europe and can easily be reserved through services like Campsited.

Many travelers have been opting for vacation rentals that give them exclusive access to a property, as well as the ability to cook on site and spread out. In fact, the US Travel Association and MMGY Travel Intelligence survey found travelers' interest in booking a vacation home is at an all-time high, with nearly a third of travelers considering this option.

If you’re considering camping, you’ll only need to book sites along your route and at your destination. Look especially for sites near water spigots or outhouses to make hand washing even easier, as well as sites that are larger or more removed from your neighbors.

No camping gear? No sweat – some services like Tentrr offer “ Signature Sites ” pre-prepped with almost everything you need. These privately hosted campsites have another advantage over the first-come-first-served and bookable campsites on public lands, too – the hosts offer a higher level of service during the pandemic, including making sure you have enough potable water (and in some cases, disinfecting supplies) to stay extra squeaky clean during your stay.

Plan your road trip gear

Depending on whether you’re going by car or RV, camping or staying in hotels, you might want to pick up a few pieces of gear to reduce the number of stops you need to make in public indoor spaces. A backpack cooler, for example is easy to transfer from car to stops along the way, isn’t as bulky as a hard-sided model, and can keep food and drinks cold for up to 24 hours. A small caddy for your emergency and cleaning supplies can also help you stay organized, and reusable silicon squeeze bottles can keep you flush with soap or hand sanitizer.

If you’re really committed to avoiding rest stops, a hitch-mounted toilet seat can turn your back bumper and a five-gallon bucket into a backcountry bathroom, as long as you don’t mind getting creative about where you park when nature calls. Meanwhile, a solar shower enclosure can double as a place to change clothes if you’re camping or using a travel trailer, and a jerry can with a built-in spigot can make washing your hands a snap, no matter where you roam.

Many road trippers opt to pre-plan their meals and pack all the necessary ingredients ahead of time to reduce grocery store trips or stops at restaurants that might increase their risk. That’s especially easy on shorter trips, but even if you’re on an extended vacation, you can make cooking from your car a snap. Depending on the type of trip you have planned, there’s a number of handy pieces of outdoor kitchen gear for car campers and cooking equipment for RVers that can make meal prep delicious at a distance.

Map your route

Once you’ve decided the vehicle you want to drive, what type of lodging you’re up for and what kind of gear you might need to stay comfortable along the way, it’s clearer what kind of route you should chart. For example, you’ll have a sense of whether you want to stick to interstates where you’re likely to find hotels, gas, and restaurants every few exits, or prefer to stick to scenic highways and country back roads that are more remote.

As you plot your route, you can start to plan ahead for the services you might need along the way, from RV hookups to manage your water and waste tanks to grocery stores. A little extra research before hand can help you narrow down your options even further, pinpointing the locations of stores that offer curbside pickup or businesses equipped with drive-thrus, as well as what the local regulations are for things like masks and curfews. You can also use resources like the John Hopkins US COVID-19 map or the New York Times maps for several countries around the world to figure out down to the county or province which paths are most likely to take you through high-risk areas.

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From rental cars to roadside stops - these are the new pandemic road trip essentials

Nearly eight months into the COVID-19 pandemic, people are slowly beginning to travel again, with road trips up and global air travel starting to creep back. While not everyone is comfortable getting on a plane just yet – in an International Air Transportation Association survey conducted from February to June, 58% reported they’ve been avoiding air travel – airlines have put into place new safety protocols, including updating air filters, blocking out the middle seat to allow for easier social distancing, and mandating that all passengers wear a mask.

Nowadays, there’s a sea of mask options available, so choose one that’s equal parts functional and comfortable. Below, find nine of the best masks for air travel, keeping you covered from security check to baggage claim and beyond.

Gap

At $5 each (€4), Gap’s triple-layer cotton masks are breathable and, thanks to the built-in nose wire, fit snuggly. Plus, the pleated design expands to comfortably cover a range of face shapes. They come in packs of three or 10, and are available in family sets, bundled with sizes for both adults and kids.

Smoko

The Los Angeles-based accessory company specializes in all things cute, and its new masks are no exception. Face coverings in avocado, boba tea, or sushi-splashed prints are also supremely functional, with a HEPA filter pocket (not included, find one on Amazon), adjustable ear straps and a removable wire nose bridge insert for a more comfortable fit. They cost $14 (€12) for each adult- or child-sized mask.

Tom Bihn

Like so many other companies, the Seattle-based travel bag manufacturer has gotten into the face mask business. Tom Bihn’s are a little different, though, with a meticulously thoughtful design that stays comfortable after hours of wear. (The team making the masks wears them in the factory all day.) These quick-drying masks come in two sizes, and feature smart design elements like especially soft and durable ear straps, and a bendable nose bridge fitted with a removable, standard twist tie (like the ones that close plastic bread bags.) Plus, they published the mask pattern with how-to video online, and for every mask sold, the company donates one to a person in need, transparently tracking their donations with a public spreadsheet. The cost is $13 (€11) per mask.

Wolford

The Austrian label known for luxe legwear and lingerie is, unsurprisingly, making a stylish and splurge-worthy face mask for high-fliers. The sleek black mask is made with two layers of high-quality, moisture-wicking fabric, an adaptable nose wire, and extra-thin elastic ear bands. Before packaging the masks up, they’re treated with UV light to kill viruses and germs. Expect to pay $35 (€30) per mask.

Old Navy

Gap’s budget-friendly sister brand sells packs of 10 face masks for $25 (€21), or $2.50 each. At half the price, they’re still made of breathable, 100% cotton poplin, and have the same pleated design to adapt to (and still cover) tiny faces, making them an especially good pick for kids. The lower price point means stocking up for travel or school is easier on the wallet, and the wide range of fun, colorful patterns makes convincing your tot to use one a little easier.

Buff

Buff has been selling its “multifunctional headwear” – ie a versatile neck gaiter used by outdoors and sporting enthusiasts as a headband, neck warmer, face covering, etc – long before COVID. But with mask mandates in effect in most places, it’s been adopted by runners and anyone else looking for a supremely comfortable way to adhere. The moisture-wicking fabric is UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) 50, so it protects against sunburn (or chilly cabin temps). They cost $20 (€17) per mask.

Editor's note: A recent study has called into question the effectiveness of gaiters at stopping aerosol droplets.

Athleta

The activewear company specializes in moveable, breathable clothing, so it makes sense it also makes a thoughtfully designed mask. A mesh inner layer is soft on the skin, while a Spandex and Polyester-blend outer layer is lightweight and washable. A disposable filter can be tucked inside the mask’s hidden pocket (not included), and the ingenious ear straps include an extra head strap that can be attached to take pressure off the ear loops, making wearing this for hours a breeze. The cost is $25 (€21) for three masks.

Everlane

Double-layer masks feature a face-hugging layer made of uber-soft cotton jersey and an upper layer of thick, durable knit made from a blend of cotton, linen, and rayon. Designs are available in cool and classic stripes. For each five-pack sold, Everlane will donate 10% to the non-profit American Civil Liberties Union. These are $25 (€21) for five masks.

Etsy

Hundreds of sellers sewing up sturdy, well-made masks are part of Etsy, the international marketplace for handcrafted goods. One is Breezemountain8, with over 1000 five-star reviews for their four-layer cotton masks designed with a nose wire and filter pocket. Users note they’re both comfortable and stylish, with options that include subdued solid shades and lovely floral patterns. These start at $13 (€11) per mask.

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9 of the most breathable masks for traveling

Whether you’re a cold-weather camper, a summer backpacking fanatic, or a cross-country road tripper, finding the perfect campground can be a challenge, especially when it comes to maximizing your scenery and minimizing the crowds.

While it’s easiest to visit the campgrounds that are already well-traveled, a little willingness to go off the beaten path goes a long way in the outdoors, and it can often pay dividends in the form of untouched views and quiet spots from which to take in the wilderness.

For scenery-hungry campers, here are a handful of the most scenic campgrounds in the country. While a few of our favorite spots are located within popular national parks, most of the campgrounds offer some form of solitude from the main drag (read: Yosemite Valley) while still being ridiculously scenic, and a handful are open year-round.

Note: during the COVID-19 pandemic, be sure to follow the latest government guidance and check availability at your chosen campsite before departure.

Bartlett Cove, Alaska

Set in the iconic Glacier Bay National Park, Bartlett Cove is a beach-camper’s dream. With spectacular views of the crystal blue glacial water and the promised seclusion of a hike-in camping destination, this remote campground consistently impresses on all fronts.

The campground itself is free, and offers visitors the chance to kayak the chilly waters of Glacier Bay as well as hike in the thick forest that covers the shoreline. It’s Alaska at its finest, and certainly its most scenic. Visit Bartlett Cove in the summertime to secure the longest days and the best views, without the threat of icy cold temperatures of accumulating snow and ice.

Silver Bell Campground, Colorado

Located outside of Aspen, Colorado, Silver Bell Campground is among the country’s finest when it comes to scenery and accessibility. With just 14 sites, the campground remains relatively quiet year-round, but still manages to provide guests with once-in-a-lifetime views of aspen groves, Maroon Creek, and the ever-spectacular Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness.

Eager wildlife watchers can catch bighorn sheep, pika, and other alpine critters with the backdrop of the 14,000ft Elk Mountains to boot. Visit Silver Bell in the late-summer season, or even the early fall, and watch as the aspens turn to gold around your campsite. It’ll be your profile pic for life!

Bolan Mountain Fire Lookout, Oregon

Fire lookouts are notoriously scenic, often standing thousands of feet above the surrounding territory and providing unparalleled access to scarce-traveled land. Bolan Mountain may just be the Pacific Northwest ’s most scenic campsite, as the structure rises nearly 40ft into the sky, and features a full 360 degree view of the Siskiyou Mountains. After the original structure was replaced in 1953, full-paneled glass windows were built into the lookout tower, expanding both visibility and camper appeal.

Available for rent during the snow-free season, this simple and remote fire lookout offers guests the chance to live among epic scenery 24/7, whether it’s the views of Bolan Lake, Mount Shasta all the way to the south, or the panorama of stars that make an appearance each night. Reserve Bolan Mountain six-months ahead of time to be sure you get the weekend you want. Mid-July is ideal, when the temps are modest and the threat of rain is at its lowest.

Haleakala backcountry, Hawaii

If you’ve ever done the famous Haleakala sunrise tour, then you know what’s in store for backpackers willing to go a little bit further to catch those stunning views. If not, Mark Twain may have summed up the sight of a rosy tropical dawn rising over this stunning volcanic crater best when he said it was “the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed.”

Contrary to what most visitors might think, you aren't limited to day hiking, either. The Haleakala backcountry also offers prime camping, with utterly unique views of sliding sand, jutting rock cliffs, and rich vegetation. Grab a permit from the visitor center and set off on your island adventure to the hike-in sites and wilderness cabins. Visit this area in the late spring or early fall to avoid the highest temperatures and most of the rainy season.

Assateague Islands, Maryland

One of the world’s most unique camping environments, Maryland’s Assateague Islands are a designated National Seashore, meaning that this little slice of east coast heaven is as pristine as it gets for scenic camping. The position and relatively scarce tree-cover on the islands provide epic views across miles of ocean, and the walk-up or drive-up beachfront sites ensure that your view is never a matter of competition.

The islands are not only home to ever-shifting sands (as barrier islands, they are constantly moving as a result of strong waves and winds), but also a bountiful band of wild horses, which attract sightseers from across the country. The Assateague Islands are open year-round, but are best experienced in the late summer and into the fall, when temperatures are still warm enough to explore during the day, but cool enough to be pleasant for the evening, waterline sunsets.

San Juan Islands, Washington

If you’re looking for the ideal balance between solitude and scenery, the San Juan Islands may just be your new favorite place. Jutting out of the chilly Pacific between Canada and Seattle, these islands are accessed by boat or float plane, which means that their scenic beauty and unique outdoor offerings are not quite as overrun as most of the Pacific Northwest’s iconic outdoor destinations.

Between soaring bald eagles, resident orca pods, and miles of virtually untouched shoreline, camping on the San Juan Islands is a wilderness lover’s dream. Whether you choose to camp in Friday Harbor, the most popular (and accessible) part of the San Juan Islands, or you opt to make the backcountry kayak trek to Jones Island, the 188 acre Marine State Park that is part of the San Juans, you’ll be greeted with enough scenery to last a lifetime.

While the best time to visit the San Juans is during the summer, April and October are often slightly less-crowded, but still offer the chance to view migrating orca pods and enjoy the island’s best hikes in dry weather.

Caladesi Island, Florida

Among the most underrated campgrounds in the country, the iconic, yet rarely-visited Caladesi Island State Park is a bonafide wonderland for campers seeking the perfect combination of epic views, relaxing beach time, and winding hiking trails. Located on the northwest side of the Floridian peninsula, Caladesi Island is a boat-only destination, making it an easy choice for folks hoping to escape the majority of the coastal crowds.

As one of the only untouched regions on the Gulf Coast, the island is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to spend time in a well-maintained, protected area featuring meandering, beach-front trails, wildlife watching, and premium kayaking and swimming opportunities. The crystal clear ocean and abundant natural flora and fauna make Caladesi Island a top choice for scenery-driven campers. Visit the Caladesi Islands in April or May, before the southern summer heat kicks in, and well before peak hurricane season.

Tuolumne Meadows Campground, California

While slightly more populated than some of the other campgrounds on this list, Tuolumne Meadows manages to capture the best of Yosemite National Park’s soaring granite walls and cascading waterfalls without the pressing crowds of Yosemite Valley. Enjoy local trails that transport you to epic views, or visit Tenaya Lake after for the perfect summer picnic and the chance to swim, canoe, or relax on its comfortable beaches.

At 8600ft, this campground provides sweeping views of the trademark Sierra Nevada subalpine meadows, including, in the summertime, gorgeous wildflowers that sprout along the banks of the Tuolumne River beneath towering granite domes for which Yosemite is so well known. Tuolumne Meadows is closed for the 2020 summer season, but start planning now for a trip for in late summer 2021, when the rivers are full, the waterfalls flowing, and the wildflowers are in full bloom.

Mount Pisgah, North Carolina

When it comes to Mount Pisgah, it’s not just the campground that inspires awe in its visitors, but the road in, too. Dubbed "America’s favorite drive," the Blue Ridge Parkway escorts visitors through some of the southeast’s finest terrain – sky-high blue spruce, varying mountain peaks, and bright wildflowers – before reaching Mount Pisgah Campground (temporarily closed at the time of publication).

Although not a remote campground, per se, Mount Pisgah offers guests the chance to stay in close proximity to Great Smoky Mountains National Park without staying directly in the crowded park campgrounds. In addition, the campground provides premium access to dozens of trails featuring some of the region’s most beautiful wilderness.

At just under 5000ft in elevation, Mount Pisgah itself offers cooler temperatures throughout the hot summer months and an all-encompassing view of surrounding Appalachian territory. Visit here in the early summer to beat the heaviest GSMNP crowds and still savor the late spring alpine blooms.

North Rim Campground, Arizona

It may be closed at this time with no opening date confirmed, but we’d be remiss if we didn’t include at least one campground in the vicinity of one of the most fantastic natural spectacles of all-time. For decades, visitors to the Grand Canyon have stood in awe before the stretching landscape of red rock, coursing river, and high desert flora and fauna. The North Rim Campground allows visitors to sleep on the plateau of land separating Roaring Springs Canyon and Transept Canyon, bordered by the famous North Rim Transept Trail.

Guests lucky enough to snag a spot at this long-coveted campground will be treated to unearthly sunrises as light streams into the canyon in the early mornings, as well as world-class stargazing. Sites at the North Rim campground usually book up fast, but the campground itself is open from the middle of May into late October. Visit during the fall if you’re hoping to beat the summer temps (and the bulk of the crowds).

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Article first published in February 2020, and last updated in August 2020

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10 of the most scenic campgrounds in the US

My first visit to Beirut was something of an unplanned detour. Twenty years ago in Damascus I took an impromptu shared taxi between the two capitals, armed with little more than a flyer for a cheap hotel in the Hamra district that a fellow backpacker had given me.

That trip was the start of an immediate and long-lasting love affair. I joined the promenading crowds on the Corniche that runs alongside the Mediterranean, and browsed for books in the beautiful campus of the American University of Beirut. Best of all was the food – thick creamy bowls of hummus topped with pine nuts, greasy shawarma kebabs and green, parsley-capped mountains of tabbouleh that seemed to cost pennies.

Still, I could never have imagined that I would move to Beirut two decades later, or – by improbable coincidence – that I would do so with a partner who had been living in the city during my first visit, working as a reporter on the city's only English-language newspaper. Our home is a five-minute walk from her old apartment in Gemmayzeh, and when she walked back into her old local restaurant after a break of 18 years, the manager still remembered her favorite dish. Beirut is like that.

As a guidebook writer for Lonely Planet, it's my job to capture the essence of a destination as well as its sights. I can wax lyrical about the beautiful coastal view over Pigeon Rocks at Raouche, ideally while enjoying a mezze and a chilled glass of local wine at Al Falamanki restaurant. Or I can enthuse about the extraordinary collection of 20th century Lebanese art at the jewel-box-like Sursock Museum, or the incredible restaurants tucked away in Monot, Clemenceau or Badaro.

But as the city comes to grip with the tragedy of the August 4 explosions, I’d like to take you on a tour of one of the oldest cities in the world and explain not only my love affair with Beirut, but why this ancient, diverse, eternally charming metropolis will surely rebuild.

In this personal guidebook, I'd put pride of place to the antique shops and junk stores of the Basta district. An otherwise unremarkable corner of the city tucked between a busy raised highway and a cemetery, it's the perfect place for treasure hunters. The best shop owners ply you with tiny cups of bitter coffee while you browse, then offer you tinplate advertising placards for long-defunct brands of beer, colored lithographs from 19th century Parisian newspapers, and lurid posters for old Omar Sharif movies.

For refreshments we'd take in the homemade ice cream at Hana Mitri, a tiny shop in an old stone building that's been a family business for decades, and claims to have closed only for one day during the 15 years of civil war. While we're queuing – there's always a queue – you might notice the bullet holes on the outside walls, nod at their dedication to the perfect aromatic rose water ice, and then eat the most eye-watering lemon sorbet.

I'd then take you to Mar Mikhael, where many of the signs are still written in Armenian. There's a picture framer here where you can nose through what other people are hanging on their walls, and it might take you a moment to work out why the owners welcome you with smudged gray on their foreheads, until you realize they've just returned from an Ash Wednesday service.

Perhaps later we'd head to downtown Beirut. We'd go to The Egg, a derelict cinema on the fringes of the area that just missed out on the rebuilding. Named for its concrete Brutalist shape, it symbolized the lost optimism of the early 1970s. But in October 2019 it was taken over as part of the thawra (revolution) street protests against government corruption. Used for activism teach-ins, it now stands covered with bright graffiti, echoing the brilliant potential of Lebanon's youth.

Indeed, Beirut has some of the most vibrant street artists in the region, and if we had time I'd take you on a walking tour to tell you the stories behind some of the best. We'll look out for pieces by Yazan Halwani, whose giant portraits of Lebanese icons are surrounded by soft clouds of Arabic calligraphy. My favorite, however, is the enormous mural of an astronaut planting the Lebanese flag on the moon while eating a slice of manakeesh (a baked flatbread with olive oil and a spice mixture called za'atar) – a cheeky nod to the urban myth that Neil Armstrong was secretly Lebanese himself.

Finally, as we look out across Martyr's Square, and its twin monuments to both Lebanese independence from the Ottomans and the thawra movement a hundred years later, I'd tell you about the joyful sea of flags that flooded the city that October month last year, and the streams of families walking below our apartment's balcony to be part of the great unifying Lebanese spirit. I'd point out the site of the community kitchens, the DJ sound systems, and the stand where kids could get their faces painted with the Lebanese flag. I'd tell you about the great coming together of all of Lebanon's diverse communities – and remember that that strong sense of national identity is the foundation on which Beirut's recovery will be built.

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Why I love Beirut

After four months of working from home, Jack Boswell was dreaming of distant shores and wondering, "If I was a thousand miles away, would my boss even know the difference?" For better or worse, he is putting that question to the test.

Like many people fortunate enough to still have their job, I found my kitchen table converted into a cluttered conference room. I had been interested in flexible working but my employer is less cutting edge, more cutting the figure of an octogenarian trying to use the self-checkout. I shouldn’t be facetious. I love the place and there are good people whose lives have been capsized by the economic waterfall over which we’ve plummeted.

Andalucían hills from his work station   © Jack Boswell" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings="{"image_style":"","image_link":""}" data-entity-type="media" data-entity-uuid="fa94baca-921c-470e-872e-190063f9a369" data-langcode="en" title="Laptop with view .jpg">

Nevertheless, the ten second commute was a welcome change. I was able to structure my days in more fulfilling ways, which did wonders for my mental health. I could fit in mini walks, calls with my grandma or a sourdough-kneading session. (Yes, I’m one of those people). But the itch to travel remained. For months, I questioned how best to to see the world when borders reopened, if I’d even want to. Having road-tripped around the US, I began to think perhaps driving was the safest way of traveling in Europe if I was to avoid packed trains and planes.

My girlfriend needed no convincing, and we booked a small outbuilding on an isolated citrus farm in the Andalucían hills of southern Spain. Whilst she was brave enough to run it past her boss, I kept it to myself. We’d been told to work from home but the saying goes, "home is where the heart is" and my heart was in Andalucía. We’ve all heard of the"digital nomad" but I wanted to test how compatible that lifestyle is with more traditional 9 to 5s. I wanted to become a secret nomad.

There would be obstacles to overcome. The greatest was team drinks, which takes place by video each week. Several colleagues had commented on the decor in my flat, but I wasn’t sweating it. I had a plan.

As we set off in my tiny Fiat 500, I grappled with feelings of guilt at traveling too soon. Was it irresponsible to go abroad and risk spreading the virus? We reminded ourselves that, over the 550 mile drive to our first stop in Angoulême in southwestern France, we would come face-to-face with fewer people than on a single supermarket outing in Camden Town. Arriving at the Eurotunnel, we joined a line of cars snaking back-and-forth like a steel python. Clearly we weren’t the only ones swapping a crammed flight for the comforting bubble of our car.

Our first day "on the job", I was overcome by nervous excitement. New life was breathed into mundane tasks like sifting through emails when juxtaposed with the medieval city outside our windows. I counted down the minutes to my morning catch up. Whilst the ringing tone of a phone would give away I was in Europe, internet calling sounds the same across the globe. I really like my boss and didn’t want to deceive her, so I committed to a policy of "partial honesty". When asked about my weekend, I gave truthful answers like, "I went for a long drive", leaving out the minor detail it had taken ten hours and involved crossing borders.

On evening walks, we passed through Place du Palet, where locals sat outside cafes sipping rosé nonchalantly. Having spent months scrubbing our groceries after each shop, the thought of sitting in a restaurant felt reckless. Much as we would have loved to join them, the purpose of the trip was to travel whilst staying away from the potential dangers of the re-opening world.

We left Angoulême, cheered on by sunflower meadows and crossed into Spain, winding through the verdant contours of the Pyrenees. The mountains began to taper off as we moved south and deep greens gave way to the hazier shades of a more arid landscape. After spending a night in the hills north of Madrid – carefully disinfecting our hotel room – we rose early and hotfooted it south to Andalucía.

Olive groves greeted us, stretching into the distance as if they were a patterned cloth draped gently over the hillsides. Arriving in the small town of Casarabonela, we met our hosts and followed them up a dusty track to their farm, nestled high outside the town. This would be home for the next six weeks.

Though the reality of work soon returned, there were enough changes to my routine that the novelty didn’t wear off. In the mornings, we wandered through citrus groves, picking beautifully misshapen oranges and lemons – no supermarket perfection here. During the day, I worked outside despite the 95ºF (35ºC) heat. If I felt a seed of stress beginning to put down roots, I took a breath and gazed out at the white fincas dotting the landscape. The intrusive sound of cicadas meant phone calls had to happen inside – judging from the unrelenting level of their mating chirps, I could only assume I was staying on a particularly sex-starved hillside.

There was only one thing which could bring my new life crashing down around me: team drinks. Alongside the luggage stuffed in the car was a large print of Georgia O’Keefe’s Ritz Tower, Night which I’d bought from her retrospective at the Tate Modern. It had hung on my living room wall throughout lockdown and was the most distinctive part of my background on video calls. I planned to place it behind me to smooth the transition and stave off suspicion from colleagues. Though I felt guilty at the concerted attempt to conceal my whereabouts, I couldn’t resist introducing a little farce. My colleagues are all good-natured and I hoped they would see the humor in it when I finally came clean. Not wanting to put a nail in the wall, I propped the painting on a large pot. As 5pm approached, I checked the weather in London and pulled a grey jumper over my pastel-pink t-shirt. It was hot in Andalucía but I needed to fit in with the English climate. My colleagues seemed none the wiser, until I shuffled to re-adjust myself and knocked the pot by mistake, sending the painting tumbling out of view. I fumbled for an excuse. Whether they believed me remains to be seen.

It’s been a month since we left England. There’s been no impact on the quality of my work and it feels like the right time to come clean. I’ll be the first to admit this experiment isn’t open to everybody. It’s hard not to feel guilty when I think of a close friend who spent months treating patients in hospital, covered in PPE. I’m lucky I could work remotely, didn’t have commitments tying me to home and found someone to sublet my flat for a month.

Soon, I will speak to my boss and face the music. But can the organization really conjure a compelling reason why I should return to my desk, lit by fluorescent lighting panels, after I’ve worked under a canopy of blue sky with no discernible difference? Who knows, maybe my boss had a similar plan herself and I’ll bump into her walking along the dusty track. Either way, I hope this emergency health measure becomes a permanent way of life for many of us. Wish me luck.

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Don't tell the boss: holding down an office job while secretly traveling Europe

With 1777km of indented coast on the mainland and a further 4058km edging its 1246 islands and islets, Croatia has no shortage of beaches.

Many are rocky, some are sandy and others are lined with smooth, white pebbles, but all are lapped by the warm, clear waters of the Adriatic. It would be an exaggeration to say that there’s something for everyone – surfers should look elsewhere – but most people should find something on this list to suit their holiday needs.

Please check local restrictions before planning any trip and always follow government health advice.

Zlatni Rat

Best for inducing Instagram envy
Zlatni Rat is preposterously good looking, so much so that it adorns every other tourist poster promoting the Dalmatian Coast. It consists of a narrow triangle of tiny pebbles that extends elegantly out to sea, earning it the name ‘golden cape’. Situated on the island of Brač, it’s connected to the petite town of Bol by a shady pine-lined promenade, dotted with stands touting a wide variety of activities, including windsurfing, parasailing, diving, kayaking, mountain biking and boat excursions.

Prapratno

Best for sand and swims
Many of Croatia’s sandy beaches are so painfully shallow that you need to wade out for ages to get a decent swim, but not Prapratno. It occupies a sheltered bay at the start of the Pelješac Peninsula, near where the ferries leave for the island of Korčula. Amazingly, it’s not overly developed. There’s a campground and a few shops and restaurants near the beach, and some holiday-apartment blocks scattered around, but that’s about it. Only 4km away, the small town of Ston is famous for both its seafood restaurants and its remarkable 5.5km-long 14th-century walls.

Paradise Beach

Best for young kids
In contrast to Prapratno, this large sandy bay flanking the village of Lopar on the island of Rab is extremely shallow. It’s gorgeous, though, and your kids will happily exhaust themselves racing between their sandcastles and the warm, almost bath-like waters, while you gaze on from your recliner. Lopar is a sleepy place in the off-season but come summer, the park lining the beach is dotted with gelato stands, beach cafes and kiosks selling kids' beach essentials.

Stiniva

Best for boaters
The island of Vis is the farthest-flung of the main Dalmatian islands. It’s a magical place, with only a couple of small towns, a sparsely populated interior and a shoreline indented with isolated coves. The most strikingly beautiful of them is Stiniva, surrounded by a near-circle of rocky cliffs, with only a narrow opening to the sea. It can be reached by an extremely rough track leading down from a remote backroad, but it’s much easier to get here by boat. Yachts moor beyond the opening and their passengers swim through to the sheltered white-pebble beach where a lone cafe serves cold drinks, snacks and ice creams to the determined souls who make it here. If you left the yacht at home, it’s possible to catch a taxi boat from the nearby village of Rukavac.

Zrće Beach

Best for clubbers
The polar opposite of Stiniva, Zrće Beach is large, easy-to-access, amped up and offers little shade. But if you’re under 30 and ready to party, this is absolutely the place to be. In recent years, Zrće’s beachfront clubs have taken up residency on DJ Mag’s prestigious annual Top 100 Clubs list. From June to September the ‘Ibiza of Croatia’ fires up, with festivals, themed party weekends and guest slots from superstar DJs. You’ll find the beach near the town of Novalja on the sun-scorched island of Pag, which is joined to the northern Dalmatian mainland by a bridge.

Dubovica

Best for respite between drinks
Zrće attracts the clubby crowd, but Hvar Town, on the island of the same name, has a long-held reputation as Croatia’s fun-loving party town. Sundowners by the beach quickly transition into boozy, dance-on-table evenings in tightly-packed bars in the elegant old town centre. Daytime is recovery time and our favourite spot for lazy days is Dubovica, a tiny cove of dazzling white pebbles and iridescent waters 10km east of town. It’s reached by a stony path leading down from the highway, or you can catch a taxi boat here from Hvar Town.

Cape Kamenjak

Best for nature
This wild peninsula stretches out from the southern tip of Istria, Croatia’s northernmost region. Mediterranean shrubs, fragrant herbs, fruit trees and wildflowers blanket the low hills, while all around its perimeter are rocky shelves stepping down to the water. There are few beaches per se, but part of the appeal is finding a secluded perch to call your own.

Sahara Beach

Best for naturists
Naturism has a long and venerable history in Croatia; Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson famously got their kit off on Rab Island in 1936 while Edward was still the British king. There are clothing-optional beaches all over Croatia, many on rocky headlands abutting popular beaches. Sahara Beach on Rab has the advantage of being quite lovely in its own right. This large sandy horseshoe is a half-hour hike from Lopar, giving it a degree of isolation while still being easily accessible. The major disadvantage is that the entire bay is extremely shallow; you’ll walk for what seems like an eternity to cover even your knees, let alone anything else. On the bright side, the shallow water warms up quickly and you could easily lie about in it for hours.

Punta Rata

Best for shady pines
The coastline around Brela, on the stretch of the Dalmatian mainland known as the Makarska Riviera, is comprised of a succession of pretty, pebbly beaches backed by pine forests. This 300m stretch is popular with local families, the trees providing a welcome respite from the scorching summer sun.

Lubenice

Best for seclusion and a post-swim workout
Lubenice is a stony hamlet perched 378m up a ridge in a remote section of the island of Cres. At its base is a pebbly beach, accessible by a path from the village. The 45-minute walk down to the water is a breeze and, once you get there, the often-deserted beach is a delight; the walk back to the top, rather less enjoyable.

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This article was first published August 2017 and was last updated August 2020.

Croatia’s 10 best beaches

Italy was one of the countries hit hardest by the coronavirus outbreak early on, at one point recording more fatalities than anywhere else in the world. The northern section of the country was particularly affected, but despite the dire situation in the spring, Italy flattened the curve of new cases and travel restrictions are beginning to lift. Here’s the latest.

Editor's note: This story was last updated on August 12, 2020. We will update this piece regularly to stay on top of the latest travel advice.

Travel restrictions in Italy

According to the latest guidance from the Italian government, travel for tourism purposes is currently allowed between Italy and EU member states and non-member Schengen area states, along with Andorra, Australia, Canada, Georgia, Japan, Monaco, New Zealand, Rwanda, South Korea, San Marino, Thailand, Tunisia, Uruguay, the UK, and Vatican City. This applies to citizens and foreign nationals in those locations, as well as members of their households.

Anyone who has stayed in or passed through Armenia, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Bosnia Herzegovina, Brazil, Chile, Kosovo, Kuwait, North Macedonia, Moldova, Montenegro, Oman, Panama, Peru, Dominican Republic, and Serbia during the previous 14-day period will be refused entry. (For exceptions, see points 1 and 2 here.)

Foreign nationals temporarily living in Italy are always allowed to return home. For residents of other countries who need to pass through to return home, flight transfers are allowed as long as you don’t leave the airport (for exceptions, see point 8 here); cruise passengers can return to their country of origin, and ferry passengers who disembark with a vehicle can continue on to their home country, as long as they don’t stay in Italy for more than 36 hours. (Depending on where you’ve been prior, a quarantine may be required before you’re allowed to continue on; see below for details.)

Before boarding planes or ferries, travelers must complete a self-certification form vouching that they’re just passing through. And anyone arriving from abroad should be prepared to provide a self-declaration justifying their reasons for traveling to Italy if they’re stopped for a security check by airline officials or or law enforcement.

Will I have to quarantine when I arrive in Italy?

If you’re arriving in Italy from countries other than EU and Schengen area states, the UK, Andorra, Monaco, San Marino, and Vatican City, you’re required to self-isolate for 14 days. (For exceptions, see point 4 here). Once you’ve quarantined as needed, travel between regions is allowed, but you’ll need to pre-register if you’re visiting Sardinia, Puglia, Sicily, and Calabria.

As of August 11, residents returning to Puglia from travel to Spain, Greece and Malta have to self-isolate for 14 days upon re-entry. The rule does not apply to Spanish, Greek or Maltese residents visiting Puglia. In Campania officials now require residents returning from any foreign country in August to take either a swab or a blood test and notify their local health authority. While the region of Emilia-Romagna is introducing mandatory testing for residents returning from Spain, Greece, Croatia or Malta, as of August 12. Tourists visiting the region must also be tested within 24 hours of arrival. The rules follow a recent spike in infections linked to citizens returning from holidays abroad.

Across the country, masks are required indoors, on public transit, and outdoors if a safe distance can’t be maintained – except in Lombardy, where they’re required inside and out.

Current lockdown status in Italy

Most restrictions have been lifted, but temperature-taking and hand-sanitizing may be required at restaurants, bars, beaches, pools, amusement parks, shops, museums, and hotels, and social-distancing is a must practically everywhere. For restaurants and bars, masks must be worn when you’re not seated at your table.

Hotels are technically open, but according to one report, only 40% were actually welcoming guests as of early June. Many attractions are limiting entry and requiring visitors to book in advance, so check websites before you go.

You might be wondering about...

Rome: The Vatican Museums have introduced timed entry, and advanced bookings are required. Visitors must wear masks and have their body temperatures taken upon entry, and social-distancing is mandated once inside. Similar rules are in effect for the Colosseum and its surrounding archaeological park.;

Florence: The Duomo Cathedral and its museum are providing visitors with wearable social distancing technology, and the Uffizi Gallery is limiting the number of patrons allowed, with temperatures taken at the entrance and masks mandatory once inside. The Galleria dell'Accademia and Palazzo Pitti have also reopened with restrictions in place.

Venice: Doge’s Palace is currently open from Thursday to Sunday, and ticket prices have been reduced to from €15 to €13; it will be open daily as of July 31. Restaurants like the famous Caffè Florian have reopened, and gondolas have reportedly taken to the canals once again.

Elsewhere: Visitors to the Leaning Tower of Pisa must purchase tickets in advance for timed entry, with 15 people allowed for each 15-minute increment. Designated entry is also standard at Pompeii, with 150 people allowed per 15-minute time slot, and visitors must follow one of two one-way routes around the historic site.

What they’re saying in Italy about COVID-19 and travel

Ahead of Italy’s reopening this spring, foreign minister Luigi Di Maio voiced objections to some European countries’ travel policies for the one-time virus hotspot. “If anyone thinks they can treat us like a leper colony, then they should know that we will not stand for it,” he wrote on Facebook, per a Politico translation. His indignation notwithstanding, domestic travel is down, and international visitors have been slow to return, with one report predicting an 82% drop in airport arrivals this summer and another indicating that nearly half the local population is without holiday plans this year.

But some research shows that Italians are increasingly eager for vacation, and between mad dashes for the beach and some high-profile parties and gatherings, news reports reflect an urge to be out and about after months of quarantine. Still, others describe a scene across the country that’s very different from pre-pandemic times. “Rome – usually wildly frenetic and inundated with noisy trucks, buses, bikes, motorcycles, not to mention careening taxis – is now actually calm and restful,” one American wrote in late June, noting that while Italians were out “in sizable numbers,” English-speaking tourists were nowhere to be seen. “In future, just as Venice is now considering ways of controlling the annual tides of visitors, so surely will Rome,” he wrote.

Venice’s problems with overtourism have been a topic of conversation for years, and now that there are more locals on the streets than travelers, conservation groups are working toward sustainable solutions. “We are using this time in a positive way," Melissa Conn of Save Venice told CNN. "What will follow will be slow tourism, not mass tourism anymore. We are confident that we can rebuild, reestablish and rethink Venice, concentrating on helping the city withstand the elements and tourism."

COVID-19 snapshot

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What travel looks like in Italy in 2020

Thanks to some early intervention, Greece was remarkably successful at containing the coronavirus. The country confirmed its first positive case of COVID-19 on February 6, closed schools, theaters, and gyms in early March and entered full lockdown less than two weeks later. By May, things were opening back up – tourists were welcomed back June 15 and international flights recommenced July 1. However, on August 10, Greece confirmed it was in a second wave due to recent spike in infections and introduced new restrictive measures aimed at stabilising the situation.

Editor's note: This story was last updated on August 12, 2020. We will update this piece regularly to stay on top of the latest travel advice.

Travel restrictions in Greece

Only residents of EU and Schengen member states, plus the UK, are allowed entry for non-essential purposes, though exemptions apply for travelers from Australia, Canada, Georgia, Japan, New Zealand, Rwanda, South Korea, Thailand, Tunisia, and Uruguay. Twenty-four hours prior to entry, all visitors must submit a Passenger Locator Form (PLF) detailing their contact information while in country, and on the day of their scheduled arrival, they’ll receive an email with a link to a QR code that must be presented upon screening. Anyone making multiple stops in Greece must declare and report their itinerary for the next 7 days.

As of August 17, travelers arriving from Sweden, Belgium, the Netherlands, Spain and the Czech Republic must present a negative COVID-19 test result taken within 72 hours of travel. The same requirements apply to passengers arriving from Bulgaria, Malta and Romania.

Ferry arrivals are only allowed at ports in Patras, Corfu and Igoumenitsa, and passengers must present a PLF QR code; passengers arriving via yacht have no such restrictions. By land, travelers crossing the Promachonas border with Bulgaria are required to show negative test results. Passengers in transit to a final destination will be permitted to pass through. A maximum of 750 people will be allowed to cross through the Kakavia land border with Albania as of August 16.

Will I have to quarantine when I arrive in Greece?

Any traveler who tests positive on arrival will be contacted and placed on a 14-day quarantine.

Current lockdown status in Greece

Ahead of the return of international tourism on July 1, Greece reopened restaurants, bars, and cafes, with tables spaced one meter apart for outdoor dining and 2 meters apart for indoor. Waitstaff is required to wear a mask, and customers are encouraged to do so as well.

With the recent spike in cases — which officials are blaming on overcrowding in clubs and social events despite new regulations — all bars, restaurants and food-related shops will have to close by midnight in the regions of Crete, East Macedonia, Thrace, and in some regional areas of Thessaloniki, Halkidiki, Larissa and Corfu. Similar rules apply in the municipalities of Mykonos, Paros, Santorini, Volos, Katerini, Rhodes, Antiparos, Zakynthos and Kos. The new curfew will remain in place until August 23.

Hotels and other accommodations, operating under strict health protocols, are accepting guests. Ferry service to the islands has resumed, and social distancing and masks are required in public spaces and on public transit and beaches. Beach umbrellas must be spaced four meters apart.

Many of the country’s famed archaeological sites reopened in May, and museums followed suit in June, both placing limits on the number of visitors allowed at a time.

You might be wondering about...

Athens: In late May, the Acropolis reopened, along with 200 outdoor archaeological sites across the country. The Acropolis Museum is open as well, with masks required and social-distancing expected.

Greek Islands: Greece reopened its 18 regional airports to international arrivals July 1, and travelers arriving on Rhodes, Crete, and elsewhere were welcomed with local sweets and live musical performances. Ferries are reportedly running at 60% capacity, and passengers are required to fill out a health questionnaire and have their temperature taken before boarding. Bars and restaurants on some of the most popular holiday islands are required to close at midnight.

According to USA Today, to prepare for the influx of travelers, “a safety net [has] been built for the islands – with connections to each other and to mainland hospitals for testing and health evacuations. The network of doctors and support staff will be deployed with the help of more than 100 mobile units in cars and speed boats, and backed by the coast guard, air force, and civil authorities. The health ministry will also have 11 futuristic-looking ‘transit capsules’ that can be used for patients heading to intensive care facilities.”

What they’re saying in Greece about COVID-19 and travel

When Greece announced its reopening, officials knew they were taking a chance – but when tourism is responsible for a fifth of the national economy, it seems a chance worth taking. “It’s a calculated risk,” tourism minister Harry Theocharis told Reuters in July. “We do not rush things, we take it one step at a time.”

In June, the Associated Press reported that 99% of the country’s travel revenue dropped during April lockdown, and while some locals might have enjoyed less density on previously crowded beaches and streets, many also missed the seasonal traffic they rely upon to make a living. “Nice as it is, we can't pay our bills with sand," Mykonos resident Stacey Harris-Papaioannou told the BBC.

They could be waiting awhile for that financial rebound. According to one recent study, most people trust that Greece has handled the pandemic appropriately, but only a quarter of the 3,000 people surveyed said they intended to visit before September.

Especially now that officials will be scrambling to break the chain of transmission as infection numbers swell again. Gkikas Magiorkinis, assistant professor of hygiene and epidemiology at Athens university, told the Guardian on August 10 that “Greece has formally entered a second wave of the epidemic. This is the point that we could win or lose the battle”.

COVID-19 snapshot

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