There’s luxury experiences and then there’s luxury experiences, like staying inside a hotel that has been fitted out from top to bottom with gold plating. But that’s exactly what guests at Dolce by Wyndham Hanoi Golden Lake in Vietnam can expect, as the first-of-its-kind hotel has opened its doors.

Located by Giang Vo lake in the central district of Hanoi, the hotel is well suited for exploring many of the treasured sites in the city, including Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the Temple of Literature, the vibrant Old Quarter and the legendary Hoan Kiem Lake. According to the company, the hotel is the first of its kind in the world, given the fact that the building’s exterior is fully plated with 24-carat gold, while interior spaces are also finished with the precious metal.

With a fully-equipped fitness center with professional trainers that is complimentary for all guests, the hotel aims to provide a luxury experience to travelers. There’s even a rooftop infinity pool finished in, yep, you guessed it, 24-carat gold plating.

“Perhaps you may wonder why gold? it is not only about creating aesthetically phenomenal architecture; it is also about offering the most luxurious guest-oriented service and amenities to enhance their general health and well-being,” the hotel said on its Facebook page, while pointing to the fact that there is some evidence that gold may have some health benefits such as reducing inflammation.

Guests can see the decadent accents in the elevators in the lobby, while the rooftop pool has a shower decked out in gold also. The hotel has 342 guest rooms, ten duplex suites and one presidential duplex suite. Bathrooms have deep-soak golden bath-tubs, walk-in rain showers,

The hotel also includes an executive lounge on the 12 th floor, special business facilities for meetings and conferences, as well as a spa, a fine dining restaurant, sushi bar and a lobby bar. “At Dolce by Wyndham Hanoi Golden Lake, we aim to transform every moment into an extraordinary opportunity to inspire,” the hotel said. More information on Wyndham Hanoi Golden Lake is available at the official website.

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A look inside the world’s first gold-plated hotel in Vietnam 

Fabienne Fong Yan worked in the first coffee shop to ever open on Hanoi Train Street, and saw what life was like along the tracks before Instagram changed everything.

It was just a narrow street with one oddity: train tracks running through the middle. Neglected for decades, it was suddenly brought into light by one café who tempted travelers to the spot. Two years later, it was one of the most famous places in Vietnam. But by October 2019, the touristic hype was all over, as local authorities shut down the street.

Before the hype: a neglected hidden gem

Like most people in 2017, I first discovered the train street by accident. There was no café or plastic stools along the railway back then, only a very quiet atmosphere and some elders chit-chatting on their doorstep on the train tracks. There used to be a quaint quietness on that street, although it was directly crossing two big avenues - Dien Bien Phu and Tran Phu streets, only minutes from the bustling Old Quarter.

Nobody in Hanoi really paid attention to the train street and it saw only a few lost travelers. The families there were rather poor and neglected. Who would want to live in a house with a train literally passing on your threshold several times a day? It was loud, inconvenient, dangerous. Definitely undesirable. It used to be one of the most ill-frequented areas in the city center: dark, dirty, miserable. It had none of that glamour shown on Instagram later on.

Yet, at the end of 2017, one young Vietnamese woman got the idea - rather odd at the time, to say the least - to open a coffee shop along the tracks. She hadn’t grown up on the Train Street. Maybe that’s why she saw potential where locals only saw the ordinary.

How do you live with a train on your doorstep?

When I first met Thao Quach, the train street was not well known. Nevertheless, she opened The Railway Hanoi, the first coffee shop along the tracks. Thao and I became friends as soon as we met. I started by giving a hand for service, and soon our friendship hatched a partnership. That’s how for nearly 2 years, the Train Street became my adoptive home.

I was there almost every day, serving drinks to the occasional customer or taking curious travelers on street food tours. But at the beginning, locals looked at me very suspiciously. Not only because I was a foreigner, but also because I was taking part in a project not everyone approved of. For over a century since the tracks had been built by the French and the houses filled by railway workers’ families, the street has been left alone. Most houses were tiny - including ours - sheltering two or three generations in a room at the same time.

Conditions were far from easy. For a long first year, we didn’t even have water from 9am to 4pm. But life was always fascinating on the train street: watching elders having their tra da (green tea) on the tracks, mothers bathing their kids, men playing chess, grandmas putting the common stove in the middle of the railway to be shared before dinner… the track was our courtyard.

A lesson of persistence and community love

For the first months, Thao fought every day to convince the neighbours that change might be disruptive but not necessarily a bad thing. She created The Railway Hanoi project, aiming to connect foreign volunteer teachers with local kids who needed to learn English. “I want to bridge the gap between the inhabitants of the Train Street and the travelers,” she said.

“I want travelers to understand the soul of Hanoi Train Street: when people come to see us, they don’t know our neighbours. They don’t know one of the ladies’ family has lived here for three generations and both her children work for the railway department. Travelers take pictures of An - our baby neighbour - without even knowing that she’s a girl!”

The children of the Train Street were the first seduced by our café: they embraced newness, but also new faces, stories and friendships. Our favourite gypsy jazz playlist resonated on the street at the end of the afternoon while we waited for the train with our guests. We were as excited as they could be, even after seeing our 100th train. “Train’s coming!” 7-year old Ngoan would shout.

The young sisters Ngoan and An soon became our favourite little neighbours. They slowly got acquainted with us, timidly peering inside the café at the beginning, then demanding to come inside and draw on walls - Thao had given them coloured chalks to doodle around. They brought joy, they brought life. And one evening, their grandma invited us both for dinner. In Vietnamese culture, that is a very strong sign of acceptance into the community. Better, into the family.

The rise and fall of Hanoi Train Street

There is a Golden Age to everything. Hanoi Train Street is a perfect example of what mass tourism in the age of social media can do to a local community. At the beginning of 2019, travelers from all over the world were coming to see the train go through its exceedingly narrow street. As the distant “Choo Choooo” filled the air, everybody would get ready to take the best selfie of their lives.

From hidden gem to Instagram sensation, Hanoi Train Street made it to the top 10 must-see in Hanoi in less than 8 months. Over the course of 2019, over 20,000 images had been hashtagged #hanoitrainstreet or #trainstreethanoi on Instagram. The consequence? A skyrocketing value of the street and hyper-development of businesses, as is commonly seen in Vietnam.

In May 2019, I left for a 3-week holiday. When I came back, 5 new cafés were opened on our section and An and Ngoan had moved houses with their grandma; their landlord wanted to destroy their house and make a new coffee shop, right next to us. The family in the house across our tiny café had already left. Bye bye, railway kids. The cards were reshuffled: the Train Street belonged to business owners and tourists from then on.

In October 2019 however, local authorities suddenly ordered it to be shut down: a few trains had to be rerouted because too many tourists were standing on the tracks. The narrow street had reached its maximum capacity. It is true it had gotten out of control, nobody was listening to safety rules anymore and we were not equipped to manage the massive influx of tourists. So it was meant to happen. Curtain.

What's the future for Hanoi Train Street?

Hanoi Train Street used to be something very different and it’s irreplaceable, not only for travellers but my own life as well. Is the community going to be forgotten again? For weeks, policemen and barriers have blocked the access to the street: “We feel like caged birds,” one lady confided, “The train still comes but everything has changed-”

“CHOO CHOO!!”

There comes our train, drowning out her voice. We watch it brush the walls in a loud clanking and cranking, and somebody whispers its name: “Doi Moi”. Its meaning? “Changing Times”.

As of early 2020, no-one can tell what the future of the street may hold: amidst uneven negotiations, Hanoi Train street could remain shut, with businesses having to lay low for an undetermined time. It could even be destroyed, as per the original government plan, if not a touristic asset anymore. But Vietnam is the home of unexpected destinies. For now, nothing seems more important than listening to what local families want. They are the soul of the street and deserve to be heard. Can a responsible way to manage Hanoi Train Street be worked out? Only changing times will tell.

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Most visitors to Hanoi will sample the city’s most famous dishes: pho bo (traditional Vietnamese noodle soup with beef), bun cha (barbecued pork with rice vermicelli) and banh mi (baguette). But beyond the three Bs, the capital’s food scene is as diverse as it is adventurous. Here are Hanoi’s best street eats, for both the brave and faint of stomach.

Banh cuon: steamed rice paper rolls

Perhaps the most popular dishes to have for breakfast when you’re in Northern Vietnam. These Vietnamese paper rolls are usually stuffed with minced pork and mushrooms but can also be filled with egg! It is intended for dipping in nuoc mam (fish sauce) along with fresh aromatic herbs - a staple ingredient in Vietnamese food. Enjoy at Banh Cuon Ba Xuan in Hoan Kiem, while watching the owner attending to her huge steamer and produce the finest rolls.

Bun oc: snail noodle soup

Forget chicken and beef – sea snail noodle soup is Hanoi’s classic comfort food. A standard bowl comes with rice vermicelli ( bun), tofu, sometimes beef and crab meat, and a heaping plate of the greens that accompany most Vietnamese dishes. Key ingredients in the broth are tomatoes, wine vinegar, and pepper, giving it a nice kick. It can be found all over Hanoi, but locals will recommend a bowl on Ngo Sy Lien alley, in a shop tucked behind the market of the same name in Ba Dinh district. Good bun oc shops are exclusively open at night as this dish is traditionally served on evenings.

Read more: A guide to Vietnamese coffee

Lau : Vietnamese hot-pot

You can't travel in a group and miss out on hot-pot! Although it might seem intimidating at first, it is may be the truest way to experience street food life in Hanoi. Gather around the central pot of bubbling broth (often already prepared with tasty spices) and drop in a huge amount of whatever fresh vegetables, meat and seafood are to your liking. Cheer with traditional rice wine until it's cooked. Choose Lau Hang Beo on Tran Phu street (Ba Dinh district) to experience the real deal. For the most daring, some restaurants near the West Lake specialise in frog hot-pot.

Hanoi-style barbecue

Grab a plastic basket and some tongs; a Hanoi barbecue street food stall is a little like a farmers market, but with more squid and cow udders. A popular barbecue in the Old Quarter at 66 P Hang Bong has a good selection of veggies, meat kebabs, and seafood skewers. After choosing from the mystery meats (nothing is labelled), pull up a stool and get grilling on one of the mini burners that are placed at each table. Another barbecue at 61 P Quan Su offers tasty ribs, glazed okra, and funky-looking enoki mushrooms.

Bun ca: noodle soup with fish

Just one of the soups in the ' bun ' family (with rice vermicelli noodles) with fried fish pieces. Commonly enjoyed at lunch, here the broth is prepared with green vegetables often including a variant of 'morning glory' - a popular leaf commonly stir-fried or boiled. A combination of aromatic herbs, including cilantro and dill, make the taste unique. To try one of the most fragrant bun ca head to Bun Ca Van on Quan Thanh, in Ba Dinh district. Ask for a ' thap cam ' (mixed toppings).

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Banh xeo and nem lui: crispy pancakes and lemongrass pork skewers

Banh xeo is part crepe, part pancake and 100% delicious. The Hanoian version of the savoury rice-flour cake is filled with prawns and bean sprouts, served with assorted greens, cucumber, and sour mango or papaya. Scissors are often supplied to help diners cut up the crispy banh xeo, which can be rolled in rice paper along with other toppings. Most banh xeo places also serve nem lui, grilled pork sausages sometimes presented on a lemongrass skewer. P Doi Can, Ba Dinh District, has many street vendors that sell this popular dish, which is meant to be enjoyed in the evenings.

Mien xao luon: glass noodles with eel

Like sliced pig-ear meat, eel is not an uncommon ingredient in Vietnamese salads. And no one serves it quite like Dong Thinh at 87 P Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem District. For mien xao luon, crispy eel is mixed with stir-fried glass noodles, egg, and bean sprouts. Other options include mien tron (noodles tossed with eel, cucumber, and herbs) and chao luon (eel porridge). A display case out front is kept filled to the brim with dried eel, and with the constant foot traffic it’s easy to see why.

Banh da tron: mixed flat rice noodles

For a unique local food experience, head to 42C P Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem District. You’ll see a woman on the side of the street with a carrying pole and two baskets: one holds a steaming pot and the other is filled with raw ingredients. She carries this every day, and mostly feeds hungry office workers during their lunch breaks. Her speciality is banh da tron : thick, flat noodles topped with sausage, fried fish cakes, tofu, peanuts and leafy vegetables. Thin glass noodles called mien are another option.

Banh tom: Hanoi shrimp cakes

Banh tom is made from battered sweet potato and prawns, served with a side of fish sauce and papaya that is sweet and slightly spicy. These golden snacks are originally from Ho Tay, the West Lake area from shrimps caught locally. Today however, they are served in many markets in Hanoi. Some of the most recommended ones are sold at the beginning of a narrow street food alley in Dong Xuan market, the biggest market in Old Quarter. Make sure you arrive there early enough (before 11:30am) as stall tends to run out pretty fast! Wash the crispy cakes down with a glass of iced soy milk.

Read more: A tour of Vietnam's best regional dishes

Banh goi: Vietnamese crispy 'empanadas'

For more fried goodies, head to a slightly off-the-beaten track spot, near the famous Hanoi Train Street. Around 10 Ton That Thiep street (the numbers of houses can be approximate in the area) in Ba Dinh District, a street food shop serves banh goi - a pillow-shaped pastry holding minced pork, wood ear mushrooms, vermicelli noodles and a quail egg - but also ha cao (fried dumpling), banh pho mai (fried cheese stick) and nem chua ran (fried fermented sausage). The shop welcomes customers only from 3 to 7pm.

My ga tan: chicken noodles in herbal broth

My ga tan is one of Hanoi’s most intimidating dishes. But after getting past the shock of realising there’s a chicken head peering back at you from your soup, you’ll find the dish is hearty and fulfilling. Diners have two options: the 'regular' chicken, or a miniature (and slightly more expensive) chicken called a black-bone silky, named for its black skin. The chickens are stuffed into empty soda and beer cans with aromatic Chinese herbs. Next, the cans are placed over heat, allowing the meat to soak up the flavours while it simmers. Egg noodles ( my) are added to the stew, and Vietnamese swear by the soup’s healing properties. Quan Cay Si restaurant at 29 Tong Duy Tan in Hoan Kiem District serves up the best in town.

Che: a colourful sweet soup for dessert

To finish off with something sweet, try che, a 'sweet soup' made of layers including red bean and mungo bean pastes, glutinous rice balls in starch and herbal jelly cubes, topped with syrup and coconut shreds. This is the Hanoian version but you will find che across the country in many variations. On evenings and weekends, the Old Quarter buzzes with young people sipping lemon tea and spitting sunflower seeds, gathering at che places. A recommended address is Xoi Che Ba Thin at 1 Bat Dan in Hoan Kiem District. Order the mixed che thap cam and make sure they serve you with their town-famous jasmine syrup.

This article was originally published in June 2016 and was updated in January 2020 by Fabienne Fong Yan

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Hanoi's most essential street food

If you’ve always dreamed of going on a backpacking adventure in Asia and have decided that 2020 is finally the year to do it, you’ll definitely have some planning to do ahead of you. Good thing there are tools to help you.

The UK -based insurance group Alpha Travel has pulled together data from various cities around Asia to help you figure out which ones are the cheapest, and the ranking takes into consideration the average cost of a night in a hostel, two journeys on public transportation, three budget meals, one cultural attraction and three local beers.

Leading the list as the cheapest city in the continent is Hanoi, where you’ll spend as little as around US$18 a day. Another Vietnamese city, Ho Chi Minh City, comes in third place with an average daily expense of $19. Nearby Laos and Myanmar are also part of the top five - living in Vientiane for a day will cost you a little more than $18, while a day in Yangon is around $20. The same price of daily travel life in Nepal ’s Pokhara, which closes off the top five.

At the other end of the spectrum, Tokyo leads the way as the most expensive city in Asia for backpackers, with daily expenses averaging out at around $75. Macau and Hong Kong will set you back of $67 and $62 respectively. The final two cities in the top five are Singapore and Seoul, where a day of travel expenses will cost you $56 for the former and $49 for the latter.

Read more: These are the best countries for adventure backpacking in the 2020s

Navigating the tool is also useful in case you don’t mind paying a little for, say, transport but are for example interested in getting the cheapest possible accommodation – in which case you should head off to Siem Reap in Cambodia, where it averages at $1.50.

If you’d like to know more about the map tool and the data behind it, you can check it out at the official website here.

Can you guess the cheapest destinations in Asia for backpackers?

Selfie-loving travellers in Hanoi have found a new railway-related hotspot following the recent closure of illegal cafés on Train Street, a popular photography destination in the Old City that was posing safety issues for the city.

According to VN Express, visitors are choosing to take selfies at Long Bien Bridge, a bridge that was built between 1899 and 1902 and is a symbol of the tenacity and resilience of the Hanoian people. Designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame, it was bombed on several occasions during the Vietnam War, which is known in Vietnam as the American War.

Used by trains, mopeds and pedestrians, there are barriers along the sides intended to deter climbers, but some travellers are climbing over them and onto the train tracks in pursuit of the perfect shot. This is dangerous and raises concerns for safety, and there are fears that it will echo the situation on Train Street, where trains pass through just inches away from buildings and people's homes.

The highly Instagrammable street became such a draw for selfie-taking visitors that a train was obliged to re-route because there were too many people on the track. Having grown concerned about safety and the risk to human life, officials ordered the closure of the illegal cafés that line the street. Whether they are forced to implement new measures around Long Bien Bridge remains to be seen.

This is Vietnam’s latest dangerous train-selfie spot

Many visitors to Hanoi enjoy visiting the street known as "Train Street," but a new clampdown means that they may not be able to dine at the cafés that line the narrow street in future.

Vietnamese authorities have become concerned about the street in Hanoi’s Old Quarter where trains pass through just inches away from buildings and people's homes. Built in 1902 during French colonial rule, the highly Instagrammable street has become such a draw for selfie-taking visitors that a train was recently obliged to re-route because there were too many people on the track.

Train driver Nguyen Huu Nam told the VN Express newspaper that he has had to make an emergency stop at this section of the railway on three occasions when people failed to move as he approached. Having grown concerned about safety and the risk to human life, officials have now ordered the closure of the illegal cafés that line the street by 12 October.

With outdoor seating placed dangerously close to the tracks, the cafés are attracting visitors who want to get great photos of the train. As 15.5m people visited Vietnam in 2018, authorities have had to act to ensure that the street is safe to visit. "Though the railway cafés attract tourists, they are, in fact, violating some regulations," said Ha Van Sieu, vice chairman of the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism.

Hanoi's Instagram-famous Train Street is set for a revamp

There's a lot to love about travelling in Vietnam, which stretches from the soaring mountains and fascinating ethnic groups of the north to the endless rice paddies and vibrant waterways of the Mekong Delta in the south, with more than 3000km of glorious coastline in between.

Throw in a good transport infrastructure of buses, trains and flights and an abundance of cheap but excellent street food and it's no surprise Vietnam graces countless bucket lists. But, like any country, it has its challenges, and some visitors come home with tales of scams, hectic roads and pushy vendors. Following these top tips will help you avoid the major pitfalls, and ensure you come away from your first visit to Vietnam with happy memories, as well as your souvenir conical hat.

Be open
Vietnam 's long exposure to foreigners means that many local residents aren’t as overtly curious about visitors as some of their counterparts in Cambodia, Myanmar and Laos. Also, because most Vietnamese are not confident with spoken English despite learning it in school, people tend to ignore lost-looking foreigners unless you actually ask for help. But be assured that the Vietnamese really are friendly people. If you ask someone a question with a smile and in slow, clear English, you’ll almost certainly have it answered and the smile returned. Simple phrases such as xin chào ('hello', pronounced 'seen chow') and cám ơn ('thank you', pronounced 'kaam uhn') go a long way.
Get connected
While most hotels, cafes and restaurants have wi-fi, you can easily buy a SIM card and get connected to the internet for as little as US$3. Vietnamese street names are notoriously long (most are named after people), so digital maps trump paper ones for many travellers. You’ll also find having a local phone number handy for meeting up with tour guides and making last-minute bookings on the road. SIM cards are widely sold in corner shops and are easy to top up. Once you have a card, the process to register for internet can be tricky, so ask the shopkeeper or your hotel to do it for you. Lonely Planet's Guides app covers Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Know your dong from your dollar
The Vietnamese dong is the currency of Vietnam and comes in denominations ranging from 200 to 500,000 (about US$22 at the time of writing). While it’s thrilling to become a Vietnamese millionaire, dealing with that many zeros can become frustrating, especially since some of the currency is very similar in colour. For example, the 10,000d note and the 200,000d note are both tan while the 20,000d and 500,000d notes are both blue. It’s very easy to hand over the wrong bill to a taxi driver while in a rush. Spend a minute in your room before going out to sort your bills to avoid overpaying. Even if you do end up overpaying a small amount for certain things, take it in stride. In the grand scheme of things, it’ll likely not be worth the aggravation.

While international credit and debit cards are accepted at most larger hotels, restaurants and travel agencies (sometimes with an added fee), cash is still king in Vietnam for day-to-day transactions. ATMs are widely available, and currency can be exchanged at banks (and some gold shops, although this practice is frowned upon by the government).
Note that the official system of separate prices for Vietnamese and foreigners – which applied to everything from train tickets to entrance fees – is a thing of the past.
Be wary of taxi scams
For many, motorcycle taxis are the best way see the thronging streets of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. However, scams can happen, and your best protection is a decent knowledge of where you are going and points along the way. Always agree on a price beforehand and be prepared to be quoted a higher price than the locals. For regular taxis, stick to the two major companies of Mai Linh and Vinasun (both have apps). Smaller, independent taxis are known for fast meters and aggressive drivers. If you’re in one of the larger cities, ride-sharing apps like Uber and Grab are good, offering both car and motorcycle taxis. Sometimes the driver will call to confirm, so having a Vietnamese-speaking friend nearby will come in handy.

Know your transport options
Overnight buses are a good way to cover long distances and save on accommodation costs. However, the layback seats don’t offer much legroom, so tallish passengers (anyone over 1.6m) will find it impossible to stretch out fully. While the top bunk offers slightly more privacy, they can be right at the height of street lights. Sleep masks, ear plugs and noise-cancelling headphones (especially if the bus is playing music or movies) are recommended.
That said, sometimes you can pay a few more dollars and fly – the more convenient but less sustainable option. Vietnam has several budget airlines, which offer cheap fares but are notorious for being late and strictly enforcing carry-on limits. The national carrier, Vietnam Airlines, has better service and comparable pricing if booked in advance.
More comfortable than buses and cheaper than flights, train travel is another option for getting around Vietnam. A railway line spans the length of the country, following the coastline from HCMC all the way to Hanoi and beyond. It's a must for rail enthusiasts, with the ride considered amongst the most amazing train journeys in the world.
Be aware of your surroundings
Violent crime is extremely rare in Vietnam, and firearms are heavily regulated. But snatch-and-grabs and, to a lesser extent, pickpocketing, do happen. It pays to be vigilant. Use your phone and other electronics sparingly when outside (even while sitting at a sidewalk cafe or on the back of a motorbike). Leave your passport at the hotel; there’s rarely a reason to have the original on you.
Also, while Vietnam has some of the cheapest beer in the world, be careful about overdoing it. Inebriated tourists wandering back to their hotel in the morning hours when there is little traffic around can be seen as easy targets. If you come home late at night, go with a friend and splurge the extra dollar or two on an automobile taxi instead of a motorcycle taxi.

Be safe on the roads
Traffic in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City can seem terrifying at first glance. Just walking across the street during rush hour can feel like an impossible task! But there is method to the madness and, like a school of fish, the traffic will inevitably glide around you as long as you keep moving at a slow and steady pace. If unsure, do as the locals do and raise one hand high to be seen above the sea of helmets.
If you’re looking to drive a motorbike yourself, it’s best to save it for one of the quieter destinations like Hoi An, Dalat or Phu Quoc. Always wear a helmet, and be aware of the exhaust pipe, which has caused many a leg burn. As motorbikes tend to drive closely to each other, keep your feet pointed inwards and think of wearing closed shoes which offer extra protection for your feet.
For more tips on planning a trip to Vietnam, including what to wear and what to book in advance, see our planning tips.
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This article was originally published in July 2012 and most recently updated in August 2019.
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Vietnam tips: a first-timer's guide

Dotted with jagged limestone pinnacles, Halong Bay is one of Vietnam’s biggest attractions. The vast majority of its 10 million visitors a year arrive aboard day and overnight cruises.
The multitude of trips on offer can be overwhelming: here’s the skinny on Halong Bay to get you started.

Make the most of your visit
Halong Bay retains much of the otherworldly magic conjured up by 1969 jungle-clad islands and islets rising from deep emerald waters. Getting there is increasingly straightforward, thanks to the 2018 building of an expressway connecting Halong City and Hanoi, and the opening of Van Don International Airport (with flights to Ho Chi Minh City, and international flights coming soon) a mere 50km from Halong Bay.
But the bay's popularity has taken its toll. Concerned about overcrowding, water pollution and litter, the Vietnamese government has imposed strict regulations.
Today, boats must follow one of five prescribed routes through the bay, meaning overnight cruises leaving roughly from the same place at the same time play follow-the-leader as they hit the major highlights of the bay almost in frustrating concert. In addition, swimming is only allowed at a few designated beaches, with drones surveilling the skies to make sure boat captains comply.
Especially with these rules in place, your choice of cruise can make or break your Halong Bay experience.
Luxury cruises
Want to spoil yourself? Halong Bay has some sumptuous cruise options that are basically luxury hotels on water. You’re paying for the experience of five-star amenities here – not for any particular divergence from the typical cruise itinerary – but if you want to live it up from a swanky sun-lounger while watching the sun set over a vista of craggy jungle-topped islands, you can’t really go wrong.
For a luxury cruise, bank on spending around US$300–350 for a cabin.
Pros: It’s a serious treat. While the cost may seem high, it typically includes higher quality meals and amenities on board, such as a spa or gym, as well as entry to Halong Bay.
Cons: Those who are after good value should probably look at midrange options. Overnight trips (marketed as two-day/one-night trips) usually involve 24 hours or less on the actual boat, which can rankle given what you pay for the experience.

Budget and midrange cruises
Most Halong Bay visitors go for midrange or budget cruises, but there is a huge range when it comes to price and value for money. At one end of the scale are some ultra-budget boats where conditions are rustic at best; at the other are some excellent midrange options offering cosy hotel-style cabins, knowledgeable on-board tour guides and kayaking stops. If purse strings are tight, for facilities, comfort and safety considerations, it’s sometimes better to choose a day cruise with a midrange operator rather than a bargain-basement overnight trip.
Budget cruise prices start from US$60 per person for a day trip. Paying between US$110 and US$130 should get you a worthwhile overnight midrange cruise.
Pros: Competition is fierce, which means plenty of operators add freebies into the itinerary, such as kayaking and private minibus transfers from Hanoi.
Cons: You have to wade through a lot of options, which can be confusing. It’s worth doing your pre-trip research.
Day cruises
If you’re pressed for time, do as many locals do and see Halong Bay on a day cruise from Tuan Chau Marina in Halong City. Cruise boats can be rented by the hour (around US$30 per hour for a boat that accommodates up to 20 passengers) or you can join other passengers aboard a four- to six-hour cruise for about US$50 per person. Options vary greatly, so check whether the price includes lunch.
Pros: Day cruises are cheap and easily organised tours right on the spot in Halong City, plus there’s free entertainment on board provided by karaoke.
Cons: Can be crowded and noisy, with only time enough for a few stops. Did we mention the karaoke?

Kayaking
Most decent midrange Halong Bay cruises will offer an hour or so of kayaking (some charging an extra fee). Paddling around the karsts allows you to experience the limestone towers from a completely different angle: up close and without the constant thrum of an engine in the background.
For more experienced kayakers, there are also kayak-only trips. These trips are run by a handful of operators based in nearby Lan Ha Bay (off Cat Ba Island) rather than Halong Bay itself, though Lan Ha’s islet-scattered sea has as much wow factor as Halong Bay and is much less visited.
Full-day kayaking trips from Cat Ba Island cost between US$25 and US$30 per person.
Pros: In one of Southeast Asia’s most popular tourist destinations, a kayak trip is a way of escaping the crowds.
Cons: On a full kayaking tour, you’re only going to see a sliver of the area. To see more, it’s a better idea to take a cruise that includes a kayaking stop.
Safety
One of the most important reasons to steer away from the ultra-budget cruises is safety. After a boat sinking (and the loss of 12 lives) in 2011, new safety regulations were brought in for Halong Bay cruise boats, but scrimping on safety does still go on with some fly-by-night operators.
In particular, check that any kayaking stops are accompanied by a guide. Because of the variable and surprisingly strong currents close to the karst islands, a safety-conscious operator won’t allow kayakers to paddle off from the boat by themselves.

Booking tips
Most trips leave from Hanoi, but you can also base yourself in Halong City. When you're booking, bear these tips in mind:

The Halong Bay entry fee is US$13 per person for a day cruise and US$25 for an overnight cruise. This is generally included in your ticket, though it's worth double-checking for the cheapest cruises. Activities like kayaking and island bike rides may cost extra.
When comparing prices, check whether a transfers between Hanoi and Halong Bay are included, and if so, whether it’s one-way or round-trip, and if it uses the new expressway or not.
While the Ha Long–Hai Phong Expressway has cut travel time between Hanoi and Halong Bay to 2½ hours, that really only applies to private vehicles which don’t stop to pick up any other passengers and which don’t make the usual 30-minute comfort stop halfway through the journey. Aboard a shuttle bus, plan for a three to 3½-hour ride.
Check closely to see whether overnight cruise rates are priced by cabin or by person. Single travellers should expect to pay 70-80% of the full cabin price.
The itinerary on a one-night cruise can be very packed, with shore excursions, kayaking, swimming and hiking all included, leaving little time to actually just sit and watch the amazing scenery during daylight hours. If you have the time, a two-night itinerary is much more leisurely, with the bonus of visiting sights with fewer people around.

Arranging a tour
Some recommended operators:

Vega Travel offers good-value overnight and two-night tours with comfortable cabins, and kayaking included. Highly recommended by travellers.
Cat Ba Ventures runs tours out of Cat Ba Island, taking in both Halong Bay and Lan Ha Bay.
Indochina Sails has a traditional Chinese junk that’s been fully fitted out with all mod cons.
Handspan Adventure Travel has a proper sailing ship, so you don’t have to put up with that pesky engine hum. Handspan also runs full kayaking tours in nearby Lan Ha Bay.
Hai Au Aviation offers Vietnam’s only seaplane flights, including a 25-minute scenic flight over Halong Bay which presents a completely different perspective. From the air, the islands truly do resemble the undulating body of a dragon, the meaning of 'Halong'.
L’Azalée Private Premium Cruise has the bay’s only single-cabin cruiser for an ultra-luxe experience, but expect to pay dearly for the privilege.

When to go
One of the best times to visit Halong Bay is November – there are blue skies aplenty, temperatures are moderate and there’s a good chance of calm seas. From May to September, tropical storms can whip up without much warning. This is also high season in Halong, particularly from June to mid-August when domestic tourism peaks.
February to April is often cool and drizzly, and the fog can make visibility low, though also adds an ethereal atmosphere. Year-round, cruises and tourist boats sometimes need to alter their itineraries, or trips can be cancelled with little warning depending on the weather and sea conditions. If you’re booking a cruise, check the fine print for the refund procedures.
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Visiting Halong Bay: tips to plan your cruise

The Vietnamese city of Hanoi has announced it will soon end the sale of dog meat.

The city’s Department of Health made the announcement recently, saying that the slaughtering and trade of dogs in the city would be gradually phased out and by 2021 there would be no more dog meat restaurants in the city.
It follows a statement from the Hanoi People’s Committee which urged residents to reconsider the practice. “Slaughtering and using dog and cat meat has created objections among tourists and international visitors living in Hanoi”, they said, “affecting the image of a civilised capital.”

It’s not just public opinion that is influencing the decision. The mass transportation of dogs to Hanoi can encourage the spread of rabies, which the national government wants to eradicate by 2021. Five people in the city have caught the disease so far this year, with three cases proving fatal.
Popularity of dog and cat meat is declining among the younger generations but there are still hundreds of traders in the country whose livelihoods depend on the meat. It’s estimated there are more than a thousand shops in the city still selling dog and cat meat while approximately 15% of dogs in Hanoi are being bred specifically to consume.
While the practice may seem distasteful to Western visitors, dog meat has long been a delicacy in the country and traditionally was eaten as good luck.

The Vietnamese dog trade is especially controversial as animal welfare organisations regularly state that dogs are often stolen from their owners or from the streets to keep up with demand. The methods in which the dogs are killed have also been condemned for often being cruel. Eating dog meat remains relatively common in Vietnam, China, South Korea and Nigeria although is on the decline in all these regions.

All stories in Hanoi