When European city-hopping is mentioned, most travellers imagine the alluring charms of Paris, Rome or London. But go off the beaten track and explore Bulgaria ’s vibrant and youthful capital Sofia, and you’ll be surprised by its rocking cultural scene, heartwarming food and chilled-out vibe. Whether you want to marvel at historic sights, trek on mountain slopes or enjoy a glass of world-class wine, Sofia offers experiences that are both authentic and affordable. Here are the best things to do in Sofia.

Explore historic treasures

Every history buff will be happy to land in Sofia. A leisurely stroll around the city centre lets the visitor uncover Bulgaria’s diverse layers of history, mixing up Roman ruins and Soviet architecture, as well as Ottoman and Byzantine religious and cultural influences.

Start by visiting one of the world’s biggest Orthodox churches and a major Bulgarian symbol – the stunning neo-Byzantine Aleksander Nevski Cathedral. Famous for its gold-laden domes, the church commemorates the 200,000 Russian soldiers who died for Bulgaria’s independence during the Russo-Turkish War (1877–78).

If you prefer searching for Thracian gold and Roman artefacts, definitely spend a day at the National Museum of History. Relax in its spacious gardens, while taking a photo with the Russian MiG fighters’ statues that are erected there. For an insight into Bulgaria’s decades behind the Iron Curtain, visit the Museum of Socialist Art to check out its quirky collection of statues, paintings and propaganda movies.

Admire the vibrant arts scene

Get to the heart of Bulgarian art by browsing the National Gallery Quadrat 500. This is where you can admire the country’s largest collection of medieval paintings as well as impressive examples of contemporary art. Another art venue worth popping into is the Sofia City Art Gallery, which hosts rotating exhibitions of Bulgarian paintings and sculpture.

Lovers of opera and ballet can indulge in beloved classics at the Sofia Opera and Ballet. You can’t go wrong with its range of deeply moving, world-class performances (with ticket prices starting from only 10 euros). Fans of classical music can also opt for a night out at the excellent Sofia Philharmonic Orchestra. Head to Ivan Vazov National Theatre for Bulgarian drama.

Taste the Balkan cuisine

Food is deeply ingrained in Bulgarian culture – it’s a way to enjoy life and connect with others. To start the day like a local, have a bite of a freshly baked banitsa. It’s hard to find a more traditional breakfast than this warm and buttery pastry made of special dough sheets with fillings like white cheese (the absolute classic), spinach and cheese, cinnamon-sprinkled apples and sugary pumpkin. Banitsa can be found pretty much everywhere, but some of the trendiest local bakeries include Hlebar, Furna and Cafe Ma Baker.

Sampling Sofia: best new food and drink spots

At lunchtime, get cozy at one of the restaurants offering local specialities: grilled meat, shopska salad (a fresh mix of tomatoes, cucumbers and white cheese) and rakia (Bulgaria’s national spirit – beware, it’s strong!).  Save the evening for a glass of locally produced wine (the red variety mavrud, in particular, is excellent), juicy steaks and a heavenly Turkish-influenced dessert. Vegans and vegetarians won’t be disappointed either – a range of vegan places have shaped the local taste in recent years.

Shtastliveca is ideal for an affordable traditional dinner with a modern twist (vegetarian and vegan options included), Fabrika Daga is famous for its excellent brunches, while Soul Kitchen offers mainly vegan and raw food options. For top-quality wine and cocktails, visit One More Bar.

Go shopping for authentic Bulgarian goods

Thinking of your next shopping trip, you’re more likely to plan a weekend in Italy than in Bulgaria. While it’s true that Sofia is no big fashion capital, it has its fair share of small boutiques and designer clothing that come at more affordable prices than in western Europe. But it’s safe to say that shopping in Sofia stretches far beyond the famous brands.

Visitors can take home authentic pieces of the country’s spirit – everything from organic rose-oil cosmetics (Bulgaria is the world’s leading producer of rose oil) and Bulgarian raspberry wines to white cheese and spices. You’ll find a good selection of products at Rose of Bulgaria and Vino Orenda stores. The best place to stock up on fresh and cheap local foods is the Ladies’ Market (beware of pickpockets).

Escape to nature in nearby forests and mountains

Nestled in the foothills of the sprawling Vitosha Nature Park, Sofia is just a 10km drive from the pleasant shades of its pine and oak forests. In spring and summer, the mountain is popular for its trekking routes leading to the nearby villages, as well as the soul-stirring peak Cherni Vrâh (literally "Black Peak").

One of the spots to begin your hike is Zlatnite Mostove (meaning "Golden Bridges"). It’s an extraordinary geological phenomenon that looks like a stone river running down a slope from around 1700m to 1350m. Nature lovers may also enjoy trekking to the 25m-high Boyana waterfall that lures with its crystal-clear waters.

When winters are snowy, Mt Vitosha offers accessible and cheap ski rides, but bear in mind that the facilities here are basic in comparison to big Bulgarian resorts like Bansko. Non-skiers can catch the Simeonovo gondola (accessible via bus lines 111, 122 and 123) and enjoy a refreshing walk in the woods.

Article first published February 2018, and last updated October 2019

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The best things to do in Sofia

Bulgaria’s capital usually brings to mind associations with hearty Balkan cuisine that is best washed down with an invigorating glass of rakia (local fruit brandy). But Sofia’s food scene has undergone bold transformations in recent years. Blending imagination, tradition and laid-back spirit, the taste of Sofia is ever-evolving and waiting to be rediscovered.

Evolving coffee culture
When you think of speciality coffee, Bulgaria rarely comes to mind. But local tastes are changing: a number of hip coffee shops have sprung up to redefine local coffee culture. The daily cup of joe is no longer a mundane and bland-tasting necessity, it’s an experience – a passion for the perfect brew, sipped slowly to satisfy the senses and add to a relaxed conversation with a friend.
For a next-gen coffee paired with reimagined local classics like mekitsi (deep-fried dough usually eaten with cheese and jam), head to one of the two locations of Fabrika Daga. The place is a popular social hub for local millennials, so you might need to plan in advance; Saturdays are especially busy, as brunches are considered by some to be the best in town. The menu is written on a chalkboard and the vibe is bohemian.
Black Label Coffee House and Bakery is another small but sleek-looking place. With a speciality selection of over 20 types of arabica, imaginative cold brew options and exotic tea types, the coffee shop caters for the pickiest coffee lovers. Not to mention the alluring smell of beans freshly roasted in front of visitors’ eyes. Baristas are friendly and knowledgeable, ready to help you choose a single-origin coffee suiting your taste. If you think speciality coffee is best combined with exquisite Italian gelato and homemade chocolates, Gelato & Latte is definitely worth a visit. Take the metro as you’ll have to leave the city centre – but the quality of flavour compensates for the extra effort in getting there.

Reinvented Bulgarian cuisine
Bulgarian food is hearty and diverse, inspired by rural traditions and Balkan influences. Grilled meat, bread, yoghurt and cheese are found in most dishes. Don’t miss local favourites like banitsa (flaky cheese pastry), shopska salad (tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers and onions with crumbly cheese), katyk (fermented milk product, usually from sheep’s milk and added cheese) and lutenitsa (conserved vegetable chutney, including tomatoes, paprika, carrots and garlic).
Contemporary upscale restaurants like Cosmos successfully reinterpret local flavours with sophisticated techniques and passion. From meatballs made of horse meat paired with exquisite grilled peppers puree and farmers’ katyk to roasted garlic with a mixture of edible flowers, the food is layered and original. Finish the evening with a Bulgarian rose dessert: vanilla sponge cake with yoghurt ice cream, pink pepper, strawberry-and-rose sorbet and rose meringue. Complemented by friendly service, the atmosphere is fresh and inviting.
For a more budget-friendly but flavourful experience, go to Crazy Diamond. The menu offers choices like homemade dips with marinated eggplants and tomatoes, Provençal soups, and colourful meat and vegetarian stews. Made in Blue is another trendy alternative in the heart of Sofia. Go for a roasted cauliflower steak with mushrooms or a bowl of fish soup with saffron; alternatively, try ‘grandma’s meatballs’ which are served straight from the pan. The cosy design contributes to the overall home-like feeling.

Creative vegan options
The traditional Bulgarian diet is predominantly meat-based, but these days there’s no shortage of inventive vegetarian and vegan dishes being cooked up by Sofia’s hip eateries.
The team at Soul Kitchen swears by their fresh and unrefined ingredients with pure origin – options are either raw or with minimum thermal treatment. Start with the exquisite pink hummus with roasted red beets, sesame tahini and kim, or try the replica of the traditional tarator (chilled cucumber and yoghurt) with cashew yoghurt, cucumbers, walnuts, dill and garlic. For the main course,  the broccoli and shiitake pizza covered in cashew garlic sauce and spicy chilli flakes definitely tingles the tastebuds.
With its two restaurant locations, Sun & Moon is a good choice for a nutritious vegetarian lunch or dinner. The menu includes filling stews and soups, prepared with fresh, seasonal ingredients and warm oriental spices; more than 15 types of organic wholegrain bread are baked on the premises every day. Order their healthy and imaginative variations of banitsa (the authentic one with cheese or imaginative spin-offs with lentils and imperial rice). Speciality coffee and Indian-spiced tea lattes are also available.

Chilled-out beer hangouts
Bulgaria’s capital will surprise you with its outrageously cheap beer, starting from about €1.50 for a pint. This explains why after-work beer hangouts are so deeply ingrained in local culture. More than a dozen beer houses in Sofia are powering this tradition by serving a wide selection of beers, accompanied by snacks like French fries and spicy sausages.
Head to Halbite for a wide selection of local and imported beers. Opt for Bulgarian craft varieties like Glarus pale ale, Mursalski red ale, Recipe #7 from Ah! Brewery, or the praised white stout, White Stork. Reach bliss point by ordering ‘the cannibal’, a massive mixed grill containing pork ribs, chicken wings and wurst sausages.
If a beer tab on your table sounds fun, pay Ale House a due visit. Their unfiltered ‘live beer’ has an excellent flavour – pour it yourself and refill as many times as you want. Alternatively, order any of the imported beer varieties complemented with homemade chips and local lutenitsa. Other pubs famous for their beer choice and laid-back vibes include Luciano and The Egg Bar.
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Sampling Sofia: best new food and drink spots

After enjoying Sofia’s eclectic cultural scene, laid-back atmosphere and many restaurants and clubs, many travellers head straight to Bulgaria’s Black Sea Coast resorts. But it’s well worth exploring closer to the capital to get a sense of the country’s authentic spirit that’s most visible in provincial towns and villages. Visit unique historic sites, marvel at soul-stirring mountains and bathe in natural hot springs that are all within day-trip range of Sofia.
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Ancient ruins in Plovdiv
Bulgaria’s ancient and romantic second city, Plovdiv is the 2019 European Capital of Culture for good reason. Ramble around the cobblestoned streets of the old town, have a peek at the 19th-century Bulgarian Revival–style mansions and climb at least one of its seven hills. The 200m-high Nebet Tepe (Prayer Hill) is particularly worth visiting for a stunning panoramic view; it also boasts the ruins of Eumolpias, a Thracian settlement dating from 5000 BC. Other highlights include the majestic Roman amphitheatre, built in the AD 2nd century under the reign of Emperor Trajan, and the Kapana artistic quarter, famous for its music and art festival that’s usually held in early June.
Getting there: Reaching Plovdiv takes just 90 minutes by car from Sofia (or even less due to the highway speed limit of 140 km/h). Buses and trains also run regularly; buses are more expensive but faster (it’s about two hours by bus and around three hours by train).
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Nature escape in Vratsa
Nestled in the foothills of the Vrachanska Mountains, Vratsa is a relaxed small town with charming pavement cafes, rich history and unspoilt nature on its doorstep. For a stroll with gorgeous views, opt for the bicycle track (which is mostly pedestrian) starting at the Hristo Botev square and ending at Chaika hotel and restaurant. Walking further, you’ll reach the Vratsata gorge, a natural phenomenon and a world-class rock-climbing spot. Alternatively, catch a taxi (around 15 lv one-way) and venture inside the famous Ledenika Cave (meaning ‘ice cave’) within the Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park. Don’t miss the regional history museum, whose prized possession is the Rogozen Treasure, a large collection of Thracian silver artefacts.
Getting there: Vratsa is easily accessible by car or bus (90 minutes to two hours). Buses depart almost every hour and cost around 12 lv. Another option is catching a train from Sofia’s Central Station (around 7 lv). Trains might have delays but the beautiful scenery of Iskar Gorge is well worth it.
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Hot springs in Sapareva Banya
There’s nothing more relaxing than a dip into a hot spring – even the Thracians and the Romans used to benefit from the restorative power of Sapareva Banya’s mineral waters. Choose your own spa indulgence at Complex Koko Hills or Sveti Nikola Hotel, among other top-rated spots; afterwards take a walk around the small town’s central area and check out the 18m-high geyser that’s considered the hottest in Europe (the water temperature is 103 degrees Celsius). Grab a traditional Bulgarian lunch at the nearby Geizera restaurant.
Getting there: Sapareva Banya is just about an hour’s drive by car from Sofia. No trains are available; buses aren’t recommended for a day trip as the earliest one usually departs in the afternoon.
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Trek to the Rilska Skakavitsa waterfall
For an exhilarating trek, strap on your backpack and head to the Rilska Skakavitsa waterfall. Situated on approximately 2000m above sea level, this is the highest waterfall in the towering Rila Mountains. The area is part of the Rila National Park and it’s rich in rare flora and fauna, including the endemic white fir. The hike is refreshing and relatively easy, taking about an hour to reach the Skakavitsa Hut. Here you can refuel with meatballs and shopska salad, before continuing with the trek for another half an hour to enjoy the pleasant shade of the forest and marvel at the crystal-clear water cascading from a height of 70m.
Getting there: The trek starts from Zeleni Preslap district. From Sofia, it’s a 90-minute drive to the village of Panichishte; from there, continue to Zeleni Preslap for another 13 minutes. There’s no dependable public transport.
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Spiritual experience at the Rila Monastery
Hidden in a lush valley in the Rila Mountains, the Rila Monastery is one of Bulgaria’s most revered landmarks that has served as a major religious and educational centre for centuries. Resembling a fortress, it features remarkable medieval architecture and religious art – pop into the main Church of Rozhdestvo Bogorodichno for a glimpse of splendid frescoes with apocalyptic  scenes. The legend says that Rila Monastery was founded by hermit monk St Ivan Rilski. The saint lived a simple life, devoted to God, in a mountain cave near the monastery. It’s an easy walk through the forest to this sacred place, where wishes are believed to come true.
Getting there: The easiest way to visit the Rila Monastery is by car (the drive from Sofia takes about two hours) or as part of a tour. Public transport isn’t very reliable so it’s not the best option for a day trip.
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Day trips from Sofia

Lonely Planet Local Yoana Hristova has had her share of roaming around the world, but she has returned to her home in Sofia only to fall in love with the city all over again. Rediscovering the Bulgarian capital’s charms for her has meant enjoying its laid-back atmosphere, green spaces, fun nightlife and the typically Balkan obsession with food and coffee.
The Ivan Vazov National Theatre is one of Sofia's elegant landmarks © YingHui Liu / Shutterstock" data-entity-uuid="bf214cb0-92cc-414b-9d2b-b65616ca63ba" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
What I love most about Sofia is… that it ’ s a capital city with a relaxed feel. Sofia offers a range of cultural experiences, from modern art exhibitions in spaces such as the Forum Art Gallery to offbeat historical sites like the Soviet-related Museum of Socialist Art. Lingering in cafes or soaking up the sun in one of Sofia ’ s numerous parks is almost a religion here. The pace of life is slow and the focus is on enjoying your companions and surroundings.
When I have friends in town… I cook for them or take them out for a meal. Food is a big deal in the Balkans and locals will make sure that the guests are well fed. For a tasty brunch in the city centre, my friends and I go to Fabrika Daga or Shtastliveca (they offer vegetarian and vegan options too). Next, we follow up with a sightseeing tour starting at the iconic Aleksander Nevski Cathedral, and finish with some shopping and ice cream on the popular Vitosha boulevard that leads us to the colourful gardens of the National Palace of Culture. On a sunny day, we opt for a meal at Bacon Bar & Dinner (you can ’ t go wrong with their shopska salad, featuring vegetables, Bulgarian white cheese, parsley pesto and a grilled hot pepper wrapped in bacon), and take a long stroll around Yuzhen Park.
The tranquil lake in Sofia's green Yuzhen Park is great for a stroll © Yoana Hristova / Lonely Planet" data-entity-uuid="7b6ffdc9-971a-4eca-a3db-587ee4b2bc20" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
When I ’ m up for a big night out… I ’ ll start with smooth jazz, a dinner and some red wine at Teahouse (try their signature vegan wrap, or enjoy a hearty stew and some spicy sausages). Afterwards, I like to spoil myself with a scoop of Italian ice cream at the central Afreddo. The real party starts at Club Terminal 1, where I go for live concerts and dancing. I also like visiting Rock ’ n ’ Rolla Club for a crazy night filled with rock music. For drinks, I regularly show up at The Shots (it ’ s best to go with a local as the pub is located outside the central area). On long summer nights, Maimunarnika turns into one of the trendiest outdoor stages for alternative concerts and parties.
For cheap eats… I often grab a mashed avocado sandwich or a warm bowl of soup at Supa Star. I love the affordable and healthy food options offered by Red Bell – in particular, their vegetable cream soups and homemade cakes are excellent. For authentic and relatively cheap Italian pizza, I go to Franco ’ s Pizza or Roma Bene, which is on the outskirts of the city.
MoMa Bulgarian Food & Wine restaurant is a popular dining venue in Sofia © Mark Baker / Lonely Planet" data-entity-uuid="877d3557-e037-4c4c-a6bd-be837b26d22f" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
My week can ’ t pass without… my daily cup of strong black coffee. I usually have it while catching up with a friend, sharing experiences and laughs and watching the passers-by. Another thing I almost never skip is sports. From yoga at Yoga Diwali and swimming at Anel Sport to fitness training in my neighbourhood, I practice daily.
A typical weekend involves… a morning run, followed by sipping coffee on the balcony and a walk in the company of good friends. When the weather is nice, I like wandering around the city parks and green spaces or in the nearby Mt Vitosha. If it ’ s cold and rainy, I prefer hanging out in cafes such as the one at Orange Book Center. Evenings are usually reserved for a dinner out, a hilarious play at Salza i Smyah theatre or a ballet performance at the National Opera House. Weekends are also a great time to have friends over or meet them for a beer at Luciano or Ale House. At least once a month, I travel to the picturesque town of Vratsa below the Vrachanska Mountains, to spend some time with my family.
Lonely Planet Local Yoana Hristova at Sofia's National Palace of Culture © Yoana Hristova / Lonely Planet" data-entity-uuid="cf57dfd1-1483-4378-b4f1-27dc53bb057b" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
When I need to relax... I head to one of Sofia ’ s most attractive parks, Borisova Gradina , for an invigorating stroll in the woods. Alternatively, I sit in the shade of one of its mighty oak trees and immerse myself in a good book. The secluded Doctors ’ Garden is another personal favourite that helps me escape from the bustle of the city.
When I want to get out of the city... I catch the Simeonovo gondola (accessible via bus lines 122 and 123) and hop off at the Aleko Hut station that ’ s a great starting point for a trek to Mt Vitosha ’ s highest peak, Cherni Vrâh (literally ‘Black Peak’). Escaping the urban life is easy in Sofia as the Vitosha Nature Park is just a 10km drive from the city. And if you ’re up for a r oad trip, within a few hours you can find yourself gasping at the soul-stirring scenery of the Rila Mountains and their Seven Rila Lakes .
Enjoying the panoramic views of Sofia from the top of Mt Vitosha @ Todor N Nikolov / Shutterstock" data-entity-uuid="69097956-7d9a-426e-b761-251e02d3db62" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
One thing I hate about Sofia… is the city ’ s public transport system. While everything is within walking distance in the centre, some neighbourhoods are not very well connected. The distances are not huge but commuting to work might take from 30 minutes to two hours, depending on where you live. Besides, I love cycling and walking but in some areas it ’ s impossible and even dangerous – cycling infrastructure is either completely missing or poorly executed. On the bright side, Sofia metro is brand-new and more stations are expected to open around the city.
You know you ’ ve been in Sofia too long… when you ’ re used to spending a summer evening chilling out on a park bench, drinking beer or rakija (local brandy, often home-made and awfully strong) with your friends – something that Sofia locals call a ‘ bench party’. One of the most popular spots for it is the National Theatre park.
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How to live like a Local in Sofia

One of Europe’s youngest capitals, Sofia also happens to be among its oldest settlements, stretching back several millennia from ancient Thracian and Celtic tribes through the Romans, Slavs and Ottomans to the present day. This impressive heritage lends the city a highbrow historical element to accompany the great food, drink and party vibe Sofia has always been known for.
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The full extent of the city’s ancient foundations only became clear in the past decade with the building of the metro. As bulldozers worked to lay rail, they unearthed whole streets, intact houses, baths and churches dating back almost 2000 years when Sofia was a Roman provincial capital, Serdica. Some excavation sites are now open to the public. Of course, having served as Bulgaria’s capital since the late 19th century (after the country gained its independence from the Ottoman Empire), Sofia offers a wealth of other historical and cultural attractions. Two days should suffice for taking in the highlights.
Day 1
Morning
Sofia History Museum in the former Mineral Baths building © Mark Baker / Lonely Planet" data-entity-uuid="9122d90c-165e-460d-b1c5-7ba0bdefe147" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
Get an early start with coffee at Fabrika Daga (ul Veslets 10), a trendy, third-generation roaster that blends beans from around the world. It’s a short walk to the Ancient Serdica complex, the heart of the old Roman city. Attached to the Serdika metro station, the remains of eight city streets, as well as fragments of houses and baths, are open to the public during metro operating hours (6am to 11pm).
This part of town was also the heart of Sofia’s communist ambitions, and the ruins are eerily ringed by grand socialist-realist edifices from the 1950s, such as the Party House and the TSUM department store. The Banya Bashi Mosque in the background harks back to yet another era, when Bulgaria was part of the Ottoman Empire.
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The nearby Sofia History Museum ( sofiahistorymuseum.bg) helps to weave together these fragments of time. Housed in a majestic former Turkish bathhouse, the museum has exhibitions on antiquity but is strongest on the late 19th century and Bulgarian independence.
Finish the morning with a stroll through the northern half of the centre, taking in the mosque as well as the enormous Sofia Synagogue. These days, this quarter is home to the city’s burgeoning Turkish community. Pop into Ege Türk (ul Tsar Simeon 108) for a simple but delicious kebab lunch to enjoy the fruits of this cultural mish-mash.
Afternoon
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The Archaeological Museum, housed in a former mosque, shows off the treasures of the Thracian empire that predated the Romans. Across the street, the President’s Building (another socialist-realist mega-structure) is closed to the public, but arrive at the top of the hour to see an elaborate changing-of-the-guard ceremony. Proceed through an archway in the President’s Building (to the left of the guards) to find another delightful time warp: tiny, red-brick Sveti Georgi Rotunda – built in the 4th century – tucked away in a sea of 20th-century grandiosity.
Take a break in the nearby City Gardens, a popular green spot fronted by the Ivan Vazov National Theatre. If you’re up for another museum, the Sofia City Art Gallery, also in the park, holds rotating exhibitions of contemporary art.
Evening
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Depending on the mood, begin with a stroll down bul Vitosha, an elegant pedestrianised street, lined on both sides by bars and cafes. For authentic local cuisine, try MoMa Bulgarian Food & Wine ( moma-restaurant.com), just a block west of Vitosha.
Check out the trendy side streets, such as ul Hristo Belchev and ul Angel Kanchev, for after-dinner drinks. One can’t-miss is the open-air cocktail bar Pavage (ul Angel Kanchev 9a).
Day 2
Morning
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Don’t leave the camera behind, as you start the next day at Sofia’s most iconic building: the Aleksander Nevski Cathedral. This magnificent church, its gold domes gleaming in the morning sunshine, took three decades to finish. It’s dedicated to Russian soldiers who perished to liberate Bulgaria from Ottoman domination. The crypt holds Bulgaria’s biggest collection of Orthodox icons. Nearby, the city’s namesake church, Sveta Sofia, dates from the 6th century, but the real treasure lies below ground: an ancient necropolis with some 50 tombs and the remains of four other churches.
Finish the morning at Sofia’s National Gallery Quadrat 500 ( nationalartgallerybg.org), by far the city’s biggest art collection. It’s perfectly fine to pick and choose among the gallery’s 28 rooms and thousands of paintings. The collection is strong on 19th-century Bulgarian painting as well as European masters from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Afternoon
A cheerful street mural in Sofia © Mark Baker / Lonely Planet" data-entity-uuid="0be073b8-da1c-428c-a693-337c865991fc" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
Make your way from the centre 8km south to the prosperous suburb of Boyana, at the foot of Mt Vitosha. The natural setting makes a perfect backdrop to perhaps Sofia’s most valuable relic: the Unesco-protected Boyana Church. Murals inside this miniature, 13th-century church show off Bulgarian medieval art at its best. Pair a visit with the National Museum of History for more Thracian gold and Roman statuary.
Evening
Sofia's monumental National Palace of Culture (NDK) © Mark Baker / Lonely Planet" data-entity-uuid="e47da0fb-e009-43d4-a5fb-f72d90525a00" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
For traditional Bulgarian food, including a plate of grilled meats and a shot of the national aperitif, rakia, you can’t go wrong with folksy Manastirska Magernitsa. A bit trendier, with a nod toward organic ingredients and farm-to-table freshness, is Made In Home (ul Angel Kanchev 30a).
To work off the meal, the National Palace of Culture (NDK), at the southern end of Vitosha, has several dance clubs scattered in and about. Popular clubs of the moment include Sofia Live Club and Switch (bul Bulgaria 2).

Tracing ancient Serdica: two days in Sofia

One of the Balkans' larger countries, Bulgaria makes an excellent place for road tripping. Despite now being an EU member, enough of Bulgaria’s wildness (literal and figurative) remains to guarantee that travellers have their own unique experiences while exploring the country.
Ivan Vazov National Theatre, Sofia. Image by David Holt / CC BY-SA 2.0 " data-entity-uuid="f4eebaee-4d52-47dd-a0e2-78edb07a69ea" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
Many drivers will be coming from the capital, Sofia. Once past the city traffic, roads everywhere in the country are more or less open. To visit some of Bulgaria’s loveliest woodland stretches, head east on the main A1 motorway, and veer south at Pazardzhik (114km from Sofia). Head 35km down the B-road passing Batak (the site of a famous 19th-century uprising against the Ottomans), and continue deeper into the Rhodope Mountains towards Dospot. Turning east the forested road (about 60km from Batak) leads to Devin, a small town famous for its mineral water and therapeutic hot springs. Devin makes a good place to relax, enjoy a therapeutic massage or two and hike on blissfully empty woodland paths.
The rooftops of old Plovdiv. Image by Klearchos Kapoutsis / CC BY 2.0 " data-entity-uuid="275be240-d6b7-439b-8eca-11a912d97f2b" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
Follow the curving road east and then north past Smolyan, a nondescript town with exciting caving opportunities, and the laid-back ski resort of Chepelare. Emerging from the winding mountain road, full of cliffs and stunning vistas, one reaches Asenovgrad, noted for its wineries, before arriving at Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s second (and arguably best) city. Plovdiv has all the services and attractions of a major population centre, but it especially takes pride in its old town. Set on curving, stone streets, the old town retains a bohemian air, and the numerous museums and galleries here are bursting with the work of modern masters and artists of old. The old town has some atmospheric places to stay, some decorated in the vibrant 19th-century ‘national renaissance’ style, and the nightlife is fuelled by an irrepressible student population.
From Plovdiv, take the E85 back road 108km straight north to Kazanlak, an eccentric, agricultural destination where an interesting mix of Bulgarians, Roma and ethnic Turks congregate in the town’s gregarious open market. Agriculture remains a bigger part of the mix here than in most provincial Bulgarian towns because Kazanlak, and its surrounding plain of the same name, is the centre of a major industry in rose oil extract, feeding the needs of perfumiers from around the world. A good time to visit is the first week of June each year, when the annual rose festival takes place.
The vibrant Shipka memorial church. Image by KamrenB Photography / CC BY 2.0 " data-entity-uuid="69a3aa0d-fa73-4086-9a4c-d8009589ea8a" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
Continuing north across the Valley of Roses leads to the base of the Stara Planina (Balkan) Mountain, which cuts Bulgaria into its northern and southern halves. A 4th-century BC Thracian tomb was discovered in the nearby village of Shipka (the contents of which are now displayed in Kazanlak’s museums), though the most dramatic sight here is surely the gold-domed Russian church standing guard over the 1300km high Shipka Pass.
The ‘street of arts’ in Veliko Tarnovo. Image by Andrey / CC BY 2.0 " data-entity-uuid="6af23dec-7bb9-4f99-98c1-6dcaad5ac08a" data-embed-button="images" data-entity-embed-display="media_image" data-entity-embed-display-settings='{"image_style":"","image_link":""}' data-entity-type="media">
Some 57km over the mountains from Shipka lies yet another historic settlement, this one famous as the medieval seat of Bulgarian power – Veliko Tarnovo, city of the tsars. Tarnovo is one of Bulgaria’s most visited destinations, and with its classic architecture, churches and castle it’s not hard to see why. Also a student city, Tarnovo has plenty of stylish accommodation to choose from, as well as excellent restaurants and lively bars. Along the way, don't miss Dryanovo Monastery, founded in the 12th century and 5km out of the village of the same name, alone in the woods by the base of a cliff.
Make it happen
EU driver's licences and international driver’s licences are accepted. The official number for emergency road assistance is 146. Keep an eye out for potholes and wandering livestock in smaller countryside roads.
This article was first published in November 2010 and was updated in October 2014.

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Vitosha Nature Park

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