Stockholm or Copenhagen: which Scandinavian city suits you?

Two travel writers go head-to-head to determine which Scandinavian city comes out on top: Copenhagen or Stockholm. Consider their arguments and decide for yourself – or just visit both.

Stockholm mixes park life, island time and world-class museums

Becky Ohlsen has written about Stockholm for Lonely Planet since 2003 and keeps finding new reasons to love her favorite city.

Why visit Stockholm? In a word: ABBA. Sweden’s capital city has fully embraced the country’s beloved musical supergroup, and a visit to ABBA: The Museum is mandatory for fans. It’s over-the-top campy, highly interactive and a lot of fun.

Stockholm does museums like no place else

Even if you’re somehow unmoved by history’s greatest pop group, Stockholm is a clear winner when it comes to museums. And we’re not talking stodgy yawn-fests, either. This city knows how to make a museum thrilling. Believe it! The old-school ones are deeply immersive and atmospheric; the newer ones are edgy and ambitious.

My favorite, Moderna Museet, has a deep archive and reliably mounts boundary-pushing exhibitions, often juxtaposing work by big international names (Picasso, Matisse) with lesser-known but important Scandinavian artists. Make it your mission to find Robert Rauschenberg’s goat sculpture (Monogram). Similarly, the Stockholm-founded super chic Fotografiska puts together multiple impressive and unpredictable photography shows each season. You might see Cindy Sherman's work in one room, hip-hop portraits in another and a Sebastião Salgado retrospective upstairs. The restaurant, aptly named the Fifth Exhibition, is its own draw, with epic views and a changing but always sustainable menu. (And open late, too: Fotografiska doubles as a great night out.)

At the opposite end of the timeline, Historiska Museet thrusts visitors into the daily life of the Vikings through an immersive display of thousands of objects, virtual reality augmentation and interactive exhibits. Speaking of immersive, you mustn’t skip the Vasamuseet, a fascinating ode to one of Sweden’s greatest failures. The impressive-looking warship sank just 20 minutes into its first voyage in 1628, but the vessel now redeems itself daily. Hundreds of visitors come to admire the ship, dredged from the water and restored to its former opulence through painstaking effort.

Other delightful museums include Millesgården, an outdoor sculpture garden at the home of a beloved artist; Fjärilshuset, a tropical greenhouse full of butterflies at Hagaparken; and Skansen, the oldest and arguably best open-air museum in Europe.

Sweden’s capital city is packed with parks

On the subject of parks, it’s difficult to walk two blocks in Stockholm without stumbling upon a green oasis. The city is about one-third park. The blossom-lined Kungsträdgården and the hilly, tree-shaded Humlegården are tucked in right beside nightclubs and restaurants, so at all times you’re about three steps away from a peaceful resting spot.

The much-visited island of Djurgården consists entirely of parkland and museums: Stockholm in a nutshell.

Choose your favorite island

Stockholm also has one of the most adorable and charming historic districts in existence: Gamla Stan. Just try to resist the pocket-sized Stortorget, the central square, with its colorful gingerbread buildings. Tip: Look for Grillska Husets in one corner; this konditori (bakery) sells the tiny cardamom-flavored custard treats called mumma. In winter, the square is taken over by a wonderful holiday market. The surrounding neighborhood’s narrow cobblestone streets reward aimless wandering; you might get lost, but it’s a tiny island, so that’s OK.

In fact, Stockholm is a collection of islands. Better yet, it’s surrounded by thousands more. The Stockholm Archipelago takes the beautiful Swedish capital to another level. With minimal effort, you can hop a ferry for a day trip to any number of nearby islands, exploring picturesque fishing villages, traditional farming homesteads, wild forests or imposing fortresses. If you weren’t already convinced to visit Stockholm, let the archipelago persuade you.

Why Copenhagen is the best place to go

Copenhagen resident and Lonely Planet Scandinavia contributor Laura Hall moved to the city in 2017 and has never looked back. She says that there’s only one clear winner for a weekend break.

Copenhagen is all about the vibe

One element puts Copenhagen head and shoulders above Stockholm, and it can’t be boiled down to anything more specific – it’s the vibe. Danes are a relaxed group, urbane and always up for a party. They’re much more fun than the more formal Swedes, and so is Copenhagen. (This might have something to do with the lack of control the state exerts on alcohol purchases in Denmark versus Sweden and Norway.)

It’s a good thing that Danes are fun, because their capital doesn’t have a lot of must-see attractions. Its main claim to fame is the Little Mermaid statue, often ridiculed for its disappointing size. But you’re not coming to Copenhagen for the sights, are you? That’s an old-fashioned way to travel. Come for the vibe instead. 

Copenhagen is imaginative and playful

A long weekend in Copenhagen – or a week if you can – is all about getting into a certain state of mind, a hopeful, playful mode of thinking that reminds you that life doesn’t have to be so serious. It shows you what a city is like when designed on a human scale, without skyscrapers blocking out the light and with pedestrian and cycle lanes helping you get around. 

Copenhagen says, "Imagine living your best life." Wake up in the morning and take a dip in the harbor before you start your day. Think you can do that in Stockholm? Think again. And that’s not all: in Copenhagen, you can ski down an urban power plant in the afternoon and eat at one of the world’s best restaurants in the evening. Play in imaginative playgrounds, and stroll around rose gardens and parks. Jump on a train for a day trip to visit Hamlet’s castle in the morning, then browse designer fashion boutiques in the afternoon. Everything’s easy to do and within easy reach. The world’s best chef, Rasmus Munk, lives here along with Lily Collins, Elijah Wood and Mads Mikkelsen – they can’t all be wrong.

Seriously, don’t even think about Stockholm

Copenhagen’s cobblestone streets, overgrown with roses in the summer and gilded with snow in the winter, melt the hardest of hearts. You can’t find anything quite like them amid the wide boulevards of Stockholm. Lined with pavement cafes ideal for people watching, along with bakeries, vintage shops and museums, they add an undeniable charm to this compact, accessible city.

There are some points where Copenhagen does fall down. Your budget will go further in Stockholm. While Copenhagen has a public ferry running up and down the harbor, it’s got nothing on Stockholm’s archipelago ferries and the magic of being among its islands. If you want island living, Sweden’s capital is your spot. 

But if you’re looking for nightlife, art, urban delights and a city that embraces a joyful, almost childlike approach to life, head to the city with the theme park, an anarchic freetown neighborhood, a historic jazz scene and truly some of the best food you’ll ever eat. (And if you still want a slice of Sweden, Malmö is only 35 minutes away by train.)