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Tivoli Gardens

Sarah Coghill/Lonely Planet

Swings at Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, Denmark.

One of the world’s oldest operating amusement parks, city-center Tivoli Gardens opened in 1843 and is genuinely enchanting. It's very Danish, whimsically pretty, with vintage rides, and details such as wandering peacocks and a boating lake. It has several seasons: Easter, summer, Halloween and winter, redecorated each time.

Attractions for All

View of boats on the lake at Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, Denmark.
View of boats on the lake at Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, Denmark. Suratwadee Rattanajarupak/Shutterstock

Tivoli originally lay outside the city limits, covering around 15 acres of land outside Copenhagen's Vesterport (West Gate), and it still has 15 different garden areas, including the Japanese, Hanging and Vintage Car gardens, as well as Parterre, landscaped in 1943 by Gudmund Nyeland Brandt.

View of the entrance to Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, Denmark.
View of the entrance to Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, Denmark. Nina Alizada/Shutterstock

Lots of the rides are ideal for everyone, including the scenic Dragon Boats on the boating lake, especially as the daylight begins to wane and the fairy lights twinkle. The lake was formed out of what was once the city moat. The classic carousel is a vintage whirl, and the Ferris Wheel takes you up for views across the gardens in small hot-air balloons, as it has since 1943. The Tivoli Aquarium is a 30m-long tank of exotic fish – around 1600 of them – and coral, including stingrays and reef sharks, and you can time a visit to coincide with their feeding (usually 1pm); however, there is an extra charge for visiting (50kr) if you don't have an unlimited ride pass. There are different light installations every season, and early evening projection shows over the Christmas period.

View of fireworks at Tivoli Gardens at night in Copenhagen, Denmark.
View of fireworks at Tivoli Gardens at night in Copenhagen, Denmark. elRoce/Shutterstock

Rides for Younger Kids

Small kids will enjoy rides such as the whimsical Hans Christian Andersen ride, the Flying Trunk, where you ride past tableaux of the great storyteller's tales. There are multiple fun rides for younger visitors. Fatamorgana is a family affair where you can choose either a wild swing ride that hurls you around at a force of 2.5G, or the gentler family section has animal-shaped gondolas – a smooth ride with views from 43m over the gardens. On the Astronomer, you ride in a bright, steam-punk spaceship, aiming your telescope at the surrounding lampposts, which will twinkle when you make a direct hit, while on the Galley Ships you navigate your boat around a large pirate ship.

View of a ride at Tivoli Gardens on a sunny day in Copenhagen, Denmark.
View of a ride at Tivoli Gardens on a sunny day in Copenhagen, Denmark. BBA Photography/Shutterstock

Rides for Thrill-Seekers

There's the Rutschebanen ("Rollercoaster"), built in 1914 and still roller coasting – it's so old-school that it still has an operator on board who has to control the brakes. Himmelskibet has swings that take you up high for a view over the city; on the Golden Tower, you're raised slowly upwards before dipping down at stomach-flipping speeds; the Demon is a rollercoaster with three loops; Aquila spins you upside down on giant eagles; and The Monsoon lifts you up 12m in various directions, next to a fountain. Villa Vendetta is a haunted house experience, for over 12s (with an adult) only: this is nothing like a creaky old Ghost Train experience; you walk through and actors in costume create heart-challenging jump scares.

Food & Drink

View of lollipops on sale in Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, Denmark.
View of lollipops on sale in Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, Denmark. Sarah Coghill/Lonely Planet

Food and drink includes street stalls – with hot dogs, of course. In winter gløgg (mulled wine) and æbleskiver (doughnut-pancakes) are sold. Tivoli food hall allows you all to choose different cuisines if you feel like it, from Indian to a Danish salad bar. In Tivoli's landmark Japanese pagoda, there's a changing roster of Michelin-starred chefs, or for slightly less high-end, try Brdr.Price, with home-style cooking in a light-filled interior, a restaurant part-owned by food critic Adam Price, who was a screenwriter and developer of Borgen.

Entertainment

There are fireworks every Saturday night, and "Fredagsrock" concerts take place on the outdoor Plænen stage on summer Friday evenings: these occasionally reach capacity, so go early. There’s also the 1874 open-air Peacock Theatre, with ballet (sometimes with sets designed by former Queen Marguerite), where you can catch a performance in the summer. Regular theater shows are performed here, but usually in Danish.

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