Ganpati, among other things, is known as the god who loves food. However, we seem to only talk about (and eat!) too few for the festival that is popular all over India and especially Maharashtra.

The modak is synonymous with the festival, of course, and as much as I love them myself (the steamed variety, especially), I cannot bring myself to pop a chocolate flavoured, Gulkand stuffed, salted caramel coated mawa modak—call me too old fashioned!

These recipes, typically made around Ganesh Chaturthi, are some of my favourites as they showcase seasonal variety, and are not limited to sweets. Do give them a shot this festive season!

Nivagrya

The nivagri is the brainchild of a clever cook, who decided to use up the cooked rice dough leftover after steaming modaks when the coconut-jaggery filling was used up. Paired with the modaks themselves and with a side of chutney and freshly churned unsalted butter, they make for a most delicious contrast. Truth be told, I am guilty of making extra dough on purpose just so I can have nivagrya! To make these exclusively, boil 1 cup of water with a good pinch of salt and 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. To this, add one heaping cup of fine rice flour. Stir to mix, turn off the flame, and leave covered for 10-15 minutes. Meanwhile, pound a green chilli, ¼ teaspoon cumin seeds and some coriander leaves with a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle until you have a coarse paste. Add this paste to the rice dough and knead well using a sprinkle of water and a greased hand. You should have a soft and pliable dough. Divide the dough into small balls, about the size of an Indian gooseberry (amla); then, flatten them to discs between your palms. Place these on a greased plate or banana (or turmeric!) leaf and steam for 8-10 minutes. Serve hot!

Rushichi Bhaaji

This “hermit’s” stew is made on the day after Ganesh Chaturthi, on Panchami, and is comprised of vegetables that are foraged and not grown in an organised manner—gourds, yams, leafy greens and the like. There are no powdered spices and no fat in the sense that it does not contain any tempering. The idea is to cook like a hermit in the forest would. The stew makes an excellent contrast to the previous day’s elaborate festive offering or naivedya, providing fibre and nutrition without any elaborate cooking. The only effort is in preparing the vegetables—clean and chop into large pieces, whatever seasonal vegetables you can find — a few kinds of gourds (bottle gourd/ridge gourd/sponge gourd/ash gourd), pumpkin, local corn cut unto chunks, yams and tubers (elephant foot yam/purple yam/sweet potato, colocasia root), raw banana, okra, leafy greens (peeled stems and leaves of colocasia and amaranthus, spinach, etc.), drumsticks, fresh peanuts, and whatever other vegetables you like. Make a coarse paste of freshly grated coconut, a small knob of ginger, cumin seeds, a green chilli, and some fresh green coriander. Place the hard vegetables (tubers and roots, drumsticks, etc.) in a pot with some water and salt. Cover and cook until half done. Then, add the corn, okra, and gourds, and cook again for few minutes. Add the greens and the ground paste next., followed by a little tamarind extract and jaggery for balance. Simmer until well combined. Serve hot with chappatis or plain rice.

Patole

I was introduced to this as an easy alternative to modak, but if you ask me, the patole stands its ground as a distinct dish. Redolent of the aroma of the turmeric leaves in which it is steamed, the patole is made by spreading a thick rice flour batter on the leaf, spooning some coconut and jaggery filling in the centre and folding it over. Once steamed, the leaf parcels are then uncovered in the last minute and served with a liberal drizzle of ghee.

Seven-layered Ghaavan

Thin rice crepes, cooked one after the other in the same pan with a stuffing of the coconut-jaggery mixture typical of the Konkan, this lesser-known dish is a delicacy that requires some skill. The neer dosa-like batter takes some practice to handle especially on a cast-iron skillet, which imparts a characteristic flavour. The Indian “crepe cake”, if you ask me!

Dahi Pohe

Marathi Hindu homes have a tradition serving a spoonful of dahi (natural yogurt) when a person sets off on a journey. I remember always carrying a dabba of curd rice when going on a long train journey. And so, when we bid Ganpati adieu, we pack him off with a small portion of dahi pohe—washed thick poha mixed with dahi and tempering of chillies and cumin seeds or fried saandgi mirchi (sundried chillies stuffed with spices).

The author is a popular writer and culinary consultant and author of Crumbs! Bread Stories and Recipes for the Indian Kitchen and the award-winning Pangat. Find her on www.instagram.com/skoranne

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