Locals will tell you To Spitiko is the best in town, but at research time it managed to run out of roast lamb and pork by 7.30pm in early May (blaming high season!). Nonetheless, the food at this one-room taverna overlooking the main square does satiate your desires for an authentic Cretan evening out.
Spaghetti with kid (goat; €7.50) or anything baked in the clay oven or sautéed in the saucepan is the direction you should be heading, though vegetarians could do worse than the gemista (zucchini, tomatoes and bell peppers stuffed with rice and veggies). The free dessert is impressive!