Guide to summer in New Hampshire

Jagged peaks, serene valleys and island-dotted lakes lurk in every corner of New Hampshire. The entire state begs for exploration, whether looking for loons near one of the many lakes or trekking around Mt Monadnock. Summer is filled with days of swimming in crisp mountain streams and picking fresh berries at local farms.

Take a breath and recalibrate in New Hampshire this summer. You'll feel inspired by the art and culture, connected to nature and rejuvenated by the pace. Read on to plan the perfect trip.

Base yourself in a charming village

Portsmouth 

Vibes: Perched on the edge of the Piscataqua River, Portsmouth is one of New Hampshire's most elegant towns. Proximity to the coast brings lobster feasts and moody fog-drenched mornings. While storied, with historic 18th-century buildings along tree-lined streets, Portsmouth is also bursting with youthful energy. The vibrant restaurants and cafes mingle with numerous museums and historic houses while the vital ship-building industry still makes a name for itself at the oldest continuously operated shipyard in the US.

Do: Spend a couple of hours at Strawberry Banke, a 10-acre outdoor history museum filled with buildings that date back to the 17th century. Costumed reenactors bring New England traditions of yore to life, from blacksmithing to baking to post-and-beam construction, while the array of architectural gems is a visual feast. Then book a kayak tour of Sagamore Creek with Seven Rivers Paddling where you'll paddle past tiny islands amid wildlife.

Eat: Lobster rolls (would you want to eat anything else in summer?) from Sanders Fish Market in Portsmouth and Petey’s Summertime Seafood in nearby Rye.

Stay: The boutique Hotel Thaxter in Portsmouth offers high contemporary style in a downtown building from 1860.

Take a day trip: The Isles of Shoals are located some 7 miles off the coast of Portsmouth and saw some of the first settlements of European colonists in the 17th and 18th centuries. Later, the 19th century brought the opening of breezy summer hotels and artists and writers like Ralph Waldo Emerson, Nathanial Hawthorne and Celia Laighton Thaxter coming to be inspired by these rocky islands. You can take a day trip from Portsmouth with Isles of Shoals Steamship Company to explore the rustic Oceanic Hotel and take quite walks around Star Island.

Hanover

Vibes: The quintessenial New England college town, Hanover is full of frisbee games on green lawns fronting Georgian ivy-covered buildings. Academics from Dartmouth and locals mingle at laid-back cafes along the winding Connecticut River. Its hard to reist the allure of Mt Sunapee State Park with is delightful sandy beach and the beautiful lake forests surrounding it.

Do: Hanover is a cozy-core lovers dream. Rent a kayak or canoe at Storrs Pond recreation area for low-key scenic paddling or hike the Gile Moutnain Trail with sweeping valley views. But you'd be remiss if you didn't explore Hanover's amazing art collection. The Hood Museum of Art on Dartmouth's campus houses nearly 70,000 pieces and is particularly strong in American art. On the north side of the green the Baker-Berry Library is home to an impressive mural by renown Mexican muralist José Clemente Orozoco who taught at the school from 1932-1934. Finally explore the sculptures of Augustus Saint-Gaudens who created recasts of all his most famous works that are now scattered throughout the beautiful grounds of his estate turned historical park.

Eat: At Lake Sunapee’s southern tip in Newbury, Bubba’s Bar & Grille has a waterfront location and menu of classics that practically scream summer (it’s a great stop-off point on the way to Mt Sunapee State Park). Come hungry to Jesse’s Steakhouse in Hanover, where steaks, ribs, crab legs and other indulgent fare is served in a rustic, taxidermy-heavy dining room.

Stay: Near Mt Sunapee’s runs, the Hideaway Inn welcomes guests to its rustic-chic rooms all year long. And the hospitality is of an Ivy League caliber at the Hanover Inn, which overlooks Dartmouth’s Green (main quad).

Spend a day at: Mt Sunapee State park is the perfect place to spend a day at the lake. There is a wide sandy shore at Lake Sunapee which is lovely for picnicking and splashing in the water. Canoes and kayaks are available to rent near the beach.

Peterbourough

Vibes: Think morning hikes among whispering leaves and afternoons at a bookshop with tea and sandwiches. Peterbourough is a tiny, picturesque village filled with redbrick houses along the idyllic Nubanusit Brook. Home to a thriving arts community anchored by the nearby MacDowell Colony, the country's oldest art colony founded in the early 1900's. Peterborough is also nestled between Temple Mountain and Mt Monadnock, making it an ideal gateway to captivating country hikes.

Do: Climb Mt Monadnock, the granite-topped massif that can be seen all over southwestern New Hampshire. (Amazingly, it’s the second-most-ascended mountain in the world, after Mt Fuji.) There are half a dozen routes for reaching the top from Monadnock State Park. The reward comes after you reach the tree line, when 360° views reveal rolling countryside for miles (and, on the clearest days, the skyline of Boston, 80 miles away). Transcendentalist writers Henry David Thoreau and Ralph Waldo Emerson were Monadnock fans – and, as you savor the panorama of nature from the summit, you will be, too.

Eat: For breakfast check out the photogenic Peterborough Diner which dates to 1950. A loyal fan base comes for omelets, pancakes and piping hot coffee. Post hike make your way to Aesop's Table which is tucked inside the Toadstool Bookshop for sandwiches. Finally, an evening at the Coopershill Irish pub promises a convivial atmosphere, a hearty shepherd's pie and occassional live music.

Stay: You'll find quiet lodgings at Riverhouse, a mile north of downtown Peterborough, this small motel has cheerfully designed rooms and three guest houses near the Contocook River, making it a great place to getaway for a weekend (or more) in the woods.

How to book your accommodations

Few things beat a lakefront cottage during a New England summer – and, lucky for you, diminutive New Hampshire has more than 1,000 lakes. Short-term rentals with decks and docks abound – though you should count on booking in the dead of winter to secure the most primo properties.

Historic inns and resorts dot the state, too, harkening back to the era when bourgeois urbanites would escape the city for the summer season. Two of the grandest are Wentworth by the Sea in New Castle, a Gilded Age grande dame that’s been retrofitted with stylish contemporary amenities. Other historic yet modernized properties around the state include The Centennial in Concord, Eagle Mountain House in Jackson and Thayers Inn in Littleton.

Take a ride on the Conway Scenic Railroad

Sure, it’s a train to nowhere. But the lovingly restored engines and smiling, uniformed personnel on this historic railroad make any ride a delight. At the grand station in North Conway (dating to 1874), you’ll board a vintage carriage for either a short (hour-long) run south through the woods (then back again), or the 4.5-hour out-and-back ride through spectacular Crawford Notch. Pack snacks, a deck of cards, a book – or just look out the window to enjoy the leafy scenery.

Seek out New Hampshire’s seasonal bounty

Nothing says “summer in New Hampshire" like pulling over for a bit (or, well, a heaping) of ice cream at a roadside creamery. One of the state’s best is Memories in Kingston. It’s the kind of place where a kiddie cone comes with three scoops. (Expect to queue.) On a little-traveled road in what looks like a backyard, Balthazar’s Ice Shack in Goshen has flavors by the dozen, as well as shakes, frappés and sundaes.

Farm stands are also a seasonal highlight. In every corner of the state, you’ll see stalls and sometimes just carts piled high with just-picked produce (the corn never ends in August). Since people are honest in these parts, it’s all available to purchase by putting some cash in a box. For a more curated experience, as well as prepared foods made from the (very) local harvest, stop at a visitor-friendly working farm like Mayfair in Harrisville or Moulton in Meredith.

Getting there and around

Count on getting to and around New Hampshire by car. While several interstate highways make crossing the state efficient, it’s on the winding state and county roads that the you’ll see the soul of the state. Ponds glitter through leaves just beyond the bend. “Connected farm” structures – with houses linked with barns via covered passageways known as “ells” – zoom by by the dozen. Centuries-old cemeteries are marked with stone walls laid by hand. A drive through New Hampshire’s back roads is a true delight.

While the state is compact, windy roads and hilly terrain mean that distances are rarely measured as the crow flies. So take your time to (carefully!) admire the landscapes as you drive, and by all means pull over at as many roadside country stores, historic markers and scenic viewpoints as you can manage.

What to pack

Think practical over fashionable (this is New England, after all): simple tees, lightweight pants, a waterproof shell and a jacket and/or sweater for cool evenings will be staples. Consider moisture-proof layers and hiking boots for deep-woods trails. A swimsuit is essential for dips in town ponds, rushing brooks or the Atlantic. And bug spray is never a bad idea.