Food talk with Chef Gaggan

Chef Gaggan Anand is a culinary magician in the kitchen who has indelibly changed how the world perceives Indian cuisine.

The name Gaggan Anand immediately conjures a sense of respect that goes far beyond culinary circles. And rightly so. After all, Gaggan has been awarded two Michelin stars and topped Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list for four years in a row. Easily the most celebrated Indian chef, he has always known to chart his own trajectory and a part of his life story has been dramatized in Netflix’s Chef’s Table too.

Finding his Calling

For someone who grew up in Kolkata, food was always a fond memory in his growing years and the varied cuisine of the annual Durga Pujo festivities instilled a strong food connect as well. “The last four days of Pujo was dedicated to different kinds of cuisine. One day had to be Bengali food and the best Bengali food is khichdi and it was something I waited for throughout the year. The pandal in my colony had cooks who would make different cuisines from vegetarian, Bengali, non-vegetarian and all kinds of sweets and it has been the most amazing memory. During Durga Pujo there would be food stalls that would come up selling fish cutlets, chicken rolls, puchkas and all kinds of street foods which was the biggest joy of my life.” The nostalgia of food and choices available in Kolkata defined his love for food early on. After studying at Institute of Hotel Management and Catering Technology in Kerala, he dabbled with a few jobs in India before moving to Bangkok and eventually opened his celebrated eponymous restaurant Gaggan in 2010 and in November 2019 he came up with his swanky new three-storied restaurant Gaggan Anand in Bangkok.

Food, Food

While Gaggan admits he never thought he would reach the heights he has, he also says it was not something that was his goal. “What I have achieved is through sheer hard work and perseverance. Looking back at the last 42 years it has been eventful, but the current situation is quite depressing and if restaurants shut and I go bankrupt, I know that I will probably start afresh again.” His food is best defined as ‘progressive Indian cuisine’ and he explains it with a simple analogy. “Progression is a platform of art where you can do something different. Gajar ka halwa is a typical winter dessert as it is best eaten hot, but it is not something that can be eaten in summer. But if you convert it into an ice cream you have something that can be versatile enough to be eaten all year round.” Known to rebel Gaggan adds “you have to go for what is ethical and what is respectful and fight for causes that are right.” For someone who believes that it is his people that make his restaurant what it is, his staff are like his family and he has started food delivery to help them tide over the current COVID-19 situation

Restaurant Fix

Opening his new restaurant Gaggan Anand last year was not easy considering his own reputation and standard of food that was served at his restaurant ‘Gaggan’. However, he had some things clear which ensured that he could pull it off in a few months. “I had to create something that was completely new and yet based on what I have been cooking for the last 20 years. After all, I cannot shy away from that but evolved it to the second level. So, eating at Gaggan Anand is more fun, relaxed and the menu is more cooked, and evolution has happened with the food. I created something that will make people happy.” Gaggan has also very recently opened Ms Maria​ &​ Mr Singh in Bangkok, a brand new restaurant. “This is an incredible project that came from my idea that Indian and Mexican food that is so similar and yet so different can be combined. It is also a place that is helping us now as we are doing home deliveries of food through the restaurant.

Indian food is a lot about naan and kulchas while Mexican is a lot about tortilla which is nothing but makki ki roti so it is a transformation. We have the Kheema quesadillas which are nothing but Kheema paratha and instead of butter we have nice cheese in it.” Quiz him about his comfort food and he says he likes to keep it simple – dal, chawal, papad and achar. His Bengal roots are also seen in his food especially in the usage of fish, mustard oil and lots of fresh greens. Gaggan is also part of a new initiative called Culinary Culture which will be an unbiased dining guide to restaurants in India. “I was invited by Sameer Sain (Founder of Everstone Group) and was very happy to be part of it and it makes sense once people restart visiting restaurants.” His biggest lesson has been something that we all need and can use now which is “never give up.”

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