Relish the distinctive cuisine of Mangaluru & Udupi

Sitting on the Arabian Sea, Mangaluru (formerly Mangalore) keeps many a foodie hooked with its sensational, spicy seafood. Just an hour or so inland, temple town Udupi is famed for its veg cuisine.

Coastal Cuisine

The coastal region of Karnataka boasts an eclectic cuisine that bears the greatest influences from four communities—Bunt, Goud Saraswat, Catholic, and Konkani Muslim. The kitchens of these communities draw more or less from the same ingredients but vary in their interpretations, making for an exciting mix of flavours.

There are two preparations that, more than others, define the culinary identity of the region: the Mangalorean ghee roast (think slow-cooked piquant masalas coating fresh seafood or chicken), and the dosa, which though ubiquitous now in south India, originated in Udupi. Yet, do not overlook the unassuming neer dosa (a light crepe made from rice batter) that is perfect for mopping up not just your crab ghee roast but also the unctuous kozhi gussi (a chicken curry flavoured with coconut and tamarind) or the humble puli kodel (a Mangalorean okra delicacy made with coconut masala). For something a little lighter, there is Udupi’s comforting tomato rasam and mude (cylindrical idlis steamed in jackfruit leaves). As for teatime hunger pangs, there are delicacies such as Mangalore buns (fluffy pooris made from fermented flour and bananas), churmuri (puffed rice mixed with vegetables, peanuts, coconut oil, lemon, and sometimes grated raw mango), and semige rasayana (rice noodle cakes with coconut milk and jaggery).

Culinary Itinerary

Tuluva-Mangalorean cuisine is the umbrella term covering the varied delights of this region where Tulu is a widely spoken language. Here ingredients such as coconuts, rice, curry leaves, and seafood are taken to great heights.

Start with a robust breakfast of filter coffee and avalakki upma (rice flakes covered with a mix of dry poha and boondi, and tempered with coconut oil, curry leaves, and dry red chillies) at Anmol Family Restaurant; they do a yummy chiku sheera too. Then get straight to the temples and beaches in and around the city.

Someshwara Temple

Located in Ullal, 9km off Mangaluru at the confluence of the Netravati River and the Arabian Sea, this Shiva temple boasts a stunning backdrop. The temple stands at the site of a fort built by the 16th-century Rani Abbakka Devi, a freedom fighter who resisted Portuguese rule.

Beaches near Mangaluru

A breezy stretch of beaches is one of Mangaluru’s highlights, particularly the golden Ullal Beach, 12km south of the city. Other options include Panambur (10km) and Suratkal (14km), home to the landmark NITK lighthouse.

Work up an appetite for a traditional Mangalorean lunch at Foodland, which specialises in Bunt food. Try the squid ghee roast with neer dosa. Post-lunch, either go temple-hopping or head to the unique Ashram Surfing Retreat in Mulki to ride the waves and consume cleansing vegetarian food.

For an early meal, Hotel Karthik is a quick stop for tuppa (ghee) dosa and a ‘reverse’ filter coffee, a layered concoction of milk, coffee and foam. Else grab some crab ghee roast or a fish thali at Machali.

Sri Krishna Matha

Arrive at Udupi for a visit to the atmospheric Sri Krishna Matha, chased up with an authentic Udupi dosa at Woodlands a few steps away. This 13th-century Krishna temple is a major draw in Udupi, with thousands queuing up to get a glimpse of the idol that can be seen through a metal perforation.

Coin Museum

The evolution of Indian coins right from their inception to the latest launch can be traced in the old home of Corporation Bank founder, Khan Bahadur Haji Abdullah Haji Kasim Saheb Bahadur.

With its creative decor, Thaamboolam is a convenient lunch option, and not far from the excellent Museum of Anatomy and Pathology. Do pop into Hotel Diana nearby for a round of ‘gadbad’ ice-cream for dessert.

Reserve the evening for a drive along the coast back to Mangaluru for a meal at Shetty Lunch Home. Its Kundapura branch, incidentally, is believed to be the originator of the ghee roast, which gets its unctuous yet piquant taste from a paste of Bydagi chillies and other spices slow-cooked for as long as six hours in ghee. The mixture is particularly delicious with seafood and chicken but you will also find vegetarian versions featuring the likes of mushrooms and cottage cheese.

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