Why New Zealand is unmissable

Superlatives are a travel editor’s worst nightmare. They’re typically clichés that rely on worn stereotypes, and they’re often factually incorrect. But here’s the thing: It’s impossible to write about New Zealand without feeling like you’re constantly waxing poetic. Except, in doing so, you’re not exaggerating or leaning on worn tropes – you’re simply stating the facts. 

The mountains really are that rugged, with snow-capped peaks that pierce the clouds. Every landscape – from steaming volcanic valleys to rolling green hills swathed in thousands of fluffy white sheep – is hyper-saturated. Lakes and ocean bays only come in two shades: aquamarine and turquoise. And yes, the people really are that friendly. It’s the only country where I almost look forward to going through customs, thanks to its friendly border agents.  

I first visited New Zealand on a quick trip from Sydney, Australia, where I then lived. Short on time – as many travelers are – I tackled the classic North Island tourist triangle: I had a drink at the Green Dragon Inn in Hobbiton, gazed in awe at the twinkling ceilings of Waitomo’s glowworm caves and watched a Māori kapa haka (performing arts) show in Rotorua. 

I wanted more. So I kept returning, eventually spending 3 years house-sitting all over Aotearoa (NZ’s Māori language name), from the snowy Alps of the South Island to the subtropical warmth of the North Island. Today, I proudly call Christchurch (Ōtautahi) home. There’s a long stretch of wide sandy beach 5 minutes from my house in one direction and mountains 60 minutes in the other. I could theoretically surf and ski in the same day, but I’m more of a “hike and spa” kind of gal. (I highly recommend a combo of walking Washpen Falls followed by a glass of bubbly in the waters of Ōpuke Thermal Spa in Methven.)

The best part about living in Aotearoa is that the sense of discovery never ends. Around every corner, the landscape feels alive as it shifts and changes, packing a staggering amount of diversity into a small package. It’s an outdoor adventurer’s dream, with blissful backcountry hiking and biking trails, subtropical waters for scuba diving, slopes for snow sports and a zillion waterfalls to swim in. (OK, maybe that last one is an exaggeration, but it doesn’t feel far off.) Love art, architecture and food? You can’t miss spots like Hawke’s Bay, where Art Deco architecture, vineyards and award-winning restaurants are bathed in sun; or Wellington, which earns its title of “the coolest little capital” with its boutique shopping, craft beer and music scene. 

Of course, NZ’s relative isolation has also resulted in what some might call “innovative,” and what others might think of as “downright weird,” like Oamaru’s love of all things steampunk. See someone in Victorian garb riding a penny farthing through the city? That’s just how they get to work. 

Underpinning this all is a tourism industry that’s working toward regeneration and the celebration of biculturalism. You’ll hear te reo Māori (the Māori language) widely used and spoken and see concepts like kaitiakitanga (guardianship) and manaakitanga (hospitality and kindness).

New Zealand may be a country of superlatives, but there’s one thing everyone does get wrong. This isn’t a once-in-a-lifetime destination. It’s a country worth revisiting time and again, until you’ve explored every nook and cranny. Then, do it all again.