3 perfect days in Los Angeles, California

I love Los Angeles: the beaches, the mountains, the food, the culture. Actually, it’s all the different cultures and ethnicities and histories that make LA so fascinating and compelling, especially in and around Downtown. With so much to do, see, eat, drink and enjoy, three days may feel like short-shrift, but rest assured, it doesn’t take long to fall in love with LA. It’s one in a million. Follow my fun-filled weekend, replete with historical significance, delicious food, shopping and sport. If you're heading to Los Angeles for FIFA World Cup this summer, there's a lot of good stuff here to bookmark.

• When to arrive: I flew into LAX midday on a Friday. If you have the option to fly into Burbank Hollywood Airport, that’s the best and least stressful arrival option.

• How to get from the airport: Rideshares are easiest; but you have to take a shuttle bus to get to the pickup lot, and that can take a while (20 minutes for me). Renting a car is another option – there’s not much by way of public transportation.

• Getting around town: Drive or be driven. The Metro can be a great way to get around, but ultimately, this is a short trip, and you’ll maximize your time using rideshares. 

• Where to stay: I stayed downtown at Hotel Figueroa, which is stunning and brimming with history. Another excellent Downtown option is the Los Angeles Athletic Club. If you prefer to wake up to the sound of waves, stay at Shutters by the Beach.

• What to pack: It was 80℉, so I am glad I packed accordingly, but always bring a sweater or a light jacket because it can get cooler at night. LA is not fussy when it comes to attire, so no reason to worry about what to wear unless you’re into cultivating a look.

Day 1: Friday

I made it to Hotel Figueroa in the afternoon (Uber from the airport cost 45 American dollars, or US$45). The room wasn’t ready, but that gave me time to read up on the hotel's history and poke around. Hotel Fig (as it is affectionately known) opened in 1926 as a women-only hostel. 

Back then, women couldn’t check into any hotel without a male chaperone – Hotel Figueroa is the first hotel financed by and exclusively for women guests. There’s a black-and-white photo of the founders in the mezzanine above the lobby. I wanted to high-five each and everyone of them. The hotel honors their heritage by displaying the work of a rotating cadre of women artists on its walls.

Later I grabbed a quick bite, the chilaquiles at the lobby bar (part of the hotel’s all-day dining option, Cafe Fig) were perfection, then made my way to sit by their mysterious coffin-shaped pool just before the sun started to set. 

Dinner

While parts of downtown are walkable, at night and alone, I didn’t feel comfortable walking the mile to dinner, so I ordered an Uber. There’s a lot of talk about the unhoused population in LA, but I didn’t find it too worrying (as a New Yorker, I’ve seen a lot of stuff), it’s just really sad, and I hope it gets better.

OK, so we have to talk about Manuela. In the Arts District, adjacent to downtown, this gorgeous restaurant is located in Hauser & Wirth, an art gallery that oozes cool elegance, in a camera-ready space. See works by contemporary artists Paul McCarthy, Mark Bradford and Raymond Pettibon while sitting in the idyllic plant-filled courtyard.

If you order only one thing here, make it the cream biscuits with ham and butter. It feels anachronistic given the environs, but the composition of the dish is artistic. It works beautifully. I also tried the venison burger, because I'm always open to something new, and by golly, it was one of tastiest burgers I've ever had. The server at my table recommended a cocktail called the Archie: beet-infused Illegal mezcal, oroblanco (pomelo and white grapefruit hybrid citrus fruit) and lemon. Beet mezcal is the tipple I never knew I needed!

After dark

Not quite ready for bed, but uninterested in going to a third location, I returned to the hotel lobby to sit by a roaring fireplace and have a cup of tea. Prime time people watching is my idea of a hot night.

Day 2: Saturday

I love breakfast and Cafe Fig offers a lot of options. I opted for the breakfast burrito before heading out to start my busy day of exploring.

How to spend the day

As the Olympics are coming to town in 2028, I kicked off at the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum. It's a stunning stadium that dates back to 1923 (that's more than a century to you math people). Having hosted two Olympics in the past (1932 and 1984 Summer Olympic Games), the 1959 baseball World Series and two Super Bowls, it is the permanent home of University of Southern California Trojans (American) football team.

My private tour was truncated because of the most LA thing ever: a closed set for filming a top secret film. I did get to see the swanky new suites where the rich and famous take in all of the events they host. I also got a look at their offices, where the walls are decked out with memorabilia from major events the stadium has hosted. The usual tour takes visitors to the press box and onto the field, so I must go back and try again.

A short walk took me to the Natural History Museum. If you love dinosaurs, planet earth and remembering how insane it is that earth is 4.5 BILLION YEARS OLD, then this is the stop for you. I spent a few hours wandering the pre-historic exhibits, voracious for information about our planet, the massive creatures that once roamed it, and blown away by the idea that there was once an ocean in the midwest of the US.

Afternoon

After my marathon morning of sightseeing, it was time for lunch. I Ubered to ROW DTLA, a 32-acre outdoor complex that harkens to Los Angeles's industrial origins (some of the structures are more than a century old). With lots of unique creator-led shops, a gallery, studio space and a smorgasbord of decadent dining, I started with a "bite," aka an entire pizza to myself, at Pizzeria Bianco. I'm a New Yorker and a pizza snob, and I was not disappointed. The wood-fired margarita (plain but perfect) was toothsome and tasty, not chewy, and I added some fresh arugula to the top for "health."

Then it was time to window shop the dynamic and diverse stores and spaces: standouts included Besties, an all-vegan grocery chain; Bodega, a streetwear and sneaker brand known for having a secret hidden entrance as well as a collection of limited edition products; and Friday Gallery, which showcases the work of artists from the global south. (ROW is also home to the 7th Street Produce Market, but my timing was off so I didn't get to peruse the goods.)

Dinner

I'm glad I walked and walked around ROW because I had dinner only a few hours later. The Italian theme was unintentional, but my evening meal was at 9-year-old Rossoblu, in the Fashion District of DTLA. During my meal inside an airy warehouse-like dining room decorated with a stunning mural by artist collective Cyrcle, I was blessed to chat with chef and owner Steve Sampson. He told me about the summers he spent in Bologna, Italy, with his grandparents, and how the menu is infused with familial love and history (some of the dishes are named for Sampson's Bolognese relatives and family friends).

Order Valbruna's eggplant, Anna's minestra nel sacco (Parmigiano Reggiano dumplings in broth) and Olimpia's tagliatelle al ragu. I ended the meal so full, and yet...I had to order dessert. I was leaning towards an affogato when Chef insisted I get the fior di latte gelato with balsamic vinegar. That flavor combination did not sound appetizing at first, but I'm so glad I ordered and ate it, because now (like any normal lady would) I'm putting balsamic on my vanilla ice cream.

Day 3: Sunday

I had scheduled a morning workout at the Los Angeles Athletic Club, a gorgeous property that dates from the 1880s. A private member's club that includes a hotel, which makes their incredible facilities available to guests. I opted for a water aerobics class, followed by a sauna. You haven't lived until you've taken a water aerobics class; what a fun way to meet people and feel like a kid again! I am definitely staying here next time in LA.

How to spend the day

You can't go to Los Angeles without going to the beach (or I don't think you should), so I made my way to Venice to walk the famous boardwalk and do some world-class people-watching. It was a perfect day: sun shining, water glinting, everyone running, walking, cycling, roller-blading, and just living the California dream.

I walked for about an hour before making my way to Abbot Kinney for brunch at the Butcher's Daughter, which was so crowded and bustling, I had to wait 15 minutes just to tell them I had arrived for my reservation. Luckily it was worth it; more people-watching, and the most on-brand avocado toast on earth.

I wandered the famous boulevard after my lunch, popping into shops that are sadly more chains than independents. It is what it is, but thankfully the boardwalk maintains Venice's quirky, zany origins.

After my bougie stroll, I took it to the next level with a visit to Den Mothe r, also on Abbot Kinney, an indoor-outdoor spa situation that is truly magnificent. I went for a private sauna and cold plunge circuit: 30 minutes of exquisite extremes that invigorated and relaxed me. I wrapped it up with a brief head and neck massage in the common area. I could hear hear a group of young women talking about their Cabo weddings within earshot; no judgment, just a lot of chitchat during what was supposed to be a relaxing treatment.

Evening

The final experience of my weekend sojourn was a Lakers game, a short walk from Hotel Figueroa. If you haven't seen a professional basketball game, and I've been to many, you've got to add Crypto.com Arena to your list. Tickets aren't extortionate, though the food and drink choices are. Thanks to my Discover Los Angeles hosts, I got a gift card, so I spent with a bit more abandon than usual. Get to Ludo Bird early for delicious chicken sandwiches. (Note: Crypto is also where all the gymnastic events will be held during the 2028 Summer Olympics.)

The game was tight, LeBron was on fire, and I felt, once again, like a kid. In fact my seat mate was a 9 year-old boy with his mom. I drank my beer, chuckling as he peppered her with questions about the score, the referees, when it was over (because he was done). The little chatterbox stole my heart. Just like LA does. Every. Single. Time.

Brekke Fletcher traveled to Los Angeles on the invitation of Discover Los Angeles . Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.