Glimpse the Himalayas in misty Mukteshwar

By a magical quirk of geography, silent, forested Mukteshwar is blessed with some of the most spectacular views of the Himalayan ranges that can be seen from Kumaon’shighpoints. The snow peaks, enchanting deodar forests, and cottages with stone walls and chimneys give Mukteshwar a unique identity.

A forest-lined road, post office, a bank branch, and a few restaurants and grocery shops add respectability to its claim of being a town.

Mukteshwar Temple

Thousands of temple bells of all sizes hang around the shrine, reflecting sunlight and panoramic views, as they preside over Mukteshwar’s highest point. They represent offerings of prayer or gratitude to Shiva, the Lord who sets you free (mukt), represented here by a marble linga. The tiny temple, with much new brick and concrete in evidence, nevertheless seems a perfect location for the divine yogi, especially in peaceful spring or autumnal off-season months.

Chauthi Ki Jaali

Here is high drama, literally. An easy 20-minute walk from Mukteshwar Temple, sheer cliffs and rock faces zoom up for about 610m at the edge of a valley and jut out at surreal angles, inviting sunset photos and an itch to try some gentle rappelling. Rock climbing (about 11m) and rappelling are options, as well as a small flying fox and ‘commando climb’; softer options like archery can be tried in season. Informally organised by local operators, these are available on booking from autumn to spring.

Walks

British-era bridle paths meander through Mukteshwar’s richly forested slopes going all the way down to Bhimtal and Kathgodam. There are also several local trails connecting the hamlets. Deodar, oak, rhododendron, pine, kafal, and tilonj will keep you company.

Mukteshwar Temple - Sargakhet: If your hotel is in popular Sargakhet, do the Mukteshwar Temple–Sargakhet (6km) forest walk, starting from near the temple. It’s an easy downhill trail, generous with deodars and oaks. It will take about three hours, and a guide near the temple will go along for a fee. A simpler, guide-free option is to just traipse down the main road to Sargakhet, experiencing the forests and fantastic views of Ramgarh and Almora valleys.

Mukteshwar Temple–Sitla: A route behind the temple goes downhill, once again, to Sitla. This is an easy 3km and can be done in an hour. Check with the resort Sitla Estate you can drop by for a cuppa and hike up again.

Mukteshwar - Almora: A serious hiking option is the Mukteshwar-Almora one-day bridle path trek. Guides from adventure agencies at Chauthi ki Jaali, or arranged via your hotel, can be arranged; they’ll cook Maggi on the way too. Arrange to drive back.

Bhatelia–Sargakhet: If you are staying in a hotel in either of these Mukteshwar ‘suburbs’, this is another long and lovely bridle path option, with the added advantage that you can start or end with satisfying pakodas and local food at Sargakhet’s Madhuvan Cottage and Restaurant, now a part of Mukteshwar’s tourist lore.

PWD Bungalow

A lesson in geography is to be had at the charming old PWD bungalow, a few minutes’ walk behind the temple. The shining peaks of Chaukhamba, Neel Kanth, Trishul, Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot, Panchachuli, Annapurna, and more in a way spread out, occupying your field of vision. The bungalow is situated such that no tree obstructs your view. You do need permission from the caretakers before you enter these grounds, where Jim Corbett once stayed.