The best things to do in France with kids

It’s a hot May day in Nîmes, and a gladiator in the ring of Les Arènes winks at my kids. Sitting around us are some 12,000 spectators, but we’re not here to watch a rugby or football match. Instead, we’re cheering for chariots under the watchful eye of a toga-clad emperor at the annual Journées romaines de Nîmes (Roman Days of Nîmes), a rip-roaring reenactment that is the perfect slice of festival fun if you're traveling to France with kids.

Over the years, traveling to France has not only delighted my daughters, it has also served as a crash course in European history. We’ve admired prehistoric cave paintings at Lascaux IV and hurled water balloons from medieval catapults. We've watched a falconry show at Provins, dressed up in Renaissance garb in châteaux in the Loire Valley, and crawled through WWII bunkers on the coast of Normandy – and that’s just the start.

There have been beach breaks and alpine hikes and urban escapades, too. Through it all, I've found that family adventures in France have enriched my own travels with a sense of novelty, discovery and awe. If you're thinking of visiting en famille, here are the best things to do with kids in France.

Is France good for kids?

Combining crowd-pleasing sights, off-grid adventures and plenty of offbeat thrills, France is an easy sell for family travel. From stunning beaches to gleaming ski slopes, and from giant marionette parades to the Fête de la Musique, the country that came up with the concept of joie de vivre is a joy for children.

Just look at the culinary ritual of le goûter – the afternoon snack enjoyed by kids when they get out of school in the afternoon. It's part of the cultural fabric, a Proustian moment even channeled by pastry chefs on chic restaurant menus.

Another perk of family travel in France is just how well things are set up for children. The tourism infrastructure is excellent; even small villages in the countryside have dedicated tourist offices with children’s activities such as themed jeux de piste (treasure hunts).

Likewise, French museums set the standard for kid-centered games, activities and workshops. Many museums offer free admission for kids, or a forfait tribu (special family rate) for families, covering two adults and two children.

When it comes to navigating cities, strollers (with an umbrella or cover for hot or damp weather) are practical for sidewalks and naps – but it's best to bring a baby carrier to avoid the headaches of cobblestone streets, not to mention the ubiquitous steps and stairways on the Paris metro. Note that older buildings may not have elevators; choose a lower floor if you are traveling with a stroller. When you need to pause and recharge, parks and playgrounds are as prolific as pâtisseries (pastry shops).

In keeping with the French commitment to family time, kids are welcomed, not frowned upon, at restaurants. French children eat multi-course meals with their parents at restaurants from a young age. That said, we’d only recommend bringing your enfants sages (well-behaved children) to a Michelin-starred establishment if they won't disturb other diners.

Searching for a family-friendly spot? All-day brasseries and casual crêperies are good options. There's often a good-value kids’ menu, inclusive of drinks and desserts. And high chairs (chaises hautes) are easy to find, though there's no harm in bringing your own portable toddler seat for younger kids.

If you’ve rented a self-catering holiday home and need to stock up on food and nappies, keep in mind that supermarkets in the countryside often close on Sundays, and sometimes also for a few hours after lunch during the week.

One other important caveat – during the French school holidays in the summer, at Easter, at Toussaint in November, and at Christmas, families travel in huge numbers. You can expect the sights to be crowded and prices to rise significantly.

Where are the best places to go in France with kids?

From the tidal marvels of the Baie de Somme to the big-wave surf of the Basque Country, the French coast offers a dizzying array of delights. For a family beach break, the sandy shores of the Atlantic Coast call out like a beacon, as do Brittany’s secluded coves.

The Côte d'Azur may be best known for unabashed luxury and next-level hedonism (picture bronzed revelers on Plage de Pampelonne in St-Tropez). However, even on this glam stretch of coast, you can find your own piece of family-friendly paradise; my kids vote for the port town of Menton.

Culture-packed Paris is a feast for travelers of all ages; it's packed with attractions for families, if you don't mind a crowd, though it pays to book ahead for sights such as the Eiffel Tower. Where else can you make a date with Monet at the Louvre in the morning, climb a medieval tower in the afternoon, followed by a Seine river cruise (or swim!) and a cone of chocolate mousse from Chocolat Chapon? And the cerise sur le gâteau, or cherry on the cake? Jumping on a trampoline surrounded by palm trees in the Jardin des Tuileries.

Another kid-approved playground is the Dordogne Valley, where you can combine river canoeing with excursions to see prehistoric cave art, fairytale castles and fortified villages. Then there’s the Loire Valley, where you can relive the glory days of the French monarchy in extravagant châteaux. Both are ideal choices for a first family trip to France.

For outdoor adventure, make a break for the French Alps. Summertime thrills include wildlife spotting, hiking and rafting, while the winter season lures families to the ski slopes in droves. Kids aged 3 and older are welcome at dedicated jardins de neige (snow gardens) across the region; Avoriaz near Chamonix scores highly for families.

Best things to do in France with babies and toddlers

With babes-in-arms and toddlers aged 3 or under, focus on smaller, less-crowded destinations where you can see the sights without having long journeys to and from the hotel.

Stay on a car-free island

Is there anything better than frolicking on an idyllic French beach? What about enjoying those frolics on a car-free island, where you don't have to worry about chasing your toddler away from traffic? Top recommendations include Île de Ré off the Atlantic coast, Île de Batz and Île-de-Bréhat in Brittany, and Île de Porquerolles near Hyères. All of these islands are great for sensitive kids who prefer nature and quiet surroundings.

And my personal pick? Île d'Aix, a small 129-hectare island off the west coast near Rochefort. Only accessible by boat, it's dotted with old naval installations and pretty beaches, and you can view the 19th-century maritime fortress of Fort Boyard from the western shore.

Take a deep dive at a French museum

France has a museum for every hobby and taste, and most major institutions give new parents priority access that allows you to cut the queue if you’ve got a baby in tow. For older kids, many museums organize ateliers (workshops) on Wednesday afternoons and at weekends.

Along with audio guides, monuments such as the Conciergerie in Paris offer what they call "HistoPads" – digital tablets with headphones that allow kids to discover the past using 3D displays and virtual reality, taking the museum experience into the next century.

Best things to do in France with young kids

With kids aged 4 to 10 years, there are lots of fabulous theme parks and some wacky accommodation options, but be ready for queues at the parks and other top family sights during the tourist season and the French school holidays.

See the mechanical marvels of Les Machines

Run by a street-theater troupe in Nantes, this whimsical, steampunk-style project feels like something straight out of a Jules Verne novel. At Les Machines de l'Île, set on the island at the heart of Nantes, the highlight is a giant mechanical elephant made from wood and steel, which carries 49 passengers through the streets while spraying water out of its trunk.

The organization's Nantes headquarters is a wonderland for kids, complete with a multi-tiered carousel where you can ride fantastical sea creatures. Les Machines has expanded to a branch in Toulouse – beware the Minotaur with steam pouring out of its nostrils – and a giant fire-spitting dragon in Calais.

Hit France's best theme parks

France doesn't just have Disneyland Paris, but a bonanza of theme parks. Close to Poitiers, Futuroscope makes learning fun with high-tech cinematic experiences and space-age attractions. At Plailly, to the north of Paris, Parc Astérix celebrates the characters from the best-selling comic books, while Vulcania explores Auvergne's extinct volcanoes.

In the Vendée, the popular Puy du Fou brings history to life with dramatic spectacles starring costumed characters. Attractions like Cité de l’Espace in Toulouse, Aquarium La Rochelle and Nausicaá in Boulogne-sur-mer are also firm family favorites.

Nest in the trees (or in a lighthouse)

You can take your trip up a notch by checking into some wild and wacky accommodations dotted around France. You could sleep in a lighthouse-keeper's house on the L'île Vierge, check into a treehouse at Loire Valley Lodges, or go royal with a room at the Chateau de Rivau.

For pure drama, you could always bunk down in a converted snow groomer vehicle on the high-altitude pistes of La Plagne (stunning Mont Blanc view included), or sleep among the wild animals in a safari lodge at the Zoo de La Flèche.

Best things to do in France with teenagers and tweens

With kids aged 10 and over, and hard-to-please teenagers, consider an active break or some educational activities.

Pursue a passion

Why not invite your teen to be part of the travel decision-making process and choose an activity based on their interests? Does your kid adore food? Sign up for a cooking class or food tour in cities such as Paris, Lyon and Aix-en-Provence.

Do they love music? Get tickets to a summer festival such as We Love Green, Rock en Seine, or Jazz à Juan. Are they crazy about movies? Consider a film festival – it doesn't have to be the red carpet of Cannes. Are they in love with dance? Catch a performance at the Palais Garnier, Philharmonie de Paris, or Centquatre.

Then there's nature. My family trips have often morphed into bird-watching expeditions – we've spotted flamingos in the Camargue and spoonbills in the Parc du Marquenterre. Seeing big birds of prey in the Pyrenees is another top birding thrill.

Take in the terrain on two wheels

Whether you cycle with Tour de France stamina or prefer a leisurely pedal, biking in France is a fun way to cover a lot of ground while appreciating the scenery. The country is packed with cycling routes, so you can choose your own adventure, whether that's a half-day outing through the vineyards or a week-long expedition.

Need some inspiration? The 600km Vélo Francette connects Ouistreham in Normandy to the Atlantic Coast, while the ViaRhôna follows the Rhône River from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean. If that all seems like a bit too much effort, consider hiring e-bikes for the whole family – you can cycle long distances with much less effort, and they're widely available in France.

Look for outdoor thrills and spills

Even if your teen grumbles about ditching their devices, they’ll soon be distracted by the wonders of nature in France. Spot a menagerie of marmots on a hike in the Parc National de la Vanoise. Commune with monkeys in the Vallée des Singes south of Poitiers. Or look for dolphins on a boat trip to Île Sainte-Marguerite off the coast of Cannes, where the unfortunate man in the iron mask was imprisoned.

Getting out into nature can be as active (or relaxing) as you choose. For an easygoing option, why not rent an electric boat (no captain’s license required) on the Bassin de la Villette in Paris? Or you could get your adrenaline pumping on a rafting trip along the Giffre River, between Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval and Samoëns in the Alps.

Planning tips

While France is a low-stress destination for families, here are a few tips for an even smoother trip.

• With children in tow, skip the autoroute tolls and bouchons (traffic jams) and take the train instead. Children under 4 travel for free on the efficient French rail network. Parents who travel frequently (and are between 27 and 59 years old) should consider the Carte Avantage Adulte for 30% discounts on long-distance train journeys in France and around Europe, and 60% for up to three accompanying children (4–11 years).

• In Paris, children under four travel for free on the RATP public transportation system and then get half-price fares until they are 10 years old.

• To avoid disappointment and queues, always double-check opening hours for restaurants, museums and attractions, and make reservations in advance.

• Plan days out around rest stops in parks (most have play areas) and restaurants offering a menu enfant (kids' menu). Some attractions have timed entry slots, which also requires some forward planning.

• Note that many amusement park rides have height and age restrictions – check ahead so younger kids aren't disappointed if they miss out on riding their dream coaster.

• Embark on a treasure hunt around the French capital courtesy of the free Paris Region Adventures app. Choose your own themed adventure, then find the mystery objects and identify the historical characters for the chance to win a prize.