Brittany

The enthralling mast-filled port town of St-Malo is a dramatic sight. With one of the world's greatest tidal ranges, brewing storms under blackened skies see waves lash the top of the ramparts ringing its beautiful walled city. Hours later, the blue sky merges with the deep cobalt sea as the tide recedes, exposing broad beaches and creating land bridges to granite outcrop islands.

Construction of the walled city's fortifications began in the 12th century. The town became a key port during the 17th and 18th centuries as a base for both merchant ships and government-sanctioned privateers (pirates, basically) against the constant threat of the English. These days, English arrivals are tourists, for whom St-Malo, a short ferry hop from the Channel Islands, is a summer haven.

The pretty fishing port of St-Servan sits 2km south of the walled city and many sights are located there.

Two perplexing questions arise from the Brittany's neolithic menhirs, dolmens, cromlechs, tumuli and cairns. Just how did the original constructors hew, then haul, these blocks (the heaviest weighs 300 tonnes), millennia before the wheel and the mechanical engine reached Brittany? And why?

Theories and hypotheses abound, but common consensus is that they served some kind of sacred purpose – a spiritual impulse that has motivated so much monument-building by humankind.

Just north of Carnac is a vast array of monoliths arranged in several distinct alignments, all visible from the road, though fenced for controlled admission. There are also several spectacular sites around the Golfe du Morbihan, including Cairn de Gavrinis, Locmariaquer Megaliths and Cairn de Petit Mont.

The main information point for the Carnac alignments is the Maison des Mégalithes, which explores the history of the site and has a rooftop viewpoint overlooking the alignements. Due to severe erosion, the sites are fenced off to allow the vegetation to regenerate, and certain areas are accessible only by guided tour. The Maison can organise one-hour guided visit, several times daily in French and weekly in English during the summer. (Call to confirm times.) From March to October, selected parts are open for visitors to wander freely – ask the Maison for maps.

The best way to appreciate the stones' sheer numbers is to walk or cycle between the Ménec and Kerlescan groups, with menhirs almost continuously in view. Between June and September, seven buses a day run between the two sites, as well as Carnac-Ville and Carnac-Plage. The Carnac-Ville tourist office has an excellent map of all the nearby sites.

On the other side of the road from the Maison des Mégalithes, the largest menhir field – with 1099 stones – is the Alignements du Ménec, 1km north of Carnac-Ville. From here, the D196 heads northeast for about 1.5km to the equally impressive Alignements de Kermario (parts of which are open year-round). Climb the stone Moulin de Kermaux midway along the site to view the alignment from above.

The massive burial mound of a neolithic chieftain dating from 3800 BC, the astonishing Tumulus de Kercado lies just east of Kermario and 500m to the south of the D196; look for the signs. Deposit your fee (€1) in an honour box at the entry hut that you walk through to reach the site. You can walk through the passageway (there's a light switch) and stand up within the chamber at the heart of the tumulus. About 300m east of the Kercado turnoff along the D196 lies the parking area for the Géant du Manio. There's a parking area just off the road next to an equestrian centre, then a 15-minute walk brings you to vast rock amid the pines, the highest menhir in the complex. Just before you reach it, you will see the rectangular arrangement of stones known as the Quadrilatère du Manio.

The easternmost of the major groups is the Alignements de Kerlescan, a smaller grouping also accessible in winter.

Tumulus St-Michel, 400m northeast of the Carnac-Ville tourist office, and accessed off the D781 at the end of rue du Tumulus, is a gigantic burial mound with a church on top. It dates back to at least 5000 BC and offers sweeping views (exterior access only).

Be sure to visit the Musée de Préhistoire in Carnac-Ville to see the incredible neolithic artefacts found throughout the region.

Stretching westwards into the Atlantic, the anchor-shaped Presqu’île de Crozon (or Crozon Peninsula) is one of the most scenic spots in Brittany. In previous centuries, this multifingered spit of land was a key strategic outpost; crumbling forts and ruined gun batteries can still be seen on many headlands, but these days it's the tucked-away coves, secluded and inviting beaches, thrilling panoramas, charming B&Bs and clifftop trails that attract thousands of visitors in summer.

Belle Île (in full, Belle-Île-en-Mer, 'beautiful island in the sea') does indeed live up to its name: rugged cliffs and rock stacks line the island's west coast while picturesque pastel ports nestle along the eastern side. For sunbathers and outdoorsy types, there is no shortage of lovely beaches and activities.

Accessed by ferries from Quiberon, the island sees its modest population swell tenfold in summer. But as it's Brittany's largest offshore island (at 20km by 9km), there's room to escape the crowds.

Belle Île has two main settlements: the main port of Le Palais is on the east side of the island, while smaller (and even more charming) Sauzon is in the northeast.

Overlooking the Golfe du Morbihan, Vannes is one of the unmissable towns of Brittany. Spectacular fortifications encircle Vannes' meandering alleys and cobbled squares, and lead down to a sparkling marina lined with cafes and townhouses. The city still preserves much of its medieval atmosphere, though it's not a museum piece but a vibrant place with a lively bar and restaurant scene year-round. Vannes is also an excellent base for exploring the glittering island-studded Golfe du Morbihan and the mesmerising neolithic sites in the vicinity.

The Roscoff area may be light on beaches, but don't despair; you can bounce over the waves to the fabulous offshore island of Île de Batz (www.iledebatz.com) and discover brilliant sand beaches (without the crowds).

A half-day is all you need to walk around this tiny speck of paradise (no cars allowed) but we suggest that you spend a night on the island to soak up its divine atmosphere.

Quiberon (Kiberen in Breton) sits right at the southern tip of a thin, 14km-long peninsula, called the Presqu'île de Quiberon, flanked on the western side by the rocky, sublime and wave-lashed Côte Sauvage (Wild Coast). A thin ribbon of isthmus – l'isthme de Penthièvre – links the peninsula to the mainland. The setting is superb, with a heady mix of lovely rock-strewn beaches and dramatic, rugged inlets; the town of Quiberon is also pleasant, but finding a parking spot in the high season can be trying. Even so, it's wildly popular in summer and is also the departure point for ferries to Belle Île. For outdoorsy types, there are plenty of water sports available, from diving and snorkelling to sea kayaking, surfing and char à voile (sand yachting). The highlight is, however, driving down the Route Côtière (D186A) along the Côte Sauvage, stopping off at the various beaches.

Guarded by its three round towers and overlooking the canal, the extraordinary town château is an formidable sight that remains the home of the Rohan family today. Beyond the entrance gate, the castle fans out into tree-filled grounds and a central courtyard, which affords a great view of the castle's Flamboyant Gothic façade. The château is filled with treasures, including a medieval-style dining room, a 3000-tome library and a grand salon filled with Sèvres porcelain, Gobelins carpets and an astronomical clock.

One of the most authentic seafood experiences you'll ever have awaits you in Cancale. Local fishers sell their catch directly from stalls clustered by the Pointe des Crolles lighthouse. Point to the ones you want, and they'll be shucked, dashed with lemon and served before your eyes, and voilà, one perfect lunch. Oysters are numbered according to size and quality.

Set high above the fast-flowing Rance River, the gorgeous narrow – and sometimes plunging – cobblestone streets lined with crooked, creaking half-timbered houses of Dinan's old town are straight out of the Middle Ages. This guarantees a tourist bonanza in the warmer months, of course, but choose anything slightly off-season and you may find the place deserted. Even when it's busy, by around 6pm, someone seemingly waves a magic wand and most of the crowds vanish and a sense of calm settles once more over the charming town.