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Brittany
Brittany is for explorers. Its wild, dramatic coastline, medieval towns and thick forests make an excursion here well worth the detour off the beaten track. This is a land of prehistoric mysticism, proud tradition and culinary wealth, where fiercely independent locals celebrate Breton culture, and Paris feels a long way away indeed.
The entire region (Breizh in Breton) has a wonderfully undiscovered feel once you go beyond world-famous sights such as stunning St-Malo, regal Dinard and charming Dinan. Unexpected gems – including the little-known towns of Roscoff, Quimper and Vannes, the megaliths of Carnac, the rugged coastlines of Finistère, the Presqu'Île de Crozon and the Morbihan Coast – reveal there's far more to Brittany than delicious crêpes and homemade cider. Its much-loved islands are also big draws – don't miss the stars: dramatic Île d'Ouessant and the aptly named Belle Île. And wherever you go, keep an eye out for korrigans (fairies or spirits).
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Brittany.
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Carnac Alignments
Predating Stonehenge by around 100 years, the Carnac (Garnag in Breton) area is the world's greatest concentration of megalithic sites, with no fewer than 3000 of these upright stones, erected between 5000 and 3500 BC. One km north of Carnac-Ville a vast array of monoliths form several distinct alignments, all visible from the road, though fenced for controlled admission. The best way to appreciate the stones' sheer numbers is to walk or bike between the Ménec and Kerlescan groups. Between June and September seven buses a day run between the two sites, as well as Carnac-Ville and Carnac-Plage. They constitute an astonishing sight, even if you are not an archaeologist, and even though their purpose remains obscure, the area hums with mystery. Near the stones, the Maison des Mégalithes explores the history of the site and offers guided visits. Due to severe erosion of the flora, the sites are fenced off to allow the vegetation to regenerate, and certain areas are accessible only by guided tour. However, from October to March you can wander freely through parts – the Maison des Mégalithes has maps of what's currently open. Opposite the Maison des Mégalithes, stand the Alignements du Ménec. The road along here is called the Route des Alignements, indeed the best way of getting here and exploring the region is by car. From here, the D196 heads northeast for about 1.5km to the equally impressive Alignements de Kermario. Climb the stone observation tower – the Moulin de Kermaux (an old mill) – midway along the site to see the alignment from above. The fascinating Tumulus de Kercado – which you can enter and explore - lies just east of Kermario and 500m to the south of the D196. About 300m east of the Kercado turnoff along the D196, lies the parking area for the Géant du Manio, the tallest menhir in the area. Further east, you can find the Alignements de Kerlescan, a smaller grouping. In Carnac-Ville, you can climb up the huge Tumulus St-Michel for terrific views over the countryside.
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Château de Josselin
Guarded by its three round towers and overlooking the canal, the extraordinary town château is an formidable sight that remains the home of the Rohan family today. Beyond the entrance gate, the castle fans out into tree-filled grounds and a central courtyard, which affords a great view of the castle's Flamboyant Gothic façade. The château is filled with treasures, including a medieval-style dining room, a 3000-tome library and a grand salon filled with Sèvres porcelain, Gobelins carpets and an astronomical clock. The interior can only be visited by guided tour: there is one English-language tour per day in July and August; otherwise you can ask for a leaflet in English. A combination ticket for the Musée de Poupées and the château costs €14.80/8.80.
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Ville Close (Walled City)
This special walled town, fortified in the 14th century and modified by the architect Vauban two centuries later, sits on a small island linked to place Jean Jaurès by a stone footbridge. Just past the citadel's clock tower and main gate, look out for the 18th-century Tour du Gouverneur, which is one of the access points for strolling the ramparts . As you continue, rue Vauban leads to place St-Guénolé and the former church – and later hospice – of the same name. On the way you will pass stone houses converted into shops, crêperies, ice-cream stalls and galleries. Indeed, the best way to explore the island is to wander at will. The eastern side of the island has a small hilly park, and there's a passenger ferry (€1) that runs across the inlet to the opposite quay at place Duquesne. The Ville Close is thronged in summer and on weekends.
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Locmariaquer Megaliths
This unusual neolithic site on the eastern edge of the village of Locmariaquer (13km south of Auray) sits in an area rich in dolmens. This one features three distinct forms. A giant broken menhir (20m long and the tallest in Western Europe) was made from a type of granite that indicates it was transported (it is not understood how) several kilometres. The Table des Marchand dolmen boasts an incredible geometric carving in its interior, while an enormous tumulus covers multiple graves. The site was once used as a quarry and a car park, but has since been reconstructed in spectacular style. There is no public transport.
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Cairn of Barnenez
This enormous ancient series of hilltop tombs is set spectacularly overlooking the Bay of Morlaix, on the edge of the modern-day village of Plouezoc'h, 10km north of Morlaix. Built between 4500 and 3900 BC, the cairn measures 75m and comprises two sets of tombs, built in successive eras but attached to each other. You can walk through the centre of the cairn, where it was once, amazingly, used as a source of stones in the 1950s. The cairn today remains an imposing and magnificent sight. A joint ticket with the Château du Taureau gets you a reduced fee for both.
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Église St-Ronan
At the core of Locronan, this beautiful and very sacred church dates from the 15th century. It contains the tomb of St Ronan, as well as a green wooden pulpit that is a marvel to behold, carved and painted with scenes from the saint's life in Brittany. Ronan was an ascetic pilgrim from Ireland who established a hermitage in the woods here, around which the village eventually formed. Also look out for the lovely statue of St Christophe (the patron saint of travellers), carrying the young Jesus on his shoulders.
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Pointe de Pen-Hir
Three kilometres southwest of Camaret, this spectacular and sublime headland is bounded by steep, sheer sea cliffs. On a peninsula known for its breathtaking scenery, this might be the most impressive lookout of them all. The series of offshore rock stacks are known as Tas de Pois. There are also two WWII memorials, and just inland 80 neolithic menhirs comprise the Alignements de Lagatjar. There are plenty of short walks in the area, as well as a handful of small cove beaches.
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Ramparts
Vannes' old town is surrounded by imposing ramparts and gates, which are in turn lined by a moat and, on the eastern edge, simply spectacular flower-filled gardens. Tucked away behind rue des Vierges, stairs lead to the accessible section of the ramparts from which you can see the black-roofed Vieux Lavoirs (Old Laundry Houses) along the water. Or walk rue Francis Decker, on the wall's eastern exterior, to take it all in.
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Cairn de Gavrinis
One of the most special neolithic ruins along the Morbihan coast, this giant cairn is out on the island of the same name. Dating from 4000 BC and measuring more than 50m in diameter, the beautifully situated tomb is well known for its profusion of intricate engravings. You access the site on a 15-minute boat trip from the harbour at Larmor-Baden (14km southeast of Auray), and it's important to reserve tickets in advance.