Auvergne

Puy de Dôme (1465m) is the best-known of the Auvergne's dormant volcanoes. Part of the Unesco-listed Chaîne des Puys, a 40km string of lava domes now carpeted in green, Puy de Dôme is the focal point for hikes, scenic train rides and paragliding. Nearby, a volcano-themed amusement park and excavated volcanic sight amp up the geological wonder.

A relative youngster (in geological terms, at least) at 10,000 years old, Puy de Dôme has long acted as a spiritual lightning rod. The remains of a Gallo-Roman temple, rediscovered in 1873, stand on the summit (now crowned with a TV antenna). Whether you visit in sunshine or midwinter, when the hills are kissed by snow, you are guaranteed one of France’s prettiest panoramas.

One of the prettiest stretches of the Allier River, which gushes through central France for 410km, is south of Clermont-Ferrand. Here the water teems with salmon and tumbles prettily between sharp cliffs and wild tangles of scrub, drawing white-water enthusiasts and walkers to the languid villages on its banks. With campgrounds and kid-friendly activities galore, the Gorges de l'Allier makes a refreshing region to explore en famille.

Le Puy's oldest chapel, first established in the 10th century, and rebuilt several times since, teeters atop an 85m-high volcanic plug, reached by climbing 268 craggy stairs. Stepping through its polychrome doorway into the cave-like interior is a near-mystical experience – the chapel follows the natural contours of the rock, and the unusual carvings and 12th-century frescoes create an otherworldly atmosphere.

The Auvergne's most elegant winter-sports base has a glint of 19th-century glamour among its fondue restaurants and gear-hire shops. Nestled in a narrow valley 44km southwest of Clermont-Ferrand, and 4km north of Puy de Sancy (1886m), the town originally rose to prominence as a spa resort. Its bedomed Thermes (bathhouses) continue to draw curistes, who partake of the reputedly healing mountain waters.

Hiking trails, some reached by nerve-jangling funicular and cable-car rides, thread the surrounding mountains. Winter snow conditions can be hit or miss, but for a mix of fresh air and cultural enrichment, you could do worse than joining the loyal throng of skiers who come here.

Split across two buildings, this museum gives an entertaining account of cutlery-making history. In number 23, a kid-friendly sound-and-light show evokes the dazzling, deafening conditions of a medieval workshop. Continue down the street to number 58 to see sparks fly in a knife-making demonstration on centuries-old equipment. Demos are in French only, but written information is available in other languages on request. In summer, pair a trip to the museum with visiting open-air Vallée des Rouets, 4km northeast of Thiers.

Cradled in a bend in the Allier River, water has long defined the regal spa town of Vichy. During its belle-époque heyday, visitors flocked to sip its reputedly healing waters and plunge into thermal springs. Vichy has kept its reputation as a health retreat, helped along by the internationally known cosmetic brand named for the town, which prides itself on using local mineral water in its products.

Landscaped gardens that date to the 18th and 19th centuries, and art-deco buildings such as the opera and Église St-Blaise enhance the town’s feeling of time-worn glamour. A seam of confectionery shops grew around the industry for the town’s signature sweetie, the pastille de Vichy. So in the midst of a wellness capital, there is plenty of opportunity to snack between meals and double up on desserts – just what the doctor ordered.

Among countless dairy delights produced in the Auvergne’s fragrant pastures are five Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP) cheeses. From mild to intense, these are: semi-hard, cheddar-like Cantal and nutty Salers; rich, semi-soft St-Nectaire; smooth blue cheese Fourme d'Ambert; and powerful Bleu d'Auvergne.

The Routes des Fromages (www.fromages-aop-auvergne.com) plot out almost 40 regional cheese producers. You can tramp across fields to buy wedges of cheese at farmhouse dairies, bring your kids to watch early-morning milkings, or join a tasting tour. The Auvergne’s cheese trails are best explored during the summer, when many producers open their doors to tourists. The website has maps, complete with contact details for all dairies. The most classic, tourist-friendly cheese experiences are in Ambert and St-Nectaire.

The Pays d’Issoire is arguably the most colourful strip of the Auvergne, nestled between the green expanses of two regional natural parks. There's an almost Mediterranean feel to the region's coral-roofed villages and vine-cloaked meadows.

At its heart is main town Issoire, home to the Auvergne’s most flamboyantly decorated Romanesque church. Equally dazzling is the Vallée des Saints, a geological marvel of ochre-and-red fairy chimneys. Fortified villages such as Montpeyroux and Usson are worthwhile detours as much for their medieval ramparts as their 360-degree views across rolling hills.

The raison d'être of La Chaise-Dieu (literally 'the seat of God') is its monumental Église Abbatiale de St-Robert. This 14th-century abbey-church deserves a visit, and its beautifully restored Gothic arches and medieval artwork are likely to be the high point of any church-hopping itinerary through Parc Naturel Régional Livradois-Forez.

Aside from its main attraction, La Chaise-Dieu, 38km northwest of Le Puy-en-Velay, has little detain you other than some charming inns in surrounding villages.