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Auvergne

Explosive history slumbers underground in the Auvergne. This land-locked region was scorched by ancient volcanoes, which left behind chains of cinder cones and mirror lakes, overlooked by the razor peaks of the Massif Central mountain range.

Two great green lungs of protected land define the Auvergne: westerly, mountainous Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne, and to its east Parc Naturel Régional Livradois-Forez, its picturesque villages lost amid woodlands and farms. Cultural splendour is strung in between: retro-glamorous Vichy, colourful Pays d'Issoire, and dreamy villages along the Allier River. East of here, petrified lava plumes tower over pilgrimage town Le Puy-en-Velay, surely one of the most dramatic skylines in France.

After hikes to Romanesque churches (or ice-fishing, or cross-country skiing...) the Auvergne's treasured cuisine tastes all the better. Mirroring the region's rough charisma, meals are hearty and utterly free of pretension – you won't be able to resist digging in.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Auvergne.

Church
Église Abbatiale de St-Robert
For Pope Clement VI, a humble tomb simply wouldn't do. The pope commissioned a palatial church to shelter his final resting place and the resulting Église Abbatiale, completed in 1352, is an imposing sight: two square towers crown its restrained Gothic façade, behind which a cavernous interior, framed by 18m-high rib vaults, harbours treasures including the massive 17th-century organ (a focal point of the town's Sacred Music Festival) and Clement VI's marble tomb. Don't miss the celebrated Danse Macabre fresco.
Church
Chapelle St-Michel d'Aiguilhe
Le Puy's oldest chapel, first established in the 10th century, and rebuilt several times since, teeters atop an 85m-high volcanic plug, reached by climbing 268 craggy stairs. Stepping through its polychrome doorway into the cave-like interior is a near-mystical experience – the chapel follows the natural contours of the rock, and the unusual carvings and 12th-century frescoes create an otherworldly atmosphere.
Museum
Musée de la Coutellerie
Split across two buildings, this museum gives an entertaining account of cutlery-making history. In number 23, a kid-friendly sound-and-light show evokes the dazzling, deafening conditions of a medieval workshop. Continue down the street to number 58 to see sparks fly in a knife-making demonstration on centuries-old equipment. Demos are in French only, but written information is available in other languages on request. In summer, pair a trip to the museum with visiting open-air Vallée des Rouets, 4km northeast of Thiers.
Cathedral
Cathédrale Notre Dame
Clermont-Ferrand’s skyline broods with volcanic stone, but its most impressive edifice is Cathédrale Notre-Dame, whose 108m twin spires pierce the sky like blackened spears. Its façade, with snarling gargoyles and Gothic tracery, was constructed between the 13th and 19th centuries. Within, lift your gaze to the 1527 jacquemart clock, with the faun-like god Mars and Time beating out the hours, and intricate rose windows, restored in the early 20th century. In summer, climb Tour de la Bayette for 360-degree views.
Museum
Lieu de Mémoire
Through evocative displays and audiovisual presentations, this museum paints a vivid picture of an extraordinarily resilient wartime community. Residents of Le Chambon-sur-Lignon played a courageous role during WWII, sheltering thousands of refugees, including hundreds of Jewish children, from deportation by the Nazis. Supplemented by bilingual French and English information panels, the museum uses light, sound and sculpture to tell the story of residents' non-violent resistance.
Cathedral
Cathédrale Notre Dame
A chequerboard of grey and white stone perched on a volcanic stone crag, Le Puy's cathedral is the monumental starting point for pilgrims embarking on the French Way of St James route. An exquisite blend of architectural styles, the cathedral's entryway is framed by Romanesque arches. Inside are Roman-era frescoes, (some 5.5m high), Baroque statues, an organ dating to 1689, and one of the Auvergne’s most famous Vierges noires (black Madonnas).
Volcano
Volcan de Lemptégy
Feel the Auvergne's smouldering terrain beneath your feet at this mined volcanic site, across the main road from amusement park Vulcania. In summer, at weekends and during school holidays, a motorised 'train' chugs for 3km along the scorched scarlet soil, weaving past boulders flung out of the belly of this ancient volcano. Year-round, the site is visitable on guided walks. Lemptégy's geological forces are further explained through a short 'dynamic 3D' film (spoiler: expect bumps and jolts). Allow 2¾ hours.
Museum
L'Aventure Michelin
Yes, it’s a temple dedicated to the Auvergne’s world-famous tyre brand, but the 'Michelin Adventure' is a crowd-pleasing attraction. Gallery spaces are decked out like 19th-century streets to evoke the early days of the Michelin brothers, whose designs would revolutionise transport worldwide. Some displays are somewhat niche (want to compare a 1919 cord tyre with the 1923 model?) but the museum answers interesting questions about map-making and car manufacture in colourful, interactive ways. Written explanations are in French and English.
Village
Usson
Designed as an impregnable citadel, the village of Usson roosts atop a volcanic plume, 8km east of Issoire. The daughter of Henry II and Catherine de Médici, Marguerite de Valois (known as 'la reine Margot'), was imprisoned here by her brother, but after her release she remained in Usson to restore its castle and assemble a court of advisers. The fortified stone-and-slate village still feels frozen in time, and enjoys a peerless panorama of the Chaîne des Puys.