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French Alps & the Jura Mountains

High up in the French Alps, it's enthralling to imagine the forces that shaped these colossal peaks. The African and Eurasian tectonic plates collided some 35 million years ago, forcing the land skyward into a 1000km chain of saw-edged mountains.

Rumbling across seven European countries, the Alps reach their maximum height in France, at Mont Blanc (4810m). Buckling northwest along the Swiss border are the less mighty Jura Mountains, where life unfolds along slower rhythms: winemaking, cross-country skiing and tinkling cow bells.

Routes into the Alps’ otherworldly realms are many: aboard cable cars that fly to knee-trembling heights, or in the company of mountain guides who set out into wintry oblivion. Europe's biggest, and arguably most prestigious, ski resorts are here, melting into meadow-draped hiking country each summer. Winter or summer, this forbidding terrain commands respect: the French Alps’ mirror lakes, ice-cold rivers and crevasse-scarred glaciers form one of Europe’s true epics.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout French Alps & the Jura Mountains.

Viewpoint
Aiguille du Midi
The great rocky fang of the Aiguille du Midi (3842m), rising from the Mont Blanc massif, is one of Chamonix’ most distinctive features. The 360-degree views of the French, Swiss and Italian Alps from the summit are (quite literally) breathtaking. Year-round, you can float via cable car from Chamonix to the Aiguille du Midi on the vertiginous Téléphérique de l’Aiguille du Midi. Dress warmly: even in summer, temperatures at the top rarely rise above -10°C (in winter prepare for -25°C).
Glacier
Mer de Glace
France’s largest glacier, the 200m-deep 'Sea of Ice', flows 7km down the northern side of Mont Blanc, scarred with crevasses formed by the immense pressure of its 90m-per-year movement. The Train du Montenvers, a picturesque, 5km-long cog railway opened in 1909, links Gare du Montenvers with Montenvers (1913m), from where a cable car descends to the glacier and, 420 stairs later, the Grotte de Glace. Also worth a visit is the Glaciorium, an exhibition on the formation (and future) of glaciers.
Area
Ville Ancienne
Chambéry's medieval Old Town reveals its beauty gradually. Rush through its lanes and you risk missing hidden courtyards, murals and well-preserved 14th- to 18th-century hôtels (town houses), many of which are inhabited by modern Chambériens. Streets worth wandering include tiny rue du Sénat de Savoie, cobbled rue Juiverie and boutique-dotted rue de la Métropole. To peep inside private residences and uncover lesser-known corners, enquire about walking tours at Hôtel de Cordon; usually at 2.30pm on weekends (€6, French only).
Citadel
Citadelle de Besançon
Dominating the city from Mt St-Etienne, more than 100 vertical metres above the old town, the 17th-century Citadelle de Besançon – designed by Vauban for Louis XIV – commands sweeping views of the city and the serpentine Doubs River. Along with 11 other similarly impressive military architectural sites, the 12-hectare Citadelle was recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2008. English and German booklets are available at the entrance, including pamphlets aimed at kids. Entry includes audioguides (in French, English and German).
National Park
Parc National des Écrins
One of the greatest summertime pleasures of the French Alps is hiking in France’s second-largest national park. The glacier-carved, 918-sq-km park has 676km of trails spidering through its forests, alpine meadows and 100-plus peaks – they're best explored between mid-June and mid-September. The park's highest point is at the Barre des Écrins (4102m). Book 36 hours in advance with Rando Écrins (04 92 502 505; http://rando.ecrins-parcnational.fr/en/pages/transport) for seasonal bus services into the park from gateway towns Gap, Briançon and Bourg d'Oisans.
Castle
Château des Ducs de Savoie
Medieval walls, Gothic tracery, trompe l'oeil detailing…Chambéry's château has acquired a wealth of styles since its founding in the 11th century. Once home to the counts and dukes of Savoy, the stately stronghold has housed the Préfecture and Conseil Général of the Savoie département since 1860. The gardens and Cour d'Honneur (courtyard) are open free of charge; to see 14th- and 15th-century Tour Trésorerie (Treasury Tower) and stained glass inside Ste-Chapelle, built in the 15th century to house the Turin Shroud, take a tour.
National Park
Parc National de la Vanoise
More than 100 mountain peaks tower above 3000m in this spectacular preserve. Between June and late September, 400km of walking trails grant access to the 529-sq-km park’s pine forests, meadows and dizzying cliffs. Road-trippers can delight in the park, too – grand fortifications like Fort Victor-Emmanuel and Fort Marie Thérèse are prime picnic territory and great for families to explore. In winter, villages like Lanslebourg-Mont-Cénis and Termignon make idyllic bases for beginner and intermediate-level skiers. It's best to have private transport.
Museum
Caves de la Chartreuse
Comprising a museum, cellars, bar/tasting room and gift shop, the Chartreuse Cellars lead visitors through centuries of liqueur history. The distillation of the emerald-green elixir by the Carthusian monks of Grande Chartreuse, traced back to a 1605 manuscript, survived the monks' post-Revolution expulsion from France and the 20th-century nationalisation of the distillery. The museum stops short of giving away the recipe, supposedly a top-secret melange of more than 130 herbs, but a tasting of the final products is included.
Historic Site
Vauban Fortifications
Situated at the confluence of five river valleys, Briançon was highly vulnerable to attack by France's Alpine arch-rival of the 17th century, the Duchy of Savoy. After an especially damaging raid in 1692, vast effort was expended on constructing hilltop fortresses to defend the remote town, under the instructions of master military planner Vauban. These marvels of engineering, along with a dozen other Vauban sites in France, were given Unesco World Heritage status in 2008.