Inside India’s heartland - Kanha and Satpura Tiger Reserve

As I sat by the Banjar, quietly enjoying my wine and soaking in the views of a flock of the Indian Roller, I wondered what it meant to live in the forest. The gentle fisherfolk were at their daily chore whilst the women were out harvesting in their fields. Life seemed balanced and how.

Such was pretty Kanha that the sight of a tiger just enriched the experience. Caught in its gaze on a morning Safari in the Kanha zone after a failed first attempt on the previous day, I was wishing upon my stars to let me partake in some beauty. And there it was hiding amidst the bushes, only to make a quick eye-contact after unflinchingly crossing the lane. Truly, love at first sight.

Soon, it was time to head back to Kanha Earth Lodge, an eco-luxury retreat steeped in sustainability. Carefully crafted from wood and stone with utmost attention to the topography and architecture, Kanha Earth Lodge understands that being in harmony with nature works best.

Lunch and dinner comprised of a traditional Gond meal. The Gonds are an indigenous tribal group in Madhya Pradesh. Their diet majorly consists of two staple millets - Askodo and Kutki, which are often day meals in the form of broth or night meals in the form of dry cereals served with vegetables. They say a well-fed stomach goes a long way. In my case, quite literally. Come evening and we were off for a trek up the hill for a quintessential ‘Chai pe Charcha’. Interesting facts about the flora and fauna were elucidated by ace naturalist Swanand from Pugdundee Safaris. Did you know that the Bar-headed geese can fly at altitudes above 23000 feet? Or that Eastwood’s Sully mentions the same? Or that tigers mark their territory through pheromones and often end up killing progeny that isn’t theirs? Pretty much a view with some unanticipated knowledge.

As dusk broke, the night sky came out in its brightest avatar. In the midst of trees and lanterns (termed as a bush dinner), I had my own fairytale moment with good serenading music and sumptuous food. And wine. Somehow wine pairs well with the wisdom of the jungle. A gaze upwards and I was astounded by the sheer magnanimity of the night sky.

I don’t remember the last time I saw stars so splendid. Add to it the charm of the Orionids. As hundreds of stars fell through the sky and the cool breeze hit my face while lying down on the terrace, I couldn’t help but reminisce about my childhood days back in Gujarat. Life does indeed come a full circle.

As I moved on from Kanha to Denwa Backwater Escape at Satpura, I was already in awe of Madhya Pradesh’s terrains. The state has so much nature and history to offer. Settled amidst the rolling hills of Panchmarhi in the forested land of Madhai by the gentle Denwa river, Denwa Backwater Escape is a perfect eco haven with huge cottages and two tree houses perched upon the Mahua tree. Talk about getting high!

As I settled in my cottage and opened the blinds to let some light in, I was greeted by stunning vistas overlooking grasslands. The patio offered front row seats to the finest show in town - one painted with a wonderfully colourful sky. Come winter, and one could canoe down the river to watch birds and experience that view simultaneously.

Taking a walking and mobile safari is an ideal way to experience the jungle in its entirety. Over a 70 km trek, one cascades from one campsite to another. There’s something innately humble about the jungle. The way it lets you strive for more yet keeps you grounded. My rendezvous with the jungles of Madhya Pradesh has just begun. There’s a lot more to be seen and experienced. I’m certain I’ll come back to find the part of me that I left behind in them.