A weekend in Riyadh: two days exploring Saudi Arabia’s bustling capital city

Kick off your weekend in the Saudi capital with a cup of indulgent gourmet coffee from one of the many specialist coffee spots in Riyadh. Uber-cool Elixir Bunn not only roasts its own beans but conveniently has a branch located in the historic area of Ad Dirah.

Ad Dirah is where Saudi Arabia’s capital city began, and for a glimpse of what the city’s architecture looked like back then, head for the Al Thumairi Gate. This quaint mud-and-wood structure, featuring a small turret in the traditional Najd style, is the only one of seven original gates still standing that once protected ancient Riyadh. From the gate it is a short walk to the Masmak Fortress, where the genesis story of modern Saudi Arabia and how a young warrior-king founded it, is told.

It was in this impressive, sand-coloured fortification, built by the Saud family’s rivals, the Rashids, that a young Emir by the name of Abdul Aziz Ibn Saud and his band of warriors crept in on the night of 15 January 1902 to capture and kill Ibn Ajlan, the local Chief of Riyadh.

Today it’s a small museum displaying historic artefacts, photos and maps of the city dating from the early 1900s that really encapsulate the wealthy Kingdom’s humble beginnings. The Masmak Fortress became the first home of the newly crowned ‘King’ Abdul Aziz, and it was from here over the course of the next three decades he gradually united the rest of central Arabia to found the modern Kingdom of Saudi Arabia in 1932.

Before lunch, take time out to sit in Al Safat Square, beside the fabled fort. As you relive the daring raid of the young warrior-king in your mind’s eye, you’ll witness a wonderful weekly phenomenon, the jummah prayer at Riyadh’s largest mosque, the Imam Turki Bin Abdullah Grand Mosque. If you’re Muslim, you’ll want to take part in this amazing show of communal solidarity, but if you’re not, sit back and watch how the mosque becomes a hive of activity as thousands of worshippers stream in, pushing it to its 17,000 capacity.

From Ad Dirah, take the quieter Adh Dhahirah Road north towards Al Futah and the National Museum, grabbing a quick bite along the way from one of the many delicious local eateries that line the road. If you arrive before 4pm – the museum’s opening hour on Fridays – use this time to admire its stunning architecture, which tastefully combines elements of traditional Najd design with modern features.

Then step into this world-class museum where state-of-the-art galleries display examples of prehistoric rock paintings from Jubba and a full-size recreation of a tomb from the ancient Nabataean city of Madain Saleh, alongside exhibitions detailing the story of the Kingdom’s two holiest cities, and the beginnings of the Saudi state.

As the sun begins to set on your first night in Riyadh, make your way north to the capital’s very first skyscraper, the Al Faisaliah Tower, built by British architect Sir Norman Foster. Look up to see the crystal-ball like structure, seemingly suspended at the apex – that’s where you’re headed for the Globe Experience.

Savour the delicious panoramas of Riyadh at sunset, through one of the 655 glass panels of the Globe before taking your seat in the Globe Lounge, the Faisaliah’s home of fine dining, where you can tuck into Japanese wagyu steaks and Canadian lobster, as you watch the veil of the desert night slowly envelope the capital city.

Your second day in Riyadh begins way back in time and at the eastern edge of the city, where you will spend the morning exploring one of the country’s five Unesco World Heritage sites, Al Turaif district of Al Diraiyah.

This is where it really began for the Saudis. It was in this ancient mud-brick city in 1744, that the great founding father of the very first Saudi dynasty, Muhammad Ibn Saud, formed a powerful alliance with a local religious cleric to establish the Emirate of Diriyah – the first Saudi State.

Take your time wandering through this carefully restored love letter to traditional Najd architecture. As you do, be sure to admire the intricately carved, coloured wooden doors and beautifully restored turrets of impressive mud-brick palaces and buildings. Particular highlights include the Palace of Saad Ibn Saud, the At-Turaif Bath House and the multi-storey Salwa Palace, where Ibn Saud first lived. Then pay a visit to the beautifully restored Al Dawasir Mosque, with its mud minaret, and climb the rooftop terrace for delightful views of the ancient palm forests that surround the historic centre.

Wander across the curved new footbridge to Al Diraiyah’s commercial zone and grab yourself a light lunch from one of the fast food outlets before finding a seat looking out over Wadi Hanifa across to the historic Al Turaif site.

Now make your way towards the centre of Riyadh as you go in search of the capital’s fledgling art scene. Naila Gallery provides a wonderfully intimate glimpse of regional artworks – this welcoming space on Takhassusi Street frequently changes its exhibits, and has featured acclaimed Saudi artists such as Shrouq Bnt Fahad and Abdullah Al Marzook. Displays are in both Arabic and English.

It’s a short walk south from the gallery to the traditional Najd Village restaurant, where an open courtyard with tastefully decorated little booths instantly transports you to a traditional Najd home. Sit yourself down in one of these and prepare to tuck into the heartiest of local dishes, kabsa ­– mounds of lightly spiced rice, topped with succulent lamb or chicken.

Post-dinner, head for the iconic Kingdom Tower for a spot of retail therapy inside the shopping centre, where you’ll find some of the world’s most famous designer outlets. Once you’ve maxed out the Gold Amex card, head over to the super-fast lifts that whisk you, at a speed of 180km/h, to the 99th floor for the Sky Bridge.

Standing high above Riyadh, a million lights twinkling back at you, is the only way to end a weekend in Saudi Arabia’s fascinating capital city.

Produced by Lonely Planet for the Saudi Commission for Tourism & National Heritage. All editorial views are those of Lonely Planet alone and reflect our policy of editorial independence and impartiality.