7 of the best listening bars in Japan

Over the past decade, Japanese-style listening bars have taken the world by storm, with hip joints appearing in places such as New York, Berlin and London. Each of these emulates – or tries to – the atmosphere and ambience of its forebears in Japan with large speakers, high-end turntables and vast record collections. Yet nothing really beats the buzz of visiting one (or two or more) where it all began.

Since arriving in Japan, I’ve lost count of how many bars and cafes I’ve visited. Each is different, and many are memorable in their own special way. Here are my picks of Japan's best listening bars.

1. Eonta, Matsumoto

Best for classic jazz

At Eonta, established in 1974 in Matsumoto in Nagano Prefecture, jazz-loving owner Kobayashi-san plays from an extensive record (and CD and iPad) collection. The dark wood furnishings are ideal for getting comfy for the evening, and the huge custom speakers are a novel JBL/ALTEC combination.

The wall outside Matsumoto’s longest-standing jazz bar hints at its important role in the jazz scene. It’s covered in signatures from the jazz legends who have graced its doors, Chick Corea and Bill Evans among them. Sit in the no-talking spot next to the speakers for true jazz focus, or perch by the bar or in the cubbyhole toward the back. As well as coffee and whisky, the bar serves up great frozen margaritas.

Planning tip: There is no speaking next to the speakers, and Eonta is cash only.

2. Record Bar Analog, Tokyo

Best for hearing your favorite songs

Climb a flight of stairs in an unassuming building in the Tokyo neighborhood of Shibuya to reach Record Bar Analog. It has the plushest seats around and what feels like more staff than any other listening bar in the country. It’s run by a roster of young music lovers who take turns playing guests’ requests. Once seated, choose from an impressive list of cocktails, then head to the record boxes in the middle of the space to pick out a record and pass it to the music selectors at the front of the room.

Depending on the clientele, the music played each night is completely different. One night may hear all R&B, while other nights may be Japanese city pop, with the odd Japanese hip-hop track thrown in.

Planning tip: There is a 90-minute time limit and a cover charge of 1000 Japanese yen (¥) per person.

3. P.M. Sounds, Kyoto

Best for variety

P.M. Sounds in Kyoto is a newer breed of listening bar, one with visitors in mind. Its owner, Takaaki Tonegawa, was inspired to start collecting while working in California, where he’d go hunting for records on Friday evenings after a stressful day.

He reverentially chooses albums from his collection of newer records and CDs, which includes various genres. According to his website, he also has the latest pop music, although I haven’t heard that played there yet. Sound comes courtesy of JBL speakers (of course), with consultation by Koji Yamamoto, a veteran audio critic.

Planning tip: The bar can get busy, so it's worth getting there early.

4. Milk Bar, Osaka

Best for going solo

At Milk Bar in Osaka, bartender, DJ and owner Matsumoto-san plays select cuts from his collection of over 4000 records to a small number of guests. His tiny counter setup, pair of two-person tables a step back and two large JBL speakers mean that every guest can compare musical notes while they sip on a whisky sour.

While the night away listening to tunes covering genres from soul and funk to Latin and rock, chatting about the music in hushed tones with Matsumoto and his customers. He’s always keen to share what’s playing, egged on by his band of regulars. You’ll be music pals before you know it.

Planning tip: Milk Bar is cash only, and there's a cover charge of ¥500 per person. Smoking is allowed.

5. Record Bar 33 1/3rpm, Tokyo

Best for rock and pop nostalgia

Record Bar 33 1/3rpm is right next to Shibuya Station. Opened in 2013 by Shigeru and Mayumi Itoh, it’s a listening bar designed with three things in mind: analog music, alcohol and customers. Upon ordering a drink, you’re handed a slip of paper to write one request for Shigeru, who stands front left behind the bar at the turntables all night.

Shigeru’s 6000-piece, record-only collection mainly covers rock and pop from countries such as the UK and US, with punters likely to hear bands including Fleetwood Mac and the Beatles. He specifically does not play city pop.

Planning tip: Read up on the rules before going – this is a requirement of entry. Only alcohol is served here, smoking is permitted, and there is no entry to groups over six. The cover charge is ¥1540 per person.

6. Jamaica, Sapporo

Best for retro jazz

Jazz bar and cafe Jamaica has been a part of Sapporo lore for over 60 years, hidden on the fourth floor of a building in the iconic Tanuki Koji shopping arcade. It’s the sort of place that one must seek out, secreted among chain shops, rowdy bars and drugstores on a busy street.

In contrast, stepping into Jamaica is like stepping back in time. A long, dark bar counter curves from the entrance to the back, and the walls are lined with records, CDs and bottle-keeps of whisky. The mirror at one end makes it seem like the room stretch forever. Under the records, two hunks of JBLs buoy the wall, and the bar is headed up by two more.

Planning tip: Smoking is allowed here, and it is cash only. The cover charge is ¥500 per person after 6pm.

7. Bokunen, Kanazawa

Best for jazz with curry

The arty city of Kanazawa in Ishikawa Prefecture has several noteworthy audiophile bars, but Bokunen has to be its most memorable, even if just for the location. It’s hidden up a side street, inside a fenced garden. Trying to find it for the first time feels illicit, but once through the door, wandering guests are greeted by a jazz-and-record-filled sanctuary.

Staff play jazz from the 1940s to the present through the magnificent JBLs behind the bar counter. Bokunen serves curry all day. It’s open in the afternoon as a jazz kissa (cafe); at 7pm it turns into a bar, dealing in whisky and espresso martinis too. Make sure to inquire what’s playing, and you’ll leave with a list of new recommendations.

Planning tip: Smoking is allowed. The cover charge is ¥800 per person after 7pm or ¥1100 for groups of five or more.