Fagun - a festival celebrating 400 years of history and the scent of spring

Since its inception ROOH has stood out for its novel approach to Indian food. The menu, that adapts to seasons and adopts local, regional and seasonal produce, is as modern as it is traditional. Chef Sujan Sarkar’s interpretation of Indian sensibilities meanwhile continues to win hearts. In its newest offering ROOH brings a menu spanning 400-years and presents culinary delights from the Mughal courts.

“Do you know, Humayun, was extremely fond of sherbats and rose was his favorite? It is as an ode to him that we have created this floral sherbat from a recipe from Ni’matnama.” The crimson and fragrant drink in question matches the modern mid-century chair I am sitting on and the theme of the evening: Spring. It also sets the tone for the Chef’s Tasting Menu that we are here to experience.

“This menu takes you on a unique culinary journey that covers about 400 years of Mughal rule in India.” We are soon joined by Tanushree Bhowmik, a well-known food researcher and the curator of the tasting menu, who has tied in recipes from Mughal texts like Ain-i-Akbari, Ni'matnama, Nuskhah-i-Shahjahani, Ḵẖulāṣat-i Mākūlāt-u-Mashrūbāt, Rukat-e-Alamgiri and other court accounts and moulded them to suit modern palate. “We have unique accents from the royal kitchens of Mandu and the holy kitchens of Braj that we want to bring to everyone”.

Mast-ki-tashtari, a course made of three dainty yogurt tarts and aash-e-bhagra, pasta with clear broth displays what Tanushree had just explained. The tarts are made with flower extracts and fruit and come from the time of Noor Jahan, who had introduced yogurt to the Mughal kitchens. The Pink, floral accented fettuccini pasta with a clear broth is made with a recipe from the time of Shahjehan. It is hard to believe that dishes so modern and delicate could have adorned the tables of the emperors as long as 400 years ago.

“When we think Mughal food, we often think Mughlai food,” smiles Bhowmik, “but nothing can be farther from truth. Mughal food was refined and subtle as you are experiencing today. Since we want it to appeal to everyone, we have just changed the shapes and sizes of some of the preparations.” The conversation soon veers towards the Mughal history and how it is intertwined with that of Delhi and how Braj, Mandu, and Delhi remained the bastions of Mughal cuisine that changed over the centuries to adopt local flavors, ingredients and produce. Flowers, that are the highlight of today’s meal, being just one such element.

What is the modern source of these recipes? I am compelled to ask. I find that English translations of the Ni'matnama and Ain-e-Akbari are easily available, as are other texts. I also learn how Ni’matnama, which is much older than Ain-i-Akbari, has better and more detailed recipes that are easy to execute even today. “Most ingredients are still available, only we had to look very hard to find the authentic and pure versions,” quips Tanushree. Given the Mughals had adopted most of Indian ingredients, it is not surprising. One such ingredient turns out to be lentils or daals.

The Mughal Emperors were passionate about lentils, an element that the subcontinent had infused into their diet. And we eat kebabs made with urad and chana dals. Flavoured with saffron and rose, they are made with a recipe from Akbar's time and presented with salsa and chutney. The mutton kebab meanwhile comes from Shahjehan's period, which was also the golden period in cultural and culinary scape of the Mughal Empire. What wins our heart however is the musk and rose flavoured aromatic bread, nan-i-tang that accompanies the kebab. Thin, soft and fragrant, it is unlike most robust breads that are served in the name of Mughlai rotis.

ROOH from its outset has been working towards bringing to life traditional recipes and ingredients and present then in a contemporary format. The fagun festival is one such example where the culinary team at ROOH led by Samrat Banerjee, the Director of Operation at ROOH in Delhi, has executed the concept and recipes dating back centuries to perfection while also making them relevant to the modern time. "The idea," says Samrat, "is not only to bring forth parts of our culinary history, but also to make it contextual to the current times." The team has also created similar menus in the past and plans to continue that in the future too with a summer menu in pipeline.

Both Samrat and Tanushree tell us how they wanted to develop an interest in culinary history among young chefs. Which is why the team was taken on walks in Mehrauli and told stories of its past. The effort is certainly visible in the courses that could have slipped into the abyss of spicy Mughlai food but does not. There is immense restraint in the recipes executed by Head Chef Tarun Bhatia and his young team, which showcase the subtle nuances of the recipe with no compromise on taste or flavour whatsoever. A commendable feat for anyone let alone a young team.

While everything on the new spring menu at ROOH is a work of art – both literally and figuratively – the desserts have us floored. The first one is a tesu tinted milk cannelloni stuffed with flavored rabri. An ode to Tesu ki Barfi of Vrindavan, it comes with empress Noor Jahan’s signature stencil art. The second represents Holi, the culmination of spring and also the meal.

“Sair-e-Gulfaroshan, started by Akbar Shah, the second last Mughal Emperor, for the safe return of his son, Jehangir Shah from the British, is still celebrated as a festival of flowers and of secularism in Mehrauli,” explains Samrat. “During the festival, the Mughal empress would walk from Qila-e-Mualla to Mehrauli to offer a floral chadar in the shrine of Sufi saint Hazrat Qutubuddin Kaki and Devi Jogmaya temple. Since we are located it Mehrauli, it is all the more relevant to us. That is why we have named our last dessert after the festival."

Sair-e-Gulfaroshan, the dessert, turns out to be the storyboard of not only the festival but also the menu. Almond halwa mousse, in a beautiful short crust pastry, served with besan tuille, is delightfully light and contemporary. The same we feel can be said about the meal, while it brings you the history of a 400-year-old empire, it doesn’t overwhelm you with it. And that is the best part of this meal.

Fagun, the special spring menu is on offer until 28th March at ROOH, New Delhi.