Copy my trip: To Arctic Norway with Hurtigruten

I’d always imagined exploring Norway by ship, but the idea really stayed with me after my first trip there in 2013. My then boyfriend surprised me with a marriage proposal in Oslo, by the edge of a fjord at night. I remember looking out over the water, dark and still, with just a few lights along the shore, and thinking I wanted to come back one day and see it all in a different way.

I’d chased the northern lights in Iceland before and didn’t see them, so I went into this trip hoping I might have better luck. But what I found was something else entirely. This experience wasn’t about chasing the lights. It was about time on the water, time on the land and moving through these coastal communities and seeing how they all connect. In that sense, this trip gave me exactly what I didn’t realize I was looking for.

Where did you stay? What was the vibe?

I stayed on board the Hurtigruten MS Trollfjord. With a capacity of around 500, this ship is not massive, and it’s easy to find your way around quickly. I had an Arctic Superior cabin, which was cozy – just enough space for me – and had a porthole that kept me connected to wherever I was.

The overall vibe is relaxed. It’s not a dress-up-for-dinner kind of cruise. People are out during the day doing excursions, so everything feels more laid-back. That carries through to the lounges, where people read, do puzzles and sit by the bar. There’s a space for every pace.

Best thing you ate?

The food on the Hurtigruten MS Trollfjord really shines. There’s a clear focus on Norwegian cuisine and local ingredients, and it feels thoughtful without trying too hard.

One dish while at Røst, served during the Arctic fine-dining experience, was particularly memorable: a duck croquette with root vegetable cream. I don’t usually go for duck, but this completely won me over. It was crisp on the outside, tender through the center and full of flavor without feeling heavy. One of the servers explained that the ducks are raised with a focus on their well-being – music is played for them, and they’re handled with care, even played with. They called them “happy ducks,” and it made sense. If that’s what happy ducks taste like, I’m not arguing.

It’s also worth mentioning one of the most memorable things I drank: Hurtigruten’s Havets Bobler sparkling wine, which was part of the wine pairing at Røst. It’s aged for six months on the Arctic seabed, about 34m deep, in collaboration with Rathfinny Wine Estate in Sussex, UK. It’s fresh, bright, with citrus notes and just a hint of black pepper. It’s one of those wines you don’t stop talking about.

Favorite activity from the trip?

Hands down, my favorite activity was dogsledding at Holmen Husky Lodge in Alta. After a briefing, you’re out on a trail with the dogs, and you feel their energy straightaway. Our musher, Brent Sass, is an award-winning dogsledder from Canada, and the way he worked with the dogs gave me a sense of the connection there.

One moment sealed it for me. Brent’s dog Davos decided to leave a little surprise on the trail midrun. Brent called out to him, but Davos kept going, tail up, and gave a quick glance back like he knew exactly what he’d done. We all burst out laughing. I couldn’t help but think, This is real life out here.

What’s your favorite photo from the trip, and where was it taken?

My favorite photo was taken while dogsledding. It’s of one of our hosts, Phil, sitting on the sled with his arm around one of his dogs.

Phil is from the UK but has spent several seasons working with the dogs in Norway, and that familiarity shows. The sun had finally come out after a few gray days, so the clear blue sky glows against the snow-covered ground, which makes the whole moment stand out even more.

What do you wish you had packed?

Norwegian weather is no joke, and my hair definitely felt it. I wish I’d brought a heavier moisturizer. I have Afro curly hair, and by the end of the trip, it was noticeably drier.

The second item is slip-on ice grips for my boots. I was not ready for that ice. Even with good tread, it was slick, especially up at the North Cape, and I came close to slipping more than once. Watching other people move around easily with their grips told me everything I needed to know.

What was the most under-the-radar activity you enjoyed?

The Arctic afternoon tea at Røst was one of the more under-the-radar things I did on board. It follows the structure of a classic afternoon tea, but everything is rooted in Norwegian ingredients.

You still get scones and small cakes, but alongside that, there are elements like cured fish and seafood, all done in a way that feels fresh and tied to the region. It’s also just a genuinely unique experience. How often do you get to say you had afternoon tea in the Arctic? It’s as cool as it sounds.

What was the most touristy thing you did?

Running across the ship to catch the northern lights was peak tourist energy for me.

Whenever they’re visible, an announcement goes out across the ship, and on my final night on board the MS Trollfjord, it actually happened. The second it came through, you could feel the energy shift. People started moving fast – doors opening, footsteps running. I had spotted the lights from my cabin and was getting dressed, but once that announcement hit, I was scrambling right along with everyone else, trying to get up to the deck.

By the time I made it outside, they were only lightly visible. But for that stretch of time, everyone on board was locked into the same goal, and I was right there in it with them.

Most useful tip for someone planning the same trip?

This trip was a reminder to manage expectations when it comes to the northern lights. It’s not something you can guarantee, no matter how much you plan around it. If you’re set on seeing them, think carefully about timing. From what I heard locally, the best chances tend to be from late December through the heart of winter, but that also comes with more unpredictable weather. If you’re planning a winter trip, commit to the season and go in knowing that conditions can shift.

More importantly, focus on everything else the experience offers. The excursions, the time on the water, the food and moving through these coastal communities all shape the trip in a much deeper way. The northern lights, if they show up, are a bonus. For me, it brought me back to that first trip to Norway and that feeling of wanting to return and see more – and this time, I did.