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Svalbard landscape. Jøran Skaar/500px
Norway may be the most dramatic place I’ve ever visited – landscape-wise, at least. Traveling between the dense Finnskogen forest, with its lakes and rolling mountains, and the cold and vast arctic tundra is jarring and captivating. I recently spent a week canoeing, hiking and dogsledding across Norway’s natural wonders with the help of Up Norway as the Norwegian autumn began to take shape.
This five-day itinerary is perfect for those who are looking to experience untouched nature at its finest.
When to arrive: We arrived on a Friday, so we could extend our trip with a couple of weekend days. SAS Airlines has daily flights from New York to Oslo year-round.
How to get from the airport: Since you will be venturing beyond Oslo, I recommend renting a car or hiring transportation.
Getting around town: A car or hired driver is essential for exploring beyond the city in Norway.
Where to stay: If you spend any time in Oslo, I recommend The Thief or Sommerro Hotel. In Finnskogen, try PAN Treetop Cabins or Finnskogtoppen Health Retreat. In Svalbard, try Funken Lodge for a more upscale experience or Basecamp Hotel for a cozy cabin-inspired stay. For the most raw arctic experience, head to Isfjord Radio Adventure Hotel.
What to pack: Norway’s weather can be unpredictable! Layers, layers and more layers are essential. I also recommend wool clothing and water – and windproof outdoorsy gear for more nature-focused excursions.
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Day 1: Deep into the forest
Morning
After a redeye from New York, we landed in Oslo and headed straight to the car and began our journey to the Finnskogen Forest. We enjoyed a quality breakfast during our SAS flight, but if you are still feeling peckish, grab an espresso and pastry from the airport.
How to spend the day
En route to the hotel, we stopped in Svullrya to visit the Norsk Skogfinsk Museum, which will open on October 25, 2025. During our visit, we learned about the history of Forest Finn culture. In the 17th century, a wave of Finnish people immigrated to Norway, settling within the Finnskogen Forest. There, they created their own culture, language and practices that are still discussed today.
We enjoyed lunch at the museum before getting back on the road and continuing to the PAN Treetop Cabins.
The cabins are on stilts, perched along the tops of the trees, providing mesmerizing bird's-eye views of the landscape. After settling in, I headed to the hot tub on the property, which is nestled in the forest.
There are also hiking and biking trails readily available for guests to explore in their free time.
Dinner
For dinner, we walked down to Søstuen Kafé, which is run by Christine, the owner of PAN. We dined on an exquisite spread of fresh focaccia, potatoes au gratin, venison and a tomato-cucumber salad.
After dark
If you haven’t hot tubbed already, marvel at the post-sunset unobstructed view of the night sky while relaxing after a long day’s journey.
Day 2: Canoeing and storytelling
Morning
In the morning, wake to a basket delivered to your cabin door, or fresh fruit and bread, cheese, jam and honey. Plus, all the workings to whip up pancakes in your own kitchen.
After a hearty breakfast, we headed out on a canoeing excursion. We spent roughly three hours navigating the sleepy river, taking in the quiet and looking for wildlife.
We made a pit stop, where our guides provided focaccia sandwiches with brie. They built a fire and brewed a pot of coffee and tea right along the water. It was as serene as it gets.
How to spend the day
When my tired arms and I left our canoeing excursion, we headed to Finnskogtoppen Health and Wellness Resort for some more Forest Finn knowledge. Around a fire, perched on a cliff, looking out over a lake, Marit, a local Forest Finn expert, used storytelling, like explaining the meaning of symbols they left throughout the forest and how it connected to their daily lives, to teach us about the beliefs and practices of the Forest Finn.
After our lesson, we went and enjoyed the spa facilities, where I spent an hour or so rotating between the dry and wet saunas, taking a dip in the pool and relaxing in the hot tub. Finnskogtoppen has a number of day passes available for non-guests, whether you want to spa, dine or enjoy one of their classes.
Dinner
For dinner, we enjoyed a gorgeous spread at Finnskogtoppen and a wine pairing. Minestrone soup, mango and shrimp and a stunning cut of venison over potatoes were the highlights.
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Stuffed and relaxed, we returned to PAN Treetop Cabins, where I promptly fell asleep.
Day 3: Arctic living
Morning
We began the day early, enjoying breakfast at our cabins before heading to the Oslo Airport to embark on our journey to the Arctic. We caught our flight to Longyearben, Svalbard, an island located north of the Norwegian mainland. Originally solely a coal mining town, after the last mine closed earlier this year, Longyearben has shifted to become a more research-focused destination for students and scientists and adventurous tourists looking to experience the Arctic.
How to spend the day
When we landed in Svalbard, we were picked up and transferred to the Basecamp Hotel, whose vibe can only be described as koselig, the Norwegian equivalent of hygge. You remove your shoes as you enter the building, a tradition that dates back to the coal mining days, to avoid tracking coal dust into spaces, and we made our way to our cabin-like rooms.
Once we had settled in, we enjoyed a Thai red curry in the dining room, which was much needed in the cooler temperatures of the Arctic.
One of the guides at Basecamp then took us on a tour of Longyearben town. We learned the history of this unique settlement and made a stop at the North Pole Expedition Museum, which teaches the history of Svalbard's discovery. Afterward, we stopped to view (the outside of) the Global Seed Vault, which is home to the world's crop diversity and acts as a backup for the world's food supply.
Dinner
For dinner, we ventured beyond town to a deserted valley, home to Camp Barentz, a cabin made to resemble the Svalbard explorers' original cabin, which they built during their visit in 1596.
Inside the cabin, a large fire burned, cooking up a reindeer stew. As we sipped wine and aquavit, the host taught us about the discovery of Svalbard and the devastating struggles that the sailors had to overcome. He also spoke about polar bears and their temperaments and lifestyles.
Day 4: Dog sledding and whale spotting
Morning
Early in the morning, we enjoyed a breakfast spread at Basecamp before making our way to the dog yard to go dog sledding with Hurtigruten Svalbard, which Up Norway arranged for us.
When we arrived at the dog yard, the environment was chaotic. Barking dogs were jumping with excitement at the prospect of getting out on the run. We donned our exposure suits, which would protect us from the elements, and learned the rules for navigating the dog carts (during this time of year, carts with wheels are used instead of sleds because of the lack of snow).
It was time to begin. We hit the road, weaving our way through the valley. Once the dogs started running, they fell quiet, focused on the task at hand. I both rode as a passenger and operated the cart, which was an exhilarating experience. The landscape around us was lined with towering mountains, and we spotted reindeer along the way.
After our excursion, we headed up to the lodge for waffles and jam before meeting the new litter of puppies.
How to spend the day
Following our morning with the dogs, we returned to Basecamp Hotel, packed our bags, grabbed a quick lunch and headed to the dock to make our journey to Isfjord Radio, a radio station turned adventure hotel that is more remote than even Longyearben.
En route to the dock, we spotted a pod of beluga whales swimming in the fjord, a magical experience.
We took a 1.5-hour boat ride to Isfjord Radio, where we were met with steaming cups of Solbærtoddy, a warm drink made with blackcurrant syrup.
After settling into our rooms, we went on a walking tour of the retired radio station. Due to its remote location, you must be accompanied by a trained employee with a rifle when you're outside in case of a polar bear sighting. Thank you, Ingar, Julie and Runnar, who kept us safe as we explored, swam and enjoyed a sauna.
There is also the option to embark on a hike, but due to the weather, we opted for a relaxing time indoors. Following our tour, we headed into the main station for pre-dinner cocktails.
Dinner
Our meal was inspired by the landscape, accompanied by a wine tasting. We began with seal tartare, followed by fresh salmon. Dessert was a brownie with currant jam.
Day 5: Fjords and Arctic swimming
Morning
Starting early, we called our guide to take us to the sauna. Situated on the edge of the tundra, the sauna offers views over the fjord and allows visitors to look for whales and walruses.
After sweating it out for a while, we proceeded to take a dip in the arctic waters. At roughly 6ºC, it was a chilly but invigorating way to start the day, followed by a beautiful breakfast spread.
How to spend the day
We bundled up and headed out for an afternoon on the water, weaving between fjords, spotting whales and marveling at glaciers.
We enjoyed lunch on the boat before heading back to Isfjord Radio.
Evening
We caught a ride back to Longyearben and checked into the Funken Lodge, an upscale oasis in the heart of the Arctic.
For dinner, we made our way to Huset for a 14-course tasting dinner that leaned heavily on arctic flavors: think crab and scallops, seal, reindeer and their arctic bird, ptarmigan.
The next day, we would begin our journey back to Oslo and onward to our respective homes.
Things to do in Oslo
If you want to spend some time in Oslo, check out the SAS Museum, which charts the history of the Scandinavian airline.
Explore the city, walk along the Opera House (you can climb on top of it), marvel at the unique design of the library, shop and sightsee to your heart's content. Grab a Norwegian sweater at Dale of Norway. And dine at the moody Sommerro Hotel restaurant.
Chamidae Ford was a guest of the Up Norway and SAS Airlines. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
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