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The Sudetes Mountains run for more than 250km along the Czech–Polish border, extending into both Germany and the Czech Republic. The highest part of this old and eroded chain of mountains is the Karkonosze, reaching 1602m at Mt Śnieżka. Though the Sudetes don’t offer the most arresting alpine scenery, they’re amazingly varied and heavily covered in forest, with spectacular geological formations such as those at the Góry Stołowe National Park. Skiing, including Nordic skiing, is possible at Karpacz and Szklarska Poręba.
To the north, the Sudetes gradually decline into a belt of gently rolling foothills known as the Przedgórze Sudeckie (Sudetes Foothills). This area is more densely populated, and many towns and villages still boast some of their centuries-old timber buildings. Combining visits to these historical settlements with hikes into the mountains and relaxation in centuries-old spas is the best way to explore the region.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Sudetes Mountains.
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Karkonosze National Park is a 55.75-sq-km belt that runs along the Polish–Czech border for some 25km. The two main settlements here are the resort towns of Szklarska Poręba and Karpacz. The range is divided by the Karkonosze Pass (Przełęcz Karkonoska; 1198m). The highest summit of the eastern section is Mt Śnieżka (1602m), while the western portion is topped by Mt Wielki Szyszak (1509m). The park is predominantly spruce forest up to an altitude of about 1250m.
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This mighty fortification, begun under Austrian rule in the mid-17th century on the site of former strongholds dating to the 10th century, was extended and modernised over the following 200 years. Today it covers 17 hectares, making it the largest and best-preserved fortification of its kind in Poland. The walls in the lower parts measure up to 11m thick, and taper to never less than 4m. The entrance is up the hill north of the town’s central Rynek.
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The Góry Stołowe ( goo -ri sto- wo -veh; Table Mountains) are among the most spectacular ranges of the Sudetes, as they’re topped by a plateau punctuated by fantastic rock formations. One of the highlights of the 63-sq-km park is Szczeliniec Wielki, its highest outcrop. Both German poet Goethe and the USA's sixth president, John Quincy Adams, walked here and admired the dramatic scenery. From a distance, the plateau looks like a high ridge adorned with pinnacles, rising abruptly from the surrounding fields.
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Karpacz has a curious architectural gem – Wang Church, the only Nordic Romanesque building in Poland. Pronounced 'Vang', this remarkable wooden structure in Upper Karpacz was one of about 400 such chapels built in the early 12th century on the bank of Lake Vang in southern Norway; only 28 of these 'stave churches' survive there today. King Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia bought this one in 1841, had it dismantled piece by piece, and then transported to Karpacz via Berlin.
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You can’t miss this macabre chapel in the Church of St Bartholomew’s grounds at Czermna, 2km north of Kudowa’s town centre. The length of its walls and ceiling are covered with human skulls and bones – about 3000 of them, with another 20,000 to 30,000 filling the crypt below. One of only three such chapels in Europe, it was inspired by Rome's Capuchin Crypt. The overall effect is stunning; sadly, photography isn't permitted
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Jelenia Góra’s main attraction is this massive church. One of six new churches permitted by the 1707 Treaty of Altranstädt, it was built between 1709 and 1718 for a Lutheran congregation, though it’s been Catholic since 1947. The three-storey galleries plus the dark, densely packed ground floor can accommodate 4000 people. The ceiling is embellished with illusionist baroque paintings of scenes from the Old and New Testaments, while the magnificent organ over the high altar dates from 1729.
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This basilica was erected in two stages in the late 14th and early 15th centuries; note the Gothic doorway in the southern entrance portraying Mary and St John at the foot of the cross. The interior, with its theatrical 22m-high rococo main altar crafted from brick-red marble, has mostly baroque furnishings, including a richly decorated organ. These baroque features were added in the 18th century, following the basilica's reconstruction by the Jesuits after the ravages of the Thirty Years' War.
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This church, southwest of the Rynek and dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption, is the most imposing religious building in town. It took almost 150 years before the massive Gothic structure was eventually completed in 1490. Inside, the altars, pulpit, pews, organ and carved confessionals all blaze with florid baroque ornamentation, and even the Gothic vaulting – usually left plain – has been sumptuously decorated with plasterwork.
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This interesting set of tunnels dates in parts to the 13th century. The 600m route, enlivened by audiovisual exhibits, links cellars, warehouses for storing beer, and tunnels that were hollowed out under the Old Town over 400 years. You can walk the whole length in 15 minutes, exiting near the Kłodzko Fortress. The entrance is near the parish church.