Where to eat and drink in Ghana

While most visitors to Ghana will leap at the opportunity to try fufu (a ball of mashed cassava, yam or plantain), the West African country has plenty of other traditional foods and drinks for travelers to seek out and enjoy. 

From oily palm nut soup paired with starches like banku (cooked balls of fermented corn flour) to filling street snacks like rice water porridge, you'll have plenty of fuel to explore this beautiful country. What’s more, the capital Accra has an ever-evolving dining scene that offers everything from top-notch sushi to gourmet burgers. This is everything you need to know about where to eat and drink in Ghana.

Enjoy a nourishing bowl of local soup or stew

You’ll learn quickly that Ghana is the home of stews and soups fused with flavorful spices. Groundnut soup should be one of the first meals you try in Ghana. This warming, mild-to-spicy dish is cooked with peanut butter, ginger, and either fish or meat, and is served at lunchtime or dinner. Like many Ghanaian soups, it’s usually eaten with a carbohydrate like fufu or banku. 

Palm nut soup, made from tomatoes, ginger, garlic, chili pepper and palm nuts, gets its bright color from red palm oil. The hearty dish boasts a thick texture and can be eaten with an assortment of meats like beef and chicken. 

When it comes to comfort food, the aroma of the hearty flavors in goat light soup is a nostalgic scent in many Ghanaian households. An indigenous soup of the Akan and GaDangme people, this peppery dish is a culinary heirloom of past generations. This soul-warming vegetable stock started as a fish-based meal and has since evolved to use other meats such as goat, chicken or lamb. The protein of choice is combined with spices and chili or habanero peppers in a tomato-based sauce before undergoing a slow simmer. Often served with fufu, goat light soup shows how Ghanaian food is often simple yet full of nourishing and flavorful surprises. 

Red red is a bean stew normally served with fried plantain and is among the top food choices you should try in Ghana. The dish is a mixture of black-eyed peas, red palm oil, chili pepper and a host of other spices. It can sometimes include smoked meat or fish and often comes with a side of friend plantains.

Where to try it: 

• Most local roadside eateries, known as chop bars, will have groundnut soup on the menu.

• Aduanipa is a 24-hour restaurant in Accra that serves Ghanaian classics seven days a week. Palm nut soup is always available here.

• Goat light soup is a regular at most budget-friendly chop bars, including two of Accra’s most popular: Aduanipa and The Chop Bar. 

• Known for its authentic African meals, The Buka Restaurant offers some of the best red red in Accra, according to many Ghanaians.

Master the local art of ordering the perfect sides for your meal

Mashed and mixed from cassava, plantain or yam to get its thick, sticky texture, fufu is Ghana’s national dish. The starchy accompaniment for many soup and stew-based dishes, fufu is a daily dish in many households and one of the top things to try in Ghana on the food front. Use the fingers on your right hand to separate pieces of fufu from their whole circular or oval shape and dip them into your soup or stew of choice. 

Used as another accompaniment for meals in Ghana, banku is a carbohydrate composed of fermented corn and cassava dough shaped into golf-sized balls. The qualities of banku and fufu are not too far off one another and can easily be mixed up. Banku is distinguished by its slightly sour taste and thickness in comparison to fufu. It’s added to stews and soups and is eaten with a spicy pepper blend. 

Besides soups and stews, banku is commonly eaten with a freshly grilled piece of tilapia topped with green and red peppers and onions. Usually served with a side of shito (hot pepper sauce) and green sauce, the banku should be dipped into both before diving into the tilapia. 

Where to try it:

• Bush Canteen at the University of Ghana is known as one of the most popular local spots to eat in Accra – and an even better place to enjoy some freshly-pounded fufu.

• Another traditional restaurant in Accra, Dimaensa is worth stopping by for some banku. 

• Azmera Restaurant in Accra places a tasty spin on a plate of tilapia with the option of corn or billet banku and a side of avocados.   

Beat the heat with a refreshing drink

Also known as hibiscus tea, sobolo is a popular drink in Ghana. Recognizable by its purple-red color and typically sold in labeled water bottles, sobolo can be found in restaurants, chop bars or even on the roadside. The drink's properties are stripped from the steeping of Hibiscus leaves, sweetened with sugar, and added ginger. Sobolo mimics a passion fruit drink with a hint of spiciness from the ginger. 

After a day's exploration and fun, unwind with a local tipple. Akpeteshie is a drink whose roots go back to Ghana’s independence in 1957, when the drink was allowed to be distilled after decolonization. Derived from palm tree sap, akpeteshie is a strong palm wine both in taste and alcohol levels. 

Where to try it:

• Keep an eye out for any vendors selling bottles of sobolo on the road while you’re getting around Ghana by car or tro tro (small minivan or bus).

• Akpeteshie can be found at most local roadside pubs.

Indulge in all the jollof rice your stomach can handle 

If you visit Ghana and don’t try jollof rice, did you even really visit? It’s rare not to see this spicy, rice-based dish on any menu you can get your hands on. Mixed with a base of blended tomatoes and onions, jollof is usually served with meat. Depending on who is in the kitchen, the rice might be served plain or mixed with small vegetables.

Where to try it:

• Noble Chef serves Accra around the clock and has some of the best jollof rice in the city.

Grab some food on the go from street food vendors

Breakfast in Ghana is served early in the morning and is easy to miss if you aren't up and out before 7-8am. For those who are up early, get your hands on a cup of rice water, and you're certainly in for a treat. This Ghanaian breakfast food has the consistency of porridge. White rice is usually boiled until it is completely soft and then mixed with sugar and evaporated milk for a filling start to the day. 

Tuo zaafi originated in northern Ghana but many consider it a delicacy throughout the country. Referred to locally as “TZ” or “T-Zed,” the dish gets its name from the Hausa language, translating to “stirring hot,” a reference to its preparation method and flavorful kick. This street-food staple – a daily meal in some households – is a thick porridge made of corn, millet or sorghum, and flour. It is typically served with vegetable soups made with ayoyo (a vegetable leaf) and okra, and meat stews featuring smoked herring, goat or cow meat. In its plated form, TZ is a perfect example of the typical structure of Ghanaian meals – a starch base with sauce or stew and protein. 

Commonly eaten for breakfast or lunch, waakye is a Ghanaian rice and beans dish with dried sorghum leaves or stalks. Like TZ, its origins lie with the Hausa people of northern Ghana, and its significance is traced to other African diaspora staples in South America, the Caribbean, and the American South. Waakye is traditionally served on a banana leaf and paired with an assortment including spaghetti, stew, chopped salad, a boiled egg, and garri. 

Where to try it:

• Rice water can be found along the roadside at any breakfast food stand. Signs are often placed to indicate if the porridge is being served at that particular stand.

• Tuo zaafi is available at most restaurants and food stalls in Ghana. When in Accra, find some of the best TZ at Casa Tomato Restaurant and Cafe.

• Waakye started as a street food item, and you can still find it at street vendors in various Accra suburbs. Several of the previously mentioned restaurants, like Dimaensa and Azmera, also feature one of the country’s most celebrated indigenous dishes on their menus.