Guide to cruising to Glacier Bay National Park

Standing on our whale watching boat, I captured a photo that I’ll always cherish, but not one I’ll necessarily hang on my wall. It’s the moment my family all stood in front of me, watching a whale emerge from the sea, its tail rising into the air before gliding into the deep water below. 

I didn’t get the magic photo of the whale coming out of the sea in front of them, but what I did capture was equally as rare – the moment of amazement from the entire family taking in this extraordinary experience together. 

These are the moments of shared wonder you dream you’ll share with your family when you book a vacation together, and a couple of years ago, this might not have been possible as my mom underwent chemo for cancer. In fact, even a few months prior, I wasn’t entirely sure it would be possible for us to travel together again.

Yet here we were, sharing this magical moment of watching wildlife together during our trip sailing the Inner Passage on Holland America, one of the most popular ways to see Alaska by sea. It's great choice for all travelers but an especially good pick if you’re looking to accommodate a lot of different travel requirements in your group. 

Where does the Inner Passage route go? Does it really visit a national park?

The Inner Passage is probably the most popular way to see Alaska by sea, with lots of big-name cruise lines offering itineraries. The route weaves its way through ports in Alaska on the way to Glacier Bay National Park, the only national park you can see by cruise ship. 

I sailed Holland America’s 7-day Alaska Inside Passage cruise in September, which visited Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan as well as Glacier Bay National Park. What I really love about this particular itinerary is that it offers a truly unique experience to have by way of a cruise ship, as it would be challenging to reach this particular national park any other way. 

The only way to arrive at Glacier Bay National Park is by boat or air or aboard one of the two cruise ships permitted to visit each day. 

How do you visit Glacier Bay National Park if you’re on the ship?

You don’t actually get off the ship when you visit the national park. In fact, the ship never docks. Instead, it cruises the west arm of the bay waters, giving you a chance to see the amazing scenery and wildlife before stopping for a view of a tidewater glacier. 

National Park Service naturalists board the ship to narrate the views and answer questions from guests during hours spent in the bay. My ship stopped for about an hour in front of Margerie Glacier, a spectacular tidewater glacier that's .85 miles wide and 21 miles long. The ice moves 3–7 feet a day, and if you’re lucky, you’ll see the glacier calve (pieces break off and fall into the water below) while your ship is visiting. 

The ship turned at this spot, giving every side of the ship a view of this icy natural wonder. This is the moment when having one of the staterooms with a balcony is ideal, as you can go back and forth between being outside in the chilly weather and warming up for a bit inside. 

If you don’t have a balcony, don’t feel you have to crowd into the upper deck. Go look for other nooks of the ship where you can get a direct view of the glacier as naturalists narrate over the intercom. After we lost sight of the glacier from our balcony, we headed to the dining hall and asked to be seated near the window for a wondrous view as we ate our lunch. 

Should I bring my National Parks Passport?

Absolutely! When naturalists come on the ship, they also bring the cancellation stamp to add to your National Parks Passport. All the ports also have national park historic sites where you can grab cancellation stamps, so make sure to bring your passport with you when you disembark at port as well. 

Who is this cruise for?

Really, this is a great adventure for any type of traveler, but I would say it is an especially great fit for multigenerational trips due to the range of activities available and the boat's accessibility. 

We had a lot of mobility and dietary requirements to factor into our planning. I felt that if there was one place we could test traveling again as a family, it would be on an Alaskan cruise, which eliminates a lot of obstacles that make traveling a challenge. I wouldn’t have to do excessive research into what restaurants could accommodate our needs or what hotels or activities would be accessible. 

Our ship also offered a kids' club and daily activities for teens, making it a great fit for everyone from grandparents to grandchildren. 

What time of year should I go?

The sailing season for Alaska begins in late April and ends in late September. There’s no bad time to go on an Alaska cruise during that window, but what you experience may vary greatly depending on the weather and the migration of animals during that time. You’ll also find better prices at the beginning and end of the season. 

For instance, we traveled in mid-September. It was a touch chillier, requiring light puffer jackets and raincoats, but also the beginning of whales migrating back to the waters of Hawaii and Mexico. One night at dinner, we sat gobsmacked as we watched out the windows of the cruise ship and whales breached against the sunset in the waters surrounding us. I was stunned that the whales would be visible when a cruise ship passed them by, but here they were swimming not far away. 

Choose an Alaska cruise that's right for you and decide which itinerary, ship amenities and time fit you and your group. But you really can’t go wrong, no matter what part of the season you pick. 

What should I book in advance?

Overall, book your cruise early because staterooms with balcony views often book up well before departure. I thought by going at the end of the season, our ship might be less busy, but it was fully booked months in advance. 

If you have a large group, I’d also recommend booking your excursions, spa treatments and dinner reservations at specialty restaurants in advance so you can all stick together. If you wait, your choices may be limited or sold out. 

We found it was a great treat to book some of the specialty restaurants for the days when we were at sea. A lot of people have the same idea, so these reservations fill up well before departure, so make sure you plan ahead. 

Why does the cruise have a stop in Canada? What should I know about visas?

There’s an 1886 law that requires a stop in a foreign port before retuning to the Lower 48 so all Alaskan cruises have a required stop in Canada. If you’re starting your trip in the Lower 48 of the US (Seattle) and are a citizen of one of the 155 countries that are not part of the Visa Wavier program, you’ll need to prepare in advance as you’ll need to apply for a multiple re-entry visa (B-2 Visitor’s Visa).

What do you do on the days at sea?

There’s actually a lot to do on the days at sea. It’s a great time to enjoy all the boat’s amenities like the gym, basketball courts, game rooms, spa, pool and hot tubs. I regretfully only discovered Koningsdam’s spectacular library, with comfy chairs with ocean views, on the last day. If you’re a book nerd who might need a little relief from the buzz of so many people on the ship, it’s a tranquil place to hang out for a bit. 

There’s also a lot of interesting programming – my family and I enjoyed art classes, during which we did an acrylic painting of Alaska’s mountainous landscape, as well as a lecture about the Iditarod. We spent one evening playing Scrabble as we witnessed a golden sunset over the water. Teens and kids also have specific activities – so make sure to check out what your ship offers before booking. 

What should I do at port?

It’s really up to you, your interests, budget and ability level. You can certainly just come into port and have a delightful day walking the town, seeing some museums and historical sites, grabbing a bite to eat or drink and perhaps doing some shopping. 

You can also book an excursion that will take you out for the day. Booking through the cruise line might be a bit more expensive, but these tours work with the cruise line to ensure you get back to your ship in time. (Google “late to cruise ship” and you’ll see videos of people scrambling for their ship!)

I loved all the excursions I did: whale watching, seeing the Mendenhall Glacier, meeting Iditarod puppies and even watching the it’s-so-corny-it’s-actually-amazing lumberjack show. If I had been there in warmer weather, I would have loved to do the Chilkoot Trail hike in Skagway where you hike the iconic trail for a short time before floating back on the river.

What should I pack?

Before you go, check out our advice on what to pack for a cruise overall. But here are some of the things I found particularly useful on this trip. 

My overall advice is to pack layers and prepare for wet weather with umbrellas, rain jackets and some waterproof shoes. 

Obviously, you’ll want your camera or iPhone for picture taking. If you have binoculars, this would be the trip to bring them. You can actually see quite a bit of wildlife from the ship – and you’ll be able to see more if you have your binoculars. 

A lanyard will help you keep track of your keycard. And a small, packable backpack is useful. I took the IKEA Knalla backpack; it’s discontinued but you get the drift – a packable backpack or tote bag for port days. 

For those concerned about their mobility, consider bringing a collapsible walking stick or cane that's easy to throw in a backpack. It can be helpful on uneven surfaces or when you get tired after walking longer distances. And if you don't need it, its really easy to pack away. 

A lot of what you need is provided on the ship, including blankets to sit out on the deck.

Melissa traveled the Inner Passage of Alaska on invitation of Holland America cruise line. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.