5 great day trips from Luang Prabang in Laos

Sep 6, 2020

5 MIN READ

Karst mountains, Vang Vieng, Laos
Kalpana Sunder

Writer

India

I am an independent journalist based in Chennai, India. I write on travel, gender, development, conservation, environment, pop culture, food, art and architecture. My life-changing trip was in 2001 when I traveled through Japan on a Japan Foundation Scholarship. Since then I have had a cooking lesson in a medieval kitchen in Avignon; flown over the Victoria Falls in a microlight, snowmobiled in Lapland, walked with the lions in Zimbabwe and floated on the Dead Sea in my search for a good travel …

The orange earth, the fragrance of frangipani, and the blue skies, the city of Luang Prabang flanked by two rivers, the Mekong and the Nam Khan, feels like a time warp in many ways. The main street Sisavangvong is lined with wooden shophouses, that are souvenir shops, and cafes, low- rise colonial buildings and wats or temples. But there is more to Laos, than just Luang Prabang.

And you can get a taste of this world, by just taking a short day trip, with a local company called Tiger Trails, which arranged these tours from Luang Prabang.

Water therapy at Kouang si

Tiers of a cascading waterfall from the top of the rock face cut through the layers of stone like a razor and form little pools. Though most of the photos that I had seen of the waterfalls were a lovely shade of turquoise, unfortunately in the last few days, the water has turned muddy, because of the heavy rains. As we walk on the wooden walkways and explore the various levels, walking through thick tropical greenery, colourful butterflies flit above our heads.

Groups of locals with picnic baskets climb up and down the various levels, many clambering on top of rocks, some swinging from ropes and trees, others jumping into the pools for a quick swim. Kouang Si waterfalls, just a half an hour drive from the capital city of Luang Prabang is a popular day trip. It’s a therapeutic place to spend a couple of hours and have a picnic and swim.

A stage with musical instruments illuminated in blue
Patti Smith stage set up. Virginia DiGaetano for Lonely Planet (2)

Do take a look at the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, a small sanctuary for Asiatic black bears which are an endangered species. Many are illegally hunted and kept in cages for their bile, which is used in Chinese medicines.

Spend time at the Pak Ou caves

We drive further on muddy roads through the emerald green paddy fields passing via rustic villages to reach the meandering Mekong River. From here we get into long traditional boats to reach the Pak Ou caves that are limestone caves overlooking the river, accessed by a steep flight of stairs with caves at two levels.

Pak Ou caves overlooks the river and is drive away from Luang Prabang city ©Kalpana Sunder
Pak Ou caves overlooks the river and is drive away from Luang Prabang city ©Kalpana Sunder

These caves on a vertical cliff have been used by locals from neighbouring villages to deposit old statues of the Buddha from homes and altars which have either been damaged or are no longer in use because of newer statues. As I huff and puff my way up, I stop at various points getting views of the surrounding landscape looking at small shops selling local art and Buddha images painted on seashells; fortune-tellers and coconut water vendors.

The caves are lined up with hundreds of Buddha statues ©Kalpana Sunder
The caves are lined up with hundreds of Buddha statues ©Kalpana Sunder

As we reach the top and enter a cavernous space, lined with hundreds of Buddha statues, many shrouded with cobwebs and dust. It’s an eerie moment as we see the bevy of statues- some with limbs broken, others damaged by fire and termite holes. It’s a bewitching space still managing to be meditative and quiet. Our guide explains that on New Year’s Day every year, the locals make the upriver pilgrimage, to bathe the Buddha statues and earn merit.

Visit the paper village

Books made of papers from mulberry bark in the paper village few kilometers away from Luang Prabang ©Kalpana Sunder
Books made of papers from mulberry bark in the paper village few kilometers away from Luang Prabang ©Kalpana Sunder

On the outskirts of Luang Prabang are a cluster of villages that specialise in mulberry paper making. We visit Ban Xieng Lek where we see how saa paper is made from fast-growing mulberry bark, naturally shed by the tree. The bark is soaked in water and boiled to make the pulp and spread it over a thin screen and swirl it around before the screen is lifted and drained. Pressed flowers and leaves can be added to the sheet for decoration before it’s left out in the sun to dry. Locals make beautiful sheets of paper, lamps, boxes, gift bags and books out of this paper. Don’t forget to pick up some gifts while you are here.

Get a feel of Laotian country life

Enroute to the caves and the waterfalls a great stop is the Laos Buffalo Dairy, a socially responsible and sustainable farm run by two families from Singapore who decided to relocate to Laos and start a social enterprise. They also have a small café and serve the most delicious ice cream. From producing a wide array of artisanal cheeses- mozzarella to blue cheese and feta, you can also get up- close with farm animals and buffaloes, or even learn how to milk a buffalo. By paying for the tour here, you are helping support local farmers, veterinary care, and breeding program to revitalize the local buffalo genetics.

Have a sip of Lao Lao

Lao- Lao is the local tipple- rice whisky that’s made in Ban Xang Hai also called the Whiskey Village which is four miles from the Pak Ou caves. This strong whisky is fermented and sold in bottles. They usually take a tour showing you the traditional manufacturing process using open fires and large earthen jars. Lao- Lao is used by the locals during ceremonies for blessing, and tourists are often offered a shot when on a village visit.

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