The most appealing feature of Orchha is its skyline that is punctuated by the domes and shikharas of palaces and temples bearing testimony to the architectural grandeur of the Bundela dynasty.
As one strolls around the buzzing streets of the medieval town of Orchha in Madhya Pradesh they are certain to come across saffron-robed sadhus, warning honk from vehicles, shops selling Dokra handicraft, Indian sweetmeats and savories, Gond artists sitting on the streets and filling the outline of the Gond paintings with the characteristic dots and lines among others.
Situated on the left bank of the Betwa River, the town of Orchha was founded in the 16th century CE by the Bundela chief Rudra Pratap Singh, who became the first King of Orchha. The shift of capital from GarhKunder to Orchha was initiated by his son Bharti Chand as the site was a better place to fortify against growing Mughal pressure.
While Bundela's style of architecture saw its inception with the majestic Orchha Fort which was built by Rudra Pratap, it reached its peak under Bir Singh Deo’s reign. The Bundela style architecture is a striking blend of Rajput architecture and Mughal designs. The Orchha Palace fort is heavily fortified with over 15 rounded bastions and three entrances. The fort complex consists of several connected structures that were erected over a period of time. The most remarkable among them are the Raja Mahal, Jehangir Mahal, and Rai Parveen Mahal.
Built in the early 16th century CE, Raja Mahal is the oldest among them. It served as a residence for the Kings and Queens till the latter half of 18th century CE. The Raja Mahal consists of two courtyards. The rooms, halls, and the verandah of the Mahal behold the most beautiful murals in earthy tones and black. They are themed around mythological stories, day-to-day life, hunting scenes, flora, and fauna inspired by their natural surroundings. The openings of the rooms are adorned with meticulous jali (latticework) work. The roof houses slender pillars that are surmounted by domed kiosks.
As per popular belief, the Jahangir Mahal was built by Bir Singh Deo exclusively for Jehangir, the guest of the Maharaja for one night. It was built as a symbol of warm reception to the emperor. The intricately carved entrance of the palace is flanked by elephants placed in jharokhas. The outer wall still holds traces of lapis lazuli and turquoise that had once adorned the palace. The most striking feature of the palace is the beautiful lattice screens, sculptures carved on the brackets, and rooms with painted murals. The huge square courtyard of the structure houses a water tank and a central fountain, with four small fountains in each corner. The roof like the Raja Mahal comprises over eight domed pavilions adding to the beauty of the structure.
Rai Parveen Mahal is a palace dedicated to Rai Parveen, a beautiful courtesan, poet, and musician at the princely court of Raja Indrajeet. The palace houses beautiful paintings mostly in grey and black colours. The paintings in the second storey showcase the different dance mudras of Rai Parveen with her slaves. Besides being a favourite there, she was also an inspiration for the famous Brajbhasha poet Keshavdas’ poetry. In the evening soirees that were presided by Raja Indrajit, Keshavdas would recite a verse from his famous Rasikapriya to which Parveen danced and the audience applauded.
Ram Raja Mandir was initially a part of the Royal fort which was later converted into a temple. It houses a unique idol of Lord Rama. As per legends, Rani Ganesh Kunwar the wife of Madhukar Shah is said to have brought the statue from the Saryu river of Ayodhya. This idol was to be installed at the Chaturbhuj Temple. However, since the temple was under construction, she temporarily placed it at the Rani Mahal. Ram Raja Mandir is the only temple in India where Lord Rama is worshipped as a king.
Chaturbhuj Temple dominates the landscape of Orchha. It is an imposing structure built on a massive plinth which is accessed by a steep flight of steps. The temple is surmounted by six spires of varying heights (taller than any of the palace domes) that add to the majestic grandeur of the structure. The temple provides a spectacular view of the palace fort. Today, the temple houses the idols of Radha and Krishna.
Lakshmi Narayan Temple was built by Bir Singh Deo and later renovated by Prithvi Singh. The structure is a fusion of a fort and a temple. The slots for cannons and the bastions give it a distinctive fort-like appearance. The interiors of the temple are adorned with beautiful murals featuring both secular and mythological depictions. In addition to this, historic events such as the famous battle of Jhansi have been portrayed too.
Nestled closely on the banks of River Betwa at Kanchana Ghat are the spectacular chattris or cenotaphs constructed in memory of the Maharajas of Orchha. Built-in a single compound, they are 14 in number. All the chhatris bear a resemblance to one another. The plan includes a three-storied building with windows constructed on elevated platforms. However, the chattri of Bir Singh Deo that is nearest to the river stands out owing to its massive pillars and excellence. The structure speaks volumes of the King’s supreme past. These Chhatris are best observed from the Betwa River by a raft ride.
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