5 of the best food and drink experiences in Burgundy, France

Bucolic Burgundy, a region in central France, is the perfect setting for a food-focused vacation. Drive through some of the world’s most expensive vineyards, stay in little towns that are home to two-Michelin-star restaurants or follow the roadside signs – and your stomach – to find small producers where you can taste and buy food and drink directly from the source. Here are the region's best food and drink experiences.

1. Explore the world-famous wine scene

Burgundy has long been a byword for quality among wine lovers around the world. Its relative scarcity (it produces under 3% of total wines in France whereas its nearest comparison – Bordeaux – is close to 15%), small-wine producers and tricky-to-get-right wine varieties, means prices have climbed to sometimes astronomical heights. The only way to see if the price equals quality is, of course, to try for yourself and stocking up in the region is the best way to get value for your money.

A wine tasting is the perfect way to explore the local grape varieties, get an account of the intriguing history of Burgundian wine production and select some nice bottles. In Dijon, La Cave du Palais hosts daily wine tastings in its 15th-century wine cellar where you can get an introduction to six varieties for €39 per person. In Beaune, the bright and airy Cave d'Elisée offers a stark contrast in ambiance with tastings starting from €13. It also offers private tours of the surrounding vineyards. 

2. Taste blackcurrant in all its forms

Burgundy’s terroir is not just good for grapes; it also produces wonderful blackcurrants and inspires a wealth of creative ways to use it. Make your first aperitif in Burgundy a Kir; either the original Kir which is white wine mixed with crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur) or the more famous Kir Royal, which uses champagne instead.

For a deep dive, visit Le Cassissium in Nuits-St-Georges, a family-friendly interactive museum and factory. Tours are available in English (€12) but for a full experience, consider the "Cassis to the Fullest" experience (€36) which includes the tour, tastings, a seasonal cocktail and a selection of local dishes enhanced with creative uses of blackcurrant. I brought a jar of blackcurrant ketchup home to accompany my summer charcuterie boards.

3. Spice up your cooking with mustard

Dijon is synonymous with mustard and, if you are exploring the city, the famous La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot has a small Willy Wonka-style shop where you can try all its unusual mustard varieties at the "mustard bar" (I recommend the paprika and honey) and buy small tester pots to bring home for as little as €1. 

For the full experience however, you need to go to Beaune and take the full factory tour. Learn the journey of mustard from seed to jar and the traditional method of grinding seeds on the mill. A visit to the modern factory floor will make your eyes water (literally – the Burgundians like their mustard hot). 

4. Stay in a foodie-themed hotel

The gourmet lifestyle doesn’t need to stop when you check in. The boutique Hotel du Palais in Dijon has all nine bedrooms decorated in different colors of the Burgundian palette like blackcurrant, truffle, chardonnay and mustard. Rooms start at €120.

For a treat, the 5-star Maison Doucet in Charolles is owned by chef Frédéric Doucet and is also home to his two-Michelin-star restaurant (as well as a spa and outdoor swimming pool). The dining experience kicks off with a welcome tasting experience in the kitchen with the chef himself and the highlight is, of course, the local Charolais beef (Chef Doucet is very keen to inform you he knows both the farmer and the cow’s age). For a more affordable meal, the chef’s Bistrot du Quai is on the corner. Rooms start from around €215.

Beaune’s charming Hôtel de la Poste is within easy reach of the town’s famous restaurants with a wood-panelled bar that's perfect for a nightcap. Rooms start at €160.

5. Eat the best local delicacies

Last but not least, what should you order when you are in Burgundy? All good French restaurants serve fresh local produce so it pays to do a bit of research about what to expect for each season. 

Of course, boeuf bourgignon and coq au vin are timeless classics, though they may feel a little heavy in the warmer spring and summer months, and are available widely throughout France and worldwide. For a wine dish that is a little lighter and more local, try oeufs en meurette, eggs poached in red wine sauce. Beaune’s Loiseau des Vignes regularly has an excellent version on its menu.

Don’t leave the region before tasting the AOC-protected Bresse chicken, who live by strict rules – they have a good diet, at least 10 sq m of roaming space each, and spend most of their lives outdoors – producing a deeper, slightly gamier flavor. It's worth making a stop in St-Germain-du-Bois to visit Hostellerie Bressane where the dish is cooked with wine and Comté cheese.

If you’re lucky, gougères will pop up at wine tasting or with your aperitif; the mix of light choux pastry and Comté cheese go perfectly with the sharpness of Burgundian white wines. 

On the sweeter side, nonnettes are made with dough spiced with aniseed and can be filled with chocolate or different fruit jams. You’ll find the widest variety in any of the Mulot & Petitjean shops in Dijon, along with the traditional pain d’épices. 

How to get to Burgundy

If you’re finding your way to Burgundy on public transportation, flying into Paris will give you the most options. Several high speed trains leave Gare de Lyon everyday, arriving in Dijon in 1 hour and 40 minutes. Flying into Charles de Gaulle, I spent a night in the affordable H4 Wyndham Paris Pleyel in Saint-Denis, which is just 25 minutes away from Gare de Lyon on public transport, and arrived rested for my trip around the region after spending an evening with a cocktail watching the Eiffel Tower from the rooftop bar.

If you’re spending more time in the southern part of the region – or have your own wheels – Lyon airport may be a more convenient option; it’s about an hour away from the southern side of the region and 2 hours from Dijon by car.

Annemarie visited Burgundy with Atout France. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.