The ultimate 10-days in Luzon, the Philippines

Some of us are beach people, some like mountains and forests. In Luzon, the Philippines’ main island, you can have an action-packed trip that covers both. The mountains of Luzon delight inland explorers with rice terraces and trekking, and you can bookend your trip with stops at two of the island's most famous beaches, both of which are prime surf spots. Plan your tour with this 10-day itinerary through Luzon, beginning in Clark and ending in the surf town of Baler. Perhaps you are not a DIY traveler and would prefer to let the on-the-ground travel experts at Lonely Planet Journeys book it for you. They've created an ideal itinerary that will take you places you could never have found on your own.

Where to start: Fly into Clark Freeport Zone, Central Luzon’s rising business hub to start your sojourn.
Getting from the airport: Blue metered taxis wait just outside the arrivals area and cost about P250 within the Freeport Zone and about P300 to Angeles or the Mabalacat bus terminal. There is also the Clark Loop, a cashless bus system that connects the airport with Clark Freeport Zone and Pampanga.
Where to stay: We recommend the Park Inn by Radisson Clark for a budget-friendly option, or the Swissôtel Clark for a high-end choice.
Where to eat: Make a reservation to sample a curated Kapampangan dinner at Bale Dutung in Angeles City, about 20 minutes outside of Clark. You could also head to Consuelo inside Clark Freeport Zone. Then get a good night’s rest. Alternatively, if you're feeling the need to go out, check out the Angeles City Facebook page for events, happenings and things to do.
Getting from place to place: The roads around North Luzon are steep, windy and in various stages of repair. There are regular buses and jeepneys between destinations, as well as the option to hire a car and driver. The former will be more budget-friendly, while the latter allows you to stop when you want to snap photos or stretch your legs. Cars and drivers can be arranged through most accommodations.

Day 1: Mt Pinatubo and San Juan

Morning 

Get up before dawn to ascend the moonlike Mt Pinatubo, whose eruption shook the world in 1991. Make your way to the starting point in Capas, about an hour north of Clark by car. From here, it’s a thrilling 1-hour journey across rugged lahar fields, river crossings and through lunar-like terrain. Once the road ends, you walk the final 45 minutes to the crater lake. It’s possible to walk the whole way up with a guide, but the 4WD trip really is thrilling. Treks are carefully scheduled and must depart between 6am and 8am. However, sometimes schedules may be adjusted to 5am to 7am. Group trips can be arranged from Angeles City, or contact Alvin & Angie Mt Pinatubo Guesthouse (0919 861 4102), who can connect you with other people to share costs. Alternatively, you can contact the Capas Tourism Office (+63 962 153 1184), the official body that manages the Mt. Pinatubo Trekking Adventure. They can connect you with accredited guides. Your trip will include lunch.

Top tip: Note that if you want to do this experience foreign nationals must secure a visit clearance which usually takes some 30 days to process. You'll need to submit a clear photocopy of your passport to secure your clearance.

Afternoon

You’ll likely be exhausted and exhilarated and ready to make your way to the unassuming San Juan, 4 hours and 30 minutes away by bus. Known as La Union to the surfers, San Juan has a laid-back surf scene with hostels and food courts catering mostly to shoe-string travelers, which is all the fun. Book 2 nights at Kahel Resort. This high-end resort is steps from the water and offers board rentals and surf lessons. 

Dinner

Kahel Resort is the best meal in town. Enjoy signature cocktails with a mix of western and Filipino specialties.

Day 2: San Juan

Morning

Grab a coffee at El Union before your surf lesson in Urbiztondo with La Union Surf School. The sandy ocean floor at this break will let you splash and fall without the pesky (or painful) risk of hitting a reef or getting an urchin in your eye. If you’re an intermediate and want to get out on the water, just to the north is a good point break. You can find all you need in terms of board rentals, wax and leashes at the beachside rental shacks. 

How to spend the day

On the beach, of course. After your surf lesson grab a bite at Angel & Marie’s place. Try local specialties like pinakbét (a vegetable stew). Alternatively you can try El Navi Bisin Buffet or Clean Beach.

Dinner

It's a roadside shack kind of evening. Check out casual, wonderful Marasa Bulaluhan for delicious, homemade Filipino dishes with plenty of variety. 

Day 3: a day trip to Vigan

Morning

You could spend another day at the beach or you could take a day trip to Vigan City, or just Vigan to those in-the-know. About 2 hours and 30 minutes away by car, this is UNESCO-listed for good reason: it's one of the oldest cities in the Philippines, with beautiful cobblestone streets and lots of protected buildings made of weathered wood and unmistakable Spanish Colonial influences. The Mestizo District is the prime attraction for architecture and historic buildings, it's a maze of alleys and streets that starts at Plaza Burgos and runs south on Liberation Blvd. 

How to spend the afternoon

Grab a coffee and a snack from Marsha’s Delicacies before exploring the Ilocos Regional Museum Complex which brings to life Vigan City circa the late 1800s. Among the collection's offerings you’ll find interesting explanations of basi (the Ilocono liquor) and wooden sugarcane presses. Return to San Juan for dinner.

Day 4: San Juan to Baguio

Morning

Check out of the lovely Kahel and head 60km straight up the hill to Baguio, about 2 hours away by bus. This is the gateway to the Cordillera Mountains. Book a night or two at the Bloomfield Hotel. It's a bit upscale with suites worth splurging for and its central location will have you close to all you want to do. If you’ve left early and skipped breakfast, try Cafe by the Ruins for mouth-watering cinnamon rolls and or Cordilleran dishes.

How to spend the day

Baguio is wildly hilly, a fireworks display of colors, lights, activities and fun. It's also charming and welcoming. Get acquainted with the history and culture of North Luzon at Museo Kordilyera on the University of the Philippines campus. Nearby is the Baguio Museum, also worth a visit for a deeper understanding of the cultures of the Cordillera. 

Top tip: If you’re traveling by hire car, leave it parked while in Baguio where the traffic is challenging for newcomers. Jeepneys are ubiquitous and cheap and taxis are plentiful. 

Dinner

Dinners at Volante or Good Taste are both great options for dinner.

After dark

Baguio has great nightlife. The Vérvé Music Lounge is a chill spot to chat with friends, meet new people, or take your turn at karaoke. And if you’re ready to move, Spade has two levels with the entire 1st floor dedicated to dancing. 

Detour

If you want to add an extra day, take a bus from Baguio 50km north to picturesque Kabayan, the site of several caves containing eerie mummies entombed centuries ago by the Ibaloi people. 

Day 5: Baguio to Sagada

Morning

Grab a coffee from Hot Cat and check out the upstairs book shop before making your way to Sagada about 5-6 hours by car from Baguio. High up in the mountains of the Cordillera, Sagada is an off-the-beaten-track dream. 

How to spend the day

In Sagada, check in to Masferré Inn & Restaurant, which is top notch in Sagada. It is decorated with beautiful photography from the late owner and the rooms lookout at the mountainsides. Head to the Tourist Information Center to line up guides for the things you want to do. There is an incredible cave system in Sagada and you’ll find adventures that are pretty easy through to crazy, hair-raising hard, so pick one to match your level of expertise. Sumaguing Cave and Balangagan Cave are great places to start. If spelunking isn’t your thing, trek to the nearby waterfalls and swimming pools like Obwa Falls, Pongas Falls, Bokong Falls and Bomod-ok Falls. The trails aren’t too strenuous and the swimming holes are totally worth it. 

Dinner

Gaia Cafe is a cozy mountain coffee shop with vegan and vegetarian options open until 7pm.

Day 6: Sagada

Morning 

The best spot for coffee with homemade cakes and pastries is Sagada Brew. You can also get a western breakfast if you so desire. 

How to spend the day

If you haven’t had your hiking fill, it's worth hiring a guide to take you to the Blue Soil Hills. High concentrations of copper in the soil have turned it a stunning blue-green color. The hike is a fairly strenuous uphill about 30–45 minutes from the trail head, but it's as rewarding as the destination with beautiful views of the pine-covered slopes and many wildflowers along the way. Ask your guide to point out the native pitcher plants that line part of the trail. Note you won’t be able to walk on the hills themselves to prevent erosion, but you’ll have an excellent view of the turquoise hills. About halfway up there are some vendors selling drinks snacks and souvenirs.

Dinner

Settle in for dinner and a quiet night at Masferré Inn & Restaurant.

Days 7 and 8: Banaue and Batad

Plan to spend 2 days exploring in Banaue and Batad, about 3 hours from Sagada by bus. Book a room at Sanafe Lodge & Restaurants, with views of the rice terraces.

How to spend the day

The incredible rice terraces of Ifugao are, for many, the whole reason to come to North Luzon. Hewn into verdant, impossibly steep cliffs, they stretch out around you like an amphiteather, making for jaw-dropping vistas. The hardest part is choosing which one to see. Book your guide ahead of time through the Banaue Municipal Tourist Information Center.

Each of the terraces are incredibly special and five are UNESCO inscribed: Batad, Bangaan, Hungduan, Nagacadan and Mayoyao. If you like hiking you’ll love Batad. It's a challenging day, but the rewards are exploring a region that visitors to the Cordillera rarely take the time to see. You’ll hike through stunning terraces to roaring waterfalls and bucolic villages.

Dinner

Arrange your meals through your guesthouse. Sanafe Lodge & Restaurants serves a great curry with rice and Hillside Inn does an excellent shakshuka.

Day 9: Baler

Morning

Make your way to Baler, 7 hours from Banaue by car, for the last couple days of your trip. This little surf town is prime for a low-key vacation vibe. It's the type of place that seems a bit on the quiet side, yet that's a compliment, an honor. There is also a variety of historical sites to see like the historic Baler Church, Doña Aurora House or Quezon Park. Book a room at one of the beachside resorts to fully enjoy your time.

How to spend the day

If you didn’t try surfing in San Juan, here is your chance. Baler is the perfect place to learn or just to get out on the water if you already have the skills. It is the birthplace of the Philippine surfing scene after all. The beach break is vast, a beautiful curve so gentle that you’d need to drive for 30 minutes to go from one end to the other. The soft sand and relaxed vibe make this a great spot for lessons. 

Dinner

Try the popular and centrally located Yellow Fin Bar & Grill, which has a great variety of Filipino dishes. You may find it hard not to share your meal with one of the many cats looking for handouts. 

Day 10

Morning

Have a coffee by the beach at Playa Azul Baler, Bay's Inn or Aliya Surf Camp – it just tastes better when you look out and see the view. From Baler, make your way back to Clark, which is about a 3.5-hour drive, or to Manila, a 4-hour drive or 6 hours by bus.