The best destination for independent travellers in Kamchatka, Esso is set snug in a valley of green mountains, with a network of well-mapped hiking trails extending into the surrounding Bystrinsky Nature Park, plus hot-spring pools in town and rafting and horse-riding options nearby. It’s a quiet, lovely place with the scent of pine, and locals who live in picturesque wooden cottages. Indeed, hardened Russia hands...
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