Climb the rickety wooden staircase to this Communist-themed, folk restaurant where the Dongbei beer and food flow freely courtesy of waitresses in Red-Guard regalia. The low-lit, private, nonsmoking rooms feel like dens for hosting counter-surveillance meetings. There's even a spicy fish dish named 'Cultural Revolution' (文化大革命, Wénhuà Dàgémìng), but otherwise expect the more proletarian northern Chinese fare.
Dongbei food is notoriously meaty, but vegetarians won't go wrong with an order of 'big harvest' (大丰收; dà fēngshōu) – a basket of raw veggies, salad, tofu sheets and dipping sauces. Picture menu available.