Lord of all it surveys, Victoria Peak is Hong Kong Island's top attraction – in every sense of the word. Reached by the gravity-defying Peak Tram, the prize for ascending is one of the world's greatest views: a jungle-framed panorama of soaring skyscrapers and sapphire-blue sea. Consider making two trips if you have time: many find the night view even more spectacular.
Tram to the Top
Departing every 15 minutes from its base station on Garden Rd in Central, the Peak Tram seems to defy gravity, climbing steeply upward to reveal dizzying glimpses of the harbor over the course of its six-minute ascent. The tram runs both ways from 7.30am to 11.30pm (HK$88 for a return ticket, HK$108 on weekends and holidays).
On arrival at the upper terminus, you're herded through souvenir shops and up escalators to Sky Terrace 428. A paid attraction atop the anvil-shaped Peak Tower (so named because it stands at 428m above sea level), it is worth it for the unimpeded vistas of Victoria Harbour, but if you'd rather sidestep the tourist conveyer, save your money and head outside – you'll get almost as good a view for free from the Lions View Point Pavilion nearby.
For kids, Sky Terrace 428 is home to family attractions including Madame Tussauds. Opposite is The Peak Galleria mall. Your best bet is to leave the commercialism behind and strike out on the lovely Peak Circle Walk, a mostly flat, 3.5km loop along Harlech Rd and Ludgard Rd that takes about an hour.
Hiking up on the Morning Trail
One of the most memorable ways to reach Victoria Peak is by hiking the 2.8km Morning Trail, with its trailhead at the intersection of Hatton Rd and Po Shan Rd. Unlike the touristy Peak Tram, the Morning Trail slots you in among Hong Kongers – dog walkers, joggers, amblers, folks doing taichi. Passing through Lung Fu Shan Country Park, it’s also a nature walk that climbs upwards under a dappled canopy of Indian rubber trees and past banyans, gordonias with their yellow and white flowers like fried eggs, the occasional orchid, and a host of birdlife and butterflies. Be sure to check out Pinewood Battery en route. The battery comprises the ruins of an extensive British military site, consisting of barracks, stores and gun emplacements.
A Potted History of Peak Living
The cooler climes and elevated outlook of Victoria Peak quickly made it the desired summer address for Hong Kong's early colonial elite, especially after bubonic plague tore through the overcrowded, mostly Chinese settlements along the harborfront. One by one, the senior officials and taipans (chief executives) of Hong Kong's trading companies built lavish residences up top and were commuted up and down in sedan chairs by teams of Chinese carriers. When the Peak Tram opened in 1888, living the highlife became the goal of all social climbers, but up until the end of World War II, the Chinese (except for servants) were barred from residing on Victoria Peak by official ordinance.
The first tramcars were made of varnished wood with room for 40 passengers. During the first half of the 20th century, the tram’s two front seats were reserved for the governor and only made available to other passengers two minutes before each departure. Back in the day, if you drank one too many sherries at a shindig on the Peak and missed the last tram down, you could order yourself a private tram at any time up to 3am.
More Trails From the Peak
To the west of Victoria Peak is High West (494m), a mountain offering wonderful views with a fraction of the crowds. Take the path from the junction of Hatton, Harlech and Lugard Rds. It’s a steep climb and a 90-minute round trip.
You can also hike down to Pok Fu Lam Reservoir or descend to Central via two different paths, one which passes through the Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens and another that follows the Tramway Path. Download the free "Hiking Trail HK" smartphone app for GPS-assisted route guides.
