This stylish Michelin-starred establishment, with white tablecloths, paper-thin wine glasses and fine porcelain, focuses on fish, most of it landed a few blocks away on quai Gambetta. Chef Tony Lestienne's specialities include Breton lobster salad, sole with watercress velouté and sea bass with anchovy mousse, but there are also land-based dishes such as hazelnut-crusted lamb with olive-and-mint purée.
It's inside the luxurious Hôtel La Matelote; tables are set up on the pavement in summer.