One of southern Peru’s finest protected reserves, Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca (S40) is a vast Andean expanse of dozing volcanoes and brawny wildlife forging out an existence against the odds several kilometers above sea level. Head up to an oxygen-deprived 4910m where, in between light-headed gasps for air, you can ponder weird wind-eroded rock formations, trek on old Inca trails and watch fleet-footed vicuñas (threatened, wild relatives of alpacas) run across the desolate pampa at speeds of up to 85km/h.
As a national reserve, Salinas y Aguada Blanca enjoys better protection than the Colca Canyon, primarily because no one lives here bar the odd llama-herder – and a rich variety of high-altitude species such as vicuñas, South Andean deer, guanacos and various birds, most notably flamingos. Both the El Misti and Chachani volcanoes are part of the reserve.
A small forest at the reserve's entrance is where you can see scrubby yareta, one of the few plants that can survive in this harsh landscape. Yaretas can live for several millennia (most here are more than 3000 years old), and their annual growth rate is measured in millimeters rather than centimeters. Ancient societies used them for fuel.
During the rainy season, the landscape turns into reflective pools that rival the famous Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia.
The terrain is rugged, so having a guide or joining a tour is recommended. Carlos Zárate Adventures has a great tour option. One popular stop is Mirador de los Andes, which offers a panoramic view of the volcanoes. Another is Pampa de Toccra , a nature reserve on a high plain that lies between El Misti, Chachani and the Colca Canyon. It has an average elevation of about 4300m and supports plentiful bird and animal life. You’re almost certain to see vicuñas roadside.
The highest point on the road between Arequipa and Chivay is Paso de Patopampa at 4910m. If your red blood cells are up to it, disembark into the rarefied air at the Mirador de los Volcanes to view a muscular consortium of eight snowcapped volcanoes: Ubinas (5675m), El Misti (5822m), Chachani (6075m), Ampato (6288m), Sabancaya (5976m), Huaca Huaca (6025m), Mismi (5597m) and Chucura (5360m).
