What to eat and drink in Ireland

A new generation of talented chefs is putting Ireland on the gourmet map, taking advantage of fresh, high-quality produce grown on their doorsteps. From nourishing pub grub to Michelin-starred dining, there’s something to suit every budget.

As an island nation, Ireland also has an abundance of the freshest fish and seafood that’s best enjoyed in dining rooms overlooking the ocean. The country has also experienced a coffee revolution in recent years, with dedicated independent coffee shops and talented baristas making their homes in towns and villages all over the country. And as the proud home of Guinness, there’s nowhere better for a pint of plain. This is everything you need to know about what to eat and drink in Ireland.

Feast on local seafood along Ireland’s Atlantic Coast

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way isn’t just a feast for the eyes; the coastal route also offers some of the most idyllic spots to eat fresh seafood. The catch of the day might include lobster, scallops, crab or haddock and options range from casual pier-side takeaways to fine-dining restaurants with jaw-dropping sea views. 

Where to try it: The Olde Glen Bar in County Donegal serves the freshest catch, where chef Ciarán Sweeney has been at the forefront of the county’s food revolution. Options range from roast Donegal Bay scallops and Killybegs monkfish tail. Oyster lovers should be sure to stop in Moran’s Oyster Cottage, a 300-year-old bar and seafood restaurant in Kilcolgan, County Galway, where the freshest molluscs are served.

Take in the views of Galway Bay while you watch the boats fishing for shellfish that can be served straight to your table at Linnane’s Lobster Bar in Newquay, County Clare. The chargrilled sardines with pickled celery and blood orange make for a punchy lunch. For a fish-and-chips supper you’ll never forget, try the Seafood Shack in Killybegs.

Yes, Guinness really does taste better in Ireland 

It has long been said that a pint of plain tastes better in Ireland than anywhere else, and now there’s scientific proof. An international taste survey carried out on behalf of the Institute of Food Technologists found that tasters enjoyed pints of the black stuff better in Ireland than in any other country. When in Dublin, it would be rude not to have a pint of Guinness. It’s almost a rite of passage to order at the bar and wait for the drink to settle before your perfect pint is topped up with its creamy head. 

Where to try it: Just off Grafton Street, Grogan’s is a Dublin institution, and there's no better spot for people watching from its outdoor area on a sunny day. On the north side of the city, John Kavanagh’s – better known as The Gravediggers – is built into the walls of Glasnevin Cemetery, close to the National Botanic Gardens; this is the epitome of old school bars. Tucked away on Dame Lane, The Stag’s Head attracts everyone from musicians to students, while Kehoe’s on South Anne Street is often so busy that people spill onto the street outside to continue their conversations.

Dairy with a difference 

Ask Irish people what food they can’t live without, and they’ll tell you it’s dairy: milk, butter and cheese. The green expanses of the Emerald Isle make it perfect for grazing cattle, sheep and goats, which in turn make the most richly indulgent dairy products. From Tipperary’s Cashel Blue to Cork’s Gubbeen, these are products that taste like the land that made them. 

Where to try it: Sheridan’s Cheesemongers is an Irish institution with outlets throughout the country. At their South Anne Street store, just off Grafton Street, you can taste test before you buy. As well as serving Cloud Picker coffee, excellent wines and Spanish charcuterie, you can create your own personalised cheese board at The Blue Goat in Ramelton, County Donegal. From Friday to Sunday, step into St George’s Market to get a sense of Belfast’s buzzing food scene, including locally grown organic fruit and veg, and meat and cheese from nearby farms. At the family dairy farm in Carrigans, County Donegal, where they milk 450 cows, Shannon Porter set up The Milk Bar, which features a farm shop, a milk vending machine and ice cream. First opened in 1788, Cork city’s English Market has the usual fish, meat, fruit and veg stalls as well as some well-stocked cheese counters. 

Treat yourself to a steak dinner in a fine dining restaurant

With lush green pasture and traceable farming practices, Irish beef is among the best in the world, and the country’s top chefs are making the most of the bountiful local beef, creating carefully designed tasting menus, shared plates and delicious mains with excellent wine pairings.

Where to try it: At Mulcahy’s restaurant in Kenmare, County Kerry, the signature beef wellington dish or the surf and turf with sirloin or rump steak and Kenmare prawns always go down well. Celebrity chef Neven Maguire’s Cavan-based restaurant, MacNean House & Restaurant, is a bucket-list destination for a foodie break. Splash out on the Prestige Menu, which changes seasonally but features a wide array of local produce, with excellent wine pairings. A favourite among foodie folk, Cork’s The Glass Curtain, with its elegant and relaxed atmosphere, is perfect for a special evening, and Chef Brian Murray’s sharing-style dishes are best for a group: sharing steaks, whole fish, and clever, seasonal small plates. In Derry City, at Brown’s Bonds Hill, Chef Ian Orr and his team serve Inishowen grass-fed beef with beef ragu potato terrine.

A nation of coffee addicts

Ireland’s coffee game has exploded in recent years, with a new generation of baristas taking their caffeine creations very seriously. Whether it’s a double espresso in the morning or a frothy latte on the go, you’ll find plenty to keep you caffeinated.

Where to try it: With its science lab vibe, the simple menu at Proper Order Coffee Co in Dublin’s Smithfield means business when it comes to coffee. Stop for a quick brew and a spot of people watching at Kaph on Drury Street. When out west, try Rover Coffee Lab and roastery on Sligo’s O’Connell Street or brú in Castlebar, County Mayo, which is also famous for its doorstop sandwiches.

Follow your taste buds and eat like a local

Whether it’s trying some traditional stew or boxty, a starchy potato cake made with a half-and-half mix of cooked mashed potatoes and grated, strained raw potatoes, taking a slow food tour or trying some edible seaweed, let your senses be your guide. The tradition of the Waterford Blaa – a fluffy, large bread roll – dates back to the 17th century when the Hugenots arrived, and it’s a must when you visit the city. Donegal’s frothy vanilla-tasting soft drink, Football Special, is a rite of passage for visitors to the county.

Where to try it: Sample traditional Irish lamb stew at the Farmgate Café upstairs in Cork City’s English Market. The tripe and onions with drisheen, a type of blood pudding made in Ireland, and served with potatoes, is another of its unique local dishes. Gallagher’s Boxty House in Dublin’s Temple Bar has been serving boxty for over 30 years – its early bird menu, served till midday, includes a delicious boxty pancake. At The Local in Dungarvan, tuck into a mouth-watering steak sandwich served on a Blaa. At Biddy’s O’Barnes in the famous Barnesmore Gap in Donegal, sate your hunger with their delicious seafood chowder washed down with a Football Special.