The people who made my trip to northern Spain unforgettable

Often, after returning from our travels, we talk about trips that moved us both physically and emotionally. More than the Michelin-star meal we ate or the breathtaking vista we visited, we want to share with our friends about the bartender who gave us the inside scoop on the nightlife scene, or the locals next to us at the cafe with whom we struck up a conversation.

My recent 11-day trip to northern Spain was full of spectacular experiences that I’m still reminiscing about, organized by my tour guide, Alba. Alba is a local expert for Lonely Planet Journeys, our travel-planning service. Her on-the-ground knowledge and insider connections unlocked the most phenomenal, wildly varied activities for our itinerary, which you can book yourself here. Like other Lonely Planet Journeys local experts, Alba understands a destination’s beating heart and wants travelers to feel like they’ve uncovered something truly unique. Bonus: she’s also really, really funny.

Trips without connection are surface-level, and you have to do a lot of work to break beneath that surface. But with Lonely Planet Journeys, our local experts make that easy. 

I seriously miss Alba. She was an integral part of the trip – going so far as to invite our group into her home in her tiny village to meet her husband, two dogs and four chickens – but she was not the only person who left a lasting impact on me. I’d like to introduce you to some more of the wonderful folks our group met in Northern Spain in the hopes that, one day, you’ll get to meet them, too.

Stefy, an adventurous local expert

We met Stefy in Alquézar, a medieval hilltop Arab village in Aragón, where we were staying for the night. Stefy is another Lonely Planet Journeys local expert who works with Alba, and she loves any sort of adventurous excuse to get outside. Luckily for Stefy, she lives in Northern Spain, so this isn’t hard. After a brief walking tour of the tiny town, she led us down into the neighboring canyon to hike the Ruta de las Pasarelas del Río Vero, which consists of suspended platforms over otherworldly turquoise waters. She informed us that the lovely color is due to the limestone in the canyon. Stefy also told us that in summer, Alquézar can get fairly crowded, with many businesses closing down for the offseason. Having the canyon to ourselves on a sunny day in March was something special. Stefy’s one of those people who sees great potential in a destination’s offseason, which we need more of in the tourism industry.

The Domènech-Nogueroles family, winemakers by trade

Imagine it’s a Sunday, and your entire family has gathered together for a leisurely, multicourse meal. You sit for hours telling stories, laughing, just hanging out. Now imagine the backdrop of that meal is a stunning vineyard in Priorat, Spain. The team at Vinyes Domènech is a family – I’m not speaking metaphorically – devoted to creating wines in harmony with the land while minimizing their ecological footprint. I like wine, though I’m no expert, but I most enjoyed getting to know this family, who were so welcoming to our group. Three generations were present, including the next generation, a 3-year-old who sat in her grandfather’s lap, sniffing and commenting on each wine. It was the perfect lengthy Sunday-style meal, even if it was a Thursday.

Jorge, Irene, Zeru and a baby goat

Jorge and Irene run La Cañabla, a cheese farm at the base of the majestic Sorrosal waterfall in the Aragonese Pyrenees. Within a few minutes of arriving, a border collie named Zeru was jovially burrowing in each of our laps, excited to meet her new friends. Jorge, a shepherd, led us into the sheep pen, where he and Zeru did a sheepdog demonstration. He told us Zeru knows multiple languages, but she also responds to various tones on a special whistle. He also told us Zeru’s favorite reward isn’t head scratches or treats; it’s getting to work more. How unrelatable! Afterward, he led us into the goat pen and promptly handed me a baby goat to cradle in my arms; it took a lot of willpower to put her down. After some handwashing, we headed back inside to taste some of the farm’s tastiest cheeses, presented to us by Irene. Meeting people who are passionate about their business and excited to share their craft with visitors is an incredible privilege.

Xanti, the former smuggler

Only in Spain will you meet a former smuggler of goods (and occasionally people) across the Spanish-French border in Navarra during Francisco Franco’s dictatorship. Xanti joined us on a short hike along the border, answering all of our questions – in Basque, translated by another guide – about his years as a smuggler. As a boy, he took on small, low-risk assignments and later, crossed borders in the dark with massive loads on his back, dealt with border control (the Schengen area hadn’t been created yet) and even dressed up in disguise. He finished telling his story over a classic Navarra dinner we shared in a cabin along the route: fish stew, braised beef and lots of wine.

Noemi, a proud Basque tour guide

I’ve always admired people with great pride in where they’re from. Noemi, our Basque Country tour guide, is one of them. As we pulled out of Navarra and into the Basque Country, she enrolled us in Basque 101: the Basque are hardworking, polite and devoted to the survival of their language and culture. The Basque Country has its own regional tax system, meaning they fund all of their own public services and infrastructure. They love to eat, and they eat well. And Basque men? Can’t flirt to save their lives. Noemi then proceeded to lead us on the most fabulous pintxo tour of San Sebastián, knowing which spots to hit at just the right time, and most importantly, what to order. I know, she’s a tour guide – she’s supposed to know and share a lot of information – but there’s a difference between a knowledgeable tour guide and a passionate one.