At the heart of old Ajmer, thetomb of the Sufi saint Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti (donations appropriate) is thronged at all hours by Muslim devotees, who gather here to pray, contemplate, sing devotional qawwali hymns, recite from the Quran, and make offerings of flowers, scarves, incense and sandalwood at the saint's gravesite.
Visitors are welcome, but respect is key. Remove your shoes, cover your head, leave your bag and camera in the cloakroom (or back in your hotel), and join the crowds of devotees, who will carry you forward like a living wave. Temple attendants may lead you round and introduce you to some of the Sufi mystics who offer spiritual advice and astrological readings in the courtyard. Leaving a donation is appropriate.
Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti came to Ajmer from Persia in 1192 and died here in 1236, after a lifetime preaching a doctrine of tolerance, charity and compassion, earning him great respect from India's Mughal rulers. Keen follower Akbar used to make the pilgrimage to this dargah every year from Agra.
Humayun constructed much of the shrine, and the grand entrance was added by the Nizam of Hyderabad in 1915. Other notable features include the 16th-century Akbari Masjid (1571), the Shahjahani Gate (erected by Shah Jahan) and the grand Buland Darwaza gateway, flanked two vast Mughal-era degs (iron cauldrons) filled with offerings for the poor.
At the heart of the complex, the saint's dargah is a crowded, atmospheric space, adorned with beaten silver panels and perfumed with the scent of rose petals. Notes attached to the railings beg for aid or give thanks for wishes granted.
On the anniversary of the saint’s death, the Urs, in the seventh lunar month, the crowds become an unstoppable throng, and music, singing and the tangible energy of belief fills the compound.
