Guide to Derry: local breweries, historical street tours and TV legends

It may be one of the main cities on the island of Ireland, but Derry still has a village feel. Northern Ireland’s second-largest city after Belfast, the "Walled City" is the only one on the island whose ancient defensive stone walls are completely intact and accessible to pedestrians. Derry’s story is also documented on a series of colorful murals dotted around the city, from its turbulent history through the Troubles and the civil rights movement to the iconic Derry Girls TV show.

Renowned for its music, Derry’s entertainment scene and the food and restaurant culture have exploded in recent years. With its cobbled streets and charming pubs, it’s the perfect place to grab a pint at the bar and find yourself entertained by the friendliest locals you’re ever likely to meet. It’s also a great base to explore the wider hinterland of Inishowen, just across the border in County Donegal, or the scenic Causeway Coastal route, snaking along Northern Ireland’s coastline.  An hour and 20 minutes by car from its bigger, brasher sibling Belfast, Derry is a jewel of a city that will keep you coming back for more. This is everything you need to know about getting there and what to do when you arrive.

When should I go to Derry?

The finer weather from May to August makes a stroll on the banks of the River Foyle, along the city’s quays, a real treat. School holidays in June, July and August can lead to an increase in visitors, resulting in higher prices and stiff competition for accommodation; book early to avoid disappointment. The city hosts its annual jazz festival every May Bank Holiday weekend and the Foyle Maritime Festival in June, bringing large crowds to the city streets and quays. For those seeking an awe-inspiring autumnal break, the city’s Halloween festival is the biggest in Europe.

Like anywhere in Ireland, rain is always a possibility; bring your wet gear. The cosy pubs, great music scene and warm welcome mean a winter break in Derry is also a good option. 

How much time should I spend in Derry? 

A small, compact and easy to get around city – locals call it "the town" – Derry is easy to navigate on foot, and you can pack in a lot over a weekend. Base yourself in the city center and sign up for a historical walking tour with a local guide. Stop for lunch in the city’s Craft Village, which feels a bit like stepping back in time, and stock up on some stunning handmade souvenirs in the independent shops.

Make time to visit the Gothic grandeur of the Guildhall, which was a key landmark in the city’s volatile past and is now the seat of the current council chamber. You could easily spend a day meandering around the 400-year-old walls, taking time to admire the views from the ramparts and stopping to admire the grandeur of St Columb’s Cathedral. Don’t forget to walk across the iconic Peace Bridge, which has become a symbol of Derry's triumph over adversity. Built in 2011, it elegantly snakes its way across the River Foyle, linking the city center with Ebrington Square, the home of a former military barracks.

If you have 4 or 5 days, take the chance to explore the surrounding area. Plan a day’s hiking in the Sperrin Mountains, which have been designated as an area of outstanding natural beauty. Stretching across both Derry and Tyrone as far east as the shores of Lough Neagh, expect undulating hills, quiet valleys and boggy uplands with lots of easy walks. With ten peaks higher than 500 meters, there’s plenty to challenge even the most experienced of hikers.

The hills of the Inishowen Peninsula in County Donegal are easily visible from the city, and are an accessible day trip by car. Inishowen is regularly referred to as "Ireland in miniature," and with its mountainous center sweeping down to gleaming golden sands and unspoilt beaches, it’s a perfect opportunity to explore the northernmost edge of the island.

Is it easy to get to and around Derry?

Derry has its own small airport with connections to UK cities including London, Liverpool and Edinburgh. A new service between City of Derry Airport and Dublin Airport is planned for October 2026 with services set to operate twice daily. There are Aircoach options from Belfast International Airport and Dublin Airport, which take you right into the city center. Train services operate between Derry and Belfast and the route hugs the coast, offering magnificent views of Downhill Beach with the domed Mussenden Temple perched on the cliffs above.

Daily bus services run between Derry and Dublin City. By car, it will take about 3½ hours from Dublin to Derry and 1 hour and 20 minutes from Belfast. The city center is easily navigable on foot, but there's a taxi rank on Foyle Street or bus services from the depot on the same road serving the wider area. There are also connections serving other destinations such as County Donegal.

Live like a Derry Girl for the day

There’s no better place to start following in the footsteps of the characters from the iconic TV show Derry Girls than at the mural created in their honor. The artwork takes over an entire wall on Badger’s Bar on Orchard Street, and a selfie with Erin, Michelle, Clare, Orla and James, "the wee English fella," is a must. Several operators run walking tours of the show’s filming locations, and the Tower Museum at Union Hall Place has a Derry Girls exhibit where you can even sit on Erin’s sofa. Top off your day by stopping for a cream horn, a confection of puff pastry with a whipped cream filling made famous by the show. Doherty’s Bakery on Foyle Street serves them fresh every day. 

Follow the city’s struggles through its iconic murals 

No visit to Derry is complete without seeing the murals in the Bogside area, which document the city's turbulent history. The existing 12 murals, located on walls in Rossville Street, tell the story of life for locals during the Troubles, from the iconic image of the Battle of the Bogside through to famous civil rights leaders from Ireland and beyond. To bring the story alive, take a tour with Gleann Doherty, who runs Derry Guided Tours and whose own father was the last to be shot by the British Army on Bloody Sunday. 

Cycle the city’s quays and parks

If you’re stuck for time, get on your bike and take in the city on two wheels. Tour operator Far and Wild offers a guided culinary biking adventure over the course of a 10-mile round trip. The tour starts at St Columb’s Park on the Waterside and takes you across the Peace Bridge, from where you cycle downriver to Brookhall Estate. Or hire a bike and take a spin at your own speed; you can have the bike delivered to your location through Cycle Derry. 

Grab a pint and learn the lingo 

Derry people are very friendly and some of the most naturally funny people you’ll meet. They love to talk about their "town" and the city’s pubs and watering holes are a great way to dive into some of the local lingo – which has its own dictionary of sorts: The Wile Big Derry Phrasebook. Pop into Little Acorns Bookshop on Great James’s Street for a copy of the book and then grab a stool at Sandino’s for the best in banter. This friendly local is also one of the city’s best live music venues. Or pop into Peadar O’Donnell’s on Waterloo Street for good conversation and a traditional Irish music session. Blackbird on Foyle Street serves delicious cocktails and good pub grub, and if you’ve worked up an appetite after all the chat, the Walled City Brewery has a drool-worthy menu.

My favourite thing to do in Derry

I grew up on the Donegal-Derry border, so Derry feels like my home town, and I love a day in the city center browsing through the antique, vintage and craft shops, stopping for regular coffee breaks. Then it's time for a wander up the cobbles of Pump Street before heading into London Street for a peek inside Smart Swag, which sells one-off hand-crafted pieces, from jewelry to cards. The Whatnot on Bishop Street is also perfect for a browse – this little antique and curio store is a treasure trove for unusual gifts. I’ll grab a coffee and lunch at The Wig Champagne Bar, part of Bishop’s Gate Hotel, before popping into Foyle Books on Magazine Street for a browse through the second-hand and antique books. A coffee and scone in The Cottage craft gallery and coffee shop in the Craft Village always goes down a treat. 

How much money do I need for Derry?

Derry is good value for money, and many restaurants offer early bird menus or daily specials. Many of the best things to do in the city are free and won’t cost you a penny, and the official Visit Derry sightseeing pass makes numerous paid attractions more affordable. Cash is king in many small shops, but most retailers will take debit and credit cards, and Apple/Google Pay. 

• Night at the boutique Maiden City Hotel: from 85 pounds sterling (£)

• Tickets to a show at the Millennium Forum: from £35

• Americano and a scone at The Scullery Coffee Shop: £6.45

• Traditional fish and chips from Fiorentini’s family-owned restaurant: £10.50

• Bowl of soup, sandwich and a pint at Badger’s Bar and Restaurant: £17.50

• Sourdough pizza from Scarpello and Co bakehouse and pizzeria: from £13

• Guided walking tour of the city: from £25

• Visit Derry one-day pass: £30

Beyond the border

Travel to the Republic of Ireland is easy from Derry, but remember you will need euros across the border from Northern Ireland.

Be prepared for steep streets

Derry is easy to get around on foot, but some streets are very steep, and the city walls are accessed in parts via steep stone steps.