Checking in: La Valise Mexico City

Whenever I’m looking for a place to stay, my go-to search term is “boutique.” My wife and I had been noodling on our first trip to Mexico City for months, and it became apparent that La Valise was the perfect option for us. With just eight suites tucked into a chic townhouse in busy Roma Norte, it combines luxury – spa, room service, soaking tubs, oh my – with stunning 1920s French design influences.

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My mission during this long weekend was to explore the city and find the best possible options for our sparkly new Lonely Planet app, and La Valise was the perfect home base. Though I love value for money, I'm also a stickler for indulgent accommodations; this is everything you need to know about one of the best boutique hotel options in Mexico City.

About

• Best for: Couples and solo travelers looking to dive into the hustle and bustle of Roma Norte and Condesa  

• Location: Tonalá 53, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX

• Rooms: 8

• Price rating: Mid-range to high-end depending on which suite you select

• Amenities: Room service, spa, rooftop bar, all-day cafe 

• Check-in/check-out: 3pm check-in, 12pm check-out, but it's flexible; just ask for extra time 

History

La Valise was built in the 1920s as a French-style townhouse, and the attention to detail and design flourishes throughout are impeccable. It opened as a hotel in January 2024. 

Why it’s worth it

When we decided to visit Mexico City, our priority was supporting a local hotel rather than choosing a short-term rental; working in travel, I followed the 2025 protests of such rentals quite closely and wanted to do my best to respect the clear wishes of the local community. Roma Norte is already one of the capital’s most gentrified neighborhoods, after all. 

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Beyond that, La Valise really checked my boxes. I’m a sucker for great design, and the lilac exterior had me swooning the moment we arrived. I took in the hotel with a dreamy gaze, eyeing the sweet touches: artwork and ceramics and even an old Lonely Planet guidebook tucked into the bookshelf of the suite’s living space. 

The rooms

I stayed in the Moon Suite, aptly named for the massive, pale circular structure that acts as a door between the living area and bedroom. The living area itself was an excellent size, with a deep velvet couch and coffee table. Next to it was a little tucked-away kitchen with green tiles that has made its way onto my dream interiors list. At the other end of the small hallway was the bathroom, which was split into two parts: a toilet cubicle with its own sink (and a proper door, a rarity in hotels these days!), and the bathing area with a huge bathtub and walk-in shower, plus another sink with space for makeup bags and toiletries.

What can I say? I love a snazzy hotel bathroom. (And yes, I did try the tub; it was perfection after a long day of exploring on foot.)

Another special touch is the lighting. With big, historic windows throughout the space, there was something almost mystical about watching the sun fade through the glass as our daily thunderstorm made its way by. The walls of the hotel are quite thin, but in a way that honestly felt endearing; even when I needed a moment to laze about, I could still hear life in Roma Norte continuing beyond our suite, from the sound of thunder and friends laughing together to the ever-present loudspeaker recording that has become synonymous with the city. Initially, I was annoyed by it. Now, I miss it. 

Accessibility

Unfortunately, this is not an especially accessible hotel. It does get points for having an elevator, but there are stairs everywhere, from the hotel's entrance to the suites themselves; there are also stairs between the elevator and suites, which could be tricky for those with mobility issues. In true historic fashion, the doorways are quite slim. The staff is very kind and more than willing to transport your luggage around the hotel or to a waiting car.

The neighborhood 

Since returning from my trip, I’ve told everyone two things: I ate more in 4 days than I normally do in a week (I need new jeans immediately), and I cannot believe how expansive Mexico City’s neighborhoods really feel. The New York City comparison really is apt; just like how I feel like I’ve seen 2% of NYC’s East Village despite years of visiting, I feel like I’ve seen less than 1% of Roma Norte after this trip. And I will be back.

It was immediately obvious why people love Roma Norte as much as they do. It’s buzzy. It’s pretty. The buildings, the splashes of color, and the blend of old and new are intoxicating. Wandering past a bakery with a line out the door and then accidentally walking right into an art exhibit. Ordering street tortas on a busy roadside one minute and then entering a chic all-vegan spot the next. The never-ending list of matcha spots and the fierce competition over which beloved panadería (bakery) is really home to the best rol de guayaba (guava roll) is delightful.

Best things to do nearby

Day one: Have a frozen blueberry matcha at Boicot Cafe and people-watch at Plaza Rio De Janeiro. Grab tacos at Gracias Madre before shopping on Colima Street; I could tell you where to go, but you should really just wander, take it in, double back, and then grab your favorites. Dinner is burgers at Sugar Planty. 

Day two: Get an early start and explore with an iced vanilla latte from Cumbé in hand. Grab a seat on the sidewalk outside of Delirio and sink your teeth into a hearty egg and cheese in warm pitta bread. Hop in an Uber and head to Centro Histórico for the Templo Mayor Museum, Palacio Nacional, and the Catedral Metropolitana. Refuel with ramen at Izakaya Kura. 

Day three: There'll be a line at Panaderia Rosetta, but their sumptuous pastries are worth the wait. When hunger strikes after hours of pounding the pavement, head to Plantasia for plant-based deliciousness. Order a variety of appetizers; the menu is excellent. Embrace the afternoon thunderstorm and then get dressed up for an evening at Alexander Bar, enjoying truffles and caviar.