The Ultimate Vegetarian Weekend in Mexico City

As a queer, vegetarian, art-loving thirty-something, Mexico City (CDMX) has been at the top of my list for years. Before my trip, I couldn’t wait to sink my teeth into its galleries, ancient relics and many, many tacos, tortas and chilaquiles. After the endless stream of tasty dishes I was lucky enough to eat during my weekend stay, I already know I’ll be back.

Here's how I spent the weekend indulging on vegetarian dishes and exploring Roma Norte, one of CDMX's trendiest neighborhood.

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• When to arrive: Arrive Thursday afternoon, so you’re energized and ready (come hungry!)

• How to get from the airport: In CDMX, sometimes a taxi is easier, sometimes a rideshare is easier. I grabbed an Uber from the airport and had no issue.

• Getting around town: Walk, walk, walk. Traffic can be intense; walking as much as possible is your best bet. If not, rideshares are affordable and fairly accessible. 

• Where to stay: La Valise is an eight-suite luxury boutique hotel in a 1920s French-style townhouse. It's an elegant escape in Roma Norte.

• What to pack: Think of Mexico City as functional-chic. People wear lots of funky accessories, but their outfits are fairly low-key. Bring cool sneakers that can survive a daily afternoon rainstorm.

Day 1 

Afternoon

The kind staff at La Valise will happily hold your bags while you wait for your room to be prepped. Walk from the hotel’s central location in the artsy Roma Norte neighborhood to a series of taco stands on the corner; give Gatorta a try. It’s an entirely vegan spot with tacos and tortas. Get a loaded veggie torta to refuel after your long day of flying.

Dinner

Come evening, you’re probably feeling a bit tired. Take a lazy evening stroll to pick up dinner. Keep an eye out for the blue overhang at Los Originales del Beis; For a classic staple, get quesadillas and lemon pie.  

Day 2 

Morning 

Allow yourself a slow start to the day (especially if you, like me, normally wake up somewhere with less severe altitude). Wander down to the La Valise Café, and have yourself a spread: the desayuno americano and chilaquiles. It’ll give you all of the carbs you need for a full day of adventuring. 

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How to Spend the Day 

Today, hit the sights. Hop in a rideshare or taxi and visit Centro Histórico. Pause to people-watch, and maybe shop for some colorful souvenirs. Then, go straight off to Templo Mayor Museum, which seems like your standard museum… until you step outside. You’re quickly steeped in incredibly historically important Aztecs ruins. Expect the bright sun on your face and to be pretty wowed. Next, walk to another important site: the Catedral Metropolitana de la Ciudad de México, which is free to enter. Expect altars, art and crowds.

Dinner 

Sugar Planty is a cute, entirely vegan spot with an impressively varied menu. Have a burger to recharge after likely hitting those 20,000 steps. And fries. And, okay, a Diet Coke.

After Dark 

You aren’t done yet. Shake off the sleepies and get dolled up for a nice cocktail or mocktail at the Alexander Hotel. Take in the vibes, order a drink or two and top things off with some refreshing ice cream. You might even earn the story of Don Quixote from your bartender. 

Day 3

Morning

Boicot Café has excellent cold brew, but they also have a full-on matcha bar, and some of the most interesting matcha combinations I came across in the city. Order a blueberry matcha for an icy sip – plus a slice of matcha cake – before bopping around the neighborhood for a bit of window shopping. 

How to Spend the Day 

In the early afternoon before the heat sets in (followed by those reliable thunderstorms), take a rideshare to Bosque de Chapultepec. Your drive will (hopefully) drop you near the entrance, but if not, follow the crowds – the place is heavily fenced in, so you have to find an opening to get in. Climb Chapultepec Hill in search of the Castillo de Chapultepec, or simply join the locals for a bit of lounging around in the grass, near the fountain or on some of the larger rocks on the hill. 

Dinner 

Funky Plantasia is an Asian fusion restaurant where you can really pile on the veggies. Expect a unique experience; there are standard tables, sure, but there’s also seating in what is essentially a greenhouse, while another section provides a conversation pit (careful on the step down!). Order the brocheta de coles de Bruselas (Brussel sprout skewer), spicy pad Thai, and tempura brócoli a la naranja (orange broccoli). 

Day 4 

Morning 

Order iced vanilla lattes at Cumbé and make your way down to Colima, a street loaded with design shops and the like: clothes and accessories at 180º Shop, ceramic gifts and trinkets at Colima Local Market, a jersey at El Jugador Número 12. Sufficiently shopped out, it’s time for breakfast at Delirio, where you can grab a seat at the small sidewalk tables and sip Topo Chico before diving into a breakfast sandwich. 

How to Spend the Day 

Your final day is dedicated to bakery hopping. Mexico City has strong feelings about guava (guayaba), and your main options to try it out in Roma Norte and Condesa are the chic Odette, the controversial Green Rhino and the ever-trendy Panadería Rosetta. I’m not telling you my favorite. You'll have to try them for yourself! 

Lunch 

Have a relaxing afternoon walk through the Parque España and keep heading north to Kura, a gorgeous but fairly laid-back Japanese restaurant with excellent service. Personally, I dove right into a vegetarian bowl of ramen, but they’ve got other veg options clearly labeled for easy searching. Side note: the bathrooms here are absolutely stunning. I don’t know why, but they are. 

Dinner 

Wrap up your Mexico City eating adventure with a classic: tacos at Gracias Madre, proudly a taquería vegana. Given that I could eat, well, everything, we ordered quite a spread: about nine tacos to split between the two of us. The salsas and sauces are no joke, so try them all, too, and reflect on the absolute dream that is eating your way through CDMX.

Rachel Lewis visited CDMX as a guest of La Valise. Lonely Planet does not accept free trips in return for positive coverage.