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Castello di Rivoli Museum of Contemporary Art's establishment in 1984 came about as the canny Torinese realised contemporary art could help build a new identity for the city. Its ambition and reach, not to mention healthy regional funding, has since been the envy of Milan, Venice and Rome's art worlds. The permanent collection has a sizeable number of Arte Povera works which are beautifully displayed in the historical setting, along with pieces from the Transavanguardia, Minimal, Body and Land Art movements.
This includes an impressive selection of video work from artists such as Nam June Paik, Bill Viola and Vanessa Beecroft, while temporary exhibitions have included international heavyweights (Sophie Calle, Gilbert & George and Joseph Kosuth in recent years), spliced with some hard-hitting Italian mid-careerists.
There's definitely an academic seriousness to the place, but its impressive mix of contemporary and baroque architecture, amazing views, and highly engaging, often provocative, shows are never dull.
In summer, the free Castello di Rivoli Express runs on weekends, from Piazza Castello and Porta Susa four times a day, starting at 9.30am. Otherwise, take the metro to Paradiso station and then bus 36 to Rivoli bus station. Radio Taxi offer a flat fare of €37 from the city centre if you mention the Castello di Rivoli concession when booking.