Magh Mela, the ancient religious fair at Prayagraj, is a celebration of life

Hindu mythology considers the origin of the Magh Mela to be associated with the beginning of the Universe. The festival that begins with Makar Sankranti and ends with Maha Shivratri brings millions of pilgrims to the ghats of Prayagraj every year.

The origin

All major religious occasions in India are marked by famous fairs. The range and scale of these can go from a few days of fun frolic around a local deity’s shrine to huge congregations of millions lasting a couple of months at important religious centers. The fairs of Magh Mela and Kumbh Mela are two such examples. Though the mega event of Kumbh has become world famous, what does not get enough attention is the Magh Mela. Legends have it that the tradition of Magh Mela began after Lord Brahma, the creator of the universe, performed a sacred yajna at Sangam, the confluence of three holy rivers Ganga, Yamuna and Sarawati in Prayagraj. To ensure the tradition is carried on, locals started holding the annual fair of Magh Mela. Even today, pilgrims believe the mela is a reminder of the creation of the universe by Brahma and a celebration of life.

Magh Mela begins on the the 11th day of Poush month of the Hindu calendar every year and runs through the 12th day of the month of Magh. The 45-day event is marked by religious ceremonies, elaborate rituals, and aartis on the banks of the two rivers. Millions of pilgrims travel to the ghats of the Ganga and Yamuna to spend the month living by the holy rivers. This month is also called Kalpvas and the devotees here called Kalpvasis. Every 12th Magh Mela is celebrated as the Kumbh.

One of the most interesting aspect of the Magh Mela is its set up. Just a few weeks before the event even as the administration prepares itself for a month of celebration and worship an entire city comes up on the ghats. Tents, cottages, roads, shops, banks, ATMs and even markets are set up by the administration; additional buses and trains are scheduled to help pilgrims reach the city and heightened security measures are put into place. From the first day of the nahaan to the last, the place becomes one big celebration of life, faith, and divinity. Exciting, pulsating, energetic and mystical, Magh Mela is a celebration like none other.

There is a lot more to Magh Mela than just rituals, holy baths and ancient temples though. Even if one does not want to be a part of religious activities, there is much to do here. A boat ride at dawn in the Ganga, a visit to the far off ghat of Yamuna, a long chat with the ageless yogis are some things you should not miss.

Things to do in Prayagraj

While in the city you should also visit Allahabad University campus that can beat most monuments in its grandeur and architectural detail. Anand Bhawan, the residence of the Nehru Family which is now a museum, is a great place for a long afternoon outing and Alfred Park, the place where Chandrasekhar Azad had shot himself to escape the British Police, is where you catch the locals in action.

Eating in Prayagraj

One absolutely must not miss the wide variety of street food in Prayagraj. A typical day in the city must begin with a breakfast of kachori-sabzi and dahi-Jalebi. Evenings are for chaat: phulkis with different fillings, pani ke batashe with different flavours of water, aloo-tikia and tamatar ki chaat are the most popular here. Pandit Ji ki Chaat in George Town is the best place to indulge in chaat; Nirala Mishthan Bhandar is the place to to try the famous Allahabadi-laddoos and Dehati is where you need to indulge in what are some of the world’s best Gulab Jamuns. But that is not all, Prayagraj with its influence from Mughal and British colonial history has a lot to offer from the world of kebabs and biryani. The old city is where you’d find some of the best kababs and curries.