The ultimate spring weekend in Lake Como, Italy

I was worried about two things before I went to Como. The first was: am I crazy for flying all the way from Nashville, Tennessee, to Milan, Italy, then traveling an hour more into the mountains for a three-day trip? The second was: can Lake Como really live up to the idealized version in my mind?

Dear reader, the answer to the first is yes, I am, but it was also a great idea. The answer to the second was a hundred times yes. I think three days is the perfect amount of time to feel like you’ve gone on a trip, savored the experience, and felt the benefits of travel. Como, especially in the spring, is the perfect destination for such a trip.

The spring air here is crisp and cold, but the sun is warm and sparkles on the lake like pixie dust. The mountains surrounding that impossibly beautiful expanse of water are still capped with a sprinkling of snow, while the trees are in full bloom, growing their first earnest leaves. It is the type of place to take long meandering walks, to work on that novel you’ve always dreamed about, and have a glass of wine at lunch. The incredible beauty is inspiring. The commitment to refined restraint is luxurious. And the simple elegance is unmatched. Throw a scarf,  a trench and some decent walking shoes in your weekender and prepare for three days of savoring. This is how to spend the ultimate weekend at Lake Como.

Day 1

Morning

I arrived at the Palazzo San Gottardo, Lake Como, just after 10am. They were able to check me in (call ahead to request an early check-in or follow my colleague Melinda Anderson's lead and book the night before so your room is ready on arrival), so I could drop my bags, take a quick rest, freshen up and grab an espresso. Caffè Lariano on the ground floor of the hotel has a wonderful coffee bar and can make whatever you desire. The cafe also serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, but more about that later. 

How to spend the day

In a perfect world, every day would be like this. I grabbed a gelato from the gelaterie next to the hotel. The line was out the door, students were draped on the tables and the sidewalk stairs, enjoying their moment in the sun. I immediately wanted to join them. While standing in line about to order my first gelato, it suddenly sank in that I was finally in Italy, for the first time in my life, and should probably speak Italian; thankfully, the wait gave me time to practice, and it went without a hitch. Stepping out with a cone in hand, the lake stretching before me into the Alps, 16th-century villas dotting the hillside – I immediately dropped right into the present moment. 

I wandered across the street to the promenade that stretches for about a mile around the lake, directly in front of the city center, where my hotel was located. To the left, the path goes past the stadium and ends at Villa Olmo, a neoclassical villa with beautiful gardens that is now a museum. Though it was closed for renovations during my visit, this is a great starting point for a tour of the Como Villas. I turned right and joined the other people walking slowly, enjoying the sun and each other. My advice? Linger as long as you can. I loved photographing the swans in the water, and recorded (just audio and with permission) a couple playing the harmonica under a tree. Boats floated past me on the lake, and exuberant toddlers ran across the grass.

At the end of the path, head back towards Como, get off the lakeside promenade and head into the village. Wandering along street after street filled with lovely little shops, and slowly making my way back to my hotel for dinner at dusk, was delightful.

Dinner

The top floor of Palazzo San Gartado is dedicated to the Radiante. Surrounded by glass windows, the views before sunset are divine. Once it's dark outside, the reflections from the dim tabletop lighting create an intimate atmosphere for enjoying Italian haute cuisine. We had multiple courses, but my favorites were the beet mousse amuse-bouche and, of course, the dessert. 

Day 2

Breakfast

I went no farther than Caffè Lariano for breakfast. They have a glass case filled with freshly made pastries, a yogurt bar and every kind of delicious baked good you could imagine. When you order breakfast, you’re welcome to sample the pastries; however, they’ll bring you a tiered tray with bite-sized samples of some of the treats, which will help you refine your options. I ordered the poached egg and loved the way it swam in a pesto, olive oil sauce. 

How to spend the day

Arrange for transport to Villa Carlotta – you can take a car or the bus, but I would recommend the ferry. The port is very near Como’s center, with multiple sailings per day. Walk straight on and get an amazing view of the lake along the way; the journey to Villa Carlotta takes about 45 minutes.

Springtime at Villa Carlotta is ever-changing, as all wonderful gardens should be. This one has been growing since the late 19th-century when Princess Marianne of Orange-Nassau gifted the villa to her daughter Carlotta and her husband Georg II of Saxe-Meiningen. He was a passionate botanist and worked to collect plants from all over the world. Wandering from the dogwood grove up into the bamboo forest is a treat, and I loved the moment when the bamboo clinked together in the breeze, adding a soft percussion to our walk. Throughout the season, different flowers start to bloom, so there is always something wonderful to see. 

The villa itself has a gorgeous collection of neoclassical and romantic artwork. The marble Cupid and Psyche by Antonio Canova was my particular favorite, but even the views framed by the windows cause you to stop and appreciate the beauty.

In the late afternoon, it was time for a wonderful walking tour of Como. I'm a fan of these in any destination, but this one offered all kinds of interesting insights into the history and culture of this fascinating city. I learned that Como is known for its silk production, and while they no longer harvest the silk from worms, it is where many of the largest fashion houses have their silk designed and made.

At one point, our guide pointed out that we could see an 11th-century basilica, a 13th-century church, and a stunning example of Italian Rationalist Architecture by Giuseppe Terragni that was also the seat of the fascist government in the area. Like everywhere in the world, Como is layered. But over the years, it has also consistently set its gaze towards beauty.

Aperativo

Head to Gustosè in Como. This lovely little bodega has local wines, craft beers, and offers wonderful pairings with different local olive oils, freshly baked focaccia, and plates of meats and cheeses. We took our sweet time lingering over the wine and cheese. Making a reservation is wise to avoid disappointment; the shop is just a short walk from Palazzo San Gottardo.

Dinner

We made reservations at Lo Storico, a classic seafood restaurant in Como. The intimate interior features the most incredible chandelier I have ever seen, the food was elegant without being over-the-top, and the wine pairings were exactly on point. Blissfully satisfied, it was back to the hotel for an early night.

Day 3

Morning

Once more to the delights of Caffé Lariano for breakfast because I’m not sure there is a reason to go elsewhere. Hotel breakfasts are my weakness, and this one is immaculate. 

How to spend the day

It's not normally my preference to cram itineraries to the point you can barely catch your breath; the whole point of this weekend is to enjoy la dolce vita. However, I have two recommendations for your final day – one I wholeheartedly enjoyed, and another I didn't have time for, but desperately wanted to do.

If you get an opportunity, hire a boat for the day and let the captain take you on a bespoke tour of the lake. Seeing the many villas dotted along the cliff sides surrounding Lake Como is an incredible experience, and many of them can only be reached by boat. With your own private vessel, you can make whichever stops you like – wander around Belaggio for an hour, or stop by the Ponte della Civera in Nesso, the oldest bridge on Lake Como that was built by the Romans. 

The second option (highly recommended in our guidebook), and the one I didn’t get to do, is to take the funicular from Como to Brunate. The ride is seven minutes straight up the very steep hill to the village of Brunate that used to be a holiday spot for nobles (like all of the villages surrounding Lake Como). But the views from Brunate are spectacular (or so I'm told...). Take a slow wander around the village and climb to the top of Voltiano Lighthouse for the best photo opportunities. Unfortunately, the funicular was closed for servicing while I was there, or I would have been up that hill in an instant.

Aperativo

Head back to Palazzo San Gottardo and make your way to the rooftop for cocktails and snacks. The bar, Lumi, has the best view of the sunset in Como. Admire the red and pink hues scattered across the sky with a cocktail in hand as the sun sinks below the Alps.

Dinner

On our last night we had dinner just around the corner from the hotel. A wonderful restaurant called Latteria San Fidele that was formerly a butcher shop. The front is still reminiscent of a butcher with cases for the meat and in the back which used to be the carriage house and sty for the animals, are lovely tables. The service was delightful and the food offerings representative of the region, complete with the signature buckwheat pasta dish Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese.