The cities that inspire Indian fashion designer J J Valaya's collections

Great cities inspire fashion and designers. The New York fashion week in 2020 had Shoshana presenting a collection inspired by the Balearic Islands; Ayah Tabari on Filipino culture and Lawrence and Chico’s collection was titled, ‘Love Letters to New York’. J J Valaya, one of India’s leading fashion designers, presented his 2021 summer collection this week as an ode to Bursa, hailed as the birthplace of the Ottoman Empire. He shares the cities that have served as the muse to his many collections.

Bursa, the Ottoman saga

Bursa was awarded Unesco World Heritage status in 2014 for being the birthplace of the Ottoman Empire. The idea was to paint the Ottomon saga in myriad hues and Valaya’s collection, revealed on 14 February, was based on the grandeur of this Turkish city from its heady days in the 14th to 17th centuries. “Expect to see the inspired medley of spice, metal and jewel tones, bold patterns and layered textures”, he says. Silk threads, intricate golden thread embroidery will feature in traditional Indian garments like lehengas (flowing skirts), blouses, dupattas and sherwanis or cloaks for men.

Tabriz trail

Valaya’s 2019 collection Tabriz was inspired by the Persian aesthetic during the 16th-19th centuries from this city. Tabriz’ historical heritage and Silk Road pedigree is no more evident than in its thriving bazaar, one of the world’s best. This sprawling city, rich in Azeri culture, makes a perfect introduction to Iran. The collection combined motifs from Persian hunting rugs and Art Deco patterns in richly embroidered designer garments.

The Bolshoi Bazaar

An evening at the world-famous Bolshoi Theatre is one of Moscow’s most romantic and entertaining options for a night on the town. Its splendid ballets and operas performed in the glittering six-tier auditorium crackle with an electric atmosphere, evoking over 240 years of premier music and dance. Valaya’s 2015 collection, called Bolshoi Bazaar, was a mix of elements from Russia and India reflected in a dazzling line of richly patterned and embroidered garments.

The dance of Fez

The Nautch of Fez, a collection showcased some seven years ago, is what Valaya describes as a “melange of Moroccan magic and Indian silhouettes”. The city of Fez has a cultural and spiritual lineage that beguiles visitors even today.

The Maharaja of Madrid

“Madrid lives simultaneously in the past and the present”, says Valaya whose 2013 collection was inspired by the story of an Indian maharaja from the Punjab. The king travelled to Spain and brought back Spanish flamenco dancer Anita Delgado as his queen to the kingdom of Kapurthala in the early 20th century. Inspirations were drawn from laces found in Spanish fans, battle armors of India and Spain and even the toreros for this collection.

Kapurthala, the Paris of Punjab

One of Valaya’s forthcoming collections is going to take off from the tale of the Spanish queen of Jagajit Singh of Kapurthala. “It would be dedicated to this king who had quirky tastes”, says Valaya. The king was a travel junkie and constructed numerous buildings inspired by his many travels. “Expect magic when design and fashion meet travel inspiration,” says Valaya who promises more of travel inspired fashion lines in the future.

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