Konya: The place where Rumi rests

Dec 18, 2020

5 MIN READ

Nestling in the Central Anatolia Region of Turkey, Konya is a must-visit for all those who love the inspirational writings of Rumi. That is why perhaps there is no escaping the sense of exhilaration that grips visitors the moment they touch down in the city that the Afghanistan born Islamic scholar made his own almost 793 years ago. And when here, visitors have often been heard saying they can often feel Rumi's benign presence while walking down Konya’s picturesque boulevards.

The history of this haloed city goes back to prehistoric times. Known as Iconium in Roman times, Konya was the capital of the Seljuk Turks from the 12th to 13th centuries when Rumi or Mevlana (or 'my master') as everyone in Turkey calls him, came to live here and a few years later, found a Sufi order called Sema (the 'Whirling Dervishes').

Among the many architectural gems that the city unveils, the piece de resistance is, undeniably, the shrine dedicated to Rumi. Although his followers throng this site through the year, a visit on December 17 is special for that’s when his Seb-i-Arus is celebrated. It was on this day that Rumi passed away to unite -- as his followers say -- with his Lord. Hence, the day is also referred to as the 'Night of his Wedding'.

At the Mevlana Museum, it is not uncommon to find Rumi’s followers sitting in quiet corners with his books in hand. There’s a marble ablutions fountain at one end of the courtyard where many stops to wash their hands and sprinkle water on their faces. The blue-and-gold calligraphy on the soaring tower up ahead and the artistically designed cells capped with turquoise-hued domes where the dervishes once lived present a stunning sight. The interiors of the latter show up a host of ethnographic images depicting scenes from their lives.

The world of the Sema order has been recreated in the huge kitchen or the 'Matbah of the Dervishes'. Once a buzzing centre of activity in which besides cooking, religious discussions were held, youngsters keen to join the Sema went through their initial training etc, it has now been converted into a museum with life-like mannequins, fireplace, old utensils and furniture that go back to the 13th century.

At the entrance of the Mevlana Mausoleum, the inscription on the silver door that reads: ‘Those who enter here incomplete will come out perfect’ promises a moving experience. The first room houses six sarcophagi of Rumi’s followers -- the ones who came with the 20-year-old from Afghanistan in around 1228.

The piece de resistance of the inner room is undoubtedly the Mevlana's tomb that stands apart with a huge turban (a symbol of spiritual authority) placed on it. Next to Rumi’s resting place are those of his son and other followers, all covered with dexterously embroidered velvet shrouds. The mosque and semahane (a place where the dervishes performed the Sema) are some of the later additions made by the Ottoman sultans Mehmet the Conqueror and Süleyman the Magnificent.

Here, visitors also get to see exhibits such as the original copy of Rumi's poetry, Mathnawi, his cape and other clothing, a 9th-century gazelle-skin Christian manuscript, a tiny copy of the Koran and a casket containing strands of hair from Prophet Mohammed's beard.

A walk towards one of Konya's street corners takes you towards an impressive stone installation called ‘Union of Two Seas’. It stands on the very spot when, on November 30, 1244, Rumi met the wandering mystic Mohammad Shams al-Din of Tabriz -- the man he had been looking for all his life. Needless to say, discussions with Shams went on to have a great influence on Rumi's thoughts, life and teachings.

Naturally then, the Sems-i-Tebrizi Tomb & Mosque is another must-visit spot for Rumi lovers. Although the tomb inside may not be the real one (for Shams is believed to have been killed by some jealous disciples of Rumi in an unknown place), it nevertheless attracts visitors because of its sacred position in the Mawlawi sect. You are most likely to find many Rumi lovers collecting leaves of the tall oak trees outside to take home as souvenirs or to keep in their copy books.

Konya’s other architectural gems include the 13th century Ince Minare Madrasa with its single minaret that has now been converted into a museum of historic stone and wood art, the Alaeddin Mosque built between the 12th and 13th centuries and the Aziziye Mosque that impresses with its mix of Turkish baroque and traditional Ottoman style of architecture.

A short drive from Konya lies the Tropikal Kelebek Bahçesi, one of the biggest tropical butterfly parks in Europe. A charming, temperature-controlled world has been created for over 45 species of butterflies that have been brought here from different tropical regions of the world. Complete with over 20,000 tropical plants, winding paths and little brooks, it has these winged creatures flitting delightfully around, completely unafraid. Besides taking a dekko into their different stages of life, one can also spot varied species of butterflies including Sparrow that changes colour when viewed from different angles, Monarch that's famous not just for its size but also for migrating over 6,000 miles from Canada to Mexico and back, and even the Praying Mantis that enjoys making a meal of butterflies.

A not to be missed experience lies in one of the oldest villages of the area – Sille. Besides the Aya Eleni Museum or Grand Church that was among the first few structures built by Emperor Constantine and his mother Helena in 327, a walk down this delightfully quaint village is a must. The main street takes you past a gurgling rivulet and age-old caves visible in the mountain face in the distance on one side and several souvenir shops and small eateries that lure you in with their Turkish tea and other beverages on the other.

Author's Bio: Having long been a journalist with the mainstream media and a broadcaster with All India Radio, Purnima Sharma is now enjoying her stint as an independent writer. The Delhi-based journalist is the happiest writing on people, places...and anything that touches the heart. You can read more of her work here