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“Coolcation” is a word we might be hearing much more often in coming years, as much of central and southern Europe dried to a frazzle in the extreme summer heat of the mid-2020s. Heading north rather than south for your August vaca may now be a pretty good bet.
Although Sweden has countless places to visit along its 3000km coastline, the Skanör-Falsterbo peninsula, jutting out into the Baltic 30km south of Malmö, is particularly worth seeking out for its beautiful beaches, bird-watching and general relaxed seaside vibe. Once two towns, Skanör and Falsterbo were brought together almost 300 years ago into one municipality (though locals still don’t seem to have recognized the merger!), and today, the area is often grandly nicknamed the Swedish Riviera.
Join beachgoers for a uniquely Nordic seaside experience using this primer to the Swedish Riviera.
At 55° north latitude, the Skanör-Falsterbo peninusla is best visited at the height of the European summer in July and August. Even in August, the sea may be simply too cold for some, and visitors should be aware that coolcation can mean just that – with leaden Baltic skies and temperatures around 13–15°C (about 55°F) almost guaranteed at some point over the warmer months. The only major event at this time on the peninsula is the Falserbo Horse Show, a dressage and show jumping spectacular held in mid-July. Otherwise, the locals like to keep things low key with just a few minor music festivals in July and August.
Many visitors make a day trip to the Skanör-Falsterbo peninsula from Malmö and even Copenhagen across the water in Denmark. If you have your own car, take the motorway heading south out of Malmö, turning just past the small town of Vellinge. However, be aware that in the summer, parking can be a pain near any beach from midmorning on.
By public transportation, take the Skånetrafiken bus 300 from Malmö’s Hyllie station toward Falsterbo Strandbad. The trip takes around 40 minutes, and the bus stops in several places on the peninsula. (Check the timetable online.)
Once you've arrived, by far the best way to get around if you don’t have your own motorized vehicle is by the unmotorized type: bicycle. The peninsula is pretty flat and boasts a comprehensive network of cycle paths. In fact, relying on pedal power can be much more convenient than a car when hitting beaches and other spots along the coast. For bicycle rentals, turn to Rentbike Skanör or Skanör By Bike.
Bus 300 is also a way of getting around if you time your activities cleverly. The summer-only Gåsatåget tourist train is a completely free route going from one end of the peninsula to the other, but it only runs around four times a day.
Many visit the Skanör-Falsterbo peninsula as a beach jaunt from bigger places, but if you fancy staying the night, there are several worthwhile options.
As across Sweden, camping here is madly popular and pretty much the only way of sleeping over on a budget. There’s everything from patches of grass for tents to full camper-van hookups. Facilities are as good as you can expect in Sweden.
This half-timbered guesthouse in Falsterbo is family run and has quaint, homey rooms as well as a cafe.
The top address on the peninsula is arguably the boutique hotel Gässlingen, with its authentic rural architecture, spa facilities and general coziness. It has an outdoor pool for nippy summer dips and a restaurant serving local dishes.
Summer crowds mean plenty of places to refuel, but outside the peak season, many eateries shut up shop.
Judged by many to be the best place to dine in Skanör, this upmarket inn serves traditional Swedish and local dishes, and is especially good for dinner after a day on the nearby beach. It provides impeccable service but is pricey for most.
A modern beachfront restaurant, bar and cafe located on the dunes in Skanör, Badhytten serves seafood dishes, light lunches and cocktails as you watch the sun go down from the roof terrace.
A rögeriet is a traditional fish smokehouse, and this harbor restaurant in Skanör is the top spot to try local fish, often with a touch of Asian spice. It is good for lunch and dinner.
Light Mediterranean dishes pair well with wine during long summer evenings at this Skanör favorite.
Although not specifically vegetarian, Nomad Bistro Falsterbo is the most veggie-friendly option in these parts, with many meat-free dishes and several pizzas on the menu. The evening-only place is based within the Falsterbo Resort.
If all you want is a belly-filling burger, a pizza or other simple dishes off the beach, this basic, been-here-forever place in Falsterbo hits the spot (especially with a Czech lager in the evenings).
The main reasons to come to the Skanör-Falsterbo peninsula are apparent on any map: the coast is lined with white sand beaches and dunes that gently shelve into the clear waters of the Öresund strait. The main beaches are the Falsterbo Strandbad and the Skanörs Havsbad, which fill up quickly from midmorning, but with a bike or a bit of legwork, you can reach a sandy space you can enjoy in peace. The most family-friendly strand is the Falsterbo Strandbad, which has the most facilities. Walking to the far ends of the shifting sandbars at the northern and southern extremities of the peninsula is another way to escape the crowds.
Bird-watching is big here, with twitchers gathering to watch flocks migrating over the Öresund. In summer, the bird-watching fraternity gathers at the Falsterbo Fågelstation, at the lighthouse in Falsterbo, where free bird-watching tours take place every weekend in the morning, enabling the uninitiated to enjoy the feathery maneuvers in the sky and on the ground. There are several other spots around the peninsula.
In the cool shoulder seasons, the Skanör-Falsterbo peninsula is a fantastic place to get active. The flat terrain makes for great running – it's a nice way to see the coast in its entirety (the whole peninsula is only 10km from north to south), as is simply walking and observing wildlife in the lagoons and on the dunes and sandbars.
There always seems to be a wind whipping across Scandinavia’s beaches, and that bikini or pair of trunks might not be enough against the Baltic breeze, so bring tops and towels. Don’t underestimate the strength of the sun’s rays in the cool breeze either – you can burn badly without even realizing it. And this being Sweden, a good waterproof outer layer might come in just as handy as a beach towel.
Walking or trail shoes are a good idea if you plan on getting around on foot.
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