Sometimes referred to as San Nicolás de Tolentino, but more often known simply as 'La Aldea' (the hamlet), this rather scruffy town has little to excite the senses – it’s the sort of place you only hang around because the arse has fallen off your car. The lure here is the travelling, not the arriving. The road between Agaete and San Nicolás takes you on a magnificent cliffside journey. If you head southwest in the late afternoon, the setting sun provides a soft-light display, marking out each successive ridge in an ever-darker shadowy mantle. There aren't many places to stop, so pull over at every opportunity. Vertigo sufferers might want to tackle the 40km journey, which can take anything up to two hours, in the opposite direction. If you drive from south to north, you get to hug the mountain rather than tackling the countless curves with the steep drop directly beneath you.